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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
I am consolidating discussions related to those mysterious sounds and noises we all experience with our vehicles.

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Comments

  • jenrxrnjenrxrn Posts: 1
    I just had a new power steering pump and lines replaced, along with a flush of the system. My truck is now making a wheezing sound when I touch the gas pedal and turn. The mechanics say this is normal for "some" new pumps, and state it can last for up to 500 miles... is this true? and can anyhting be done about it... there were NO noises before it was replaced.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fluid level - sounds like its low so add to the proper fill line.
  • I have a clunking noise ,seems to be coming from right side front wheel area. It happens after you are fully stopped, when you go to accelerate you hear the clunk.Right wheel lower ball joint was changed, all others seemed tight. Mechanic checked out front end and could not find anything he thinks is worn enough to cause this clunk.
    There is also a buzzing noise coming from behind the instrument cluster panel. The gearshift indicator on cluster panel don't light up to show you what gear you are in .
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    GM has a bulletin 52-15-01 on this and it maybe as simple as adding a little cone shaped washer to the bolt where the hood hinges open - yes it shifts and clunks as the hood shifts. GM part #12383460 and you need 2, 1 for each side. To see if thats it open hood and insert small rag in hinge area between hood and fender, close carefully and test drive - no noise, add the washer. If not then check the brake calipers for sloop and grease the slide pins. If not that loose fender or door hinge pins, etc.
    Next, buzzing behind drivers side araea could be another simple one - the PCV vibrating and if your throttle cable has a broken plastic holddown at the rear of the intake it now hits the PCV and thats it - add a zip tie to the bracket and cable on the rear of the intake. If pass side could be the problem with the multifunction switch in the steering column and it makes the flasher and blinker relays vibrate behind the glove bow so when it happens if back there carefully bend the top left inside of glove box so it drops past the stop and look/feel/listen to the relays.
    Last, replace the bulb per your owners manual for the gears.
  • Last year I purchased a 98 Chevy Blazer. I like my truck. I liked it when the gas pump went (IN the car wash, timing was fabulous)... I still liked it when the starter went (drier this time, happened at work)... and I liked it until last Friday when I took it for its first inspection with its new owner, yours truly. My Blazer failed with flying colors, namely those of my face when I saw the estimate to get the magic sticker. I need an idler arm (87.00 semolians), and I need to replace the left front hub and bearing (357.00 semolians), plus a couple of hours of labor, all to the tune up of 625.00 USD. In addition, the back tires are oversized, and larger than the front tires, and I am told that this would destroy my 4WD if I used it (I haven't) and damage my transmission. Questions: 1) are the prices appropriate? 2) am I going to be looking at my left front tire speeding down the road without me if I don't get this repair done immediately? 3) I have been told both that the tire size difference may or may not wreck havoc if I dare to put the truck in 4 wheel drive. Which is it? Glad to get a couple of tires so all are the same size, but I want to make sure I must. I was asked 150.00 for the new tires. I welcome any advice you may have, as what I know about vehicles one can fit in a pinhead, :blush: but I do like my Blazer very much and would like to keep it. Sincerely and willing to learn,
    Kenagirl
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    87.00 semolians

    BTW, those are simoleons! :)

    tidester, host
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    98 so assume about 80-100k miles and yes thats normal for hubs (other will go within the next year I'd guess). Lower ball joints are also a know failure area (if held in with rivets original if bolts replacements), then the lower intake gasket leak by 100k and your coolant drops(flush every 3 years min and watch it - Dex cool does not last as they say) and get a Stant radiator cap and new thermostat if not done already. By the low 100s the fuel pump may get weak or fail and starting then running stops. Thats the big problems on all these. Normal items are brakes and alternators. That starter probably had a bad solenoid mounted on top of it (comes as one unit most places) and thta was probably not cheap either and 4wds are a pain to change (note to others that most auto electric shops that do alternators and starters mainly have a separate solenoid for these for $25).
    Finally, the 4 tires must match on a 4wd or you will eat the transfer case up when you go to 4wd - front driveshaft always turns on these and 4wd engages the pass side axle coupler. I use the original Uniroyals on mine and they are about $100 each and ride is better than many others unless you are going to Michelins.
    Good luck.
  • Just found out that the clunking noise was caused by a loose motor mount. I thought ball joint or wheel hub too. They have all been replaced before. My other problem was my engine blew a few weeks ago. Had a rebuilt in the truck. It blew because there is a problem with 4.3 engines. The intake manifolds leak,gaskets go bad.If the fluid leaks bad enough to mix in with the oil ,it will contaminate your engine. It is caused by the Dex-Cool they use in the engines. There are also several class action law suits out there about this problem. Chevy knows about thiese problems but refuses to do anythng about it. Chevy did my intake manifold about 8 months ago. I was told if they would have flushed the engine out better my engine might not have went bad. This problem destroys your lower end of the engine whipping out the bearings.There is a garage here that tells anyone with this problem that 7 out of 10 enginges with this problem . After getting the intake fixed usually still go bad. I have talked to several mechanics and they all know about this problem. I called Chevy about this ,but they don't want to know anything about it. I contacted one of the lawyers in the class action law suit,told them my story.
    Thanks for your input.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I,ve had a few bad ones too usually the drivers side rubber separates and when you are in drive and power brake the engine lifts up then that takes the other side out. Sounds like yours was loose bolts. Some of the intake replacements the guys are over torqueing the bolts and a GM bulletin on that destroying the lower crank bearings. 96up is 12 ft-lbs and all earlier was like 35 and if you do the 96up at 35 goodby engine. Ask your shop what they torque to! That lower intake leak has trashed lots of motors. Sorry, don't waste your energy on a lawsuit - will make you pissed off for nothing - GMs too big - only an opinion .
    All owners should fill the coolant reservior to the Hot full line when its cold and always look at it on a regular basis - as soon as a drop is seen (same temp each time) then check for a coolant leak.
  • 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4, gets a rythmic knocking sound while turning right, seems to come from the left tire. Don't get any sound at all turning left.

    Sound occured before changing upper and lower ball joints on both sides, new brake pads recently installed in the front (rotors good), neither the ball joints or brake pads have made any change in the noise.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the 1 piece hub - turn right pressure on left. Jack the front up under the lower control arm so the cv axle turns and turn the wheel and feel/listen for noise. Also at 1200 and 0600 (top and bottom) shake the wheel and feel for play and look to see if its the hub - look behind the cv axle at the hub bearing. Hub about $150-180 then you need an 18mm box end, and some time to do. My 01 went out at 90k.
  • I have the same noise. I tried jacking it up (both sides) and could not hear any grinding. I replaced the passenger side hub (that is where the noise sounded like it was coming from). The new one that I put on spun much more freely than the one I took off. However after putting the new one on, I still have the noise. Now when I turn the wheel to the left the noise goes away, however when turned right or straight the noise is loud. Does this mean the driver's side hub also needs to be changed?
  • Hard to pinpoint noises but yes, that would be common if turning and grinding. Is it grinding or clunking (lower ball joints clunk). Did you pull on the wheel (holding top and bottom)and see if any play - if so could be bearing/hub if steering not moving - you can look at the backside of the bearing by the CV axle and if it has play its bad. But, are the brakes/calipers/rotors OK - noise mostly when braking of course. As a standard best practice when one hub goes the other is close behind so I now do both - about $150-180 for Timco or BCA - stay away from any $100 bargin ones! Also a CV axle failing makes noise so see if the outer boots are ripped and grease all over flung around - you will see a mess of it. If all that isn't it check the U-joints on the drive shaft for play but usually over 100k before those fail.
  • Thank you... good thing I gave them a check...

    PS: Evidently Semolians are Mardi Gras Indian Warriors... just found that out... and now on to the cataclysmic converter lessons.

    Kenagirl
  • Thank you for your advise. I will be taking care of current repairs in about 3 weeks, and will be driving very slowly until then, as now the steering wheel begins to shake at 45mph (was 60...) However, both the starter and fuel pump are behaving. (The truck has 110K miles under its belts, so I will be adding the maintenance work you mentioned to the list of to do's as well...)
    Very much appreciated,
    Kenagirl of the right lane. :D
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    One good bit of trivia deserves another:

    The term "simoleon" was a slang term for dollars based on the name of a 17th century engraver, Simon, who designed the British sixpence coin (affectionately called "Simons" oddly enough!) combined with the name Napoleon. I don't think it was meant to be flattering but it was adopted and commonly used for some time.

    We now return to our regularly scheduled program ...! :)

    tidester, host
  • ravizraviz Posts: 1
    Triggerman, my '98 Blazer 4X4 is starting to do the EXACT same thing (clunking while turning right). Did you ever get
    to the bottom of this?
  • I also had this problem with a 97 Blazer and we found that the aftermarket lower ball joints had loosened off.It was just a matter of tightening the bolts back up.Once that was done a complete check on the front end confirmed everything else was serviceable.
  • 92 fullsize blazer pinging when I accelerate at 30 plus,replaced egr ,no check engine lite on,need help
    thanks
  • Been awhile for these with a 350 and TBI.
    All the vac lines and the vac actuator for the EGR work? Timing set right? Could be dirty pistons/valves or a clogged exhaust also.
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