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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    I'd be concerned about this behavior, irrespective of whether it's a design "feature," or not.

     

    If I understand you correctly, this system will permit you to open your doors, set something inside the car, _including your keys_(!), then close the door to do something else momentarily -- and the system will LOCK YOU OUT! Now, with the keys inside the locked car, you're going to be unhappy.

     

    Either way, it's defective, in my opinion.

     

    A well-designed system will not permit the driver to accidentally lock himself out. My '02 Civic Si protects me from such errors, while my '02 Mazda P5, alas, does not, since it allows one to depress the interior lock "button" on the door windowsill, or activate the locks with the remote with the hatch lid open, and then when I close the hatch (with my keys inside the trunk). . . I'm going to be unhappy. :-(
  • kauai215...thaks for the info...I agree with you. I think it is a defect. In my 4 1/2 years of owning this car I have never experienced that except for this winter. Thanks. I checked my manual as well and there is no mention of this. I will go back to the dealer as well.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    If your door switches are not working in the cold, the alarm doesn't know you opened the door and got in. In that case, all newer Hondas have a delay that locks the doors after a certain amount of time. Sounds like you may have moisture in a door switch.
  • gogiboygogiboy Posts: 732
    I'm hoping some other Civic owners may be able to comment on my suspension woes.

     

    I have my 1994 Civic EX (113K) at a local mechanic because of persistent noise coming from both the front and back suspension--the typical squeaks and creaks that make it sound like the springs need lubrication. His recommendation: replace all 36 bushings to the tune of $1300 parts and labor. Needless to say my jaw dropped although I can hardly complain about the Civic as this is the first major expense in 11 years of ownership.

     

    I'm wondering if this is typical and whether the price seems reasonable? I bought the car new and never have abused it and I don't live on or off of dirt roads.

     

    He's also recommending a timing belt/water pump and seals due to significant oil leakage. I had the timing belt replaced at around 60K by the Honda dealer, but the $250 job never covered the water pump or seals. This mechanic has a good local reputation, which is more than I can say for the Honda dealership. His price for the timing belt/water pump seals and labor is $500.

     

    Thanks for any advice or tips.
  • I thought of that too. I have seen this problem occur when the dome light comes or when it does not come on upon unlocking and opening the door.
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    This is an interesting puzzle.

     

    The door switch notion appeals to me; I'd go down that path for a ways before setting it aside.

     

    Have you tried each door, one at a time, independently of the others, to see if you can replicate the problem? I assume you've seen the problem repeat itself with the driver's door. How about if you leave the driver's door closed, and just open and close the passenger door(s)? Do you get the same results each time?

     

    If not, then "something" relating to the "different" door, the "offending" door, is related to the problem. Since it's almost certainly electrical in nature, I like that door switch suggestion.

     

    Is it possible that the door switch moves just enough to activate the dome light, but not the contact connected to the alarm and locking system?

     

     
    You say that your dealer claims this to be normal. Hmm... I'm not surprised. My guess is that this may be one of those problems you'll need to solve yourself, then have the incompetents at the dealership replace the offending parts after you educate them. Every serious or just difficult diagnosis on a car I've ever had... I had to solve myself. Service Writers are imbecilic losers, that's why they're not mechanics, and the way they are paid encourages them to abuse you one way or another. They're aren't likely to make much money from you for this problem, and it "pays" them to hustle you out of there with reassurances that "they all do that."

     

    If you (we?) cannot pin this down, you might consider this strategy: Take your car to the dealership and park it in a way that most obstructs the morning clients coming into the service area. Be sure to secure the handbrake firmly, and put the car in gear.

     

    Now... bring the moron over who said this is normal behavior and talk to him about the problem while you leave your keys (inadvertently) in the car and close the door. When the system locks the car...

     

    Pretend you don't have a spare key, or can't find it.

     

    Now, the moron will begin to understand the problem. It's now HIS problem as your car is blocking the service area and is going to be a pain to remove.

     

    Make your problem HIS PROBLEM, and I'll bet he/she becomes more interested in seeking a solution! ;-)

     

    Would you do me a favor, please? Write back and let us know the solution. I'd appreciate it. :-)

     

     
    -Kauai (who's feeling the devil in himself this evening. ;-)
  • Thanks for your suggestion. I was able to replicate the problem in front of the service advisor. He saw the door relock and alarm reactivate after I closed the door, but still he said it was normal. I will talk to the service manager. He is a good guy and I believe very competent. Thanks agin for the info and suggestions. I will try them out.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have a 2000 Honda Civic LX sedan with a Honda security system. When the weather is cold and the car is locked and alarm activated if I unlock the door and get into the car and close it again, the doors will lock and alarm will activate in a minute or so if I do not put the key into the ignition. Is this normal? My dealer says so , but I never noticed it before.

     

    If you have OEM Honda alarm unit (your remotes are Honda branded remotes) there is a switch inside to go from "Passive" to "Active" system. In "passive" mode the alarm should re-arm automatically, in "active" mode the alarm will not arm untill you click the remote. The insurance companies only give you discount on "passive" systems, as it eliminates human factor.

     

    It is possible that the door switch is faulty, but it is also possible that the switch inside the alarm unit got switched to "active" either from a very hard bump, or the "brains" in the unit got messed up.

     

    OEM unit in the 2000 EX goies under the dash by the steering column entering the firewall.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I'm hoping some other Civic owners may be able to comment on my suspension woes.

      

    I have my 1994 Civic EX (113K) at a local mechanic because of persistent noise coming from both the front and back suspension--the typical squeaks and creaks that make it sound like the springs need lubrication. His recommendation: replace all 36 bushings to the tune of $1300 parts and labor. Needless to say my jaw dropped although I can hardly complain about the Civic as this is the first major expense in 11 years of ownership.

      

    I'm wondering if this is typical and whether the price seems reasonable? I bought the car new and never have abused it and I don't live on or off of dirt roads.

      

    He's also recommending a timing belt/water pump and seals due to significant oil leakage. I had the timing belt replaced at around 60K by the Honda dealer, but the $250 job never covered the water pump or seals. This mechanic has a good local reputation, which is more than I can say for the Honda dealership. His price for the timing belt/water pump seals and labor is $500.

      

    Thanks for any advice or tips.


     

    Timing belt is due at 120K on your car, we well as the water pump. $500 is about what dealer charges. The parts will cost you $100, everything else is labor.

     

    36 bushings for $1300 is kind of pricey, but OEM parts are not cheap. Look into urethane aftermarket bushings from a reputable supplier. Labor is still going to be a major part of the bill.
  • gogiboygogiboy Posts: 732
    Dear blueiedgod--

     

    Thanks for the reply. I read a lot of your posts and have a great deal of respect for your knowledge about Civics. You have definitely reassured me and I hope to eventually squeeze out 200K or more miles on my Civic.

     

    Gogiboy
  • Thanks blueiedgod for your ideas. I e-mailed the service manager about the symptoms and he is basically saying the same thing you are. I am supposed to bring my car in the get my cruise control actuator replaced and they will switch from the passive to active mode. Thank you!
  • jlim1jlim1 Posts: 50
    Hello,

     

    Has anyone tried the high performance headlight bulbs on the Civic (white light)? Is it acceptable/safe to switch from regular halogen to this? Please advise.

     

    Thanx.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,679
    Actually. on a 1994 the timing belt change interval is 90,000 miles. If you are going in there anyway to change the seals I would replace the belt at any mileage. If may have oil on it which will cause it to fail.
  • I ran the Silvanias in my 94, worked great, and no one ever flashed me as if I had my hibeams on accidently. Made night driving much easier.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    just inherited an '87 CRX, 140K, running well but hardly driven the last three years or so. It is too bad - seems there are no dedicated CRX threads here at Edmunds. Was just wondering if anyone knew a good source (maybe internet or something?) for OEM body parts - this car has a nosepiece and front fenders that appear to be made out of something like fiberglass, all are cracked, the nosepiece itself has a big ugly chunk missing. Seems worth replacing because the rest of the car is in such good shape - all the metal panels are undamaged, and since the car spent most of its life garaged, even the paint is in excellent shape.

     

    This car is so great - I love crank windows and manual steering! :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • gogiboygogiboy Posts: 732
    isell--

     

    Thanks for the update. That's why it is so disappointing to have to replace it at 113K--even though it was replaced early at 65K.

     

    I've washed my hands of the local Honda dealer after they tried to sell us an $1100 catalytic converter despite the fact that I told the service manager that I'd run over a log the night before. Took it to a local muffler chain and their tech diagnosed it as a bent heat shield that needed to be tack welded. Price $10!

     

    So it doesn't surprise me that my previous timing belt replacement didn't cover the water pump and seals. The current mechanic said exactly what you said, which is that it was almost certainly leaking oil onto the timing belt.

     

    This local dealership is nothing like the one you work for isell. When we bought the Civic in 94 is was a friendly, family run place that was low-pressure and only sold Hondas. After changing hands a couple of times it has become one of those screamer ad places that sells and services Hondas and Chrysler stuff out of the same building/lot. They seem more interested in moving used vehicles of uncertain provenance that are towed in for weekend quick-sales Quite disappointing, really. The bent heat shield was actually the third and final straw--although I guess I'm still paying for their ineptitude on the timing belt.

     

    Doesn't change my feeling about high quality of the Honda brand. My wife and I also love our Toyotas.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    maybe this as one possibility might work for you:

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    thanks a lot! That place has everything in stock I need.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Thank you.

     

    (brought a tear to my eye)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Thank you

     

    (see above)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Hello,

      

    Has anyone tried the high performance headlight bulbs on the Civic (white light)? Is it acceptable/safe to switch from regular halogen to this? Please advise.

      

    Thanx.


     

    I run MTEC's on the Civic. Those are rated at 160/170 watt, with only 90 watt draw. This puts it very close the the rated amperage on the head light circuit, but just bellow it so not to blow the fuses and fry the wiring.

     

    I have tried Sylvania Silverstar, they are good, but not as good as MTEC. MTEC is the closest you can get to HID without the HID conversion. They don't have that annoying puple/blue look to them, just white, very white light. MTEC's come with lifetime warranty and I have used it a few times. They usually last a year, and I put in the Silverstars while the warranty is being processed (you have to send the old ones back with a $4 check, to get the new ones)
  • hi,

    I bought 40mm lowering springs for my 95 civic coupe. just wondering weather it will be a stright forward enough job to do myself or weather there will be complications while fitting them.I have fitted springs on vw's before but ive heard that the honda suspension can be quite tricky. Anyone??
  • Blueiedgod,

     

    What's the model # or specs for the MTECs you have on your civic? Also, do you know where I could get them cheap? Thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Blueiedgod,

      

    What's the model # or specs for the MTECs you have on your civic? Also, do you know where I could get them cheap? Thanks.


     

    It all depends if you have high/low in one or separate high and low beams. If memory serves me right, Civic never had separate high and low, they have always been in one bulb. So you should look for 9003 replacement. Check out ebay for MTEC.
  • Hello!

     

    Okay, I'm a girl so I don't know that much about cars, but enough to get me through a semi-educated conversation.

     

    My car is doing this weird thing when it idles. It kind of makes this noise * puh *puh at the exhaust. it sounds HORRIBLE! I am thinking that it might be a sensor or my fuel injection or something. It drives fine when I'm on the gas, its just when I go in on the clutch. or I am at a stop.

     

    I appreciate any help you might be able to give me, clues or anything.

     

    here are the Stats:

    2000 Honda Civic Ex

    87,000 miles

    reg. maint. done (oil, filter, etc.)

    some after market: air filter, cold-air intake.

    standard (no other way to go)

     

    I'm trying to get away from a 70.00 diagnostic fee from the honda dealer in town, so any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!
  • HELP! i need to remove a radio from a 1994 honda civic immediately. do i need to pop the dash off? i've tried everything else and nothing is working. please, i need to do this before my car is towed.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Stereo Radio

    Honda Civic/CRX/del Sol 1984-1995 Repair Guide

     
    1992-95 Models

    The original equipment radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Before beginning removal, be sure to know the code for re-installation. The code is erased whenever the battery is disconnected or the No. 32 (7.5A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box is removed. When power is re-connected, the word "CODE" will be displayed and will require entry of the 5-digit code for that particular unit.

        

      WARNING

      

    All SRS wire harnesses are covered with a yellow insulation.

     

    Remove the center instrument panel by removing the four philips screws on the top and sides.

    Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the cigarette lighter.

    Remove the two screws, then disconnect the 16-pin connector and the antenna lead.

    Carefully pull the radio/cassette player out.

     

    To Install:

     

    Plug in the 16 pin connector and install the two retaining screws.

    Plug in the antenna lead, the cigarette lighter and carefully install the unit.

    Install the center instrument panel. Re-connect power to the car, and enter the 5-digit theft protection code for the radio/cassette player.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    a "puh puh" huh? ;)

     

    maybe there's a hole in the muffler? can you look under the vehicle and determine if there are any holes in the piping, cat convertor or muffler?
  • My 1998 and my daughter's 1999 Civics developed an engine whine that sounds like a whisper jet taking off. I just had my timing belt and water pump replaced and that did not solve the whine/squeel problem. It is not the sound of a slipping belt, and not the typical sound of bad bearings. Sounds like it is coming from the engine. It can happen accelerating/decellerating/putting clutch in/not putting clutch in...it can happen anytime. On very cold days, it continues for 45 minutes til I arrive at work. On cold days, it goes away once the engine is totally warm. On warm days, it does not occur. By the way, this car has had regular oil changes and scheduled maintenance.

     

    Anyone have similar problem? Anyone know or want to speculate the cause?

     

    Thanks,

    Dan Diviney
  • john500john500 Posts: 409
    The first things I would do are:

    Step 1. If you are in a cold climate, put in a bottle of "dry gas" to rule out water in the fuel line.

     

    Step 2. Although you correlate the sound with the clutch, I think you can safely rule that out. When the cluch goes, there is normally a high-pitched ring (throw-out bearing typically) instead of a puh-puh sound.

     

    Step 3. Check your fuel filter for restrictions since the problem goes away at full throttle and lingers at idle(although you indicate that regular maintenance has been done and I assume that means the fuel filter also).

     

    Step 4. Too technical for me.
This discussion has been closed.