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Buick Park Avenue Engine Problems

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Comments

  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    my 91 park ave won't start. i replaced the ign. module a few weeks ago and it fixed the problem. but the other day, it died on my daughter and wouldn't start again. I know it's not the security because it's bypassed. since i already replaced the module and the coil pack wasn't arcing out, i replaced the cam and crank sensors. nothing. so i put on a used module that i knew worked. the car started and ran for about 10 seconds then died and won't starts again. i wonder if the coil pack is bad and shorted out the module? is that possible? i don't want to put on another module at 100$ a crack if it's gonna get fried. is there a way to test the coil pack and the module?
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Sorry you're having all these issues with your daughter's car. Sounds like you've eliminated the problem with the wiring that sometimes fails in the steering column for the passkey 2 security system by bypassing with a jumper wire? I'm guessing the '91 has the PK2 system that is made up of a resistor in the middle of the key? I know they are PK2 in '94.

    Is the car's engine not turning over at all now? or turning over normally and just not firing anymore? obviously it must have been turning over if it ran for 10 sec then died. Have you tested the fuel rail to see if you have fuel and it is pressurized to the correct pressure?

    I don't know how to test the coil pack & module, but I think they are pretty reliable. I don't have a '91, but guess the coil pack is made up of 3 separate coils that each control 2 plugs like the later models? I doubt all 3 would go bad at once.

    Of all the parts you've replaced, I would say the crank position sensor would be the part most likely to be a bad replacement part. Sometimes they are just flaky out of the box. Or that's what I've read a few times. Whether that means someone put their bad part in the box and returned it to the store, I don't know. Normally electrical parts are no return, but it happens. :mad:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,054
    You've replaced a lot. Have you diagnosed when it doesn't start if it has spark? Put an old plug in a plug wire and lay it on a grounded part of the motor while you crank. Are you getting spark?

    Take a 194 little light and straighten the prongs and plug them into your injector. Does it flash while you crank to show the injectors are being pulsed?

    Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to ON? Listen at the tank while someone turns the key on to check for pump running. But it can still be bad.

    Then try a fuel pressure gauge (I think local box stores loan those out) to see what the fuel pressure is.
  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    thanks for the respnses guys... i don't have spark, ( i use the spark plug to metal test) and my fuel pump is working...at least well enough to start and run, though i haven't tested the pressure yet. I do have a new fuel filter though because the first time it wouldn't start, i replaced it. That's my go to "turns over but won't start" move because it's often been the problem and if it isn't...it most likely needed replaced anyways!! lol Man i hope i didn't get a bad crank sensor, cause it's kind of a pain to change out. I'm almost wondering if i have some bad wires going to my module, i can't figure out why the brand new one ran for a couple weeks and the used one went out after just seconds. oh, for bypassing that stupid alarm, i put an ohlms tester to the key, then went to the local car audio dealer, got a one piece resister and just wired it directly in...worked pretty slick!!
  • Hello well here it is I have a 97 pa ultra with 173000 miles and i am having a noise under the hood, sounds like a bearing, or pulley going i had a pulley go out on the supercharger belt system and blew the belt and everything with it that was not fun changing myself. But it doesn't sound like the same thing, sound goes away when you acc. but im sure the engine noise covers it up, when idling the noise is almost deafening in the cab of the car (very loud) constant noise gets noise seems to fluctuate (gets louder then softer) anyway to find out witch one it is or just wait till it goes out (rather not wait that long) but have been driving for about 10000 miles and has not broke anything yet.

    2nd issue is when the noise started the oil pressure started fluctuating goes up when you acc and drops when idling, the rpms do not fluctuate when idling, but also when driving about 1/2 hour or so when i hit the brakes now the oil light dings and comes on, then goes off, I keep a constant eye on my oil level but it doesn't go any where. No leaks or anything, Anybody help please
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    edited March 2010
    I don't know how long you've had the car, and if the supercharger has ever been rebuilt, but sometimes they have trouble with a couple components near the 'snout'. I think the most common problem is the polymer coupling at the front of the 'snout' of the SC seems to wear out. It is a fairly simple repair for the DIY'r, but may be expensive if a dealer wanted to replace your entire SC.

    Sometimes the bearings go out and that is a little more difficult to replace.

    Search eBay for Eaton supercharger coupler kit.

    Since the problem happens at idle, you should be able to use a mechanics stethoscope (about $15) to listen to different areas of the engine compartment, while the engine is running, to try to isolate the sound. If you don't have access to a stethoscope, you can use a short piece of hose instead. Be very careful with the engine running. No loose clothes, coats, jewelry, and watch your hands and hair.

    Could be several things, bearings in power steering, bearings in alternator, bearings in A/C. Fan noise due to broken blades, shroud, etc. Maybe something stuck up in the fan area. Water pump failing... Leaking any coolant?

    How low does the oil pressure get when it's fluctuating? It is normal to be lower at idle, and higher at higher RPMs.

    While the engine is off, can you depress the idler tensioner enough to remove the serpantine belt, and then spin the different pulleys by hand to see if they make any noise?

    I'm sure someone else will have more ideas, but that's a few of mine. :)
  • I have had the car since 2006 and have not really had any issues besides blowing the belt on SC, im not a big fan of it anyways. Is there an easy way to remove the SC belt so that i would be able to see if this is what is giving me a hard time? If it is this does it hurt the motor without the supercharger running? How hard is it to remove the hole thing?

    Im not leaking any coolant or anyother fluids (whew!) Ive checked just about everywhere that i can see and feel.

    The oil pressure on the digital guage on the car drops down to about 20 at idle and at higher rpms it runs about 40 stays in the normal, the pressure used to fluctuate on my old Bronco too like i said before maybe im just noticing it now that something might be wrong.

    I havent removed the serpentine belt either cause it looks like a job with the SC belt and pulleys in the way, but im sure that me and dad could tackle this in the spring.
    Im not looking to put a ton of money into this car, its my commuter anyways but i would like to hear the radio at the stop lights LOL, My last Park Ave was a 89' and we had 305,000 miles on it and the only thing we put into it was an alternator great car
    I really appreciate the reply and the help.
    Thank you
  • sgroce2sgroce2 Posts: 1
    Hello

    I have an 89 Buick Park Ave Electra that is not starting. (The battery is fine) The car will begin to turn over, but doesn't fire. I replaced the solenoid within the last year due to non-start problems and it's been great until now!

    Tested the #1 spark plug wire to metal and it does not get a spark.

    Other info- In the last few months the engine light would come on while the car idled. Once the car was in drive, the light would go off. Also, me dash is all electric and the temperature control lights and display would flash very insanely. The numbers on my temp display would jump (like a fried alarm clock). Not sure if it's related...

    Any help is appreciated : )
  • I have a 94 PA that i have been working on now for 4 days. I was getting clicking sounds from the engine and engine would not start consistently, diagnosed as busted harmonic balancer..Fixed it and clicking went away. In the process of finding that problem i replaced the fuel pump(would prime but not run),fuel filter, Alternator(Undercharging), Fuel Pressure regulator(was slowly losing pressure when a gauge was applied and air side smelled of fuel),Throttle position sensor(no readings with a multimeter for resistance) and i also replaced the crankshaft position sensor(hoping it was the issue why it wouldnt go into overdrive). After replacing the fuel pump and filter it still ran until the balancer seized but would not go into overdrive. It will run when i take the intake off and spray fuel into it but the vehicle still would not respond if the throttle was applied. The engine will crank and turn over but is acting like its not getting fuel..Each item replaced is working but i still cant get the vehicle started again after the initial balancer seize..I have no idea where to look or what to do next!
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