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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • I do know a little about mufflers... so no. I can differintiate between the sounds. I have an after-market exshaust system and I have had it re-done a few times because of problems. THIS however is something else.

     

    Thanks for your help, I appreciate anything people are willing to help me with.

     

    Oh yea... the puh puh is kind of like a mini-backfire to maybe make the sound a little more understandable...lol.. what can I say I'm not a car, I can't make car sounds.. lol. thanks.
  • hey thanks for the help! I will give the list to my boyfriend ;)

    Let him figure it out. lol...

    I think it might be a sensor or something, but the check engine light isn't coming on so I'm not sure...

     

    And the only thing about the clutch is just when I push it in to take the car out of gear, I agree with you, it has nothing to do with the clutch.

     

    Thanks again!
  • khaokhao Posts: 1
    i just put a b18c motor into my civic dx '00. i keep getting a check engine light. when i dianostic it, it throw a tps code... i changed the whole throttle body and checked the wiring still having problems. sometimes when driving the car feels like its idle but im in gear and when i gas it doesn't accelerate until i press the pedal almost half way! after that happens it throws check engine light. does any body have an idea whats goin on?
  • I have an '02 Honda Civic LX. Recently, the turn signals stopped working. The fourways worked, though. I pulled the fuse for the turn signals and it was blown, so I replaced it. It blew that one as well, but I tried once more. The turn signals worked for a couple of days, but then the fuse blew again. All 4 bulbs work fine. What could be causing this?

     

    Please email me at RACexplore@aol.com if you have any ideas. Thanks.
  • hello can anyone out there tell me how much does a clutch replacement cost including tax&labor thanks
  • [non-permissible content removed] man here again sorry forgot to mention its a 95 civic Lx
  • I am having the same issue as alanhj. They dim while I am cruising. It does not happend when I hit a bump or if the car suddenly moves or jolts. It happends sporatically, totally unexpected.
  • I was quoted $389.00 out the door to replace my clutch in my old 89 Accord Lxi from an independent mechanic. I'm not sure exactly how much they cost today, I'm guessing more since this was close to 4 years ago. Your best bet if you want to save some money is to go to a reputable independent mechanic in your area, preferably someone who specializes in foreign cars, as they will probably be able to get the job done faster hence saving you $$$..good luck
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Hello!

      

    Okay, I'm a girl so I don't know that much about cars, but enough to get me through a semi-educated conversation.

      

    My car is doing this weird thing when it idles. It kind of makes this noise * puh *puh at the exhaust. it sounds HORRIBLE! I am thinking that it might be a sensor or my fuel injection or something. It drives fine when I'm on the gas, its just when I go in on the clutch. or I am at a stop.

      

    I appreciate any help you might be able to give me, clues or anything.

      

    here are the Stats:

    2000 Honda Civic Ex

    87,000 miles

    reg. maint. done (oil, filter, etc.)

    some after market: air filter, cold-air intake.

    standard (no other way to go)

      

    I'm trying to get away from a 70.00 diagnostic fee from the honda dealer in town, so any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!


     

    If you say that the sound is like the engine is back firing, then you have few possible causes:

    0) Throw out bearing is shot

    1) Fuel misture is too rich.

    2) Cat is shot

    3) Aftermarket exhaust is too free flowing, not enough back pressure.

    4) Ignition is out of whack.

    5) Timing belt is stretched.

    6) Burnt valve or valve seat.

    7) Idle control valve is messed up.

    8) Crappy fuel.

    9) Crappy oil.

    10) CAI let the engine "inhale" water.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    My 1998 and my daughter's 1999 Civics developed an engine whine that sounds like a whisper jet taking off. I just had my timing belt and water pump replaced and that did not solve the whine/squeel problem. It is not the sound of a slipping belt, and not the typical sound of bad bearings. Sounds like it is coming from the engine. It can happen accelerating/decellerating/putting clutch in/not putting clutch in...it can happen anytime. On very cold days, it continues for 45 minutes til I arrive at work. On cold days, it goes away once the engine is totally warm. On warm days, it does not occur. By the way, this car has had regular oil changes and scheduled maintenance.

      

    Anyone have similar problem? Anyone know or want to speculate the cause?

      

    Thanks,

    Dan Diviney


     

    Is the whine coming in from the speakers? Alternator may be at fault.

     

    If not, check the grade of oil the mechanics put in last time. It may be too thick for the cold weather.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have an '02 Honda Civic LX. Recently, the turn signals stopped working. The fourways worked, though. I pulled the fuse for the turn signals and it was blown, so I replaced it. It blew that one as well, but I tried once more. The turn signals worked for a couple of days, but then the fuse blew again. All 4 bulbs work fine. What could be causing this?

      

    Please email me at RACexplore@aol.com if you have any ideas. Thanks.


     

    Are you using the correct sized fuse for the circuit? On the fuse door it should state what amperage fuse should be used. 02 should be under warranty, if so, make it dealer's problem. Electrical problems can take 5 minutes or 5 days to diagnose. Sounds like you may have an intermittednt short in the flasher relay or the wires leading to the lights. One fo the lights may have water in it.
  • john500john500 Posts: 409
    If it isn't as simple as disconnecting the negative battery terminal, it sounds like you might need to reprogram your car's computer system to match the swapped engine specs. I am not familiar at all with engine swaps so I couldn't answer anything in detail about the throttle body sensor. The source of most of my problems on a 2000 Saturn S-series with the "check engine" light was with sensors on the intake and exhaust.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    Does anyone know if the engine used in the 2000 LX, 1.6L SOHC, is an interference design. This means that if the timing belt breaks the pistons could hit the valves thus causing bent valves. The engine has 98000 miles and may need a timing belt replacement soon. Has anyone replaced the belt at a Honda dealer and hpw much did it cost?
  • Run quickly to the shop and get that belt changed!!! Do it tomorrow, or Thurs, this is an emergency situation!!!
  • That is one thing you don't want to push back a few thousand miles.

     

    I had one go, @ same miles, 2 weeks after buying car from inlaws. Fortunatly I was all but stopped at a stop sign. Car died, like I shut it off. Mechs had the head off, no damage, cost was @300. for new belt and labor.

     

    A neighbor lost his at 45 mph, and his cheapest option was $1500. This was nearly 7 years ago, so adjust for inflation.

     

    Yes, is interference design. A rebuild could cost 2K these days. And that is just for a head and assembly. Nevermind if you need to replace any of the slugs. Lots of labor costs here.

     

    This should be enough to clue you into the necessity of changing the belt as recommended.

     

    Hope you get r done, in time, best wishes to you.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,744
    The sky isn't going to fall.

     

    That 1998 Civic's timing belt has a reccommended change interval of 105,000 miles. It's in your owner's manual.

     

    Highly unlikely it's going to break soon.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    Also keep in mind, that is the statistical mode median, mean. There is a safety factor built in, but it has never to my knowledge been published.
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    mike372 wrote:

    “Has anyone replaced the belt at a Honda dealer and how much did it cost?”

     

    I believe that it _is_ an interference design.

     

    If you have it done at a Honda dealership, I’d guess the cost would run around $500, or more. Call around, though, because you may find a better deal at one shop than the others. Private shops probably offer lower prices than Honda dealers.

     

    My greatest concern would be to find the right mechanic, one I could trust to do the job competently and responsibly, rather than selling me the slipshod, half-a**ed, incompetent and indifferent “workmanship” one sees all too often these days. I’d be much more concerned about the mechanic than about the price.

     

    I’d consider replacing the water pump at this time, too. It’s cheap to do now when all the bits and pieces are removed and access is easy. A new water pump is a wise investment at this mileage if one plans to keep the car for some time. (I’d wonder about the competence of the shop that didn’t offer this option.)

     

    isellhondas wrote:

    “The sky isn't going to fall.”

     

    Not yet, it isn’t. However, if the timing belt breaks, the sky WILL fall! The owner will be unhappy. ;-)

     

    For the general readers in this forum: It’s unwise to tempt fate by postponing maintenance on an item like the timing belt where the consequences of failure are catastrophic in almost all cases. There are a number of maintenance items one can neglect without incurring major problems. The cam timing belt is most emphatically NOT one of those items!

     

    If this were my car, and I intended to sell it right around the maintenance interval at, say, 105K miles, then I would not have the work done, but would make a BIG point of the necessity of performing this maintenance immediately to whomever I sold the car. In fact, I’d put it in writing and have the buyer sign it.

     

    If I were planning to keep the car, I’d do this maintenance on schedule, without delay. To do otherwise is to risk everything with the possibility of winning _nothing_. That makes no sense. (I realize there may be a handful of owners who lack the resources to get this job done in a timely manner, and to them I would say: Make this expense a priority just below food and shelter, because otherwise you may find yourself without a car at all. It really is that important, so don’t dismiss this maintenance lightly, folks.)
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    ruking1 wrote:

    “Also keep in mind, that is the statistical mode median, mean.”

     

    If you mean by “that,” the 105,000 mile replacement interval for the cam timing belt, I wonder if this is true. I’m not saying it isn’t, since I don’t know.

     

    But I would doubt that 105,000 miles is the mean time between failure (MTBF). Presumably the frequency distribution of failure is a standard distribution, and this would assume a bell curve distribution.

     

    If the replacement interval were set to the mode/median/mean, which you say would be 105K miles, then fully HALF OF ALL BELTS would break BEFORE that point! Uh-oh... ;-)

     

    I’m thinking that the 105K miles point is way down on the left-hand tail of the bell curve. At this point _very_ few belts would fail before this -- it would be statistically improbable, although still "possible" -- and the _vast_ majority of belts would last longer.

     

    This is not supposed to be a gamble, after all. We want to set the replacement interval at a point which virtually guarantees no owner is going to experience that “falling sky” problem. ;-)

     

    I’d think that would be the way Honda would want to do this, don’t you?

     

    I could be confused, though. It wouldn’t be the first time. ;-)

     

    Correct me if I’m wrong, please.

     

    -Kauai (who encourages everyone to refrain from gambling on _this_ maintenance item.)
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    No, I think you grasped the concept I was trying to get across. As I said, the MTBF has never been published. Nor has it been discussed anywhere at the consumer/DIY level. Also, if I had to guess, I am guessing there is a min safety factor of 2x or so built in. or 210-250k MTBF So as you said, if you apply the SD's... So there is some wiggle room at the 105k mile interval. Am I saying or recommending 210-250k mile intervals? NO!!! :):(

     

    This is might be off topic, but I watch a small population of VW Jetta/Beetle TDI's (10) having timing belts changed over a weekend. Later during the year I also watch 6 more being changed. (total of 16)(VW's have between 60-100k TB change intervals, redesigned belts are at a min of 80k (automatic) to the manual of 100k) The most amazing thing was comparing a brand new timing belt to the old ones. Someone inadvertently mixed in his new timing belt with a batch of old ones and believe it or not even the steely eyed ace tech had to make double sure he was using the BRAND new one. It was very difficult to pick out. I often think the real value here is that at 105k the thing is torn apart and inspected. The Honda and the VW TDI have some other "suicide" design features, so it is a good interval to inspect and take corrective action/s if the suicide features seem ready to do their deed. So that I am not vague, TB rubbing (causing damage to components or itself abrading), belt stretch,belt damage, tensioner, tensioner spring, water pump leaking, oil leaks from 2-3 seals, damage to gear teeth, oil/grease anti freeze etc. coating belt; to name a few.
  • This is a long shot, but I would check the air intake plumbing on the engine. Be sure that you are not getting any additional air into the engine, (from cracks in the air intake system), when the engine moves on it's mounts under acceleration. If you get additional air through a leak in the air intake system, you will be operating under a lean mixture when the engine moves in the mounts, and when the engine block rocks back into position, the mixture will go rich. At the same time the poor oxygen sensor is trying to get the mixture to 14.7 to 1. Just a suggestion. ----Greg
  • I got my belt done on my 95 Civic DX when I had it for $270 out the door with water pump. Check out a reputable independent mechanic. This will save you $$$ as I mentioned with the clutch post earlier as well. Keep in mind this belt was replaced about 3 years ago so adjust for inflation.
  • i did a valve job on a 1.5 motor. it has no acceleration after warm up, is it a fuel injector or a fuel system problem?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I am not a Honda expert - but I have owned a few other vehicles with timing belts - you could take the TB cover part way off - at least enough so you could see the belt. This inspection is not a 100% test - a belt could look good and still fail - but it at least tells you if the belt is starting to fray. I would inspect mine every 20,000 miles or so.

     

    I have seen belts go over 200K and they still looked good when they were replaced. I also had a belt break on a Nissan PU at 58,000 miles - change interval was 60K.

     

    If you do have a belt replaced - in addition to the water pump replacement - IMO it is also a good time to replace the pulley that is used to adjust the tension on the timing belt. I had a belt replaced at 60K - and then at 90K the pulley went out. The result is the same as breaking a belt. The pulley cost about $20.
  • Anyone have a possible solution for this one? Have a 95 EX w/ 115k miles. New battery 2 months ago. Go to start and get no response, no lights on the dash, can't start, no power for locks, radio, nothing. Dealer inspected, said battery cable loose, tightened negative cable back up, and seemed to fix problem. Day later, same symptoms return after driving on hwy trip for 3 hours. Check battery cables, and they are all tight. Don't see any frayed wires. 10 mins. later try again, and luckily get it to start and I haven't done anything but try the key again.

     

    Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,744
    I think you are making too much out of this timing belt issue. I would not tempt fate and I would change mine at or before 105,000 miles.

     

    Still, we change these all of the time at 150,000 miles or more. I personally inspected one with 170,000 plus miles and it wasn't cracked or frayed. Still, who knows how long it would have gone.

     

    Not worth taking a chance but nothing to get overally worked up over either.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Anyone have a possible solution for this one? Have a 95 EX w/ 115k miles. New battery 2 months ago. Go to start and get no response, no lights on the dash, can't start, no power for locks, radio, nothing. Dealer inspected, said battery cable loose, tightened negative cable back up, and seemed to fix problem. Day later, same symptoms return after driving on hwy trip for 3 hours. Check battery cables, and they are all tight. Don't see any frayed wires. 10 mins. later try again, and luckily get it to start and I haven't done anything but try the key again.

      

    Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas?


     

    There are a few things you can look at. One is main relay, if the 95 had one. Or the ignition switch. It could be as simple as the switch harness is not plugged into the main harness tightly, or as bad as the main relay or wire in the harness shorting out. But since you did not mention any blown fuses, I would assume there is a bad connection between battery and the main switch/relay. Try wiggling the key next time it does not start. If you get a response, then it is the switch. If you are set to do it yourself, you may want to arm with a Helms' electrical manual for your car. It would have detailed electrical diagrams.

     

    You can take the ignition switch apart, there will be a plastic switch at the end of the lock cylinder, you will see two low gauge wires coming to it, amongst other wires, you can try and connect them to see if the main power comes to life.
  • Hello all, I have a 1995 Integra... (would have posted there, but this thread is much busier - and my car is basically a civic anyway.)

     

    I have read through the messages and seen a few postings that are similar to my problem, but I was hoping someone would have some experience like mine. Car has 120,000 miles on it, and has really been very reliable as I have owned it for the past three years. I have almost always driven a standard transmission, so I don't think my driving is the root of my problem.

     

    Here's whats happening: On takeoff into first gear, sometimes the clutch shudders so bad, it feels like wheel hop - unless I keep my rpms way up and slowly ride the clutch (which I don't really want to do) until the car is moving. The dashboard even shakes a little from this effect. Shifts into second gear are not quite as pronounced - but I can still feel the same thing happening. At highway speeds, if I downshift and ride the rpms down to slow down at highway speeds, the car rocks forward and backward pretty hard (and is REALLY annoying). This also of course happens at idle in gear in bad traffic, which I get a LOT of.

     

    I think this is probably a motor mount, but the car is either burning a little oil, or leaking it (I have to add a quart every 2000 miles) - so I GUESS it could be the rear seal - though I don't see leaks on the ground. I don't think my clutch is going bad, as if I work it really hard, I can get a second gear scratch without much slippage at the flywheel, but the car did do a nasty torque oversteer to the left when I was checking to see if the clutch was slipping using this method. - I could probably live with this problem if the expense of the repair was excessive, but if it's a motor mount, how much you guys think it would cost? Is there a tried and true way to see if your mounts are bad?

     

    Thanks for your insight!

    -Pete
  • looking for an answer please is surging caused by the fuel regulator valve or the throttle positioning sensor
  • lynzlynz Posts: 1
    Hi. My 2001 Honda Civic EX had about 70,000 miles on it when the automatic transmission decided that it had had enough. I took it to the Honda dealer, and they told me it would be $2900 plus tax. I had purchased the car new from this dealer, so I talked with the head of the service department, and they ended up paying for the full cost of the new transmission. I didn't have the extended warranty or anything, and I didn't at all get rude with the manager. There is a Service Bulletin out for this type of trouble, and I think that Honda is definitely willing to cover some if not all of the cost of a transmission replacement.
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