Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

1105106108110111169

Comments

  • hi there

     

    my name is james an i from writing from the uk

    i have a civic coupe 1.5lsi 1995 model,my problem is that when it has been frosty an dead cold the night before my car wont start,i crank it over 3-4 times an eventually it will start,an when it does it sounds like it running on 3 cylinders for about 3-4 seconds an a flume of blue smoke comes out of the exhaust.but other days it starts fine no problem.can u help????much appriated if ya can.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    hi there

      

    my name is james an i from writing from the uk

    i have a civic coupe 1.5lsi 1995 model,my problem is that when it has been frosty an dead cold the night before my car wont start,i crank it over 3-4 times an eventually it will start,an when it does it sounds like it running on 3 cylinders for about 3-4 seconds an a flume of blue smoke comes out of the exhaust.but other days it starts fine no problem.can u help????much appriated if ya can.


     

    The fact that the car eventually starts after a few cranks, is probably due to the grade of oil you are using. If you live in an area where it regularly gets bellow 0°F, try fully synthetic oil, like Mobil 1. Or, an electric oil heater. Switch to winter gas, which has lower evaporation temperature than summer gas. When was the last time the car tuned up? And I don't mean the $40 special from the gas station down the street. I mean, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, filters, PCV. All done properly with dielectric grease, and quality parts.
  • hi

     

    to be honest i dont know when the car had its last service an had plugs etc changed.i didnt get any documents with the car of service history,i know it must be due one as it has done 101,000miles.i have a raid air induction kit on it an it has a million mile service on the filter.

    after the car initially starts on then turn off it starts again perfect,i have a feeling the plugs do need changing,will look into doing a oil change as my mates owns a civic coupe as well an is running full synthetic oil in his an goes a dream.as over here we have only had two quite big frosts thats when this problem has shown it-self to me,an been fine 99% of the time.

    also can u veryfie if u know the standard bhp this car puts out as it has multi-point injection system i know it quicker the the hatchback version as i have raced as an wooped there arses.soom people say it has 115bhp and others say they run 130-135bhp.not sure if u would know as some cars you guys get in the states are different spec,i.e the us law dont allow evo's or skylines over there as we have tuned up monsters over.oh one more thing,about turbo's for the civic i have found out that you can buy bolt on turbos for my modile an many others but is this adviseable i have heard over very quick over heating in the engine,or would it be more sencible to drop a prelude vtec engine in then turbo it.??????????

    many thanks james
  • I'm giving you some advice that you probably want to follow. Do not turbo an engine that is originally naturally aspirated. It was never originally set up to be turboed out of the factory so do you think it would hold up if you just slapped on a turbo? If you really want serious gains in horsepower, then buy a faster car. My buddy put a turbo on his 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse and the engine suffered severe detonation within 10,000 miles. If you insist on going this route, then make sure you do it right and make sure all the internals are changed out to forged parts, bigger radiator, heavier clutch, etc. Turbo kits are never strictly bolt-on if you want them done right.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I am with ncambell on this. If you go the turbo way, you not only need a turbo, you will need an intercooler, fuel pump, injectors, new computer, forged con rods, crank shaft, lower compression pistons, and other miscellanius hardware. I think the 1.5 engine's most potent version was 125 hp. That is with VTEC on both intake and exhaust.

     

    Your first job to make this kitty purr is to give it a complete tune up. The million mile filter needs to be cleaned and re-charged almost every 10,000 miles with special oil.
  • hi

     

    cheers guys big help,i have heard some horro storys of civic going bang with turbo's fitted.there are a few [non-permissible content removed] guys hear one has a civic turbo an it is horribly quick,but everyone says to buy or get the prelude 2.2 vtec 198bhp engine fitted before kitting it with a turbo because it will take the such big power increase,i have a cousin in colorado an her husband owned a civic hatchback an twin turboed it how the hell is this done are you americans holding something back from us brits he said he had spent about $35,000 doing the car up.dont get me wrong modded civic over here look the daddys but in the states they have a lil bit more we aint into crome as much here with the civic's coz everyone in the underground world of cars who own's or know's civic are used for speed acceleration.is the civic engine vertually inderstructable?they are the pinicle of bad boy as not alot of people own then because of the high price it costs to insure them.i own the 1995 1.5lsi coupe does this car have quite abit if torqure coz when i shift from 1st to 2nd at 6500rpm close to red line the car will wheel spin into 2nd gear now none of my other cars i have owned will do this an it throughs me back into my seat,hence not as much as my mate 347bhp evo 5 but enough.

    one more thing-----my rev counter reads 9000rpm not can i get my car de-restricted to go up to the 9000 or not,if i can an i gun it to 9000 will the engine evevtually blow,have i get it tuned to 9000 will this put out more bph.

    many thanks
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    If you keep the boost at a nominal level. Most "low pressure" turbo installations usually run about 6 psi. Enough for a decent boost in hp and torque but not enough to blow the engine and not enough to kill the clutch/tranny. And an intercooler, boost controller/computer, and oil cooler are a must in any turbo setup. Those aren't optional. But a Civic engine can safely handle enough boost for a 30-40 hp increase before cracking open the block becomes necessary.
  • hi

     

    if anyone has driven the 1995 coupe 1.5lsi

    could you tell me when you gun it at 4000rpm the

    revs then seem to go round the clock alot quicker like a boost,is this down to the multi-point-injectors on my modle is this when they kick in coz mt civic takes off like a rocket come 4000rpm

     

    many thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I wish I could understand what you said. I tried to phonetically pronounce your writing, and you sound like a mix of Irishman and Scott after a few drinks. How old are you?

     

    1.5is has VTEC, this what you feel giving you a kick after 5000 RPM. Your red line is probably somewhere above 7000, maybe 8000 RPM. You want a 9000 RPM redline with reliability, get S2000. There is a reason it costs more than a Civic. If you just want a 9000 RPM redline you have 3 choices.

    1. Drive to red line in 3rd gear and then down shift to 2nd. This will take you past the rev limiter, will most likeley break your con rods and damage the valvetrain, but you will be able to claim to have had a 9000 RPM Civic.

    2. Get a Hondata chip, not sure if they make it for 1.5 version, but they sure made them for the 1.6 and 2.0 versions.

    3. Sell the Civic and get S2000 that comes with a 9000 RPM redline.

     

    Good luck.
  • yo

     

    no im not scott or irish ha ha,im 20 years old,

    the civic i have is none v-tec 1992-1995 coupe honda brought the v-tec out on the face lift model 1996.my model is the Lsi not sure if you guys over in the states recieved this model,but mine has multi-point injectors could this be the reason the car takes off like a rocket at 3500-4000rpm??before i get to 3500-4000 the car is quite slugish(but quick) but when i reach 3500-4000 its like pressing a nos button with 50bhp shot,its mental.

    what is ment by 'spoon engine' this this a manufacture or just slang word,i hear they are quite expensive but are the dogs bollox.

    could u if possible inform me what b16-b18-b20 are i hear so many people putting them into civic's and they give phanomamal performance.
  • I've tried four different brands of wiper blades(including Honda) and my wiper blades skid across the windshield even during a heavy rain. However, some days they work ok with very little vibration which doesn't make sense at all.

     

    There was no problem with the original set of blades when I bought the car.

     

    This is driving me crazy! Can anyone help.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,907
    Two things:

     

    1. go back to the oem replacement blade and/or wiper.

     

    2. anymore, the constant noise of wipers drives me batty (over 5 models of cars, so it is not just Honda), so I have also taken to using a Rain X type product and use the intermittent wiper option when the rains are really bad.

     

    Maintenance items: most of the time, the rubber blade of the wiper's suffer most from neglect and/or trying to function them after they have been (glued) stuck to the windshield for a time. This of course contributes to, if not totally, tearing them. Periodic cleaning really extends the life. One trick is to separate them from the windshield if you park in the hot sun a lot. (the hot sun and usually black dash board act like a reflective oven to the blades sitting on the windshield). When the blades start to smear (best is BEFORE) another trick is to use the nylon part of the ubiquitous dish sponge to "scour" the old dead rubber off the blade.
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    Markj wrote:

    "...my wiper blades skid across the windshield..."

     

    I assume you mean what I call "chatter." At its worst it is not only visible, but audible, too, and very annoying.

     

    Clean glass and clean rubber blade inserts help minimize this problem.

     

    Clean the rubber blades weekly with isopropyl alcohol.

     

    Treat the windshield with Rain-X. It's an amazing product that really works. In fact, following a fresh application, you aren't likely to need your wipers at all, not even in the heaviest downpour. Try it, you'll see.

     

    The downside of Rain-X is that it doesn't seem to last much longer than one week for maximum benefit, although it continues to be functional beyond that.

     

    I just installed a new silicone blade on the huge 24" driver's side of our '02 Si ... and it chatters, too. It's not audible, but I can see it jerking its way across the glass as I watch it.

     

    You'd think someone would work out this business of cleaning auto windshields better in the rain, wouldn't you? After all, we can drive RC cars around the surface of Mars, for heaven's sake. Why can't we clean our windshields better here on earth?
  • This is a well-known defect in many '01 civics. I don't believe that there was ever a recall, but there were certainly service bulletins. Even though you're out of warranty, check with Honda, they might help you out, go halvsies, free labor, or something.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    There was someone a while back that got new front struts by just paying labor.
  • Not a single one of you has a damn thing to say about the speedometer?
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    You wrote:

    “My 01 Civic went for the 45K mile checkup. The shop said the front strut starts to leak. Cost to fix is about $300 or more.”

     

    I think that’s a reasonable price for that job if you need new struts, and it sounds as though you might need them.

     

    You wrote:

    “I can't really believe that such leak can happen so early. . .”

     

    Oh, sure. 45K miles is a lot of miles on a shock absorber, especially if the roads you traverse are not in good condition. Rough roads kill shocks quickly.

     

    Whether or not Honda has a recurrent problem with leaking struts/shocks is another issue, but either way (defective, or not) 45K miles on rough roads will use up your shocks.

     

    I suspect shocks are a much-neglected item that need replacement long before the average owner finally gets around to replacing them. They’re unlike, say, brake pads and tires, which call attention to themselves when they’re worn out, unlike shocks, which can continue on despite having died long before. I take it for granted that any of our cars with 50k miles would benefit from new shocks. So far, we’ve always sold our cars around that point, but I always recommend to the buyer that they get new shocks if I sell the car privately.

     

    You wrote:

    “. . .of course I am not very pleased with the road conditions I drive in the city. Can this be the cause of the struts wear that leads to the leak?”

     

    Yes. Absolutely.

     

    Your city sounds like mine. :-)

     

    You wrote:

    “Do I need Honda shop to fix it or get help from a non-Honda shop because of the original parts concern?”

     

    Either one is fine.

     

    In fact, I would encourage you to consider purchasing after-market shocks. There are many after-market shocks, which are far superior to the original equipment Honda shocks. Three big names that immediately come to mind are: Koni, Bilstein, and Tokiko. There are others as well.

     

    The advantages of these after-market shocks are that they: (1) will probably cost no more, maybe even less, than the Honda shocks; (2) will come with a lifetime warranty; and (3) will outperform the Honda shocks. You can even buy adjustable shocks, which allow you to tailor your shocks to your immediate driving requirements. “Soft,” for example, for urban commuting on rough streets, “Medium” for highway trips, and “Firm” for zooming around twisty country roads. Those cost more, of course.

     

    If you have any interest in improving the handling of your Civic, you might wish to read about these shocks and buy the ones meeting your needs. A word of caution, though: I would suggest you not be seduced into buying the “most sporting” shocks, since they will ride very hard. If a really harsh ride is no concern to you, and you accept it for the sporting benefits, then okay. My experience, though, is that what is fun at first with very stiff suspensions. . . grows old over time. You may find yourself wishing you’d chosen a softer shock. Something to think about, especially when reading the comments of the youngsters who often do extreme things to their Civics in search of maximum performance and the “right look.”

     

    The kids with their fast and furious “slammed” Civics will assure you that their cars ride just fine. Don’t believe them. They mean well, but their enthusiasm may have overcome their reason. But they’re happy with their cars, and that’s good; it’s fun. But it’s not the best solution for most drivers.

      

    You wrote:

    “I also noted some steering wheel vibration at about 55 mph, though I had the tire shop checked and rebalanced before, but the vibration is still a bit evident. Can this vibration be anything to do with the strut leak?”

     

    Yes. Absolutely.

     

    Worn (or leaking) shocks permit the wheel and tire to bounce up and down uncontrollably, getting progressively worse over time. I would expect the driver could sense vibration through the steering.

     

    It could always be that you have other problems, or a combination of problems, of course.

     

    I hope this has been helpful.
  • yo

     

    if you are wishing to change your shokx an not pay your $300,check out 'spax' or 'blistein' over here in the uk these two company offer very good prices for either-stiff or soft shock lowered or not lowered or fully adjustable,dont always go to your main honda dealer for parts there are always cheaper options but they offer a longer life span an are alot better quality,

    if your feeling the car aint driving right get your tracking down first of all as honda's have a little problem,,,,,the tracking is so easily knockd out.
  • Hello again everyone. I thought I would bring this up on the board especially for those of you that have to tough out cold climates over the next 3-4 months. As most of you know I own a 03 Civic EX coupe. It seems that the vehicle does not want to maintain proper water temperature in the cold when I am running the heater. It is fine when I'm driving, but if I get stopped at a traffic light idling for 3-5 minutes, the temp. gauge will start dropping. I found it especially peculiar that the temp. gauge did not rise at all this morning when I went in the garage to preheat the car (outside temp about 10 degrees F. (I know I stated previously that I was against this practice of preheating cars before driving them, but I was running a fever and had a big chill in me :( . This was after 20 minutes of the engine running with the heater on high. I wasn't expecting it to be to operating temperature, but when I got in the car the heater was barely blowing out anything worthwhile and the gauge was still buried at the rock bottom. I don't THINK it's the thermostat, because the car maintains temperature while crusing, whereas the thermostat in my old Civic went and the temp. gauge never rose above the cold mark. I was just wondering if anyone else has similar experiences with this before I take it into the dealer crying out a thermostat problem.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Hello again everyone. I thought I would bring this up on the board especially for those of you that have to tough out cold climates over the next 3-4 months. As most of you know I own a 03 Civic EX coupe. It seems that the vehicle does not want to maintain proper water temperature in the cold when I am running the heater. It is fine when I'm driving, but if I get stopped at a traffic light idling for 3-5 minutes, the temp. gauge will start dropping. I found it especially peculiar that the temp. gauge did not rise at all this morning when I went in the garage to preheat the car (outside temp about 10 degrees F. (I know I stated previously that I was against this practice of preheating cars before driving them, but I was running a fever and had a big chill in me :( . This was after 20 minutes of the engine running with the heater on high. I wasn't expecting it to be to operating temperature, but when I got in the car the heater was barely blowing out anything worthwhile and the gauge was still buried at the rock bottom. I don't THINK it's the thermostat, because the car maintains temperature while crusing, whereas the thermostat in my old Civic went and the temp. gauge never rose above the cold mark. I was just wondering if anyone else has similar experiences with this before I take it into the dealer crying out a thermostat problem.

     

    This is a prime example of a highly efficient engine. Heat is not a primary function of an engine. Heat is by product of combustion and friction. More heat engine generates - less efficient it is.

     

    You can try remedying the "problem" by installing a higher temperature thermostat.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I've tried four different brands of wiper blades(including Honda) and my wiper blades skid across the windshield even during a heavy rain. However, some days they work ok with very little vibration which doesn't make sense at all.

      

    There was no problem with the original set of blades when I bought the car.

      

    This is driving me crazy! Can anyone help.


     

    A high quality wiper should not give you these problems for 6 months or so. I used to buy Bosch MicroEdge Excell once a year, around Christmas time. This year, back in the summer I went with TriplEdge. TriplEdge are 100% silicone and have a lifetime guarantee. I already used the gaurantee once, when I broke the retaining clip while removing the ice. I called Jarmack, and they sent 2 replacements, and not just the insert, like the warranty states, but the whole assembly.

     

    TripleEdge are not as good as Bosch, but that can be remedied with RainX application and RainX (or BJ's, Costco's knock off) water repelling windshield washer fluid.

     

    You can prolong the service life of a regular blade, by lifting it off the windshield in the winter and summer, when parked.

     

    Good luck.
  • I had the same problem around the same mileage and as someone else has already replied, it does show up at the steering wheel.

    One thing that you should be aware of is that the strut housing also has the steering arm welded to the side of it. Due to this, manufacturers were slow in offering replacements. I'm not certain if this situation has changed in the last couple of years. What has been sold as a replacement strut for the seventh generation Civic is an insert for the original housing. The original housing from Honda is a sealed strut. There is a good bit of work involved including cutting the top off the original housing, pressing the new insert into place and drilling into the bottom of the housing to bolt the insert in. I used Koni yellow inserts and have been pleased.

    If you can get both sides done from Honda for $300, I'd seriously consider that route. This job requires a good bit of work including splitting the steering ball joints, which more than likely will require alignment at the end of the job.

    I did not go the Honda route, mainly because I put a lot of miles on my car, and was concerned that the original reason the struts were failing had not been addressed in the Honda replacement. The Koni's are adjustable, have a lifetime warranty and have performed well to this point, about 100,000 miles later. I keep them on the softest setting.
  • I run the Bosch blades as well. They seem to work fine for about a year. As mentioned, if you haven't used the Rain-X washer fluid, you should give it a try. I am not a Rain-X user, but did fill the washer reservoir recently with the Rain-X washer fluid. It does a great job and as mentioned, reduces the need for the wipers. It isn't the cheapest washer fluid, but sells for about the same as other major manufacturers branded fluid. I ran out and recently filled the reservoir with Prestone. About the same price as Rain-X, but doesn't provide the same benefits.
  • If you are serious, check out the HondaTech site. They have a special section dedicated to forced induction. Most questions involving turboing and supercharging have been answered. My advice is to research the archives and lurk around the site for awhile. There are some folks there that know what they are talking about, have done it and documented it for others. There are also many horror stories about what went wrong. My thoughts after lurking around the HondaTech site for awhile; it is expensive to do right, most people aren't willing to educate themselves on the subject and don't get it right, there is a never ending circle of increased boost and broken parts. When the engine is right, the clutch goes out, transmissions, half shafts, etc. Once the parts are replaced and upgraded, the cycle seems to repeat with more boost.
  • Thanks for the tips everyone! I'll give them a try an report back.
  • hi there

    i am looking apon buying some toyo proxes R888 tyere for my civic does anyone know if these are a half decent tyre,they are fast road and track day tyres.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    It could still be a thermostat problem. It could be stuck slightly open. In that case it would allow too much coolant through the radiator to maintain temperature at idle. That's the only reason I can think of for the coolant gauge to drop. It should stay in one spot.
  • svonsvon Posts: 1
    I got the new civic LX. Could anyone tell me when should be the first normal maintain schedule for engine oil change and oil filter change. From the manual, it seems to tell me that I should change oil and oil filter every one year or every 10K miles. Do I misunderstand? I was told that I should change oil and oil filter every 3 months or every 3K miles before. I am confused.
  • From the manual, it seems to tell me that I should change oil and oil filter every one year or every 10K miles. Do I misunderstand? I was told that I should change oil and oil filter every 3 months or every 3K miles before.

     

    If you read the Owners Manual a little more carefully you'll note that there are two schedules: normal and severe. The "normal" schedule is service intervals of 10,000 miles. The "severe" schedule is 5,000 miles. It also has a definition of "severe" and "normal" so you can determine which schedule you should use based on how you drive your vehicle.

     

    The dealer told you 3 months/3,000 miles, right? The only thing that'll be hurt by changing it that often is your bank account.

     

    :)
  • trantitranti Posts: 51
    Hi! I think that we should have Oil and oil filter changed every 5000 miles. 10000 miles is too long. 3000 miles is too short.
This discussion has been closed.