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Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Glad you're OK, and sorry to hear about the end of that Scooby's life.

    Pop in once in a while to let us know how you're doing. You really gonna use an old muscle car as a daily driver?

    -juice
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    I should have clarified a bit, too. I own a 1994 Legacy Turbo (see http://www.thepearsonhome.com/subaru_legacy.htm). But, I have had experiences with two Subaru dealers in Houston. By far, and in tandem with the majority of the Texas iClub members, I would recommend West Houston Subaru. Bruce is the service guy, but I can't comment on the salesmen. Good luck!


    Jim

  • strider98strider98 Posts: 89
    That's probably the one I'll go to as I live off Highway 6 north of I-10. It's only about 5-6 miles from me.
  • hgutsteinhgutstein Posts: 65
    I have not dealt with them but they are getting lots of good press on I-club. I have done all my dealings at WHS, but I would call to all 4 dealers (include McRee in League City) to see where you get the best price
  • strider98strider98 Posts: 89
    Didn't know they had one in League City. Is it a smaller one or what? Also, does anyone know which one is the most mod-friendly. Thanks in advance for all the help...
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    McRee in League City was formerly known as Gay Subaru/Pontiac/GMC. Mod-friendly, WHS has sold some fairly decked out WRX's, mainly cosmetic stuff, but I have also seen them working on lowered WRX's. Beyond that level of mechanical alteration (the lowering) I can't comment. Anybody (any dealer) is going to void the warranty at some point. It all comes down to how far you're going to go with the mods.

    Jim
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Hey I need your opinions. I'm considering getting one of these Kartboy Knuckleball Shiftknobs.


    What do you think? Which color, BTW?


    Ken

  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I'd say go with the black with blue shift knob.

    Why? Blue for World Rally Blue, and Black to match the stock shift knob. :-)

    FWIW,

    -Brian
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Brian,

    Thanks for the input. Actually, that's the combination I was thinking of getting.

    Ken
  • Cobb Tuning has come out with a new Double Adjustable Shifter...

    http://cobbtuning.com/legacy/drivetrain1.html#shifter


    bit

  • Cobb Tuning has come out with a new Double Adjustable Shifter...

    http://cobbtuning.com/legacy/drivetrain1.html#shifter


    bit

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    bit-- good find, really interesting.

    I suppose there's some folks on the iClub who have already tried them...

    -Colin
  • barresa62barresa62 Posts: 1,379
    Whiteline adj 20mm-24mm. I have it set at 22mm. I have a fixed Whiteline 22mm front swaybar as well.

    image
    Stephen :-)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Looks good. That thing is beefy!

    -juice
  • barresa62barresa62 Posts: 1,379
    I compared it to the WRX sedan's 20mm bar I took off and the Whiteline was noticeably beefier!

    Stephen
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    bit - Did you try Ace Kensington? I have a number for another dealer (not with me now though) that I'll post tomorrow.

    Stephen - What was the shipping cost on the rear cup holder? If it's crazy, I could have a friend pick one up for me when he visits home.

    -Dennis
  • barresa62barresa62 Posts: 1,379
    I'll have to look at the invoice when I get home. :-)

    Stephen
  • I recall lots of discussion way back when about driving lights like those from PIAA. I want more illumination when we get caught driving at night on small 2 lane roads on our roadtrip. Is there a good option for this purpose out there and what are the trade-offs... like draw on the alternator?

    bit
  • rplumrplum Posts: 48
    Keep that swaybar nice and clean! Not sure where you live, but the Whiteline sway bar that I had on my 98 2.5RS looked like poop (rust) after a year or so (and 1 Michigan winter). If I were to get another I'd paint it or powdercoat is before installation.

    Other than that it worked great.

    Ryan
  • barresa62barresa62 Posts: 1,379
    Thanks for the heads-up. I'm so anal w/my WRX that I'll surely be crawling underneath everytime I wash or detail it, LOL! :-)

    Stephen
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just grease it up after you wash it, else it'll squeek like crazy.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    ....but I think this would look pretty kewl on my silver BD:


    http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=227158

  • Bit:

    Not many trade offs, the lights don't draw any more amps from the alternators than any other accessory. depending on the size and mounting location of the lights there might be a reduction of airflow to the radiator, but definitely not enough to cause problems.

    I have PIAA 520's mounted on top of the front bumper on my 98 Forester, man, those are bright!! I use them sparingly. As for manufactures, I would go with a quality one, such as PIAA, PILOT, HELLA, etc. But don't buy driving lights from a regular auto parts store (pepboys, autozone, etc) they generatly low end models that will not deliver the performance that you would expect. Go to an aftermaket specialist, you will paymore, but then you get what you pay for.

    I do know for certain that in terms of ease of installation, PIAA can't be beat, very simple, took me no more than half an hour to do it. I have installed Hellas and they are a pain to do, wires everywhere (some of them not long enough). The only tricky part is splicing into the headlight/parkinglight wires for power, if you choose to go this route, not much room or factory wire length to work with.

    I would recommend that you choose a light with a "driving" beam pattern as opposed to a "pencil" beam pattern. The former illuminates at a wider angle. The latter will illuminate further, but with a much narrower spread, as the name suggest, like a pencil, straight and narrow.

    If you are doing the install yourself, please take the pain staking time to aim the lights properly, it will give you better performance from the lights and keep on comming traffic from high beaming you (just a thought).

    Much luck.

    Mike
  • jmac94jmac94 Posts: 7
    I'm interested in installing the electrochromic mirror in my car. My question is, has anyone installed one of these mirrors themselves, and if so, how difficult was it? I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5RS and am wondering if the car is pre-wired for the mirror (I'm pretty sure it was an option on the 2002 2.5RS). I don't want to pay the service dept. $75 to attach the mirror and plug it in. Thanks.

    Joe
  • eps105eps105 Posts: 216
    Joe,

    If Subaru offers the Electrochromatic Mirror with Compass as a optional accessory for the '02 Impreza, then it is likely prewired, as the '01-'02 Forester supposedly was. (My guess is that the harness is tucked into the headliner, just behind the mirror.)

    Even if it is not prewired, if you are semi-handy and it actually comes with instructions, you should be able to put it in yourself in 30-60 minutes or so.

    I should know - I bought the identical aftermarket mirror from Donnely Electronics that has the compass AND an outside temperature display for my old '99 Forester. This is the mirror that was advertised in Motor Trend just about every month. Subaru uses Donnely as the OEM and had them design one without the thermometer.

    The main wire I was able to easily tuck into the headliner without removing it (thank goodness!). I then removed the A-piller cover (it just pulls off with a strong tug on the Forester) and fed the wire down behind the dashboard (near the left footrest).

    I then used the pinout diagram in my owners manual to tap into the 12V igition-on power line for the security system, but the Subaru OEM one you're buying likely has specific instruction where to attach the wire.

    The bulk of the work was running the thermocouple through the firewall to the front of the car, but since the Subaru OEM doesn't have that, you don't even have to deal with it.

    I LOVE this mirror. It is definitely worth the money.

    Elliot
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    Hey everybody. Was wondering if somebody had experience putting cold air in OB or Legacy GT 96-99. I have 98 Legacy GT wagon and I've been thinking about putting cold air intake in.
    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just make sure it is getting cold air. A lot of the systems out there will put a cone filter in the engine compartment, this sucks in HOT air and basically negates (IMHO) any gains of a free-er flowing intake.

    -mike
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    I know thee well..... ;'))

    you have a couple of hurdles:

    1) the Phase I DOHC EJ25 has a Mass Air Flow sensor. More accurate and therefore a better performance choice, it is still more fragile than later MAP equipped systems. Isolation from vibration and good filtering are critical to this part's long-term survival.

    2) Phase I engines also need that torque chamber (the big plastic box on the intake plenum). this is a reservoir of pre-filtered air that avoids starvarion problems under wide open throttle inputs. I think Colin will back me up on this..... And most cone filter type CAI systems ditch this part.

    3) cold air from where exactly? Us GT guys don't have the Impreza RS boy-racer hood vents that can be made functional to help the traditional cone filters get to cold air. And the scoop is too far aft.

    I've just taken out the snorkus from the right fender well and let the airbox draw from the fender-well. You could also go with a drop in filter like K&N or AMsoil, but I remain skeptical about their usefulness. Others here are true believers and may come up with the data to convince you otherwise. but with that MAF in there, I dunno.

    hope that helps, from a BD GT owner that loved the sound of his CAI but didn't like getting hung out to dry every time he stomped on it.... :')
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    the MAF sensor used on the 96-99 (99 US models) DOHC 2.5L was very robust. only the Japanese-made '99 models had a fragile MAF sensor, the SOHC 2.5L we got and all the turbo 2.0L models for Europe and Asia had it too.

    a big airbox will help any engine during throttle transitions. it's actually the removal of the reversion tubes that hurt the MAF-equipped models, rebounding air and pressure causes a sensor misread. air that's already been metered moves over the sensor again...

    -Colin
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    thanks for the clarification. Are the reversion tubes the snorkus, the ridges just behind the MAF and the way to the torque box, or the appendix aft of the MAF?
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