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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Noises and Sounds

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Comments

  • jamzusajamzusa Posts: 7
    About half a year ago or more I accidently downshifted, I had borrowed a stick shift pickup and was in the habit of shifting so..., into reverse and my Jeep slammed into reverse jarring the engine extremely. After that a clanking noise started here and there in the lower part of the engine. It wasn't constant but now and then it would clang like something hitting something there. Someone said it might be the flywheel. I don't know what it is but just starting today it's like it's coming loose, whatever it is, and it's clanging around at low rpm's. I'm afraid it'll come off, whatever it is, then I'll have a HUGE problem. Anyone know what damage I did and what it is that's loose? I'm sure it's simple but I need to know so I can get it fixed. I don't want a garage to rip me off. I very much appreciate this as I need to get it done asap! I'm afraid to drive it much now. Thank you for your help!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I would check the engine mounts but better to hear from the experts here. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Just how fast were you going when you shifted into reverse? Very slow, I hope! That would have caused the least amount of damage. It could be a lot of things, including the flywheel. You really should have had that checked out right after you did it. The longer something is allowed to go on, the worse the damage gets, which could mean one thing coming apart and doing severe damage to surrounding or attached parts. I'm sorry if this is scaring you a little, but without really looking at it, it's hard to say what it could be. What year and model Jeep is it? Is it 2 or 4-wheel drive and which motor do you have? Let us know and maybe someone here can help possibly pinpoint the problem.
  • jamzusajamzusa Posts: 7
    Thanks for the input. It's a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Larado, straight 6, 4-wheel drive. It wasn't going too fast, around 35 or so. Stupid move, I know. Either way, I understand what you're saying. I didn't have it checked as it didn't do anything other than make a noise every now and then but you are right. It will get worse and worse and could cause damage to other things which is what it might be doing now clanging around. I'm guessing it might be a loose flywheel, the bolts sheared off or something. The mechanic is going to look at it on Tuesday. it drives fine other than that noise at idle and gets worse at a low idle, obviously something's loose and doesn't wobble when the speed increases because of centrifigal force. I appreciate your input very much!
  • tknapptknapp Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand cherokee Limited. V8 4.7L. For about 5 months now it has been making this annoying humming sound from the back. You cant hear it from the outside unless you put your head right by the back right wheel area. I took it to a mechanic and he said it could be the fuel pump. So I had the fuel pump replaced. Didn't fix the noise. It is still the same. It sounds like it could have definatly been the pump but since replacing it didnt work I am at a loss. If you open the back, you can hear it the worst. It hums when im in park and very lightly when going 10-30mph and almost unhearable at higher speeds.
    the mechanic says some cars just have noisy fuel pumps. well he replaced it with a brand new one, so why is it still noisy?
    Do you have any suggestions to as what it might be?
    Thank You.
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    need a little help. i have a 2004 jgc with 38,000 miles with a annoying noise coming from the rear.when i go over bumps around 30 mhr or faster sounds like something is loose. i have checked everything.sway bar links. shocks. rear gate. spare tire. I'm about to bring it to the shop. next question I'm getting about 16 miles a gallon is that about right 4.0L. the other question should i use synthetic oil in the motor to prolong its life or is it a waste of money
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    hey how are you i also have a 2004 with the same noise. did you find out what the problem is? thank you ED
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    prob the shocks some thing came loose inside would change shocks before anything else
    oil is good have 2000 jgc and has 176000 miles on it and don't use any oil has good oil press and think it is good (i use mobil 1 extended life and change at 7500 miles
  • its a 99 grand cherokee. i have this rattling noise in the rear end, every time i hit a bump or even a crack in the road it acts up. at first i thought it might be the shocks, so i replaced them, then i thought it was the rear sway bar link, i just replaced them today and the noise is still there, its getting very annoying, any tips...
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    there is a ball joint on top of thr rear axel that could be loose
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    ya i notice that looker ok. i think i might take a look at the shocks first. what are everyone views on synthetic vs reg oil
  • jamzusajamzusa Posts: 7
    I see you don't have any experience or knowledge of oil.... Most people know synthetic oil is better. I don't know, off hand, the technical in's and out's but it is and if you want to do one better put Dura Lube in. It coats the engine and works that well that one time I put a remanufactured engine in a car and thought I'd put that stuff in right off so it'd last forever.... well, it never broke in as there was NO wear whatsoever so, case in point. Get synthetic oil and put Dura Lube in... You're all set! I promise.
  • This person is referring to the balljoint on the triangulated upper rear link at the axle. You can't just look at it and see whether or not it's bad! I guarantee you that is your problem. These things wear out over time. This is very common on WJ's after a few years.
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    thanks for the response! can i change that upper triangular ball joint my self? what i mean do i need any special tools
  • Most people only KNOW it's better because it SOUNDS better and COSTS more. The truth is that it is better, but it may not necessarily be better for YOU! For example, you decide to start using fully synthetic oil in your motor and you notice it starts easier, it runs cooler, and you could possibly even get one more mile per gallon out of a tank of gas. Then you start to notice that oil spot in your driveway. Your engine may have had a tiny oil leak before that took days to even drip to the ground. You knew about it, but it was very minor. Now it leaks worse than before, and possibly even in other places that didn't leak before! What makes it so good for your engines internals can also seep through tiny gaps in seals and gaskets that your old oil couldn't "fit" through. This difference between your old oil and synthetics is on the molecular level, where it really counts. Fully synthetic oils have a very uniform molecular structure that allow them to flow easily with very little resistance. Conventional oils contain molecules of different sizes and shapes which can't flow as freely. It's like comparing sand to chert. Conventional oils aren't "bad" for your motor, they just break down faster and have to be replaced in order to continue providing protection for your motor. I hope this somehow makes sense to you.
  • Yes, you should be able to handle it. The only special tool you will need, other than a floor jack, is a "picklefork" type balljoint separator to separate the upper link from the balljoint stud located on top of the differential housing.
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    god i love this web site thank you for all the info! i wanted and suv and i hope my 04 jgc brings me alot of luck. one more question guys any way to check that ball joint?
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    sorry what i mean is is there a way to tell if its bad
  • ed04ed04 Posts: 9
    its a 2004 do you think the rear ball joint is bad its only has 38000
  • Check the balljoint boot for damage such as tears or cracks and check for looseness or rough movement. You can do this by either getting someone to push on the rear of the truck from side to side while you watch the joint (of course, the tranny will be in park and the emergency brake will be set, right?!) or put your floor jack under the diff, raise the rear off the ground and move the axle around to see if you can tell (and, of course, you will not be under the truck unless the chassis is supported by jackstands, right?!). Sometimes you might not be able to tell, but if you've already replaced the shocks, that balljoint will be your problem. If you haven't replaced the shocks, remove them and then drive over some bumps and see if you still hear the rattle (be careful if you do this, and don't go far because driving without the shocks is dangerous and it will handle like a wet noodle). Only do this if you haven't replaced your rear shocks and you need to eliminate them as being the culprit! I'm confident, though, that the balljoint is the problem. By the way, you made a good choice with the Grand Cherokee (WJ). I have a '00 GC that I'm dropping an '03 GC motor in in the morning, and the motor swap is not due to the vehicle being a piece of crap, but because the previous owner was an idiot! I also bought my wife a '06 Commander and I just sold my '88 Wrangler (we had a baby) that I built into a hell of a rockcrawler and am currently on the lookout for my next Jeep project/toy. Jeep hasn't let me down and I hope your experience is the same! Anyway, I hope I was helpful to you, so let me know how it turns out. Also, if you have anymore questions let me know. I'll check back tomorrow.
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