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Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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Comments

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    I posted a pic of my car in the photos discussion... unfortunately the fact I cleaned it is lost on the poor image quality and composition. Oh well, I was there to compete, not shoot pics. ;-)

    The results are here. Still getting comfortable with the car, I'm nowhere near good enough to just jump in and click off great runs. Surprisingly I was the fastest Subaru of the weekend, Jeff should have clobbered me and Pat was on street tires.

    'night all,
    -Colin
  • rplumrplum Posts: 48
    Colin,

    That's for my PIAA XT80 pencil beams. They're not wired too cleanly right now (visually I mean) I should probably get around to cleaning it up. It's not a show car though (quite the opposite) so I'm not too concerned. The exterior took quite a beating the first few years I had the car.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Holy short shifter Batman! I installed the Kartboy today and it is significantly shorter than the stock Forester lever. Eyeballing the difference, I'd say the shift knob is about 1.5" lower than stock. If you have the premium stereo on the Forester (98-00), the old shifter would put my hand about level with the cassette deck. Now my hand is down by the CD player!

    Went for a test drive and the shifts go firmly into gear with little play. It reminded me of a stiffer Miata shifter. The short length is makes the 1->2 shift feel a lot more secure -- snick, snick. I still felt a little strange going into 5th or reverse as I have to extend my arm out a little more than I am used to.

    My overall impression is favorable. If the world was perfect, I'd actually lengthen the lever just a tad for us Forester owners.

    Pics to follow soon.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sounds very familiar! ;-)

    Mine's at least an inch shorter, too. If you want it a little longer, there is a lot of threading on the knob, so you probably could use a spacer of some sort, maybe a short bolt in there.

    Did it also change the leverage? i.e. is the length below the fulcrum (*) greater than before?

    -juice

    * Mike Smith would love that word!
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    I was wondering how much shorter your shifter was compared to the stock Forester one. I don't recall seeing a photo of the finished product in your Photopoint album.

    I drove to work today and the throws are much shorter and the shifts require a little more pressure. The overall feel is a much more firm and "secure". My biggest beef with the stock Forester shifter is that it seemed to flex a bit.

    Could you describe a little more what you were thinking about when installing a spacer? Would that be something that goes inside the shift knob vs. on the end of the lever?

    I'll have pics up soon to show you the drastic differences in length.

    Ken
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I've posted some photos from my Kartboy Shifter installation on my Photopoint account:


    http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1013602&a=12802287


    I didn't document a step-by-step since juice and others have already done a great job in capturing the instructions.


    Notice the big difference in height. It's taking some getting used to the firm and short throws.


    juice -- Did you do anything to rememdy the "sagging" shifter boot? My shifter looks like Tom Hanks after he becomes a kid again in "Big".


    Ken

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Actually, Ken, my photos show the new and old shift lever side by side. I don't have the URL handy 'cause I'm not at my desk.

    Hey - I have to find something to do while Notes replicates this guy's mail! ;-)

    HOLY COW! Just saw the photos. No way, no how, mine's not nearly that short. My difference is about only half of that, hence the boot is not an issue.

    It does look like you have a bit more leverage, but I'd say mine actually is longer below the fulcrum.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    Must have missed the side-by-sides.

    Yeah, the difference is dramatic. I just e-mailed Kartboy to see if there's anything that can be done to extend the length.

    I'm going to try it out for a bit. If it's a big issue, I think even the stock 2.5 RS shifter would be an improvement. I'm sure someone would be willing to swap.

    Ken
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    wow that's short!!!

    Ross
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,


    Here's a photo comparing the Kartboy, stock 2.5 RS and STi shifters:


    http://www.azscooby.com/mods/AZScooby/Peaty/kartboy-sti.php


    The fulcrum length looks similar between the STi and Kartboy. The length above that is significantly different.


    Ken

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    wow, that is pretty short. Ken, I'd offer to trade but then we'll both be out a car at least a day even if we overnighted them. ;-)

    -Colin
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Colin,
    Haven't made the decision if I like it or not yet but I'll keep you in mind if I decide I don't want it. I still have my stock Forester shifter so I could put that back in and send out the Kartboy.
    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Mine is here:

    http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1400062&a=12183873&p=44301948&Sequence=0&res=high

    So mine and the STi are the same, but the RS and Forester stock are not.

    In length, it looks like in order, longest to shortest:

    Forester OE

    RS OE and STi (aka SPT) are about the same

    kartboy is shortest

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,


    Oh yeah, that photo. I thought you meant a side-by-side post installation comparison.


    Looks like the Impreza L shifter is the same as the Foresters:


    http://www.azscooby.com/mods/AZScooby/Peaty/shiftlever.php


    I guess if I went to a 2.5 RS shifter I would probably get a shorter throw. The local dealer sells just the shift lever for $65.


    I'm still conteplating.


    Colin -- would ya be interested in buying a used Kartboy lever? :)


    Ken

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    How much was it? We could swap and I'll pay the difference, or whatever.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Gotta love a parts swap!

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Colin,

    I just e-mailed an offer to you at your bigfoot address. Let me know what you think.

    Ken
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    would enjoy seeing a group of grown men discussing whose is shorter for 2 straight days. It is a guaranteed ROFLMAO to go back and read this thread from a certain perspective ;-) Sorry. Long day at work....
  • ramonramon Posts: 825
    my stepdad just broke 2 thread bolts from the miata's wheel hub. how much does it cost to fix it? anyone know? juice? colin?
  • rplumrplum Posts: 48
    at your local tire mart sort of place i seem to remember wheel stud replacements (parts and labor) going for $30-$40/stud.

    at least that's what I recall it costing on my fiance's Pontiac Sure-Fire.....

    RP
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Ryan is correct. Call the local dealer too.

    In the future, use anti-seize on the studs and make sure to set the torque properly with a torque wrench. (mazda alloys take like 70-75lb/ft)

    -Colin
  • theobtheob Posts: 148
    I'm wondering if Subaru engineers have thought through their recommendation on towing, 2000# with brakes. Since most of the trailers in the weight range with brakes would have electric brakes, I would think they have made provisions, or at least prototyped how that would be done in an OB. I wonder if they have a recommended electric brake controller, recommended mounting location, wires in the vehicle harness or recommended routing for separate wires for the brake control. Didn't we have a Sube engineer visiting here occasionally? Patti, do you have any info?

    Note: Electric brakes require separate wiring from what is available in the 4-pin trailer lighting plug. The amperage can exceed what most lighting systems are capable of sourcing. In addition there usually must be a means of manual brake application, separate from the brake pedal.
    Thanks in advance,
    Theo
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,662
    Excellent questions regarding trailer brakes...

    Bob
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    ...come in a few different forms, don't they? When I had my ski boat, it had surge brakes. It was a dual axel trailer, with the braking wheels on one axel. The brakes operated by the pressure applied at the ball hitch. As you slowed down, the trailer pressed up against the ball, which caused the brakes to automatically apply. The harder you stopped, the harder the brakes would apply. I believe the trailer was about 6000# with the boat (22' Ski Centurion).

    I know the brakes worked. With an empty trailer, you could lock up the brake wheels with a quick apply of the brakes.

    A manually controlled electric brake is probably way safer (and more reliable), but the surge brakes worked for my trailer.

    -Brian
  • gurumikegurumike Posts: 442
    Thought this plug would be okay as someone will gain from it! I'm selling my 2.5 RS (on Autotrader.com) and I put the stock air-box back on. The JC Sports intake is on Bay. Let me know if any of you have any questions about these intakes. On Autotrader.com use the 93105 zip code and a 3 mile search. Thanks!
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,662
    Yes there are several types. I've looked into this a bit, and the last trailer dealer I spoke to recommended electric brakes. You can adjust the amount of braking needed (loaded vs unloaded trailer) with electric brakes. You have a switch mounted inside the vehicle, usually under the dash, to adjust the braking.

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I like the surge brakes, less electrical un-certainty IMHO.

    -mike
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,662
    is that you don't have any control over the amount of braking that is needed, which could mean you might lock the trailer brakes more easily, therefore greatly increasing your risk of losing control of the trailer.

    If you're pulling a trailer where the trailer weight is always about the same, say with a boat trailer, they may be okay. If, however, you're pulling a utility trailer, where the weight of the trailer (with payload) may vary considerably each time you use it, surges brakes may not be a good idea.

    I asked the trailer dealer about surge brakes, and he wasn't very fond of them. He strongly recommended electric brakes.

    Bob
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I think if you're just into 'casual' trailer-ing, like running to Menards for lumber or hauling junk to the dump, then a surge brake trailer would be fine (and probably cheaper). If I had to choose between a trailer with no brakes or one with surge brakes, I'd take the surge.

    If you're going on a trip (vacation, etc.) with a trailer, then I'd go with the electric brakes.

    -Brian
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I was pullng a camper for years and the electric brakes worked fine. They also had controls in the cab and you can adjust them on the fly according to road/load conditions. The brakes on the trailer need yearly maintenance to assure the wires are in good shape and the magnets are clean.
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