Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

1234568

Comments

  • py072888py072888 Posts: 4
    Ok i was reading your earlier posts and read something about a throttle cable. I noticed that my outer cable keeps popping off. This is my grandmothers car. When i say outer cable i mean one on passenger side of throttle control. i put it back on and pushed the clip in and it does not fall off anymore. I did this last night and she told me that when she started the car to go to work today it did not make the noise. i do not see how that clip not being on the cable could affect anything. This noise is pretty loud. sounds like an airplane propeller under the hood. i am going to rule out the blower as it does it whether the blower is on or off. I also realized that when i said it sounds like it is coming from passenger side i was sitting in the drivers seat so it could be middle of engine over. I am pretty handy with cars and have heard all kinds of noises but this one has me. car does not seem to run diffrently. but i want to fix it before it gets worse.

    And now for another problem.
    Grandfather has a 94 GMC Sonoma. 4.3L vortec. We rebuilt the motor about a year and a half ago. it had spun a bearing and we bought it that way. Replaced the crank and had rods cut and new bearings all around. New knock sensor. Lately he noticed that at low RPM's the motor shakes pretty rough. plug on knock sensor was broke so i replaced it. same problem. this motor has a balance shaft in it and i fear it is something to do with that. any ideas are greatly appreciated. if more info is needed please let me know. once highway speed is reached shake goes away as long as you are on throttle. if pedal is in only a little shake is at its worst. i believe timing is good. 12 degrees one way or the other i dont remember. will check it again tomorrow. is my timing off? what should it be? truck still has plenty of power. blows smoke and smells real rich. please help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Sounds more like an ignition or fuel problem than a balance shaft. Possibly a leaking fuel regulator or bad fuel spider assembly, hence the rough operation and smoking.
  • larisherelarishere Posts: 1
    I hear what sounds like a metallic rattling that seems to be coming from under the driver's side of my 2000 blazer. While on ramps I've shaken every possible thing I can find to grab hold of and can't find anything loose. A muffler shop told me that the inside of the catalytic converter is probably worn out and causing the noise. Could this be so and can it just be cut out or would running without the catalytic converter cause the engine to not run correctly.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Running without the converter could cause issues as this vehicle has a "closed loop" system for controlling the fuel injection. If the converter has come apart inside, it will sound something like marbles inside a coffee can.

    A good source for used parts, converters included, is an eBay store named "s10warehouse".

    I am in no way affiliated with these guys, other than having bought a LOT of used parts from them with very, very good service.
  • blazeoneblazeone Posts: 1
    just bought a new blazer and about 2 weeks ago it started squeaking sounded like the belt was loose so i replaced the tension pulley and the idler pulley started it up and no sound 1 day later the noise started again now it does it when i start it up but after a few minutes it stops when im sitting but start back up when i hit the gas and the more i push the gas it gets louder and dies down when i slowing down. any help would be great thank you
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Not dissing Gates, but their belt for this application is not good. When you can get it to squeal, try spraying a little silicone or belt dressing on the itensioner pully and see if the noise stops, even briefly. If it does, find a parts house that sells the Goodyear Gatorback belt and install it. See if the noise goes away. I fought this on a '99 model for two months before learning about this issue. Has something to do with the way the Gates cannot shed dirt/debris from the grooves in the belt, but the Goodyear has crosshatching in the grooves to help clear them.

    Haven't heard a peep in two years since changing the belt.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Try a Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt. I have a Gatorback on my 1991 S10 Blazer SUV and the belt and pulleys are quiet. I started to replace it with a AC Delco serpentine belt because i like my car to be ALL GM but after I looked at the wear indicator on the tensioner pulley bracket, I left the Gatorback on the engine. The good thing about the automatic tensioner is the wear indicator and you do not have to worry about over tightening or leaving the serpentine belt too loose. The serpentine belt will lose 10% of it's original installation tension within 1,000 miles. If you want a quick fix for a squeeking belt, spray some Armor All on the belt and let it dry about an hour before starting the engine. I tried that on one of my 1963 Pontiacs with a single V-belt and it was a permanent fix. I could have fixed the V-belt squeal by tightening the alternator over the limit and risk damage to to the bearing in the alternator or water pump.

    My Blazer has about 145,000 miles on it and the thermostatic controlled fan clutch which I think should be replaced even though it is not squeeking. That is because when the ambient temperature is over 95 degrees, the engine runs at 195 degrees but the engine temperature climbs to 200+ degrees when idling with the A/C on. I am not too concerned about the engine temperature but I feel like a new thremo-controlled fan clutch would keep the running and the idle temperature at 195 degrees.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,979
    I've heard that the cause of some Gates belts making noise is the paint they use to put their logo on the belt. It's raised just enough to cause a noise, at least until the paint wears off.

    The paint noise may be more rhythmic than what Blazeone is hearing though. The test, like you say, is to see if the noise goes away with some belt dressing.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I had to change the fan clutch on my '02 a couple of weeks ago. Same thing, at idle in high temps (it has been 100+ here for a couple of weeks) the temp was climbing up to around 225 or so. Now it doesn't make it to the 210 mark.

    The other clue was when starting out, no fan roar, which these little beasties are famous for.
  • c5nutc5nut Posts: 11
    I know this is an old thread but I have my truck in pieces and I'm getting desparate. I have a 2000 ZR2 and I replaced the outer seal on the front differential recently. The next day I went to check all my bolts etc to make sure all was tight (drove perfect) and found that I had torn the outer boot at some point. So I just got done taking the shaft back out and I have cut the old boot off. Now I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the outer CV joint apart to install the new boot. Tried banging the hell out of it to no avail. Any help would be appreciated!
  • richk28richk28 Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 S10 ZR2 with the same issue. After several months of ?? I figured it out while replacing the front brakes. There is a dust shield behind the caliper and near the hub it had a 4 to 5 inch crack. When Driving the wind/air flow would push the shield against the rotor making a metallic grinding sound. I tried to epoxy it with JB Weld as I did not have a welder handy. The JB Weld did not hold for more than a few weeks. I will weld it when I have a chance.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    I picked up a 1999 Blazer a few months ago. Engine is great shape, rebuilt. Needed some front suspension work. At 65-75 mph while driving on the highway sounds like I am driving in a prop jet. Makes a vibrating noise in the far back

    I should add I had to put new tires on it and are Goodyear RT/S. Not a quiet road tire.

    Just want to be sure this has nothing to do with wheel bearings. I was concerned one looked like it was leaking grease from a bad seal. Or are older blazers just loud
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    I notice when I initally back up ,after already in reverse, there is a loud click or pop in the back end. Not turn either direction, just straight back. Worn axel bearing?
  • bammonbammon Posts: 4
    After my experience of replacing practically on the front end of my 98 blazer I found out it was the rear axle bearings wearing into the rear axles;
    From what you describe it sounds like the problem may be your axle bearings.
    I hope this helps
    Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Check the rear u-joint. It is typical for them to both vibrate at speed, and make popping/snapping sounds when changing the direction of torque on the joint, such as moving from forward to reverse and vice-versa.

    Might want to look into this pretty quickly. If it is the u-joint and it is already vibrating/noisy/popping, it is not in good shape. Cheap fix if done before it completely lets go, expensive if it snaps while driving down the highway.

    good luck
  • That was exactly the problem. I replaced the front one as well. I really appreciate the help.

    The rest is advice for anyone doing this for the first time like me

    The front U-joint on a 1999 blazer was the same size as the rear. There was a different size listed for the front but on my blazer was way too small. The caps had a quarter inch of play. Plus the wrong size one had two outter clips. If you did not see outer clips on your present part, you use the same size as the back one.

    The fit for the front one leaves no room for error to get the clip to seat properly. Take your time and do a little each side. I did not have the clip seated firmly and ended up on the side of the road with drive shaft hanging. What a different in acceleration, both torque and a quiet ride.

    Still thinking of just checking the rear wheel bearings too but if you have a similar problem, this was a $30 repair and well worth every penny.

    Have fun trying to pound out the old joint. Take the whole shaft right out and put it in a vise. There were two brackets to unscrew in the back, the front section just slides right out. You do have to get the back section out first to be able to slide out the front. The back side seems wedged in there but will come out.

    Once the shaft is off the truck. I did not have to use heat, just a couple sockets. The sockets will get messed up so do not use expensive ones. Like many sites state you have to beat the p!ss out of them. they are not kidding. I used a 3lb sledge and what ever you think hard hitting is, triple it. I did spray some PB blaster and scored the outer area around the caps, plus remember to take the retaining clips out. Each U-joint had four and a couple looked like they were welded in place from build up but are not. Just a punch or screw driver, and a hammer will tap them out.

    When installing the new ones. You still need a socket to pound them in and alternate sides doing a few gentler hits, I cracked a bearing cap hitting it directly, probably contribute to my break down. I did not have to take the clips off while under the car. A screw driver and rubber mallet helped pull them off. The rubber mallet was nice to knock them back on without smashing my fingers.

    Also when you take out the old ones take the time to clean out the inner ring of the holes. There was lots of built up of something in there.

    Hope these tips help any one doing this the first time like me go smoother. I am just a DIY guy learning as I go.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    That appears to be a tough job for a part-timer that would be best left to a auto repair shop that has a hydraulic press. Sorting out the different U-joints is quite a task also. I am not sure I would trust a shop to finding the correct U-joint because they deal with so many different vehicles and don't have the time to research the U-joint choices like you would. The difficult part is finding a auto repair shop with a hydraulic press that will use the U-joints that you furnish. That of course will void any guarantee and would give the car repair shop a free hand to do sloppy work.

    The build up you noticed in the groove is plastic that the factory uses to hold the U-joint in place. When you drive the U-joint out it destroys the plastic.

    I am a long time enemy of car repair shops because an honest car repair shop will go broke. There is so much competition and so small of a profit margin in the car repair business that car repair shops must cheat customers in order to to stay in business. Another method used to increase profits is using inferior off-shore parts and charging premium prices for them. That is not exactly cheating customers but it is unethical. It is always best to do the job your self and use the best parts available.

    Examples of the seven different ACDelco U-joints that are used on a 1999 Blazer:
    45U-0109
    45U-0110
    45U-0123
    45U-0136
    45U-0131
    45U-0103
    45U-0108

    There is a specific application for each of those U-joints or they would not have different part numbers.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    *Some* parts houses have a press, and you can have the u-joint pressed in after purchase. We used to do this for u-joints, axle bearings, stuff like that. One other thing you need to watch out for is losing tranny fluid while the driveshaft is removed. I recommend putting the rear axle up on jack stands and leaving the front on the ground. Not only do you have to remove the driveshaft from the rear, it helps keep the tranny fluid away from the output shaft extension (where the driveshaft yoke goes in at the front) and less likely to leak out onto the floor.

    Congratulations on a successful repair!

    Also, look in the rear disc area for oil leakage. You mentioned that there might be a seal leaking. This is a repair that is also a lot easier than you think. I won't go into all the detail here, because pictures are very helpful. But this is really no more than a one hour job if you have done it before, and maybe two if you haven't. You will need a helper, though, because to get the rear axle out of the housing, someone has to push in on the axle shaft outer flange, while someone removes the "C" clip on the differential end. I had my 12 yo son help me on the first one we did. Be prepared, the diff grease from the factory is some of the nastiest smelling stuff you will come across, and wear clothes you don't mind throwing away! It takes three or four washings to get that odor out. When reassembling, use synthetic. No odor. :)
  • just reading through...maybe its mentioned or solved but it sounds to me that the shake is just a really low idle caused by a tps iac or maf other than that.. beats me?
  • once again, just answering as i read down through. cat converter will do nothing of what you say, it will kill O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (in converter) and mpg will drop badly and with a 4.3 you cant afford to get worse on gas...lol
Sign In or Register to comment.