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Jeep Liberty Engine and Performance Problems



  • michael30144michael30144 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    The 3.7 litre engines are junk. The low grade fuel causes carbon build up on the pistons and cylinder walls causing hesitation and misfire. Use a good grade of fuel and add a good fuel treatment every 1000 miles and this will help. The dealer will make up things just to get you service dollars but try what I've told you. My advice is to sell it while its new and get something else. Most Jeep libertys have had engines replaced as early as 50k. They are nice vehicles to look at but really crappy on the reliability.
  • This has been a problem since 2003. Chrysler know they have a problem with the 3.7 engine and most liberty's have had engines replaced. The motor builds up carbon in the cylinders and pistons causing misfire. The dealers all know this but will rob you with fake repairs. use high quailty gas and a fuel additive every 1000 miles and this will help. Sell the thing and get something else. The repairs will break you before its over.
  • I am pretty sorry i bought this Jeep but I paid cash and am stuck with it. I have 14000 miles and been to the dealer about 12 times with problems. The ac/heater control box when and they had to take apart the whole dash to get at it. They kept it 7 days. I had the rear brakes wear out in 12000 miles. They should last for 40000. The dealer charged me $400 as pads and rotors are not covered. I called the mfg and they sent me a check for the $400 as they agreed it was pre-mature but nothing done to not have it happen again. My cousin is a private mechanic for 30 years and he said alot of them do it. The design on the 2010 has more weight and it overheats the rotors and burns out the pads. I will replace them with cross-drilled rotors like they use on race and police cars. Dealer would not do it. My cousin says he does it all the time and the brakes will last 45000 +. At cold starts the engine has piston slap. Sounds like a marble flying around in a can. I brought it to the dealer only to have them tell me it is normal and they all have piston slap on the v6 3.7. My cousin says they need to replace the alum. pistons and put new rings, Check the cylinder bores. When cold they bang until they got hot and then they expand to stop the slap. The dealer says they cannot repair it until it bangs all the time. The valve train also is very loud. Sounds like a sewing machine and they said they all do it. I heard others worse then mine so I believe it. Lucky I bought the extended contract as I know I will need it once theirs runs out. It has got to be the biggest pc of crap I ever bought. I like the design and it runs strong. Just too many repair failures and the engines is real crap and sounds like it has 200000 miles on it. Not 14000. The dealer will see me many times. I am retired and have all the time in the world to keep bringing it back and calling the zone until they fix the defective engine and brake system....
  • I have a 2010 with 14000 miles and it does the same. Once it is hot it smooths out but still has a somewehat rough idle. My engine sounds like a sewing machine. Piston slap on cold starts and valve train noisey. The dealer says they all do it. My rear breaks and rotors wore out at 12000 miles. dealer charged me $400. I called the zone and got my money back. If they wear out again too fast i am out of luck. I put cross drilled rotors like they use on race cars and cop cars. I should be ok now. The dealer would not do it. The rough idle and excess noise is a big problem for that engine, v6 3.7. They always are in the shop and nothing much can be done a mechanic told me. what a pc of crap i bought but I will keep bringing it back everyday, I am retired, and call the zone each time until they fix the idle and engine noise that is not normal....
  • screameaglescreameagle Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    if anyone knows of a class action lawsuit related to the ignition coil nonsense, count me in, emilyhartrn at yahoo dot com
  • Same here and I have even tape recored the noise. It has been doing it every morning at cold starts and sounds to me like under the left valve cover, valve train related. I have had it to the dealer a few times always just to hear, normal. They all do it. Todays mechanics suck. They will nebver do any repairs until broken. They will not take apart to look for the problem. They wait til it breaks. I bought the extended service plan as I know I will need it with all, the problems I have had........
  • Did you ever find out what was causing the problem? Our 02 Liberty just started having a similar problem today. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • I purchased a new 2007 Jeep Liberty Limited. It has 50,000 miles now. Last week, the check engine light came on. LAX Jeep said it was the battery. Then they said multiple problems. They thought it was a blown head gasket. They quoted me $3,000 to fix but could not guarantee this would fix the problem that I was losing power and the check engine light was on. When I purchased the vehicle it had a lifetime warranty. Now they say according the VIN number no lifetime warranty. We did have a problem with the window similar to what others experienced but another Jeep in Santa Monica fixed it for no charge. The tire pressure warning is always on and I have no idea what that is about. I plan on fixing the car with a local mechanic and after reading all these blogs, I am immediately selling. It's too bad but I will never buy a Jeep again. My 1993 Honda Civic has 204,000 miles and no problems.
  • michael30144michael30144 Posts: 10
    edited February 2013
    The 3.7 litre motor is a piece of junk. Carbon builds up on the top of the pistons and in the manifold quickly due to the ethanol they are blending in the gas. The dealer will milk you dry until you finally get tired of paying and sell or trade it. Go to Walmart and buy a bottle of Lucus Top End Cylinder Lubricant/Injector Cleaner. Use 4 ounces per 10 gallons of gas for a couple tanks of gas. Then 2 ounces per gallon thereafter. The light is from the engine misfiring. You may be ready for a tuneup. My advice is get rid of the vehicle. Good luck. :lemon:
  • jona2jona2 Posts: 1
    3.7 seems to fail at 130000 i have rebuilt 4 of these engines now and worked on countless others and carbon buildup hasnt been the cause of any of them. i chalk the issues up to faulty timing and less than adequate valve springs. the engine never seemed to perform incredibly smoothly it was too unbalanced but injector cleaner or other gas treatment isnt going to help all that much.
  • kmb687kmb687 Posts: 1
    2011 Jeep Liberty owner here as well. I have felt the samething, so I did some reading on what I own. My transmission is a CVT (Continuous Variable Transmission) for more info:

    This transmission operates in a very different manner than what most or use to. I was concerned until I did my research. The transmission is acting as it feels like its skipping gears, but what its trying to do is adjus the engine speed. Take a look at the link above. Once I had a better understanding of how the CVT worked it calmed my nerves and I changed my driving habits a bit, the jeep runs and drive great. In the end there was nothing wrong.
  • My ex and I bought this going 5 yrs ago. It now has 87000 miles. I have had to replace the body control module, which I had done at the dealership. It's still does not work right, the fuse that controls the radio, inside lights and door locks keeps blowing. The dealership says it's a short. I had the one short fixed, removed all U haul wiring for the trailer hitch and STILL it doesn't work.
    Now a year ago I did a tune up/transmission fluid change before leaving AZ to drive back to WA. Suddenly I start getting the shaking/vibration when going certain speeds(between 30 and 45) if I speed up it goes away or slowing down it goes away. Never happens if I just gun it. Everyone said oh it's the road. So I tested this out! it is NOT the road it's the jeep.So assuming the guy did something wrong (which is not the case) I took it back. They of course said it wasn't their work that is doing this. But didn't give me any idea what it could be. SOOO a year later it is getting worse.
    Also both driver side and driver side passenger windows are broken. The back hatch NO longer latches. And if I get to say about 1/4 of a tank of gas the gas light comes on. And the Air conditioner went out.
    ummm..lets see, I'm trying to make sure I got every thing right. I'm so tired and can not afford to put more money into this POS. Not to mention the stories I hear from other Liberty owners.
    I guess I'm not looking for repair advice, for I have given up on that. Just wanted to put my 2 cents in. :cry:
  • wckdgwckdg Posts: 1
    Cranks fine in the morning, idles with no i put it in drive, it immediately starts to sputter / skip. It will do this until i accelerate to above 15-20 mph...then i stop at a light and it sputters again. It's perfectly fine at higher speeds. It will do this for 10 minutes or so until i drive it around then it's fine for the rest of the day. This has been going on for a couple of weeks. Any thoughts on this? Could it be cold weather related? I live in Los Angeles and haven't had it in any "cold" weather until our recent cold weather mornings (i know it's not that cold for anywhere else, but low 40s recently in the morning is cold for L.A.). No engine light is on, took it to a mechanic and they found nothing wrong...said i should just keep driving until it gets worse. Any thoughts / experience with this? Thanks!
  • bsugar75bsugar75 Posts: 1
    I bought a 02 Jeep Liberty from a neighbor. It was driving rough and my mechanic said it needed a tune up. It also will stall out at a stop light unless you put it in neutral and keep you foot on the gas. He had an accident before doing the work and I took it to another shop. After almost 2 weeks they said it was the computer. After putting a computer in the problem was still there. They said it was a misfire. I ask them about the spark plugs. They said it wasnt spark plugs. They sent it to the dealer who kept it for 2 weeks then said one of the cylinders had no compression. After seeing post here I ask them to check the O2 sensors, egr they went with the dealers word and said to get another car because the engine needed to be replaced because it was cheaper. Has anyone else had a misdiagnosis on their Jeep?
  • jbellinjbellin Posts: 1
    Jeep 2007 liberty limited:
    Engine Misfire cylinder 4/multiple cylinders. Have taken this to two jeep dealerships and one independent garage. Most likely a valve issue addressed in Jeep technical service Bulletin 09-007-06. Here's where I'm at:
    At each mileage marker below the engine light came on and blinked during idle at the first stop but stayed on solid and did not blink and subsequent stops while driving. Car idles rough.
    • 79,667 – misfire happened. cleared the codes – didn’t diagnose said we'll just reset it and see what happens.
    • 81,236 – Had spark plug replacement 6cyl, fuel induction service, powertrain service, battery service, powertrain service and oil change. $931.28
    • 91,531 – code P0304/P0300 came on again. Tech said it was low on gas or could have a loose gas cap. Put 4 gallons in. $120.17 (total rip off as light was on before I was low on gas)
    • 92,456 – code B0300 & code 369009 Replaced battery that was almost dead and battery clamp that was corroded. $151.15 He put in the wrong codes on my invoice. It should be P0300. And what the heck is 369009? Can't find anything related to that code. Service advisor says techs just want to keep doing maintenance without diagnosing problems. I'm done with this place.
    • 100,676 miles - new shop - Fuel induction system service kit 3 part – air intake system cleaner, fuel injection cleaner, 44K put into fuel tank. Checked spark plugs even thought I told them I had new spark plugs in and they were the correct kind needed for Jeep. $246.38 Paid for same service I had done at 81,236 miles.
    • 101,354 – third jeep dealership- cylinder 4 misfire again/multiple misfires. Checked compression which was 110. .I asked if this was on all of them, they said yes. I find it hard to believe all cylinders would be the same compression if only #4 is the one with the bad valve. They checked spark plugs, Swapped plug and coil from cylinder 4 to another and misfire did not leave cylinder 4. Installed new fuel injector. Installed Cleaner combustion chamber. Performed a hot soak. Tech advised a valve job to clean all valves and seats and replace valve #4 Estimate is $1565.00
    • 102,000 – Jeep master Mechanic online ( – told him the above. His feedback was: 110 is too low for compression, it should be around 140 to 150, below 90 it won’t even fire, and at 110, it will misfire intermittently, so this is why the P0304 keeps coming back, it is easy to tell if it’s the valves or the rings, put a teaspoon of oil in that cylinder before running the compression test, and if the compression comes up with oil, then it’s a ring problem, and if it does not, then it’s a valve problem, most likely it’s the valves, and they should do all the valves when its apart.

    So I guess my next step is a valve job.
  • Was recently driving on highway and stepped on it to get into right lane very quickly and my tranny light and battery light and red engine light all came on ....... they went off seconds later and no issues since
    Was doing around 40 when I stepped on it and I have hesitation in low med and high speeds
    2007 jeep liberty sport 4wd any thoughts anyone
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