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Buick Regal Problem

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Comments

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Service says the bolts on the oil pan were loose and that should do it. Okay, so how did this get past quality control. Should not happen on a car with 700 niles!
  • After driveing car, and when parked it leaks coo lent. Shouldent a water pump last longer? I only have 25k miles on car
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Could be hoses crakced or simply loose.
  • stimpsjdstimpsjd Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Buick Regal 2dr., 3800 V6, 54000 miles. Only non-scheduled repair has been a transmission cooling line.

    For the past few weeks I have noticed on the overdrive shift that the engine increases in RPM's (about 300) and then drops to the next gear. I haven't seen this with any other shifts, just this one. Do I have a problem here or is this normal? I may have become more conscious of this recently but to me it just seemed weird. Is this the torque converter not locking up?
  • Hello all,
    I purchase a used 1994 Buick Regal last August and it now has 80000 miles on it. It has the 3800. I was wondering if anyone had any performance improvements I can make to the engine and/or other parts. Ultimately to produce improved power and gas mileage if possible. I would really like to see improved power. If you could also direct me to some instructions or parts that I may need. I really have no complaints except for the ac compressor is shot and making a lot of noice but I am getting that replaced. Thank you for any improvements...
  • I am desperate.... after $1000 in new parts and hundreds of dollars in diagnostics....the problems continue. It all started 4 months ago with a slight miss... and a coolant light... then progressed to periodic dying at idle... then a service engine light. But until the the service engine light, the car was very drive able. As time went on the engine would click out... even at highway speeds... although not fully die. So... started replacing the error code parts. I have replaced the following parts....
    maf sensor
    map sensor
    coolant sensor
    temperature sensor
    coil pack
    module under coil pack
    plugs
    wires
    fuel filter
    checked fuel pump...using the jumper lead by the battery...it whirred...so I assumed it to be ok
    nuetral saftey module(wow thats an expensive one)

    and after all of these...all the idiot lights returned to normal...no more coolant light or service engine light. It ran almost normal for a couple of weeks...although if I held the engine at 3000 rpms in nuetral...it would have a slight clicking sounding backfire once in a while. Then a few weeks later it began to take a couple of tries to start....now I can't even get it to idle more than 30 seconds before it dies...and if I try to drive it....it dies...and I am getting NO error codes now on the computer...despite the fact.....it is in many ways worse than ever....please give me some advice....RICK...DESPERATE IN CHICAGO
  • Buick Regal 1991 - After 11 years and 221,000 miles - Bad design on the caliper- We are waiting for the refund check from the class action law suit filed. We received the info in Oct 2000, still own the car and had the repair bills. Power window driver side replaced the part however knock three times on the driver door to open the window. NEED INFO please on the ECM same as PCM. Electronic Control Module/Power Control Module. After 200,000 we replace the module and the CAM sensor. EXACTLY ONE YEAR and 21,000 miles later we need a new ECM/PCM and they have not said what else. It may appear as another bad design when one of the sensors goes out the ECM/PCM (the brains) blows out. The part was under warranty for One Year/12,000 miles. We were under one year but lost it on 9,000 miles. Please send info if you have replaced your ECM/PCM.
  • will38will38 Posts: 30
    I took my car in for a oil change at a different dealer this time. I told them about the rattle in the door panel. THEY FIXED IT !!!!! It was loose door lock rods. They replaced them under warranty. Also, I mentioned my disappearing temperature display on the climate control. Since I didn't mention this at the time I made the appointment, I told them I would bring the car back on another day. They said they would fix it the same day. I haven't purchased a car from this dealer. I guarantee I will give them my business if their new car prices are reasonable. I will keep everyone posted when I have the other rattles looked at.
  • chenigechenige Posts: 1
    The quality of the new style 2000 model year Regal is much better than the old pre 97 style and the old 95 Park Avenue. Per JD Power the problems per hundred on the 2000 Regal is lower than the 96 Camry that you owned.
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Out of the blue, my 97.5 GS just started having these symptoms I've read about here.

    1) Engine stalls at slow speed, and all dash lights come on.

    2) Pressed brake petal to shift out of park, heared a whinning at the petal, and shift was locked up. Off/On - fine.

    3) Turned key, and nothing. Turn key again, and starts!

    4) At one point, Speedo needle jumped to 120 and back a couple of times, and various dash lights come on and stay on for a minute, then go off.

    Computer checked out good. Problem seems to be getting worse with time. Has anyone had this fixed with something besides replacing every part?
  • rcarbonircarboni Posts: 290
    Your problem sounds very much like a dying battery or a loose connection to the battery. Other possible causes may be a loose connection to the PCM, or PCM problems such as moisture causing an internal short. Check all the connections to/from the PCM thoroughly.

    Never had any problems in 140K on my '95 CC, and 18K on my 2000 GS. However, I have my head under the hood so often, I don't give problems a chance to start.
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Thanks for the advice! Replaced the battery about 4 months ago. Mechanic did find a loose nut on one of the ground wires, but did not resolve issue. I will check the connections out and seewhat else might be loose.

    Thanks again! I love this car, and just can't give up!
  • apctctapctct Posts: 1
    Started at about 3,000 miles--car now has 10,000. Happens intermittently... on same route, hear it constantly for several hundred miles, then stops for several hundred more, then starts again. Like something disengages and then goes back into place. When it happens, thuds going over bumps are much more pronounced--car doesn't seem to take them as well. Also, can hear "hollow" sound in rear. Each time go over bump, sound in rear is like something bumps once against something else. Dealer thought it might be broken baffle in exhaust system and replaced entire system--problem not solved. Nothing seems loose in trunk or in spare tire well. When it happens, car seems to handle the same. Any suggestions?
  • stealth1969stealth1969 Posts: 162
    I have a 95 Regal. My car had symptoms like this, the trans would not shift, I could rev the engine and it would not go, the engine would die, and the gages acted weird. I replaced the aternator and she runs fine now. You might want to check your alternator.
  • coalcrackercoalcracker Posts: 53
    I have a 1994 Buick Regal with 39,000 miles, 3.1 V-6 engine and i need some input from some of you good people to help me with a problem. After I changed my antifreeze this year, I found that my temperature gage (on the dash) showed that when the car was idling the temperature was about 220 degrees. When the car was on the road the gage showed the temperature to be about 200 degrees. When I stopped at a traffic light the temperature went back up to 220 degrees. I have never seen the temperature vary at all before. I thought it just stayed at 200 degrees and never changed during idle or when I was driving. Then I am not sure of this because I didn't pay to much attention to the temperature before. I also noticed that my fans on the radiator never come on at all. I have taken the car to a Buick dealer and they said this variation in temperature was normal and the fans only come on when the engine overheats. Since I want to take a long trip this summer down south were it will be hot I want to be sure that this dealer is correct and I won't have an overheating problem on the trip. Can someone verify what the dealer says is true. Also someone with an identical car would you please check your temperature as you drive and see what your gage shows and let me know? I would really appreciate your help. Thanks loads.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I do not know specifics, just the layman suggestions:

    The 200F temperature looks about right: I have the same 3.1l engine with my Malibu, and according to manual the thermostat temperature is 195F.

    On the other hand, 220F looks high for me. I would expect the fans to engage at about 210F. Just the common sense: the water boils at 212F at the sea level. Of course, the coolant is only 50% water, but...

    On the other hand, I do not think that the dash temperature gauge is very precise.

    I would suggest to ask the same service adviser to repeat what he told in writing. Say him/her that you will ask the service manager to sign the sheet, and will double-check with Buick customer service by e-mail.

    I am sure, though, that the dealership would not stay behind these words. The fans are for preventing overheating. When engine overheated already, it is too late.

    Let them check if the fan is working, and is working at right temperature. Anything can happen, from a bad fuse (very probable) to disconnected wires to a bad temperature sensor.

    It happens also an air pocket to be left in the coolant system, after replacing the coolant...
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Sounds normal except that if the car is left at idle and as the gauge creeps up the fan must eventually go on or the car will overheat. So, let it idle (as long as it takes) and if the fan does not kick in prior to the gauge going in to red or high end you have a problem in the electrical or fan itself
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    It will be a destructive test, would not it?

    Risking to overheat the engine to check the fans...

    What looks strange for me, is how fast the temperature increases and decreases. Just when waiting at traffic lights - not when sitting at jam, for example...
  • coalcrackercoalcracker Posts: 53
    The 50/50 antifreeze/water solution boils at about 226 degrees. So the solution doesn't appear to reach the boiling point. Especially if one considers that the gage is probably not that accurate. What bothers me is that the temperature goes up when idling to what I consider a high number and the fans do not come at all. I have left the car idling in the driveway and the temperature went up to about 230 degrees on the gage but I did not detect any boiling over and the fans did not come on. The dealer says that they checked out the fans and they work but they don't come on until the cooling system overheats. I have checked all the fuses and they are all okay. But I have a hard time believing that the fans don't come on until the car starts to overheat since in my other car the fans come on when the car is idling. I am still in a quandry and I keep spending money to make sure that the system is okay before I take my long trip.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "The 50/50 antifreeze/water solution boils at about 226 degrees" Not necessarily.

    Cooling systems are pressurized for a reason. Unpressurized water boils at 212 F at sea level. Each 1 psi pressure on the water raises it's boiling point about 3 degrees F. It's not a linear rise but close enough. Most cooling systems have a pressure cap rated around 15 psi., which will raise the coolant's boiling point to approximately 45-50 degrees higher than 212 F. Your coolant, pressurized to 15 psi, will start boiling at about 260 F. Do the math. How do you suppose pressure cookers work?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Check the fans out, should kick on at around 210 F. I have had a couple of cars that worked good then when I changed the coolant the fans stopped working. The temp switch in the block went bad. A mechanic friend said that sometimes air pockets form near the sending unit and will "insulate" it from the coolant causing the problem. Since you have to remove the sender from the block to get the air out anyway, might as well change it. Should be 2 senders, on for the gauge and one for the fans, ask for the right one. Easy way to check it is to find the switch unplug the harness and see what happens. Some cars the fan will come on others need to be jumped, need to find out if the switch is normally open or normally closed. If you can bypass the switch to make the fans work the switch is bad. If not, it may be a bad fan or relay. Hook the fan up to the battery, if it runs it is good, and the relay is bad. Good luck.
  • coalcrackercoalcracker Posts: 53
    Thanks. I will check the temperature sensors. I will also by-pass the sensor to see if the fans do come on. Somehow I do have the feeling that the problem is with the fans since they do not come on at all. So you probably are right jgmilberg. Thanks again. I will let you know how it turns out.
  • jpmiller99jpmiller99 Posts: 50
    I have a 1999 regal ls that keepings warping it's left front brake rotor.
    I had it machined and the pads replace at 30K. Then the rotor replaced twice in the last 6000 miles.
    Any ideas as to why this rotor continually warps on me?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Your caliper hardware is probably shot. The rubber o-rings and steel guide sleeves they ride in are probably torn up and pitted. What I am talking about is the little metal sleeve that the caliper bolts go through. When this happens the caliper will not return to the fully retracted position, leaving the pad rubbing against the rotor, over heating and warping it. Replace them with new ones. You can get them from the parts store, cost around $10 - $15. Also get a NEW US made rotor, machining just flattens it out, and after a little while it will reappear as a pulsating brake pedal.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the brake caliper hardware is OK, the left front flex hose might be defective. They can break down internally causing in effect a one way check valve which will allow fluid to the caliper but will restrict it's return flow. This would keep the pads partially applied, overheating the rotor. More common on higher mileage vehicles, but anything's possible.
  • I have a 1994 buick regal, with a 3100 V-6 engine. Does anyone know where the bleed point(s) for the cooling system are specifically located on my engine. I want to change my antifreeze and I am told that I have to bleed the air out of the system after I replace the antifreeze. Thanks. Bernie.
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