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Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling



  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Posts: 3
    I had my ac filled and after shutting the car off the AC wont blow cold untill 8-10 minutes pass. he thinks there might be a sensor in the dash area or in back of the radio that might need canging. Any thoughts or fixes would be a great help. Thakl You.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 116
    I as told that Lincoln did not want to blow hot air out until it as cooler before blowing any air. Same on the heater. I usually rolled my windows don hill driving to help it work faster. Maybe I was being fed a line but that is the mine works in a 2002.
  • Can anyone school me on how to change the plugs on my '05 Town Car? I looked at it and it doesn't look at all like plugs changes I have done on other cars. The plugs seem to have an electrical "clip" atop a plug tower, which seems wedged under what looks like the fuel rail for the injectors. Is changing the plugs on this care really this complicated? Is it a DIY or do I actually need to take it to a mechanic? Please advise. Thanks to all who respond to this shade tree mech.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    What you see is "coil on plug" technology, which Ford embraced in the 90's, and other manufacturers have done the same, however, GM and Chrysler lag behind, still producing some cars with plug wires.

    This new technology provides a small coil for every plug, located on top of it. They must be removed first, to get to the plug. Very efficient, no leakage of voltage from wires, no radio interference. More expensive though, and harder to tune up. How many miles do you have on the car? The plugs will last an easy 100,000 miles.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Just did this on my 99 TC. One of the things you should probably do is replace the coils if you're going to the trouble to change the plugs. You can buy a complete coil set (8) on ebay for less than $80 shipped. Dealer price will be about $90/each. Another thing to look for is if you have any oil around the plug boots when you pull 'em off, you should go ahead and change the valve cover gaskets. If you don't the oil will eventually foul the coils and cause the engine to miss pretty bad even if the plugs are brand new. Ask me how I know.... ;-( If it's missing now, you may already have that problem. Changing the valve cover gaskets is not as easy as you might think. I'm a gear head and opted to have the valve cover gaskets done at the local Pep Boys. $400 labor and about $90 for the gaskets (they're not cheap).
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,320
    That the plugs go for 100,000, I choose to take it to my mechanic who has the correct tools to do the job correctly. If you already have the tools, fine, but subtract the cost of the tools from the mechanics fee and he looks like the choice to change. He also will be observant to find other possible areas that need attention i.e. valve cover gaskets and so on. Also, his work is guarenteed. Who guarentees your work? ;)
  • mileage is 94k, which is why I am considering the maintenance. It idles just a bit rough when cold but smooths out when engines warms. So, is this something a non-techy can do or should shy away from??? thanks for the help!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    So, is this something a non-techy can do or should shy away from???

    I'm a fair mechanic, and I wouldn't even try to do it.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    You can do the plugs if you have the spark plug wrench (common) and a wratchet with extension. When I put the plugs back in I use put a rubber hose over the spark plug and get each one started that way by hand then torque them with a wratchet or torque wrench. You don't need special tools to do the plugs, but a torque wrench is recommended. You don't need any special tools (assuming you have a metric tool kit) to do the valve cover gaskets either, it's just that if you follow the shop manual suggestions you have to take alot of stuff off. I think if you look on you can find detailed instructions. If you don't want the expense of factory coils buy the coils on ebay QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1999Q7cMakeQ3aLincolnQ7cModelQ3aTownQ20CarQQhashZite- m4157108ff2QQitemZ280633577458QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories. Each coil has a plug that clips on and one little bolt that holds them down. After you loosen them up you can usually work then off the plugs. You can do that, just take your time. Now if ANY of the spark plugs shows any exterior oil or on the coil boots (sign of valve cover oil seepage), you should go ahead and have the valve cover gaskets changed. I'd recommend taking it to a shop. As I said before, I bought the coils (already had changed the plugs) and took my car to Pep boys. They will do the valve cover job for about $450 including the gaskets. It's not a difficult job, it just takes some time since you just have to take off a bunch of stuff including the windshield wipers and loosen the brake booster (according to the shop manual) to get to the rear valve cover bolts. After changing the plugs, the coils and the valve cover gaskets my 99 runs great.
  • wjbeanwjbean Posts: 1
    Actually the compressor will start "pumping" when there's enough pressure in the system. This typically requires one standard sized (12oz) can of freon, not an entire kit. There is a small amount of compressor oil in every can of freon.

    The compressor won't work if there's a blown fuse, electrical short or open, not enough freon in the system or if the AC computer is somehow not working.
  • Where can I purchase a climate control panel for a/c & heater which sits on the dashboard?
  • My 96 has the same problem.The A/C auto mode works occasionally,heat never on auto.What's the fix??New unit?
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    edited June 2011
    Sounds like you need the blower motor resistor. I had the same issue where the fan would run/not run on A/C. I replaced the Blower Motor Resistor. -
  • I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car, Cartier addition with 108,000 mi. I had the a/c on and have noticed no airflow through the vents when the climate control was set at automatic or maximum. However, I could hear the blower working strong.
    I went online and read many forums, including this one, and most of the answers relating to this problem involved checking or replacing the blend door actuator, or a blower motor resistor. I never heard any clicking noise under the dash that's normally heard if one goes bad. I looked at my Haynes manual, but it didn't give much info. I found videos on you tube to give me ideas where to start.

    One video showed the removal and replacement of the actuator just behind the glove compartment of a Ford Explorer, so I removed the glove box in my Lincoln. I didn't find the actuator per say, thinking I was going to have to remove the dashboard to find it.

    What I found was that my glove compartment was overflowing with junk such as napkins, service invoices, etc. The main problems was all the small garbage bags that we kept in there for long trips. With the glove box so full, the paper and plastic bags went over the back wall of the glove box and got sucked into what I assume is the cabin air filter. It's a foam door that opens up when the a/c is on, and was totally blocked with junk.

    I was almost ready to go to the auto parts store and spend some money prior to finding this. I cleared all the junk out and now keep a very minimum of necessities in the glove box and the air flow is fine.

    I know I was lucky and that most people genuinely have something wrong with their a/c, but by unhooking the straps that keep the glove box from falling to the floor and looking behind it saved me money and a lot of time.

    Once in awhile, it can be a very subtle thing that can cause so much trouble, with a very easy solution.
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Posts: 29
    edited July 2011
    05 town car ac usually works great the first time I turn it on each day; it really cools down as it should on AUTO. Then, after I stop somewhere and it sits for awhile, it doesn't cool as quickly the next time I engage the ac. I have heard about blend door actuator problems and this may be it, but how do I know? i suspect it because it just seems that the air coming out is blended with warmer air. however, it may be something different, because in looking around under the dash for anything that might be an obvious problem, I've noticed the aluminum pipes(?) under there are so hot I can't ouch them...this doesn't sound right. At the very least those suckers are giving off a lot of heat. What are they and why are they so hot. Although I haven't c checked them before i use the ac first thing each morning, I know they can't possibly be hot. Please, anyone, can you help me? With each day over 100 degrees here in Oklahoma, and no job, I need to fix this at least cost possible.
  • myke500myke500 Posts: 6
    I was able to find qute a bit of resources through and to identify where the bda is at and how to get to it. Quite a project requireing 2 persons, and several hours. It is hard to see, but can be viewed from the glove box by looking up and to the left. But the dash must come out to get to it.
  • Two years ago bought a good souhern 1997 Lincoln town car and air worked. Being it is a winter car in Florida, the air was not used much and last year when I started the car, the air did not work. Did take it to a shop advertising free diagnoses and they said the compresser was shot so I left it be because that did not make sense. Then I saw a troubleshooting program where a car (in this case it was a Jeep) that was taken to four different shops and only two of them diagnosed the problem with the air in this vehicle......was a relay (looked like a fuse) found in a box in the engine compartment.....relay was to send a signal to the system so the clutch would engage..........well, then I wonder if that might be my issue. I found a box that has markings for air relay but not sure how this box opens or how you access it to see if the relay it good or bad. Anyone have any thoughts on this and how I might check it out; would very much appreciate some good feedback.......would be something if that is all it was.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Yes there is a relay just behind the passengerv side valve cover. Hard to get to but it can be done. They are known for going bad. Mine is bad right now. It comes and goes.
  • Hi John:

    I have a 1996 Town car. I have the same problem w/the blender/actuator door leaking on the passenger floor and NO HEAT. I LIVE IN BLIZZARD TERRITORY. After almost 2 years, PLEASE tell me you now know how to get the dash out? My mechanic is starting to put the screws back in and giving up. LOL :sick: I'M having so much trouble w/this. My mechanic DIED in the middle of repairing it. My 2nd mechanic's father died. We buried him this past Tuesday. HELP
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