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Buick Park Avenue Engine Problems

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Comments

  • wornslickwornslick Posts: 6
    I just purchased a 2000 Park Avenue. The independent dealer I bought the car from said that they were having problems with the car starting and that he put a new fuel pump on the car. Since I have been driving it on the 2nd day the service engine soon light has came on and the car will act like it is not getting enough fuel while being started, if you press the gas pedal while this is happening the car runs fine. Sometimes you can feel the car revving the engine up by itself. Also somtimes the car starts fine. I am taking the car back to him Sat. but was wondering if anyone had an idea what is causing this. The car has 93000 miles on it. There is no missing in the engine and the car drives great. Thanks,

    Wornslick
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,461
    I would clean the MAF sensor, check carbon on the IAC to see if it's gunked up. Both of these can be done while removing the throttle body to clean the gunk that flashes back and gunks up these things with a carbon goo.

    Also I'd check the fuel pressure regulator FPR. There were recalls on some of those and they apparently do fail from the chatter I read on several forums about 3800 motors in H bodies. You can check one way for failure of FPR by pulling off the vacuum line from the FPR and looking for gasoline leaking into it. It sits right along the front of the fuel rail for the injectors and has a fuel line to it and a single vacuum line.

    You can also check for bleedback of pressure into the fuel tank (or through a rusty fuel line) by turning the key to ON and then off afteer 3 seconds when the fuel pump turns off; repeat two times. Then start the car. This pumps up the pressure.
  • wornslickwornslick Posts: 6
    Thank You imidazol97. I will try the starting procedure this morning. The rest of the info I will talk to the dealer about. Would any of this show up in the codes that are now stored in the computer?
  • wornslickwornslick Posts: 6
    Went to my local garage today and had them check the codes. It had 6 P0446A codes. Also 1 B 1001 ansd 1 C 1245. I found out that the first one has to do with the fuel system. Maybe this could be the problem.
  • rtjrrtjr Posts: 4
    I have a 94 park avenue. It started missing when you are driving it. It slows down and when you give it more gas it gets slower. Pulling back on the pedal speeds it up a certain amount, but it still won't hardly go. Sometimes when it has set a while, it does fine with no problems, acceleration is fine. But now it has started missing again. This time the engine light came on. It barely made it home and went dead. I can't get it started now. It will start a few seconds when you pump the accelerator, then it goes dead. If you hold the starter in and keep pumping, it acts like it is backfiring while it trying to start. Could this just be a fuel filter? The pump is in the gas tank and looks difficult to take off.
    Thank you
  • Well here goes. Last friday went to go to work and go wouldn't start, would turn over but not fire off. Listened for fuel pump and heard nothing. Just replaced fuel pump and low an behold it still wont start. got 45psi of fuel pressure and not running. The security light has been on for about 4 weeks now and ran fine. Even switched keys with wife and car ran fine but light stayed on. thinking ignition cylinder and switch bad. key also not worn down visually but no way to really tell. not sure how to check resistance on key either. PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,461
    If the car cranks, the problem is not the VATS system. VATS turns off the starter relay inside the car and turns off the injectors when it doesn't read the right resistance.

    You don't say what year your car is.

    The security light may be something related to an intrusion sensor. The trunk is a common problem. Disconnect the wire to the latch assembly for the theft sensor.

    a first check is the battery cables. If there are two or more cables on the positive, separate them and check inside the plastic by cutting back looking for corrosion. Funny things happen when corrosion builds up inside and affects the connections. Also check connections at front of ESC plate under the coils.
  • Took it to shop today after trying that to no avail. She turns over well but wont start, thinking that there might be a wire in steering column pinched up but not too sure. Ive never been much of an electrician (haha). onna be ready to drop and cough soon too.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,461
    Basics are pretty easy. If it turns over, pull off a spark plug wire and lay it on the grounded metal of the engine, or insert an old plug and lay it on the motor. You'll hear and see the spark. No spark, then you're trouble shooting the electrical system.

    No fuel to the cylinders as evidenced by gas smell in the exhaust pipe after cranking... check injectors for pulse--put in a 194 type light bulb by straightening the wires to check for electrical pulses. Other obvious check is for fuel pump running at all; but it may be giving low fuel pressure.
  • Well now car is fixed, had a bad fuel pump , crank sensor , ignition cpntrol modules and battery. Now I have to get outta hospital to pay it off. Always one thing or another ya know Also had a bad wiring in key clyinder so replaced that too
  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    my 91 park ave won't start. i replaced the ign. module a few weeks ago and it fixed the problem. but the other day, it died on my daughter and wouldn't start again. I know it's not the security because it's bypassed. since i already replaced the module and the coil pack wasn't arcing out, i replaced the cam and crank sensors. nothing. so i put on a used module that i knew worked. the car started and ran for about 10 seconds then died and won't starts again. i wonder if the coil pack is bad and shorted out the module? is that possible? i don't want to put on another module at 100$ a crack if it's gonna get fried. is there a way to test the coil pack and the module?
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Sorry you're having all these issues with your daughter's car. Sounds like you've eliminated the problem with the wiring that sometimes fails in the steering column for the passkey 2 security system by bypassing with a jumper wire? I'm guessing the '91 has the PK2 system that is made up of a resistor in the middle of the key? I know they are PK2 in '94.

    Is the car's engine not turning over at all now? or turning over normally and just not firing anymore? obviously it must have been turning over if it ran for 10 sec then died. Have you tested the fuel rail to see if you have fuel and it is pressurized to the correct pressure?

    I don't know how to test the coil pack & module, but I think they are pretty reliable. I don't have a '91, but guess the coil pack is made up of 3 separate coils that each control 2 plugs like the later models? I doubt all 3 would go bad at once.

    Of all the parts you've replaced, I would say the crank position sensor would be the part most likely to be a bad replacement part. Sometimes they are just flaky out of the box. Or that's what I've read a few times. Whether that means someone put their bad part in the box and returned it to the store, I don't know. Normally electrical parts are no return, but it happens. :mad:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,461
    You've replaced a lot. Have you diagnosed when it doesn't start if it has spark? Put an old plug in a plug wire and lay it on a grounded part of the motor while you crank. Are you getting spark?

    Take a 194 little light and straighten the prongs and plug them into your injector. Does it flash while you crank to show the injectors are being pulsed?

    Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to ON? Listen at the tank while someone turns the key on to check for pump running. But it can still be bad.

    Then try a fuel pressure gauge (I think local box stores loan those out) to see what the fuel pressure is.
  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    thanks for the respnses guys... i don't have spark, ( i use the spark plug to metal test) and my fuel pump is working...at least well enough to start and run, though i haven't tested the pressure yet. I do have a new fuel filter though because the first time it wouldn't start, i replaced it. That's my go to "turns over but won't start" move because it's often been the problem and if it isn't...it most likely needed replaced anyways!! lol Man i hope i didn't get a bad crank sensor, cause it's kind of a pain to change out. I'm almost wondering if i have some bad wires going to my module, i can't figure out why the brand new one ran for a couple weeks and the used one went out after just seconds. oh, for bypassing that stupid alarm, i put an ohlms tester to the key, then went to the local car audio dealer, got a one piece resister and just wired it directly in...worked pretty slick!!
  • Hello well here it is I have a 97 pa ultra with 173000 miles and i am having a noise under the hood, sounds like a bearing, or pulley going i had a pulley go out on the supercharger belt system and blew the belt and everything with it that was not fun changing myself. But it doesn't sound like the same thing, sound goes away when you acc. but im sure the engine noise covers it up, when idling the noise is almost deafening in the cab of the car (very loud) constant noise gets noise seems to fluctuate (gets louder then softer) anyway to find out witch one it is or just wait till it goes out (rather not wait that long) but have been driving for about 10000 miles and has not broke anything yet.

    2nd issue is when the noise started the oil pressure started fluctuating goes up when you acc and drops when idling, the rpms do not fluctuate when idling, but also when driving about 1/2 hour or so when i hit the brakes now the oil light dings and comes on, then goes off, I keep a constant eye on my oil level but it doesn't go any where. No leaks or anything, Anybody help please
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    edited March 2010
    I don't know how long you've had the car, and if the supercharger has ever been rebuilt, but sometimes they have trouble with a couple components near the 'snout'. I think the most common problem is the polymer coupling at the front of the 'snout' of the SC seems to wear out. It is a fairly simple repair for the DIY'r, but may be expensive if a dealer wanted to replace your entire SC.

    Sometimes the bearings go out and that is a little more difficult to replace.

    Search eBay for Eaton supercharger coupler kit.

    Since the problem happens at idle, you should be able to use a mechanics stethoscope (about $15) to listen to different areas of the engine compartment, while the engine is running, to try to isolate the sound. If you don't have access to a stethoscope, you can use a short piece of hose instead. Be very careful with the engine running. No loose clothes, coats, jewelry, and watch your hands and hair.

    Could be several things, bearings in power steering, bearings in alternator, bearings in A/C. Fan noise due to broken blades, shroud, etc. Maybe something stuck up in the fan area. Water pump failing... Leaking any coolant?

    How low does the oil pressure get when it's fluctuating? It is normal to be lower at idle, and higher at higher RPMs.

    While the engine is off, can you depress the idler tensioner enough to remove the serpantine belt, and then spin the different pulleys by hand to see if they make any noise?

    I'm sure someone else will have more ideas, but that's a few of mine. :)
  • I have had the car since 2006 and have not really had any issues besides blowing the belt on SC, im not a big fan of it anyways. Is there an easy way to remove the SC belt so that i would be able to see if this is what is giving me a hard time? If it is this does it hurt the motor without the supercharger running? How hard is it to remove the hole thing?

    Im not leaking any coolant or anyother fluids (whew!) Ive checked just about everywhere that i can see and feel.

    The oil pressure on the digital guage on the car drops down to about 20 at idle and at higher rpms it runs about 40 stays in the normal, the pressure used to fluctuate on my old Bronco too like i said before maybe im just noticing it now that something might be wrong.

    I havent removed the serpentine belt either cause it looks like a job with the SC belt and pulleys in the way, but im sure that me and dad could tackle this in the spring.
    Im not looking to put a ton of money into this car, its my commuter anyways but i would like to hear the radio at the stop lights LOL, My last Park Ave was a 89' and we had 305,000 miles on it and the only thing we put into it was an alternator great car
    I really appreciate the reply and the help.
    Thank you
  • sgroce2sgroce2 Posts: 1
    Hello

    I have an 89 Buick Park Ave Electra that is not starting. (The battery is fine) The car will begin to turn over, but doesn't fire. I replaced the solenoid within the last year due to non-start problems and it's been great until now!

    Tested the #1 spark plug wire to metal and it does not get a spark.

    Other info- In the last few months the engine light would come on while the car idled. Once the car was in drive, the light would go off. Also, me dash is all electric and the temperature control lights and display would flash very insanely. The numbers on my temp display would jump (like a fried alarm clock). Not sure if it's related...

    Any help is appreciated : )
  • I have a 94 PA that i have been working on now for 4 days. I was getting clicking sounds from the engine and engine would not start consistently, diagnosed as busted harmonic balancer..Fixed it and clicking went away. In the process of finding that problem i replaced the fuel pump(would prime but not run),fuel filter, Alternator(Undercharging), Fuel Pressure regulator(was slowly losing pressure when a gauge was applied and air side smelled of fuel),Throttle position sensor(no readings with a multimeter for resistance) and i also replaced the crankshaft position sensor(hoping it was the issue why it wouldnt go into overdrive). After replacing the fuel pump and filter it still ran until the balancer seized but would not go into overdrive. It will run when i take the intake off and spray fuel into it but the vehicle still would not respond if the throttle was applied. The engine will crank and turn over but is acting like its not getting fuel..Each item replaced is working but i still cant get the vehicle started again after the initial balancer seize..I have no idea where to look or what to do next!
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