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Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems



  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Must have been the cam position sensor in the distributor. Ignition module is mounted on the coil on newer models. The random misfire P0300 can be injectors, cap/rotor, coil, ign mod, vac leak, and a few others so this is way a good dealer scan can save you money - if they can actually spot the cause - some never pop a code and only occur at certain throttle conditions. Mine was a crank sensor that threw timing off so at full throttle leaned the fuel mix out and misfires in all cylinders. So a lean mixture due to failing fuel pump can also cause this. Good you found it.
  • Color me unlucky ( I wasn't really stupid was I- no answer required on that )

    My 86 S-15 Jimmy ( 1992 engine )311,000 miles, 2.8, started having a slow idle and stalling( ran fine) so I figured I would find the vacuum leak with starting fluid. Found it,(vacuum fittings on air cleaner) idle came up so I turned it off and walked away to find a small fire by the fire wall when I came back a few minutes later.

    It could have been worse. The coil and electrical connectors on them were partly melted along with the insulation on the wires going to the connectors ( but they are identifible by going back a few inches) and the distributer cap melted up one post.

    What is that box mounted with the coil with what looks like heat fins on it?

    I will go to the Junk yard an get a coil ( I need the connectors on top too) along with that box I can't identify ) replace the distributer cap and then I am stuck.

    Maybe I will get lucky and find the vacuum hoses and fittings also but I have the feeling that without something showing me where all the vacuum lines come from and go I am going to be in trouble. I ordered a Chilton Manuel maybe they will have a diagram.

    Any ideas for someone who is kind of a parts replacer rather than a mechanic?

    I am also posting as a Public Service Announcement that ether ( starting fluid ) can take some time to ignite so don't walk away soon.
  • Sounds like the ignition module (1x2" IC pack). Good luck. You can buy new connectors at many stores.
  • My 99 S-10 Blazer engine missfires (4.3liter tbi) when cold but runs great when warmed up. One shop said this is caused by the ECM. No codes showing and all sensors checked good. Milage is 204,000+ Please help!!
  • I am trying to pull the module inside the distributor. The problem is when i took the rotor out the module is under something metal. Do I have to remove the whole distributor to remove it or is there something I am missing.
  • Did you have to pull the whole distibutor. If not how do you get the module from under the metal piece? I pulled the rotor and the piece is directly under it. I removed the screws in the module but it wont slip out
  • The cam sensor has 2 torque screws that hold it in BUT the dist position only allows 1 spot where the sensor clears that rotating asembly so you can bump the starter till it lines up or remove the dist. This is 96up so if older model and its the ignition module thats a diff story.
  • same as other posts answer.
  • Could be lots of things at that mileage. Fuel pressure needs to be 60psi for cold start so that is one to check first and thats usually the pump in the tank. Then on to a full tuneup with cap/rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air, PCV, clean MAF sensor, etc you get the picture. Then possible wiring or sensor, connector, etc.
  • We just bought a 96 Blazer... The 4 wheel drive is not working... It sounds like it is trying to click in but doesnt... There are 3 Vac lines on the transfer case that are not hooked up... I don't know where these go.... Can anybody help
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I hope they are still hooked to the formed rubber connector that snaps over the transfer case 3 port switch - if so on the NP233 3 button case on the drivers side halfway down thats the 3 port switch - clip it back on it only goes on one way with the keyed post. One is the vac from the engine, one is the line to the front actuator, the third is a vent line to the front act and transfer case. If the 3 port switch is bad its $15 Motormite #49315 at most auto stores and takes a 7/8" box end to replace. If all lines separated and no rubber connector then reply and I'll explain what goes to what.
  • There is no Vac coming from box on intake... Does it come from Transfer case?? Does the Vac come from another place... I cant seem to find vac anywhere... The Lines are connected to the transfer case with the 3 port connector then they go to the front of transmission and then they got burned.... So I don't know where to go from there... Thank You.....
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    OK here we go.
    1. Vac comes from underhood drivers side. Follow the vac line 5/32" from by the valve cover PCV over to the drivers side and replace rotted lines (all are) and to a vac reservior can in the fender (yes you can feel to put a new line on) and one Ts off to run down to the 3 port and the final plastic at the end is for the heater controls.
    2. On the 3 port rubber connector if you look inside it you will see 3 holes/lines and a keyed position hole. With the keyed hole at the bottom of your view there are 2 lines above one on left is the VENT line one on right the VAC line from the engine. Then the third line at the peak of the triangle is to the front ACTUATOR line.
    3. Straight lines from the vac and to the actuator. But that vent line is T to a transfer case vent line and then should run up the transmission dip stick secured by a tie and has a vent cap on it.
    4. Another check is to look at the 3 port switch which then has 3 plastic line tubes/connectore and a fixed plastic pole as the keyed position (of the rubber to line up). Looking down on the top of this 3 port switch the vac is on the left, the vent on the right, and the top of the triangle line is the actuator.
    Thats it - take your time and it should work. I would change that switch anyway while under there so if any problems rules that out up front.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, so you have gone through a case of belt dressing, changed both idler pulleys, and that blasted new Gates belt still starts chirping again within miles.

    I couldn't believe it when a mechie showed me what it was. Are you ready?

    It's the painted on Gates logo and part number. When the label goes by the top idler pulley (it is running on the back side of the belt, remember)the paint used on the label makes a distinctive "chirp". The label is painted in two different spots on the belt. I took a little silicon grease and rubbed it on one of the labels and, sure enough, only got the chirp half as often per belt rotation. Rubbed the grease on the other label and the noise disappeared completely.

    The mechie said with time the noise will go away on its own, but that he had seen this on numerous belts. Treating with belt dressing will help for a while, but the dressing doesn't stick to the painted label, so once is cleans off, back comes the chirp.

    Durndest thing I have seen in a long time.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Thank you - that's one sharp mechanic!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • 53jinx53jinx Posts: 6
    I just inherited a 1992 Plymouth Sundance. Since the day I got it I’ve been fighting a squeaky belt to my alternator. After messing with the tension I had it down to a tolerable level. However, after using some stop leak for my radiator, some of the fluid come out of the over flow dump and landed on the belt and the squeak was back. I decided to give belt dressing a shot. That was a mistake. It only got worse. I tried adjusting the tension some more, however it didn’t help.

    I decided to switch out belts. I read through the forums and based on others recommendations for noisy belts I decided to go with the Goodyear Gatorback or a Gates belt. I went to Pep Boys, and they didn’t have either. So I went to Napa and they pulled a “Napa” belt off the shelf. I was about to walk out when the guy showed me on the back of the label that Gates made their “Napa” label belt. I decided to give it a shot. I replaced the belt and the noise was cut by about 2/3, but still there. Then I read your blurb about the Silicone Grease on the label, and it worked like a charm. The only silicone grease I could find was “Danco Silicone Faucet Grease” at Home Depot, but it worked. Thanks for the advice!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Glad to help. It has to be one of the oddest noise producers I have ever seen.

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,955
    I love solutions like this. You should write up a CarSpace Guide about it so the cure will get even more Google hits.
  • sbalsanosbalsano Posts: 5
    Back in march the dealer repaired coolant leak from intake,replacing lower manifold and gasket. they also performed complete cooling system flush, 10 days later had to have it towed back because it started to blow hot from the a/c and temp gauge reading over heat.the dealer said i blew upper rad. hose,they replaced that. 6 weeks later same problem, this time i let it rest about 4 hours checked for leaks, it cooled and drove fine. i took it to another gm dealer, they could not find a thing wrong, they did pressure tests found no leaks, changed the thermostat just in case. now 10 days later same problem, i never had this before the first dealer visit. any ideas?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    It doesn't sound like quite the same problem but you may want to check this out: No Heat And Overheating

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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