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Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I hope they are still hooked to the formed rubber connector that snaps over the transfer case 3 port switch - if so on the NP233 3 button case on the drivers side halfway down thats the 3 port switch - clip it back on it only goes on one way with the keyed post. One is the vac from the engine, one is the line to the front actuator, the third is a vent line to the front act and transfer case. If the 3 port switch is bad its $15 Motormite #49315 at most auto stores and takes a 7/8" box end to replace. If all lines separated and no rubber connector then reply and I'll explain what goes to what.
  • There is no Vac coming from box on intake... Does it come from Transfer case?? Does the Vac come from another place... I cant seem to find vac anywhere... The Lines are connected to the transfer case with the 3 port connector then they go to the front of transmission and then they got burned.... So I don't know where to go from there... Thank You.....
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    OK here we go.
    1. Vac comes from underhood drivers side. Follow the vac line 5/32" from by the valve cover PCV over to the drivers side and replace rotted lines (all are) and to a vac reservior can in the fender (yes you can feel to put a new line on) and one Ts off to run down to the 3 port and the final plastic at the end is for the heater controls.
    2. On the 3 port rubber connector if you look inside it you will see 3 holes/lines and a keyed position hole. With the keyed hole at the bottom of your view there are 2 lines above one on left is the VENT line one on right the VAC line from the engine. Then the third line at the peak of the triangle is to the front ACTUATOR line.
    3. Straight lines from the vac and to the actuator. But that vent line is T to a transfer case vent line and then should run up the transmission dip stick secured by a tie and has a vent cap on it.
    4. Another check is to look at the 3 port switch which then has 3 plastic line tubes/connectore and a fixed plastic pole as the keyed position (of the rubber to line up). Looking down on the top of this 3 port switch the vac is on the left, the vent on the right, and the top of the triangle line is the actuator.
    Thats it - take your time and it should work. I would change that switch anyway while under there so if any problems rules that out up front.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, so you have gone through a case of belt dressing, changed both idler pulleys, and that blasted new Gates belt still starts chirping again within miles.

    I couldn't believe it when a mechie showed me what it was. Are you ready?

    It's the painted on Gates logo and part number. When the label goes by the top idler pulley (it is running on the back side of the belt, remember)the paint used on the label makes a distinctive "chirp". The label is painted in two different spots on the belt. I took a little silicon grease and rubbed it on one of the labels and, sure enough, only got the chirp half as often per belt rotation. Rubbed the grease on the other label and the noise disappeared completely.

    The mechie said with time the noise will go away on its own, but that he had seen this on numerous belts. Treating with belt dressing will help for a while, but the dressing doesn't stick to the painted label, so once is cleans off, back comes the chirp.

    Durndest thing I have seen in a long time.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Thank you - that's one sharp mechanic!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • 53jinx53jinx Posts: 6
    I just inherited a 1992 Plymouth Sundance. Since the day I got it I’ve been fighting a squeaky belt to my alternator. After messing with the tension I had it down to a tolerable level. However, after using some stop leak for my radiator, some of the fluid come out of the over flow dump and landed on the belt and the squeak was back. I decided to give belt dressing a shot. That was a mistake. It only got worse. I tried adjusting the tension some more, however it didn’t help.

    I decided to switch out belts. I read through the forums and based on others recommendations for noisy belts I decided to go with the Goodyear Gatorback or a Gates belt. I went to Pep Boys, and they didn’t have either. So I went to Napa and they pulled a “Napa” belt off the shelf. I was about to walk out when the guy showed me on the back of the label that Gates made their “Napa” label belt. I decided to give it a shot. I replaced the belt and the noise was cut by about 2/3, but still there. Then I read your blurb about the Silicone Grease on the label, and it worked like a charm. The only silicone grease I could find was “Danco Silicone Faucet Grease” at Home Depot, but it worked. Thanks for the advice!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Glad to help. It has to be one of the oddest noise producers I have ever seen.

    Jim
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,252
    I love solutions like this. You should write up a CarSpace Guide about it so the cure will get even more Google hits.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • sbalsanosbalsano Posts: 5
    Back in march the dealer repaired coolant leak from intake,replacing lower manifold and gasket. they also performed complete cooling system flush, 10 days later had to have it towed back because it started to blow hot from the a/c and temp gauge reading over heat.the dealer said i blew upper rad. hose,they replaced that. 6 weeks later same problem, this time i let it rest about 4 hours checked for leaks, it cooled and drove fine. i took it to another gm dealer, they could not find a thing wrong, they did pressure tests found no leaks, changed the thermostat just in case. now 10 days later same problem, i never had this before the first dealer visit. any ideas?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    It doesn't sound like quite the same problem but you may want to check this out: No Heat And Overheating

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You said a new thermostat but did you get a new radiator cap - the GM ones can clog and not work and the advised fix is buy a Stant one - when these clog expanding coolant cannot go into the overflow tank and then when cools be sucked back to rad or do not hold the 16lbs pressure so coolant boils at lower temp. 50% mix in coolant. Then also possible the radiator has many of the small tubes clogged that run thru it as the flush sometimes pulls the crap out of the heater core and block and it can then clog the radiator. Next would be water pump but said no leaks. Then fan clutch going. Is AC compressor good and not a big rpm drop or drag. The final thing that could cause is a leaking heat gasket if you got the engine really hot before the intake job and they can be pinhole size that reseal and only blow open at higher temps (with AC on) and dealer can pull plugs and look and run a compression test if it comes to that but these motors don't normally do this.

    For all - 3/36 or 3/50 on coolant change do not believe the Dex Cool 5/100 crap. At same time always a new thermostat and Stant cap.
  • can you clean the mas air flow sensor or dose it have to be replaced when bad ?
    thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If the wires or actual resistor embedded are damaged it has to be replaced but if only dirty take it out and spray off with MAF spray, electronic cleaner, or even brake cleaner but NOT carb that leaves residue. Keep a clean air filter in there too. Many MAFs get oil from an over oiled K&N filter.
  • Ok thank you
    i am thinking that is is a problem that is acuring becouse it was brining up a code and they checked it when they replaced the sylnoid and tranmission computer i still get a little hesitation so i am going to try and replace or clean this out first and if it dosnt help then take the car back to the shop on monday and get looked at agen
  • I did a similar swap into a 97 4x4 blazer and then drove it about 150,000 miles with no trouble the biggest hassle I had was integrating the original dash cluster if I were going to do it again I would find a later cluster and harness/ecm from a 4.3 blazer in a boneyard and it will just be a plug and play situation. Performance was great and it passed emissions in Illinois. Sadly rust took ove.Good luck
  • delk77delk77 Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Chevy Blazer. After I went muddin I went to the local watering hole to cool off with some suds and when I left the truck wouldnt start. It's definatley the starter. I removed the 2 bolts and the starter is loose but I cant remove the 2 wires or get the starter out. I need about an extra 1/4 inch of space. I also tried to remove it through the half flap in the wheel well with no joy. Can anyone tell me how to remove it soI can take it apart and clean it or replace it if I need to? I'm so lost.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The 4wd is a pain and after disconnecting the positive battery cable at the battery, as you did remove the 2 main starter bolts, then curse as you need 1/4" drive with extension and socket to get to the solenoid nut and then 3/8" drive for the positive cable nut both as the starter is angled at 45 degrees or so to manuever the sockets. Then when that fun is done the starter must be flipped 180 to get it to drop out the bottom rear - yes it just fits. Some jack the pass side of the motor up alittle but that can split the brittle rubber in the motor mount and those are a real pain to replace, drivers side worse.
  • Does anyone know how to adjust the idle for a 1993 Chevy Blazer 4WD?
  • rmizellrmizell Posts: 1
    Thanks man. I have been dabbling in cars for many years and would have never caught this one. I was starting to hear the noise in my sleep.
  • I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and when I first start it up and while I am idling it makes a chirping noise but once I give it the gas it seems to go away could this be my problem also? thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Very possible. Another source could be the bearing in the idler pulley, but checking the belt is easy. Just find the labels on the belt (remember, there are two locations) and put a little silicon grease or even liquid soap on them. If the sound changes, you have found your noise.

    BTW, the belt I put on that started this thread has finally shut up.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,252
    You don't mention how long you've been hearing the chirp, but it seems like the paint on the belt would wear off after a while and the chirp would go away on its own.

    Or maybe it's especially good quality paint that doesn't wear off? :confuse:

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Thanks for your help. I had the Idler pulley replace on 5-24-07 the serpentine belt that same day and the serpentine nelt tensioner on 2-22-07. I will be taking it in once again to have the chirping checked again . I have just over 92000 miles on my 1999 jimmy. I think it might be time to start looking for a new car.
  • thanks for your help I'll be having it checked :)
  • grose67grose67 Posts: 5
    I have a 95 Blazer withe the 4.3 Vortec Vin number "W". The fuel injection system is commonly reffered to as a spider.I don't know the proper term for it.Does this set up use a Mass Airflow Sensor? Where is it located? If it doesn't, what does it use and where is it located?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Take a look at this: MAF on 95 S10 Blazer

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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