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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

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  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, repairdog, here's one that has me stumped. '99, 2wd, 78K. Runs great, no performance issues or CEL.

    At 1600-1800 RPM under load, the engine has a light rattle-like sound coming from the front of the engine. Does not occur without a load. I have heard lots of sounds from engines but this is not one I have heard before. Can be sitting still (power brake in drive or reverse) and it isn't coming from the A/C. I figure the engine shifting on the mounts is maybe causing something to touch? Tranny line maybe???

    Ever hear this on one of yours?

    Thanks,

    Jim
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Should be the simple 3/8" drive racket or extension end - just the square end fits in the plug. Remove, and check with your finger fill till comes out with 80w-90 gear oil unless yours has been changed and is other type now. To drain need a suction gun or remove the rear cover, clean it off, new gasket and sealer, replace cover and fluid (about 2 qts). Again U-joints are more common above 100k miles, then if 4wd the transfer csae also has fluid and has 2 plugs so easy (3 button csae is red Dexron and 4 button is blue GM only syn fluid 2qts). Transmissions are normally red Dexron.
    The rear brake calipers do get hung up and the slides need greasing inside the brackets (have to pull off caliper, then pop the rubber boot off the bracket and pull slide bolts out,grease ,reinstall - this is a commonly missed procedure that causes the rears to drag and often eat one side of a rear rotor. Bigger bolts are 18mm not a standard size for most wrech or socket packages you buy but GM uses it alot!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes - 2 common areas:
    1. 99-01 have the secondary air injection system that includes a check valve on each exhaust manifold and they internally rust out and are spring loaded so look at them and the rubber L hose for burn out and if you tap on them and they rattle thats it. Valves are sold at all stores but hoses GM only. They always are rusted/frozen on so you have to remove the 2 small bolts on the exh and change the valve out of the vehicle in a vise or GM has the valve and pipe new so much quicker - no vise forget it.

    2. PCV rattle can also occur if you replaced with a cheap aftermarket or the throttle cable has a plastic mount on the rear drivers side of intake that breaks off, cable contacts PCV, noise occurs - zip tie the cable back in place all gone noise - silly but true - common after lower intake gasket done.
  • pgurganuspgurganus Posts: 12
    ok repair dog well i took out the plug and cannot feel fluid in there so i went and got 2 bottles of lucas 80w 90 and put in but still noise im thinking i wated too long and need to get the read rebuilt or can it b somthing else :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Thanks for the feedback. Looks like a rainy weekend ahead for us here in central Texas, so I will pull the little beast into the garage and see what I can find.

    Jim
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, I have been all over that little sucker, and there is no air pump, or valves or anything else in the way of plumbing on the exhaust. So, I checked the emissions label under the hood and it doesn't show one. This blazer was built in 2/99 and sold originally in Texas. Maybe that has something to do with not having the extra controls???

    A neighbor mechie heard me describing the noise and he said to check the heat shield on top of the cat. He has seen a couple of these where the spot welds that hold the shield on will pop loose and make a soft rattling sound when the exhaust system flexes under engine load. I will check that out this weekend.
  • pgurganuspgurganus Posts: 12
    ok i have come to the conclusion that the rearend is shot and will be locking up in a few miles....whats cheeper junkyard,getsomeone to put in,or get her rebuilt
    ..........
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Price a rebuild if you have a good drivetrain shop around. I went the other way on a half ton Chevy and found out later I could have had Austin Drivetrain rebuild for less than half what I paid.

    That, and you know what you have when you're done. Junkyard diff has no warranty.
  • leftfootleftfoot Posts: 3
    I have 95 :confuse: :lemon: that made a clunking from the drivers side front wheel, turns out that worn out control arm bushing was the cause, letting the wheel flop back and forth enough to make a noise when going over bumps or turning.
  • Hello. Hope all is well.
    I have a 2002 4wd Blazer 4x4 with about 80k on it. Truck runs very well.

    I am noticing a rattle in my dash when driving. Bumps or no bumps. It is not the hood spring washes cause I done fixed that. The rattle seems to come from the vents where the air blows out from defroster. When I put my hand lightly on the vent it stops.

    So tell me anything I can do? Or should I crank up the AC DC?

    By the way the last time I got really great advice.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    That vent cover is held in by metal clips. One may be off or someone dropped something down there. Also in the center is the sensor for the haedlight on/off auto feature also clipped on (from underneath). You have to be gentle or the cheap plastic vent will shatter but dealer sells new ones. Then there are many screws holding the lower plastic dash trim on and then the speakers also are screwed in. If its not those see if it there in recirc only when the fan runs open to the cabin (look behind the glove box) and some piece of junk/leaf dropped into it.
  • Wow. Thanks for the info. I am getting familiar with my blazer. So were are the metal clips you talk of? Can I access them from the top of the vent without taking off the whole dash?
    Also

    I do not see any screws for the lower plastic dash. How do I access them if I have to.

    I tightened up the speakers. I may have made them too tight. Can they be too tight.

    Do I have to take the glove box out to see that area behind it?

    Sorry for so many questions. This is my first blazer. I really love my truck just getting to know her.

    Lol.

    Thanks for your reply.

    Mike
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The ones down underneath that hold the lower extra plastic - kick panels. The clips are on the defrost plastic and have to pop it off to get to. As for overtightening only if you strip them out are they too tight. Glove box remove all contents and then reach behind the left side with it open half way and grab the box conrner and pull in to get past the stop then it just hangs open and swings all the way down.
  • I have an 88 full size blazer, and sometimes in 2Hi, I get noise in the front end (I can't describe it too well, but it sounds like something is rotating and one part of the something is striking something else). Usually, the noise won't start until about 20-25 mph, but has waited until as fast as 50 mph to start. After it starts, it does not stop until the car slows to about 5-10 mph, and the tranny loudly drops back to 1st gear. The odd thing is, if I shift to 4Hi, drive a short distance, and shift back to 2Hi, the noise quits altogether, and usually will not start again until the vehicle has beeen stopped for a while. Any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the auto hubs and make sure they are unlatching (have to backup after going back to 2wd). Then check the transfer case and front diff fluids, and the front driveshaft u-joints and the outer king pins (front axle joints). Have you greased the front wheel bearings.
  • blazer ran fine till I took it in for servicing. They replaced my distributure, and 2 motor mounts...NOW my gas pedal vibrates like hell....had it back in the shop 3 times, and they cant fix it...can anyone help??
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yep, the control arm or main A-arm bushings as well as the sway bars are all possible areas after 10 years. Good you have a smooth ride again. Lower ball joints remain the #1 cause on the 4wds.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    A new distributor should have smoothed out everything but my guess is the rear plastic for the cap screw broke off as thats a common defect on these - then the cap can't be secured back on and a rebuilt fixes that about $75 part.

    As for the vibration are you sure its the pedal or are you hearing a buzzing vibration and feeling it in the pedal - look at the PCV on drivers side valve cover and see if the throttle cable is against it - common as the rear plastic push pin breaks off so secure it to the upper intake with a zip tie and fixed. Or replace the PCV if its vibrating still.
  • Thanx for the input on the distributor, it did even out, as for the "Vibration" The Gas pedal, actually "flutters" or "pulsates" although I will investigate your PVC theory...any other thoughts will be appreciated..... :shades:
  • jagmajjagmaj Posts: 8
    I'm getting a metallic clicking sound that seems to come from my left front wheel area when I'm driving, except when I make a left turn. The clicking is rhythmic and gets faster the faster I drive, as though somethings hitting the wheel, but I can't see anything that's rubbing. The Blazer (a 1997) has sat up for a few months without being driven and it didn't make the noise before.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Is there any chance you have a stone stuck in your tire tread?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jagmajjagmaj Posts: 8
    I'll check, but it sounds like a metal on metal clicking.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    No rock or nail in the tire then check the brake pads and if low there is a metal clip called a squealer or indicator that conracts the rotor when the pad is almost gone. If not that check that the caliper slide bolts are greased. Then see if the meatl inserts that the pads slide on mounted in the caliper bracket are seated and the outside edge of the rotor is not conracting them (rust build up). If OK then check the front hubs - if it goes away when turning left then the right side is suspect. They will feel rough or grate if bad. If 4wd then there is also the CV axles so see if the boots ripped and grease coming out.
  • jagmajjagmaj Posts: 8
    Thanks-- that'll give me something to do this weekend. I'll post again with the results of my looking around.
  • jagmajjagmaj Posts: 8
    I pulled the wheels this weekend. The brake pads still have a lot of life left on them, but I relubed the caliper pins. After I put it all back together, the noise was much less. In fact now, the noise only happens during the first few seconds of acceleration and it doesn't seem quite as rhythmic-- more of a metallic rattle. Before, the clacking got worse as I gained speed and never went away except when I stopped or turned my steering wheel to the left. This tells me that your advice was close-- maybe I just need to do a better job of cleaning up my brake calipers.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sometimes the metal pad slide inserts get bent and contact the outside end of the rotor thats usually all rusty and can do that noise (spin and clean with a file or course sandpaper). Then don't forget to look at the rears cause they often sound like the fronts - so after you stop laughing and I'm not that dumb - look at them - my daughters was like that and she insisted front when in fact the rears were it.
  • scott79scott79 Posts: 1
    Hey guys i get a wet floor board in back passenger side. When the ac is on. This is a 2000 Blazer ls 4 door. Any hints thanks
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    It sounds like you have some condensation back there. You should post your question in the Chevrolet Trailblazer Maintenance and Repair topic so as not to confuse people looking for specific information.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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