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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

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  • I have a 2000 Blazer 2dr 2wd with about 162,000 miles on it. it has made the same noise for the past 30,000 miles or so and I've wondered as well what this could be. Did you determine the source of this problem? Since it is only under positive throttle, and seems to be louder at higher speeds, my thoughts lead me to think it is one of the rear bearings in the transmission or possibly the universal joints of the driveshaft. Transmission gear teeth from what I understand are angled and under stress i would think they would tend to push force down the axis of the shaft within the transmission, that makes sense to me as to why it only makes that noise with throttle and you can hear it stop and start in unison as you apply and stop throttling.

    Please tell me you have found a cheap solution to this issue. This truck is paid for, and i can't see putting a new transmission in it, so a cheap fix would make it worthwhile, otherwise, i'm shopping for a new SUV.
  • i have a 04 4x4 blazer, that has a roaring sound in the front right, it starts slowly and matches drivetran speed, sounds like a prop driven air plane? I have replaced the hub and check all u joints and ball joints. Its has 60K on it, the sound is at random, its stop when i slow to 25mpm. I have put the trans in (n) when it happens and it follows the drivetran speed til 25mpm and quits. Does anyone have a guess?
  • teekoteeko Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 chevy blazer. It has very little heat. i flushed the rad ,heater core and changed the thermostat. still no heat . Any ideas. Also growling kinda noise coming from what appears to be front right corner. It does it in 2wd and 4wd. Noise gets louder as the speed increases. Doesnt change if braking or turning.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    If the heater blower is blowing cold air when the heater is turned on and the engine is warm, it is a bad heater core. Thoroughly warm the engine and feel both heater hoses with your hand. Both hoses should be hot. If only one (heater core inlet) is hot, there is no flow through the heater core and it must be replaced. You may have thought you flushed the heater core thoroughly but engine coolant is still not flowing through it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If you have heat on both the feed and return to the core, the problem may be in the damper door under the dash. Search the maintenance and repair forums for heater issues and I believe you will find some info on what to look for.
  • I have a '00 S-10 blazer 4x2 w/4.3 vortec 4 speed auto trans. When I start it up in the morning it sounds like all the bearings are coming out of the block for about 5 secs. then it fades away in less than a sec. In cold weather it lasts up to 2 min. I am a mechanic of twenty years and never saw anything like it. All fluids have been changed on or before the recommended intervals religiously. If it were a bearing it would stay constant. Oil pressure is a constant @ 45psi (checked with my pressure tester). When under the vehicle the noise sounds like it's coming from behind the engine but infront of the trans. It only happens at start up the first time of the morning. What the heck is it? I am baffled! :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    That sounds like loose clearances in the main bearings and if it is more pronounced in the rear area, it is the rear main bearing. The rear main bearing receives the most load of all the main bearings. Usually if a cast iron crank breaks, it will always break at the rear main bearing journal. That is why the rear main bearing is usually wider for better load carrying capacity than the others and has larger main cap bolts with a higher torque requirement. After the engine sits for a period of time or long enough for the residual oil to drain out of the crank and from the looser bearing clearances, you may her bearing knock until oil is pumped up and reaches the bearings from the oil pan. When oil reaches the bearings the oil "floats" the crank and the bearing noise dimnishes. Oil pumps are rated to produce 50 lb. pressure above 800 - 1000 RPM, and when oil pump overcomes the wider bearing clearances then the oil pressure pressure remains high and constant. Higher viscosity oil may reduce the bearing noise but it will also slow the flow to the bearings and the crank will take longer to float in the oil.

    How is the oil pressure at idle (600 RPM) when the engine is at operating temperature? If it is less than 7 lb., that is evidence the bearings have loose clearances. Engine oil pressure before the engine is at operating temperature means nothing.
  • I doint know if this will give you any insite to your problem

    I have a 97 chev blazer that is making whirring type noise ( seems to be comming from front driverside undercarriage with some vibration felt on driverside floor board ; over the last two years I have relaced both halfshafts ( fron axels) twice, new rotors/brakes, new wheel bearings twice on driverside and once on passager side, new U joints in main rear drive shaft; idler arm, driverside ball joints twice; passenger side balljoints once, new tires twice, new shocks front and back, I have taken it in for tire balance numerous times; with all mechanics advice still makes noise but has gotton louder the last few weeks; now I am preparing to drop front diffential and rebuild with bearing/seal kit; hoever I dont feel to enthusiasic or remotely sure if this is the provlem. This doen't include all of the other non related repairs I have done; WHAT A LEMMON! I paid way too much for it in the first place and then the value has dropped I suppose due to the poor reputation; I have poured $1000-$2000 total into it for repairs and it is still hungry; on the possitive side at least I am getting a lot of excercise. maybe I should just push it off a cliff rather than try and sell it and give someone else the pains and edless pit of repairs and $. Lesson learned; never judge a car by it's cover.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer 4WD, 4WAL ABS brakes. I have the "ABS Blues" and it will cost about $800 to replace the EHCU (electro-hydraulic control unit) and bleed the 4-WAL ABS brakes. ABS brakes are the most stupid and useless feature that the federall government has made the automakers put on their cars. However, my Blazer is 18 years and is in such good condition with pefect paint, body, trim and acessories, and it would be a shame to junk it because of the brake problems. Even though the resale or trade-in value is next to nothing. The S-series vehicles are delecate, high maintenance and expensive to work on.

    The whine or noise from the floor is probably coming from the 4WD transfer case. The transmission fluid in the transfer case should be checked and replaced at 10,000 mile intervals, and sooner depending on the use of the 4WD . NEVER use 4WD on sand or pavement and always use the same size tires with equal tire pressure on front and back. Good traction on pavement and uneven traction in sand will put a higher load on the unit and invite premature failure, sometimes within a few miles! The area around the transfer case selector switch should be inspected for leaks. Even if there is no evidence of leaks , the vacuum line assembly should be disconnected from the selctor switch and inspected for transmission fluid inside the vacuum lines. In August 2004, GM had a part number change on defective 4WD 3-port selector switches used on the transfer case with a green inspection mark. . The OEM switch should be replaced with the new 3-port switch which is GM part number 89059420 with a blue inspection mark . This switch fits the transfer cases on 1991 - 2005 Chevrolet S-series vehicles with 4WD. The vacuum lines are 1.) engine vacuum 2.) vent port and 3.) actuator (servo) vacuum line. The acutuator (servo) is located under the battery and it too can be defective. First determine if vacuum is getting to the servo before unit is replaced.

    NOTE: When the fluid in the transfer case if changed, open the filler plug on the transfer case FIRST then open the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid. That is in case the fill plug is seized and cannot be opened. That will be rare but it is possible. Refill the transfer case with red Dextron III until transmission fluid it is at the filler plug level.The 1995-2005 S-series transfer cases should use green GM synthetic transmission fluid.
  • I have a feeling that's exactly what it is. Now it won't diminish at all. I think it will be time for a complete rebuild because I also now here a ticking noise in the top end too. It's a shame because it only has 125k on it and it wasn't driven hard at all since I bought it 3 yrs ago with only 54k. I just hope I didn't wipe out the crank too. I have and 89 motor I can steal the crank out of if I did. :sick:
  • teekoteeko Posts: 3
    How do you replace a heater core in a 2000 chevy blazer
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    You have to pull the dash apart. Major job. Do a search in the maintenance and repair on replacing heater core and you will find directions.
  • teekoteeko Posts: 3
    Thanks for youre info much appreciated. And yes dash is apart now ,wow big job alright.
  • I know when I had to replace the one in my wifes blazer, it wasn't hard but just very time consuming. And don't forget about the bolt down in the heater box under the hood. It's a pain to get to, but the interior box can't be removed without it removed first. Good ol' black RTV works good to seal the piece back in that you have to cut out. :)
  • The oil pressure in my first text is at normal operating temp. The oil pressure cold is around 50-55 lbs. Then it will fall to 45 lbs as the engine warms up. But now that the weather has turned colder, it has gotten worse. I'm just going to rebuild the complete bottom end, new crank, rods and mains, and a new oil pump. The motor has to come out to do anything to the bottom end. :sick:
  • my 95 blazer is making a loud humming sound when i drive it seems to be coming from the drivers side front possibly hub bearing/ how can i find out if it is this? it is very loud on freeway when i turn to the right it stops if it is the hub bearing is it an easy fix?
  • I have the same problem. The whirring started out lightly. Now it is very loud. I also feel some vibration under my feet (driver's side). I have had brakes replaced twice, serpenine belt, just replaced fuel filter for $900, new ball joints (my wheel actually fell off as I pulled in my sister's driveway), and a new alternator. I am a single woman and don't want to be stranded alongside a highway. Do you have any ideas what this is? Kat
  • bammonbammon Posts: 4
    Hi,
    Sounds like it might be your halfshaft/driveshaft since it stops making noise when turning steering wheel; not a easy fix but neither is the hub bearing replacement; this repair could cost $600 or more if you take in in; but if you replace it on your own ( if you have the right tools) it would cost you $150-$300 for a new driveshaft depending on where you purchase it.

    Thanks
  • bammonbammon Posts: 4
    The whirring sounds like it would be your front drive axle/halfshaft, but that is what I thought was wrong with mine until:
    On my 98 blazer I found out after replacing front drive axles, wheel bearings, 4x4 front differentail, ball joints, drive line universal joints etc. that it was still making noise and vibrating just as bad as before; I finally decided to remove the rear axles and found out the axle/wheel bearing had worn a deep grove in the rear axles; I purchased new rear axle shafts and bearings and installed them ( somewhat difficult process) and finally the problem was resolved; The vibration and noise was gone; I don't know if this is the problem with your blazer. I hope this helps

    Thanks
    Ammon
  • Is it expensive? I have put so much money in this thing. I feel like shooting it and putting it out of its misery....and mine, too!

    Kat
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