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Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Problems

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  • mtremmtrem Posts: 1
    when stop at light on drive holding the brake the car kick forward like someone it me in the back and also at 70 mph rpm at 2200 suddendly go to 3000 and come down to 2200.i taught the transmission was bad i got it rebuild ant the problem still occur again i was told to change the maf air flow sensor. what to do think about this issue
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    What year car? How many miles? What kind of service has been done?

    I can think of throttle position sensor as one item to check, not replace, unless it tests as not operating with a smooth voltage change through its range.

    I could see a vacuum leak causing unevenness at idle, but I don't think it would give a big change at 70 mph.

    MAF can be cleaned with a spray chemical and a small artist's brush hairs. The wires inside the MAF are very sensitive. I would expect a MAF to give idle trouble or stalling at low speeds as the usual symptom.

    This message has been approved.

  • scooby62scooby62 Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 p/a with 90k miles,i am on my fourth alternator in three months. i have replaced the battery and they still keep burning up after driveing for about an hour. i disconnected the neg. side on the battery and is reading 12.6 volts. i pulled all the fuses one at a time and no change in volts.
  • eserjerneserjern Posts: 1
    I have a 91 PA and for about a week after a recent engine swap, I had no problems. Now at odd intervals, when Im shifting out of park, the 60Amp "Ignition Switch" Maxi fuse under the hood will pop. This bieng a problem I have NEVER encountered before, I am completely baffeled.
  • rovehroveh Posts: 3
    Hey, I just posted a similar problem. Did you ever get a response or a fix to your smoking steering wheel. Mine is a 93 P A with about 165,000 miles. Smoked briefly a few times during a 30 mile drive to work. Any suggestions?
  • himmatisthimmatist Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Hi
    I am new to this forum and I did check this thread hoping to find something similar. Did not, so this query!

    I recently purchased a 1997 PA with 89000 miles on it.

    1. The locks for the rear doors don't work and have to be done manually. And neither the glasses roll up & down.

    2. Two days ago, I started getting a false 'Door Ajar' indication.

    3. And all the exterior lights that used to come on briefly with a small beep from the horn whenever the car was locked/unlocked from the remote, are not coming anymore even though the car is still locking/unlocking remotely.

    4. And also, the power controls for the driver's seat (Seat forward, reverse, up & down) stopped functioning for a while yesterday, but on second try, they worked and are still working.

    What could be possibly wrong with the car? Where should I be looking to fix this myself? Are all these problems connected to each other somehow?

    Please reply, this is baffling me and I do not like the idea of predicting what will go wrong next.
    Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    Check grounds. I think your battery is under the rear seat. Check all grounds for the battery going to different places. Check modules on the floor under the seat. I believe the rear doors and windows have a different fuse from the fronts and that's under the rear seat on a leSabre so I suspect it's under the rear on the Park Avenue.

    Do you have water in the carpet on the floor under the front seats? AC drain stopped up causing the water to go into the floor of the car? Sunroof? Drains on those on the H-body come loose in front where they go into the floor and under the car. Door water barriers come unsealed and water leaks into the car over the door sill instead of being forced to drain into the metal cavity of the door and out the openings on the bottom of the door under the rubber seal.

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  • Purchased "96 Buick PA, 124000 miles, in 06/2010. Beautiful car. Shortly after purchase, IL(interior lights) seemed to stay on for longer then usual while driving. One night, better half looked outside, and advised me the IL were on. Car had been parked for 7-8 hrs. Spent an hour pushing buttons\, reading manual, etc. Finally gave up, and 10 mins. later lights went out.

    Took to local GM dealer, mechanic thought problem was Twilight switch, tested, OK. Suggested Latch problem, think drivers door latch most probable, as most used. Replaced door latch, no joy, put in new module, door latch started contineous clicking and module got hot. Disconnected module. Now car does not turn on IL when parked, but keyless entry not working and IL lights stay on all the time while driving.Ilegal at night in this state. So far it has cost $462.00 to find out what ISN'T CAUSING THE PROBLEM. Mechanic states he believes problem is short under the dash board, worst case senerio $975.00 to tear apart and check each wire. No garentee problem would be solved.

    Small town, went to Ford, was told only knowledgeable about Fords. Toyota, same story. No other dealerships to choose from. I am willing to spend the money if I had a garentee that problem will be solved.

    Any help and/or advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 2003 Park Ave with 80.000 mi My battery will go dead in about 24hrs, I checked all fuses & nothing showed a power draw,Can you tell me what else to look for? Theres about a 11Amp draw from battery. thanks! Al Udeen
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    Are you saying you removed the fuses one-by-one and found that didn't eliminate the high drain? Did you pull all fuses? I don't know where the PA has the blocks, but my 2003 leSabre has a fuse block under the rear seat and a fuse block under the hood.

    Are you saying it's an 11 amp draw? You didn't leave out the decimal?

    My first guess would be to disconnect the alternator from the circuit and see if that's it.

    And then there's the starter. You can disconnect the positive red cable, but I'd disconnect it from the battery first and then insulate the end you took off and reconnect at the battery.

    If it's an 11 amp draw, you should be able to feel warmth in the cable going to the item with the draw--at least that's my thinking on it.

    This message has been approved.

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    edited September 2010
    Yeah, I'd second Imidazol97's thoughts. An 11amp draw would probably kill your battery in way less than 24 hrs, if not create a fire hazard. Starter and Alternator would be good things to check out at first, just be sure to disconnect your battery before pulling the large cable on either of them.

    Sounds like you've done some testing already, have you also tried to pull the little silver circuit breaker boxes as they are usually higher amp. You may try to feel them and see if they are warm.

    If you haven't considered it yet, has anything changed or have you had any maint done on the car just before this started happening?

    As an example, I had a new exhaust put on my old truck (which I rarely drive) and the next time I tried to drive it some time later at night, I found I had no dash lights or rear running lights. I got underneath the truck and found where the muffler shop employee had attached an exhaust hanging strap to the frame with a bolt, he had shorted out a wire when he carelessly caught it under the metal strap. It would blow a fuse as soon as you turned the lights on.

    Keep us updated with what you find.
  • Somehow my mechanic got it to not draw power & I had the battery replaced. Seems OK but, That was yesterday, time will tell? Thank You Kindly! Al Udeen
  • I have a 2005 Buick Park Avenue Ultra with about 105,000 miles on it. When the temperature is above 60F, and it's dry, the power windows work normally. As soon as the temp drops below 60 or it rains (even a heavy dew can cause the problem) the windows operate incredibly slowly. It can take 30 seconds or more to get the window from closed to fully down. Sometimes the windows will come down about an inch and then stop at that point and will not go down any further. It will close back up, and sometimes repeated open and close cycles will get them to open beyond an inch, but sometimes not. I had the exact same issue with my 2000 Ultra, so I don't think this is specific to my vehicle. The back windows don't seem to have this problem, only the front windows on both sides do. The car does have a sunroof in case that matters. I bought the vehicle 4 years ago with 70K miles on it, and it's done this since I bought it.

    I've asked about this at the dealership when I was having other things worked on. They told me the only thing they could do was replace the power window modules at a cost of $800 each. That's not a reasonable option to me.

    I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this, and what options I might have other than replacing the power window modules.
  • I had the same problem. I replaced the motor on the drivers side, they call them modules, twice, and still had slow window movement. Finally tried applying silicone spray heavily on the tracks. That was 2 years ago, still going up and down fine. The passenger side is slow, but I have not fixed it as I don't drive on that side. You have to take the interior of the door off to lubricate the tracks.
  • This car has 312K on it, doing fine. Replaced the front valve cover gasket and reduced the oil consumption and stink quite a bit. But that rear one is tough. The heater hose connectors do not allow the cover clearance to come completely off. Am I missing something, or do I have to take the antifreeze out and remove the connector? And how does the connector come off?

    btw, still getting 25.8 mpg figured by gas and mileage. The computer is always 3 mpg higher.
  • brich97brich97 Posts: 2
    i changed my signal light switch on my 97 park ave now the radio dont work or windshield wipers and my windows only work sometimes do anyone have a solutions???
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Did you replace with a new or used switch? If used, are you sure it's the exact same model? Some of the different models look alike externally, but I'm not sure if all the wires match the connector positions.

    If you replaced with a used model, did all the wire colors match the unit you pulled out? I'm sorry, but I don't a schematic that lists the wire colors with their purpose for a '97.

    You might also double check that all the connections are tight, and that no wires pulled loose from the connectors when you install.

    If the wires all match, and the connectors are tight, the only other thing I would check would be the fuses.
  • brich97brich97 Posts: 2
    thanks bowfan, I got a used switch never thought about it being a different model because it fit but some auto wreckers will sell you anything as long as it fit and sure the wiring was a different color I notice that right away but I tried it.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    yep, they will. In my '98 the right turn signal quit working. I thought the turn signal flasher unit was at fault, so I spent the $50 for the dealer only part, pulled my dash completely off (huge job) replaced the flasher and found I still had the problem. I found out that if I pulled my bulb for the bright white cornering lamp the turn signal worked again, so I took a ohm meter and tested the resistance of the multi-function turn signal lever / switch at the C202 connector and found the right turn signal was way different than the left turn. The contacts just won't handle the current draw. The multi-function TS lever / switch costs around $350 just for the part, so I took the cheaper path. I simply removed the cornering lamp which apparently draws a lot of amperage. I have both turn signals, but no right cornering lamp. .. sigh... :(

    I have read ( just today) where some people swap out to a LED bulb because it draws much less amperage, but I have not pursued that avenue yet. I'll have to take a look at that.

    If you look on eBay, you can find several models that look exactly like ours at the column, but the wiring harnesses are different lengths or connectors. I'd guess internally, they'd be the same as ours. At one point I considered getting one, ( I think it was for full size GM SUV) and just matching up the wires to my connectors... but then that got pushed to the back of the long list of chores, once I got the turn signal working again. :P
  • Instrument Cluster LED lights not working
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    2002 Buick Park Ave., the LED lights that illuminate the odometer and transmission shift selector, i.e. D, R, N, 1, 2, 3 quite working. The lights that illuminate the analog tach, speedometer are ok. I want to know precisely what electronic component (probably on a circuit card) it is that goes bad. I believe it possible to desolder that component, and replace it. I believe this is something I can do, instead of replacing it or having it sent off to be rebuilt. I had the same problem with the AC & Heater control, that displays the temp. in LED mode, yet still provided control for AC, heater. Eventually I replaced it with a used one that does light up.
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