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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds



  • had that problem, replaced tensioner(which was shot anyway) along with a new belt. it appeared to me that the noise was coming from the clutch fan... never bothered with it and just put up with the squeak. had the blazer for another 30k and nothing got worse
  • just reading through and thought id add... a bad or loose u-joint will vibrate like hell and when stopped, going reverse drive reverse drive will give you a distinct CLINK if u-joint is bad
  • My blazer has been having problems getting up hills (it bogs down) and I don't think it going to get me up the hills. It rattles and sounds like it is giving it all it has. In traffic the fastest I can go is 50 mph and that is with a hill giving me speed. It is vibrating now and stops vibrating only when I hit the gas and there is a smell that smells like something has burnt.

    Since the O-2 sensors did not work in fixing this problem do you guys have any suggestions?
  • dart09dart09 Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Blazer LS 4X4 -- 159,000 miles (I know, woe is me). lol. Anyways, I have a rubbing noise that starts when the vehicle moves and seems to go away for the most part as I get up to highway speeds. It is more noticeable at low speeds. At first it sounded like it was coming from the right rear. I put it up on jack stands and the noise then seemed to be coming from inside the differential. I checked the pinion by hand for play and there is none. I then took the dif cover off and discovered someone had drilled a hole near the top center of it apparently so they could add fluid there? It had a black plastic plug in it. Yikes! Who worked on this thing before I bought it? Curly or Moe?

    I've put in new front hub bearings, new u-joints on the rear drive shaft, new rear wheel bearings and seals and new rear brake calipers and disc pads -- the back plates are rusted away making the rotors visible on both back wheels. Will it hurt to leave the rusted away backplates as is? I also installed a new rotor on the right rear and had the other three rotors turned. There are no broken belts in the tires. When I changed the rear wheel bearings I didn't see any metal shavings from the spiders or from the pinion gear. There were no broken teeth on any of the gears. I also noted at the time that there were two shims on each of the spider gears. Does that sound right? It is a GU6 / 3.42 rear.

    I am at a loss as to what is causing the rubbing noise and would greatly appreciate any help I can get on this. Thanks in advance!
  • I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer 4X4 and when i hit 45-55 mph i get a horrible growl/rumble (sound and feels like you hit the caution rumble strip on the road) from somewhere in the drivetrain. i have replaced the rear end barrings, took out the front drive shaft, replace the 4x4 drive vacuum pod. The problem didn't start till i put the new tire on it (goodyear ranglers). The issue only last for 3-4 second but it reacurres ever 30 second or so. If you speed up or slow down the sound/feeling goes away. If anyone has had or know what may be wrong with it I would greatly appreciate some advice because i am totally stumped. i have look over everything i can think of.
  • I hate to tell you this but it is probably your tires causing this noise. I had a similar experience when I purchased new Goodyear Wranglers. I learned that there are many different tire designs all under the Wrangler name. The tire store had put on an All-Terrain design on. Anyhow, I didn't even make it home on these new tires as the noise was so objectionable.

    I had the tire store pull the Wranglers off and put Toyo tires on instead and they ride nice and quiet. Hope this helps.
  • I have the same problem, except the growling sound is coming from the front end. When I engage the 4WD, the sound goes away. Any luck figuring it out?
  • drashmoredrashmore Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    Have knocking noise coming from rear end at startup. Only lasts seconds. Then may not hear it for a while. What could this be?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Perhaps a loose tail pipe?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • traylwptraylwp Posts: 1

    Did you every figure out what the buzzing noise was? I have the same problem with my blazer and it is driving me crazy.
  • wrightbrowrightbro Posts: 1
    Just bought 02 Blazer. It had over heated. Mechanic replaced heads, sensors, etc. He said the pistons and walls looked good. I still have a loud tapping noise when accelerating, cold & warm. Less noise with higher rpm. Quiets while deceleration. Mechanic said there was Tech Service Report that said "Some Blazers had pistons installed backwards to try to increase compression. And this was causing the noise." Anyone heard of such a story? He said compression is good in all cylinders. Any other sources of the noise? Much appreciated.
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    1st noise) a whining growl (or growling whine) on acceleration...not always, and seldom above about 35. Torque converter? 2nd noise) possibly related to ist noise? the vehicle "shakes" starting at about 62 mpoh. does NOT shake the steering wheel. have checked u-joints/axle bearings, and they are fine. it does not shake, shimmy, or anything else below 60 mph.
    related? separate? help??? :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2012
    It is probably the tires and alignment. However, that may be a job for the $90 diagnostic fee. If you pay the diagnostic fee and they work on it and it does not fix the problem, they must continued to work on the problem until it is fixed. At least that is the way it is supposed to work.
    S10 vehicle problems are really difficult to diagnose so before they offer to diagnose and fix the problem, they may tell you: "Take it somewhere else".

    That actually happened to me when I had ABS brake problems. The ABS modulator is not serviceable and a rebuilt unit costs $800, if you can find one. The repair shop service manager looked me up and down and made the determination that I could not afford a $1000 repair bill on a 1991 S10 Blazer that is not worth $2000 on the open market. So I received the "Take it somewhere else" routine or what people used to call "The bum's rush"

    I later determined that we do not need the ABS system and your brakes will work just fine without ABS. The difficult part is bleeding the system with ABS. Bleeding the brakes system along with the ABS modulator is an all day job for two people if you don't have a $400 GM Tech 1 Scan Tool to cycle the ABS as you purge the air out of the modulator. If you don't get all the air out of the ABS modulator, yoiu will have soft brakes or no brakes at all. We managed to get the air out of the ABS modulator but it took all day. I will never know the ABS brakes do not work until I jump on the brakes on icey or wet roads. The ABS on my 1994 Ford F150 pick up has not worked in about 12 years. It is not a requirement that the vehicle has a working ABS system in order to pass state safety and emissions inspection.

    The GM Tech 1 scan tools have been unavailable for several years and finding a good used on one for $400 e-bay is a crap shoot. .
  • lion437lion437 Posts: 2
    i have a 2001 Blazer which has under dash noise like turn indicator relay is constantly clicking, but signals are not on. All lights working, no bulbs burned out, etc. What does this indicate could be wrong?
  • Can anyone tell me what would cause my rear tires to lock up and put me in a skid while driving down the highway? I suspect its the drive train but I'm being told it could possibly be the brakes.. I am a single mother and don't really know much about this, all I know is that I was scared to death and I don't want to get back into the truck until I know for sure it's fixed... and don't want to get ripped off ( like I allllllways do) at the repair shop. I need help! Thanks :)
  • Its a 2002, sorry. I forgot to include that. ;)
  • There is a humming noise in my 1999 blazer. As soon as I start moving at about 15mph or so you hear the noise. It is really loud at about 45-55mph. Even when you do about 35mph and then let off the gas to coast down you'll hear it loud and clear. I'm thinking its either the Transfer Case or Rear Differential. Any advice will help
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