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Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling



  • lincoln84lincoln84 Posts: 1
    I have a 1984 lincoln towncar, signature series. I have problem with my airconditioner. when I start up a hill and put stress on the engine, my airconditioner turn to heat. can anyone tell me what to do to solve the problem. I would appreciate all any information I can get.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Can't say for sure, but I had a similar problem on an 1987 Caprice. Tried all kinds of stuff and burnt up a couple of AC compressors along the way. Finally, after having the AC compressor go out whilst crossing the Everglades, I had everything replaced new, but it kept on doing the same thing. When it was being tested by the guys at the shop they noticed that the fan would lope whenever the engine was revved. The viscous fan clutch was shot. This was keeping the engine fan from turning at high speeds or under quick revs (e.g. downshifts), which caused the engine to overheat, and also the AC not to cool.

    Just a thought.

  • 94tcar94tcar Posts: 1
    hey guys i seized my ac compressor and now i just want to bypass it what should i do for the belt i know its 75 inches that i need but will i be able to just purchase any size belt? or is there a quick and easy way to go about that
  • ridehogridehog Posts: 2
    Dilbert I asked the dealer about it. The service writer told me that the blender doors reset themselves back to a default position when the car is turned off so the a/c does not blow hot air when the car is started in warm weather. Might be BS but he explained that's what the groaning is all about. He said most of them do it. I've driven it another 7,000 miles and it's not any better or worse. I still have a few thousand on the factory warranty and it's a tossup to let it go the way it is, or let someone take the dashboard apart in an attempt to quiet the noise, and then live with the squeaks and groans that will no doubt bring. I just live with it so far. I've moved to another city and may have the new/;local dealer take a look at it. If I do I will post on here.
  • flb_37714flb_37714 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 towncar when i turn the climate control oin auto it the blower will only work if set @ 60 degrees or if i manually turn the blower switch to high any ideas on where to start
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Posts: 57
    If your blower only works on high the problem is that the variable resistor is burned out. I have had this problem on several vehicles and it is a relatively easy and inexpensive repair. I do not know the location of the resistor in the Town Car but in many vehicles it is behind the glove box.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    The blower resistor is located under the hood, on the fire wall, on the passenger side of the car. Lincoln/Ford has redesigned this resistor and it requires that the wires be cut to install the new resistor. If you live near one of those "Pull Your Own Part" salvage yards I recommend getting one off of a junked car. The repalcement in this case is a snap-off snap-on fix.
  • bbuisbbuis Posts: 2
    Hey All,
    Today my father arrived home and stated that this morning as he was leaving for work his fan stopped blowing while putting his car into reverse. It has not came back on for the rest of the day. When i turn a/c on you can hear vents open but no matter what setting the fan is on it will not blow. What to do, What to do?? Its 90+ right now and really don't want my father driving around with no a/c. PLEASE HELP!!
  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    Before buying a kit to seal and refill the ac system on a 91 lincoln town car is there a way to check if it's not the freon that has leaked out. That the compressor is not recieving an electric start signal for the clutch to kick in or if the compressor is not working. Will the obd-1 tell me what's the story with the a/c. If yes how do I read the a/c code on this car without a scanner. A scanner cost about $35. I'll get one if I have to. Also the coolant resevoir is all the way down to the bottom, but the temp guage reads ok. Can I just add water to fill it up to the fill line or should it be antifreeze. Will that help to cool the vent air which is warmer than the outside air. Is there a way to test if the compressor still works without filling the system all the way with freon. The floor vent has no response, but the ac, vent, floor/def, and def all work? The a/c blows warm air and when I first tried it this year the max a/c worked (warm air)at a higher rate but then after a few minutes and now it only works at the same rate as the a/c?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    You may have to take the car to an A/C auto tech to get it working properly. If the compressor is not working it may mean that the low pressure switch has kicked in. An engine code scan insturment for that model will not help with the A/C. R12 refrigerant was initially used in that car and now cars are using 134A. It is always good to keep the engine coolant at the proper level, but in your case it will not cause the A/C to cool the car.
  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    Thanks for your help.

    I want to avoid having to take the car to an a/c shop because, I just spent alot of $ ( the full resale value of the car ) for, towing, electrical diagnosis and the replacing of a major electrical part ( the engine was turning over fine but there was no response from the engine for starting ) and a full tune up.

    I found out afterwards that there are no adjustments on this car with a full tune-up. I could have easily done the tune-up myself.

    I pressed in the freon loading pin ( it looks like a tire air valve ) and there was no release of freon, so it seems that all the freon is gone from a leak in the a/c system. I found a replacement for the r-12. It's called freeze12.

    They say it's 100% environmentally safe and it's approved by the EPA as totally legit and legal and it cost alot less than r-12. They also say it works very well.

    What's the likely a/c area where the freon leaked out? With no freon in the a/c system the compressor won't turn on and that's what set off the low pressure switch, right?

    For $50 with shipping, you can get their Freeze12 ( r-12 replacement ) a/c refill kit. It has 36 oz of freeze12, 2 oz of oil, 2 oz of leak sealant, conversion filler valve and hose, and pressure guage. The Town Car takes 40 oz.

    They also have a major leak sealant for $20 more. I am hoping that the regular sealant will be enough.

    They also say that you can simply add the freeze12 to the system with no other preparations because freeze12 is so compatible with r-12.

    Where is the low pressure switch so I can reset it or does the low pressure switch reset itself when I fill the system with freon.

    Will the 2 oz of sealer do the trick so the freon stays in the a/c system?

    Should I add more than 2 oz of sealer or 2oz of oil for a better running a/c? You can buy extra 2 oz cans of oil or sealer for $5 each.

    Do you recommend the freeze12 major leak sealer which sounds very good and it seals leaks in metal too. Could the compressor be one of the areas where the freon leaked out?

    I was referring to the regular ( not the a/c ) vent air temperature being cooler by adding water to the very low coolant reservoir.
  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    Is there a way to test that the compressor works ok before filling the system with the whole kit? I wouldn't want to waste parts of the kit if the compressor is not ok.

    Would just 1 or 2, 12 oz cans of freon without the oil or sealer give enough system pressure just to test that the compressor does work or goes on? You can buy the freeze 12 in single 12 oz cans for around $5 each.

    What are the different ways that the compressor won't work; clutch, electrical short, a leak, etc?

    I have read here and there about adjusting the air gap if the clutch is not kicking in.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    You will have to find the leak or leaks in your systems. I am not familiar with Freeze 12. At the auto parts store, you should be able to buy a product with a color agent which you put into your system. After the system is pressureized, the color agent will leak out in the area where the system has failed. You can override the low pressure switch by disconnecting it and placeing a small wire in the contacts at the wire end of the connector. Since the system has to have oil in it as well as freon I would not run the compressor for more that a few minutes at a time with the wire in the connector. It has been my experience that most leaks in the 91 Town Car A/C system are at the compression seal fittings in the tubing and at the compressor. The compression seal fitting areas are oily and the area behind the clutch on the compressor is oily when they are leaking. I believe that your best bet is an A/C tech. Do you have the tools to work on the system? For example: tools to seperate the compression connectors, a vacum pump, pressure gages, etc.
  • I am trying to get the answer to question number 30. I am having the same problem but can't find the answer?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    Check the electrical connection to the motor. There are several other items that you have to check. Check the A/C blower fuse under the dash, there is a A/C relay that you have to check under the hood and then there is a A/C motor resistor under the hood.
  • I inherited a 93 Lincoln Towncar Signature series. The A/C would only work on high then it started blowing out the dash and floor vents when you accelerated but would go back to the vents when you slowed down. Now the A/C will not blow out the vents at all, it will only blow out on the dash and floor vents. I replaced the A/C heater control and it blew out the vents for about 5 minutes then started blowing out the dash and floor vents again. Any suggestions?
  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    I've never worked on an auto a/c system.
    I'll be checking those a/c tools out.
    I'll figure out where the low pressure switch is. Would one 12oz can of freon be enough to do the color leak test for a few minutes at a time? How much time in between the 3 minute testing to be safe for the compressor? I will be checking out the areas you mentioned for the leaks. Would those areas still show signs of oil or would they be dried out by now? This is the best ? What % of any leak or the ones that you mentioned, be sealed by regular leak sealer? Does the sealer work? Would it be ok to add 2 cans of regular leak sealer to the system and would it do a better job than adding only 1 can of sealer. To what degree can a/c leaks be sealed with a/c leak sealer additives. Have you used them, have they ever worked? Is there a kind that works the best? They say that Freeze12 is very compatible with r-12 so you don't have to do alot of the prep that's needed when changing from r-12 to r-144. I haven't gotten the Freeze12 kit yet. I'm sure there is some prep, but maybe not much, other than to add the 1 can of 12oz freon, 1 can of 2oz sealer, 1 can of 2oz oil, and more freon to 40 oz. system pressure, as it says on there website. They also sell an optional heavy leak sealer to add into the system, that they say will seal larger leaks in rubber, plastic, metal, etc. But it's expensive. What is the vacuum pump needed for? Is that used to increase the system to working pressure using air instead of freon for leak testing, and for evacuating the system? You have helped alot so far on this subject.
  • Hey paulw3, i had to change the ?blower motor resistor? << i believe that's the proper name lol !! That fixed the problem Good Luck!!
  • I have a 2001 town car. My a/c clutch was engaging too often.Went to a/c shop,no leaks,recharged system,lots of cold air,a/c clutch still engaging too often. Causes the engine rpms to increase while engaging. Replaced a/c clutch relay fuse with no results. Any suggestions to my problem?
  • Is the ac blower, around $70. relaced that on mine about three times already. my car is a 98 with 340,000 miles
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