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Chrysler Pacifica Sticking Throttle

I have a 2006 Pacifica FWD Base with 56,000 miles. Over the last couple of months, the throttle has become harder to push down. The other day while pulling away from a stop sign in the rain, I pressed the throttle about an eighth on inch, and the car did not move. I pushed harder and harder, and then the throttle moved about half an inch and I spun the right front tire. Last night my wife was backing uphill out of a parking spot. She gave about half an inch of throttle, and the throttle stuck in that position. She had to slam on the brakes to stop the car.
Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need to remove my air cleaner and spray cleaner into the throttle body?

Comments

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,440
    could be an issue at the pedal assembly or cable. I would lube down both and see what happens. And make sure the floormat isn't causing a problem (silly, i know, but you'd be surprised how often this happens and folks don't notice).

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Mrrogers:

    Ours is going in this Wed for the same problem....resistance for the first 1/4" of travel. A minor annoyance when trying give it gas on the freeway.

    Dealer replaced a gas pedal assembly on one 2 weeks ago with a similar problem.

    Might want to look at the actual pedal assembly and lubricate it.

    thanks

    vic
  • Update to my posting:

    They ordered a new gas pedal assembly..but forgot to order a "clip" necessary. It was a wasted trip to the dealer and a real PIA. Next trip is this week.

    Will keep you all informed.

    Vic
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    Vic,
    I appreciate the update. I was under the hood checking the throttle, and everything looks okay. The throttle return spring is very strong.
    I checked my gas pedal under the dash, and it seems okay. As you know, the floor mat has the locating device near the seat, so the floor mat does not interfere with the gas pedal.
    I mentioned something to my wife about lubricating the throttle, and she said not to as soon I will be turning the heater on and get the oil smell in the car. Not that I'm henpecked or anything.
  • On Sunday, I sprayed some WD-40 on the plastic axle pieces that the gas pedal rotates around. Also placed some white grease where the cable goes into the firewall (at least, as high as I could reach).

    Will try it now and see if it helped.

    thanks
    Vic
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    Vic,
    I appreciate the update. Please let us know how you make out. Good Luck!
  • The same thing happened to my 2005 Pacifica with 40K miles. I took my problem to the dealer. They performed trottle body service and the problem was fixed. The service was $100.
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    Thank you for your input!
  • settlmasettlma Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2006 Pacifica! PLEASE call the NHTSA at 1-888-3276 about this problem. That is the only way Chrysler will investigate! I was told by the mechanic "it is a design problem with the engine of the Pacifica....we can fix it for $89.95"!!! Needless to say I was shocked that they would not cover it under warranty. My dealer also charged me because my air bag light comes on while I am driving and they said they "couldn't find a code that says it is going off". I took a picture of it with my cell phone and they said that wasn't enough proof!!!!! I will NEVER buy another Chrylser again!
  • vic_vinylevic_vinyle Posts: 34
    Chrysler did replace the throttle assembly cable under warranty. There was some improvement but for now, we will just live with it.
  • I had the same problem. Sprayed some carb cleaner around the throttle body and wiped it down with a paper towel. There were tons of buildup, carbon I guess. After cleaning, the pedal didn't stick anymore.
  • oldsman4oldsman4 Posts: 8
    Hello,
    Its not a problem with the cable or linkage, its the throttle body plate binging up within its bore. If you clean it and remove the muck, it will be ok for a little while, but ultimately the T/B will need to be replaced to completely eliminate the problem. Hopefully they revised the T/B like Ford did with the Explorer throttle body recall. Same problem, but a LOT worse. THe gas would snap after you pressed hard enough on it and you would do a huge burn-out! Ha!
  • cignetcignet Posts: 1
    I bought had a used 05 pacifica with 60,000 mi a year ago. The accelerator later started sticking when I accelerate then it jumps unexpectedly. This is very dangerous in stop and go traffic. I sprayed the accelerator switch or whatever (the piece under the dash the pedal attaches to) with WD40 and it cleared the sticking for a while, now it is sticking again.
    Nice car but I cannot live with this, its too dangerous. If chrysler cannot fix it perminately free I'm trading it sap!
    Ps. The air bag lite comes on also. Crysler has PROBLEMS, Its my last one!!!
    Pss. It has the Oil Comsumptson Problem too. Uses a quart of oil every week! Thats with 10w 50 oil. Its not a keeper! Dont buy one! :mad:
  • I have a 2006 that the gas peddle was sticking. I had taken the pedal apart, applied WD40 and also did the WD40 on the spring attached to the throttle body, but that didn't help. Yesterday I removed the air filter housing and cleaned inside the throttle body with Carb cleaner and a tooth brush and it's works great now!!
    P.S. Use a tooth brush your not currenting using for your teeth! lol :)
  • jtg61jtg61 Posts: 43
    The throttle body getting dirty seems to be a recurring problem with the Pacifica. My 2005 3.8L Pacifica wouldn't idle and it turned out to be a dirty throttle body. Thank you for the tip of how to clean it ourselves.
  • oldsman4oldsman4 Posts: 8
    Way to go! Feels great fixing it yourself doesnt it! There is also a manufacturing issue with these throttle bodies. The plate is designed too tight inside the bore. Being a diagnostic tech myself, after I cleaned it, it only had a little stick when hot. I removed it and found where the throttle plate was scuffing the bore and buffed the bore out with emry cloth. Be careful if you try this-as too much removal will affect the calibration of the housing.(Remember to clean it with T/B cleaner before install after this to get the grit out). After this proedure my pacifica is perfect. BTW- I have an 06 and I use 1/4qt of oil per 3500mi with 65000 on the clock. If you are going thru anything close to a qt per 1Kmi- that is crazy excessive. I call one qt of the correct oil per 2500 being used maxed out. Anything more means there is a problem. I love my Pacifica tho! Hope this helps some of you!
  • woywoy Posts: 2
    Currently at 60K miles and am now experiencing a sticking throttle when moving from idle or parked position...have to push pretty far to get any movement response..and then car jolts forward or backward depending on if in drive or reverse.
  • oldsman4oldsman4 Posts: 8
    Yep! You got it. Thats EXACTLY what they do. Clean the throttle body first, then check it for scuffing on the inner wall where the plate closes(at idle position). It has to be real clean and removed from the car to see it. At that spot is where you need to lightly buff the inside of the housing so the plate does not catch(bind) on it anymore. My throttle is now perfect and normal after repairing it. Hope this helps! Sure beats replacing the throttle body. Doesnt matter how much lube you put on the pedal assy- if the T/B is binding at idle this is hot to fix it for good. An 80$ cleaning at a repair shop is a bandaid if there are signs of scuffing on the wall. The problem will come back-just not as bad.
  • The pacific air bag light comes on to tell you it is turned off. It has a sensor in the seat. If you set an object in the passenger seat that the sensor deems to be a small child it deactivated the air bag not to harm them in a crash. :shades:
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 209
    I have two Pacifics every four months spray some throttle body cleaner about 3 dollars in the opening of the throttle body hold the butterfly open and scrub with tooth brush it will work like new
  • dealer was going to charge us min $250 to clean throttle body. how about u?
  • I charge 50$ to clean and CORRECT the problem. Remember, its not only the carbon thats causing the problem- it is actually a machining issue within the throttle bore. If you clean it, sure it will be fine for a few months, but then the problem will be back. See my previous post to actually fix the issue. My Pacifica has been perfect for 2yrs. 250$ sounds like a price quote to do a complete top end intake scrub including a t/b cleaning. Just cleaning the throttle body is a simple procedure, but will not FIX the issue.
  • I have a similar problem with the sticking throttle that has been occuring for at least 2 years without change. This is a 2004 Pacifica FWD with 75,000 miles. When the engine is off, the gas peddle moves smoothly and easily through the full range of motion. When the engine is running, the peddle resists at first and then releases providing a quick surge in response to steady foot pressure. I'm interested in trying to clean the throttle body assembly. Is there anyplace that I can see a picture of this assembly or will it be obvious when I open the air cleaner?

    BTW, the engine uses no oil and it appears very clean on the dipstick. I have the oil changed regularly. The only other problem experienced is the Tire Pressure Monitor light. Could be due to a slow leak in one tire.
  • Thanks to all who posted a solution to this problem. I think it is safe to say that lubricating the gas pedal bearing joint will NOT solve the problem. The answer is to buy "Carb and Throttle Body Cleaner" (yes, they make cleaner just for this problem). I bought mine at the local Advantage Auto for 3.99. The hard part is getting the air cleaner off. You should undo the 2 bolts that hold the top on the air cleaner, and loosen the 2 stainless steel clamps that connect the air cleaner to the engine with what I call an "accordion hose"then push it toward the accordion hose (sorry, I don't know what the parts are called). afterward, take off the accordion hose exposing the throttle "blade". A diagram for this is located at "http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-pacifica-15/cleaning-pacificas-thro- ttle-body-4734/". If you try to clean the blade without removing the air cleaner top, you will have trouble reaching into the throttle body. Also, when I removed the air cleaner, I noticed that the air feed at the bottom of the air cleaner was misaligned so that road air was entering directly into the air cleaner. Soooo, I fixed this too. Anyway, I followed the suggestion to use an old tooth brush to scrub and found that it took me about 15 interations of spray, scrub and wipe before the loose gunk stopped appearing. It looked like new when complete. After reassembling the air cleaner and wrestling the hoses back where they belong (hint: attach the engine side first, then the air cleaner side), the engine purrs like a kitten and the throttle is smooth as silk. It took me about an hour, but then my hands are clumsy and I like to take pictures along the way to guide me as I reassemble. You may be able to do it faster.
  • oldsman4oldsman4 Posts: 8
    Hello, yes it will be plainly obvious when you take the air intake boot off of the throttle body. I highly recc removing the throttle body(its three bolts if I remember correctly) when you clean it. These people that clean it bolted to the intake are not wise... Remember, when you disturb this carbon, with a throttle body solvent, where do you think it is sprayed into? Thats correct- the intake manifold to be sucked into the cylinders when the engine is started. It is called carbon because it is a very hard deposit and it damages the aluminum in the engine when it is disturbed. Do your enigne a favor and remove the t/b and clean it over a bucket with cleaner and a vinyl brush. Then look closely and find the area where the bore is scuffed by the blade. This is actually what is causing the issue in the first place. The carbon build up just makes it worse. Use a piece of fine emry cloth and buff the bore until the blade does not come in contact with it and bind. After you clean it once more, re-install the T/B and you will never have the problem again. I have done a lot of these. A cleaning alone is just a temp fix.
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