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Ford Explorer Transmission Questions

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Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I have always had trouble with what the dealer told you about not changing old oil on old transmissions, but oddly enough, there always seems to be some anecdotal evidence that it's true. Nevertheless, I would try some of the various TransCure treatments you can buy at a retail auto parts store, one that says, "cures slippage", and see if that helps. If not, you're done for. You'll need a rebuild. Sorry!
  • dwsforddwsford Posts: 1
    Low gear seems to be out in my 97 Ford explorer. All other gears are working. Any advice on what the problem may be.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Probably a band has broken, but it's going to need a rebuild to fix it. No other way.
  • jsaperjsaper Posts: 1
    Are you sure it is a trans problem and not an excessively loud coolant fan,the coolant fan is the cause of thousands of trans complaints
  • No it's not a trans fan. It's making a little ticking noise on the trans. I talked to the ford dealer and they said I shoulnt have change the transmission oil if it wasn't done regularly. The sludge on the transmission was keeping the gears together. I talked to several mechanic and they said the same. But it still doesn't make sense to me why this would happen. I added some Lucas transmission additive and it seems to help. But I really have to warm up the truck and drive it around before I can drive it on the street. This is what has to happen when it's cold. Thank you so much for responding.
  • saludos, vivo en venezuela y tengo una ford explorer eddie bauer V8 2008 con un problema similar, el golpe de la caja, acudi a muchos concesionarios o agencias y siempre me dijeron que ese golpe era normal y ademas que no habia forma de quitarselo hasta que me comunique con FORD de VENEZUELA a traves de su pagina web y en pocos dias me llamaron para enviarme a un taller especifico donde me resolverian el asunto y realmente fue asi, despues de casi 3 años la camioneta definitivamente es otra, les cuento que le reactualizan el soft ware y para ello cuando se le esta cargando, la camioneta debe ser manejada durante al menos 15 minutos en una via totalmente plana sin frenar para que la computadora aprenda a cambiar sin brusquedad y debe ser manejada por un tecnico que tenga oido con el motor para asi acelerarla de manera adecuada y cambie apropiadamente, esto debe hacerlo 3 o 4 veces, en defecto de la via libre y plana, realizan el procedimiento sobre un puente dinamico que solo talleres bien especializados lo tienen. Por ello le recomiendo que se comuniquen con FORD pues seguro le resuelven el asunto.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,867
    The member above lives in Venezuela and has a 2008 Ford Eddie Bauer V8 with a similar problem - the thunking - and he also went to many shops where they told him it was normal and there was no way to fix it. Then he contacted Ford of Venezuela via their website and they called him and send him to a specific shop where, after 3 years of having this problem, he was told that you need retrain the software by driving the truck for at least 15 minutes on a totally flat surface, without braking, so that the computer can learn to change without abruptness. This should be handled by a technician who can hear the motor and ensure that it is accelerating and changing properly. This may have to be done 3-4 times, and in the absence of a free & flat surface, specialized mechanics have equipment to replicate this.

    He highly recommends contacting Ford to resolve this situation.

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  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    edited September 2011
    I wish that worked, but having had one of these transmissions, I sincerely doubt it. Mine had to be frequently reflashed to resolve the problem, which it would do, only to recur in a few thousand miles. It was leased, so I let it go back, but my friend bought it, and has had the continuing problem. Having owned 8 Explorers, most of them being excellent vehicles, in my opinion, once you get one with a bad transmission, you may as well get rid of it, they seem to be cursed with no long term remedy. I've had two of them, an 04, and an 06.
  • OK, let me preface this with I have 232,000 miles on my Explorer and no complaints or problems (knock on wood). That said, starting a few days ago when I disengage the cruise or let off the gas at over 40 mph it makes a whining sound almost like a gear spinning or turbocharger sounds. If I tap the accelerator it stops. Know it has to be in the transmission or torque converter. Any thougths?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My only thought is, if you have 223,000 on it, it has served you very well. Sounds like my first Explorer, 1994, and my best one. Went 150,000 miles with only one problem. Eventually the shift motor for the 4WD went out.

    But I digress.....
  • Thanks nvbanker! Good info and it is a fix I may attemptmyself. Appears pretty straight forward and I have been playing with cars all my life. You were a great help!
  • Hi everyone! I hope everybody's doing great!

    Can anyone tell me how i can check the transmission fluid pressure on a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT?
    I just found out how complicated it is to put the trani fluid in to this car, so i would like to check the pressure first =)
    I think the fluid is low, but I'm not 100% sure...

    It would be great if somebody could help me, thank you!
  • windcatcher066windcatcher066 Posts: 2
    edited November 2011
    Miss Niki,

    I think you want to check your fluid level? To do this make sure the vehicle is level and at operating temp. . On the transmission pan is a large hex with a smaller plug(may be allen or torx head)inside. Remove the inner plug and fluid should drip out. If it does not add the correct fluid until it does. (refer to manual, I believe its MerconV). To add fluid you will need something to force the fluid against the forces of gravity and through that small hole. This would be beneficial to do this because at this point you can add fluid. To check the pressure you would need an expensive pressure gauge(which you will probably never use again) and be unplugging and plugging an area that might leak, and you can not add fluid at this location. A pressure reading may indicate an extremely low level, but not necessarily the correct operating level.
  • I have a 2005 Mercury Mountaineer which the fuel gauge intermittently reads empty. It is a 4.0 flex fuel model. I have read posts about 2002 models needing wiring kits or flex fuel modules to correct this. Anybody know where to start on this model?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    More likely, it's your fuel pump, which has an attached float and provides voltage to the guage. Sometimes, whey they age, the float sticks. More often, they stick up and read full, but it's also possible the float has a leak in it and won't float all the time, and sinks to the bottom. This happens on virtually all cars, by the way, not just these. I'd start with replacing the fuel pump. If you're going to do it yourself, I think you have to drop the tank, and if so, make sure it's empty as possible! They're very heavy full. Good luck.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...intermittently reads empty..."

    An open fuel guage sensor would indicate a full, OVER full, tank. A short, less than 30 ohms, would read empty. A "sunk" fuel sensor due to a leaking float would also indicate empty but would not likely be an intermittent situation.

    So the most likely cause is a short, to the chasis, in the wiring between the top of the fuel tank and the instrument.
  • My explorer is doing some really weird things... I hope someone can help! When I first start it, it will rev up to almost the red sometimes it dies sometimes not. When I put it in gear it 'jerks' really hard almost feels like I hit something. When driving it shifts real hard in 1st and 2nd. Another thing, when first driving after it has set overnight or for a few hours, it does this thing like if you were to pump the accelerator while driving... bounces very annoying!!
    Please does anyone know what the heck is going on? Is it just a piece and I should count my losses and look for something else or can it be fixed? Thanks so much!!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If it does it consistently, so you can demostrate it to the shop, it should be fixable, and possibly pretty cheaply. Some component is failing and causing this to happen. It may be easy. I'd give it a try, for sure.

    The hard ones to fix are the ones that rarely do it, and NEVER do it within 1000 feet of the mechanic....
  • Thank you. Im def gonna take it somewhere to have someone look at it! Its just soo annoying!!
  • 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0L. The transmission seems to not shift between 2nd and 3rd for a few minutes. It will drive fine for a while, then it does the slip again and the rpm increases when I give it gas. I wait a few minutes and it drives fine again. It is intermittent. Also, when this happens, the temp gauge will shoot to the top and after about 2 to 5 seconds, come back down to normal. A diagnostic showed a mis-fire on #3 spark plug. I changed the coil pack and plugs 1, 2, & 3. It is still doing this.

    I believe it to be a bad sensor maybe or governor. Thoughts?
  • Greetings,

    We had our 2003 Explorer's transmission go out on us, and had a local shop replace it with a rebuilt transmission. Two weeks after the repairs we find that the "new" transmission is slipping and the O/D light is flashing. We took it back to the shop, who indicated a day later, that the computer needs some time to adjust to the repairs. This sounds odd to me . . . not knowing much about this, I thought I would see what your thoughts are.

    Thanks,
    RedLass
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm calling BS on that one. I suspect your shop put in a "salvaged" transmission from a wrecking yard, and it's faulty as well as your old transmission. The slipping and
    OD flashing light indicate imminent failure. They owe you another transmission. The computer has nothing to do with this problem. Especially the slipping!!!! That mechanic should be closed down by the Bunko Cops. They are crooks. Go get your money back - you've been frauded, and take it to a more reputable shop. Don't trust these guys!

    In short the one they put in, is as bad as the one they took out, IF in fact, they even replaced it to begin with! :mad:
  • I agree with nvbanker. I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XP and I purchased brand new. My transmission went out at 42,000 miles and the OD light was flashing and gears slipping. I was even given the defective parts. My SUV was out of warranty and Ford would not take any responsiblity even though I have read about many problems with their transmissions during this period. I had to take mine to an independent and they replaced it with a rebuilt transmission. I now have 91,000 miles and have had no problems. They never told me anything about the computer needing to adjust. Sounds like there was a problem with the "new" transmission they put in your SUV. Hopefully they gave you some type of limited warranty.
  • Thanks to both of you for your response/advice. I do show a 12- month/12,000 mile warranty in the paperwork, so they have offered to take the transmission back out and put it in again, but sounds silly if the "new" transmission is bad. I think I'll dispute the charge on my card and see what happens with that move. Live and learn. . .
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If you were to disconnect the 12 volt battery for 10-15 minutes the engine/transmission control(ling) ECU would reload the factory default control parameters and it might take 100-200 miles before the transmission returns to "normal" operation.

    Anyone swapping out a transmisison is likely to be aware of the need to do this.

    You want to have the ECU "re-learn" the correct control parameters for the "new" transmission. On the other hand the question arises as to whether or not the "new" transmission is fully compatable with the revision level of the ECU firmware.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    (St,d)ealers have a perfect right to question the causative factor(s) for pre-mature failures of drive line components with a vehicle that can be so easily miss-configured, locked center diff'l on a tractive surface, for actual roadway conditions.

    I find myself continually amazed reading some of the posts here indicating a poor knowledge of/about the use of adverse condition drive systems.

    There is NO system that can endure use, actual engaged use, on a tractive roadbed for very long, or accumulatively.
  • i have a 96 explorer, on my way back from wanachee, my gears were slipping , i could stop put it in park then a minute put it back into drive and the gears would engage and could drive a few more miles before doing the same thing again, this accured 2 or three time got to a 7-11 check the tranny fluid and it was fine got back on the road and at a light the tranny was slipping and tryed putting in park with some rough grinding noise it did go into park putting back into park it wouldn't ingage..so i towed it home...explaining to a transmission shop they were indicating it sounded more like a transfer case issue.so i pulled and took to them, a week and they still haven't checked it ..i picked it up and took to a salvage yard to just get another one, explaining to the salvage yard the issues they were telling me it really sounds more of a transmission problem, not a transfer case..so now my question on here is this sound more like a tranny issue??? can any one help!!!
  • As a consumer and not mechanically inclined as many, when I take my vehicle for repair and spend $2500 on a rebuilt transmission or any type of repair, I expect for it to be fixed. If it is not, then it is the responsibility of the mechanic, not the consumer, to rectify the problem. Unless this information is given to the consumer, they may be unaware of the need to disconnect the battery nor should they have to perform this procedure. I would take it back to the mechanic for a thorough check. Especially since the rebuilt transmission is under warranty.
  • My 2006 Explorer has only 45000 miles on it and I have trouble from day one with
    a jackrabbity throttle and when you step on the gas going up a hill or just speeding
    up it sounds like the transmission is going to fall on the ground. I have had it in
    a number of times, and the dealer can't seem to find anything wrong with it. Any
    suggestions. D. Wood
  • i have the same problem ? did you fix it ? and how what was the problem i get tired
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