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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • ainsworthainsworth Posts: 1
    My sons 1995 Civic LX sstarts and runs fine - after about 10-15 minutes, the reservoir starts bubling over! I see no leaks in any hoses - both fans turn on at different times when they are supposed to - the temp gauge seems fine until it starts bubling over, then it moves to 1/2 way up (I turn it off quickly so I do not toast the head gasket). I am thinking it is the thermostat not functioning correctly - what think you ? :confuse:
  • Could someone please help? When my car is at a stop, it feels like it has a lot of power and I have to really step on the brake because I feel like it's going to take off. Notice the RPM isn't as low as it should be. Put the car on "park" and then stepped on the gas to see if the RPM would go up and then down again and it just stayed at the top. What could it possibly be, how much do the parts cost, and is it very expensive to repair? Could it be something minor or is it something major like the transmission. :cry:
  • Just by the symptoms I mentioned, mechanic thinks it's the carburator but it got that replaced 1 1/2 yrs. ago and have put 12000 or less miles on it. Hopefully, it's something minor and not the carburator. Can't take another $$$$ caburbator.
  • stevek75stevek75 Posts: 1
    my son is leaving in a 1/2 hour for a long trip and I can't seem to find out how to check the transmission fluid in the 5 speed manusl- please answer ASAP thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • I have a manual 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback SI, I bought the car used with 177,000 miles on it, its a 5-speed engine. The engine shakes very badly, I tried putting new oil, PVC Valve but nothing helped, Does anybody know what might be the problem here? also, there is sometimes smoke coming from where you check the oil. also, i think the battery is about 6 years old so if changing the battery, do you think it would stop the shaking? so if anybody can help me out of why the engine shakes please do, thanks...
  • stan9stan9 Posts: 1
    I have a Honda Civic which is almost 7 years old. It only has 9000 miles on it. I drive it infrequently because I live in Washington, DC and take the metro ie., trains. The car is in, I think, perfect condition. It has the original tires on the car and it looks like they have plenty of thread. I am thinking about taking a long trip. I have been reading some reports that tires should be replaced after 6 years regardless of the mileage on the tire and how much tread it has. Should I have my original tires that came with the car replaced?

    Stan
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Posts: 163
    This is kind of a tricky one.....It will be near the bottom on the left hand side looking at the front of the vehicle. What you actually have to do is open up the drain plug which is a bolt horizontally attached to the transmission. Then feel in there to see if the oil is filled to the bottom of that hole. If it is then you are fine! There is no dipstick on a manual though like there is on an automatic.
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Posts: 163
    I would recommend listening to this report. Over time rubber tends to dry out and eventually start to rot. They may not hold up on a long trip. For your own safety spend the extra $200 or so and get em replaced!
  • jere39jere39 Posts: 20
    I searched this discussion thread and did not find this topic. A couple weeks ago, all four Power Windows on my 1996 Civic EX Sedan failed at the same time. (Fortunately in the full up position). Neither does any of the driver door switches work, nor the window lock on the driver door. Since failure, I've checked, rechecked, and rotated all identified fuses under the dash, and under the hood. I've swapped relays under the hood too. Nothing changes the simple symptom, i.e. the switches do not lower the windows. There is no sound, suggesting any motors are attempting to lower stuck windows, nothing. It seems to me this must be some problem in a point of common electrical control, but I can't find it. I should add the sun roof works fine. As the weather in PA finally seems to be getting warm, I sure wish I could open a window. I do have A/C, but I prefer fresh air.
    I have been advised that there may be a relay, or fuse, or switch problem inside the driver side door. I'd be willing to take the inside door panel off, but experience tells me it is easier to do if you know the right sequence to remove a couple screws, and pop the trim clips, and I don't.

    I'd appreciate either of:
    1) Advice regarding possible power window repair ideas
    2) Advice for removing the drivers side door panel to look for/at any switch/fuse/relay inside there.

    Thanks,
    Jere
  • rich12rich12 Posts: 1
    I bought a 2002 Honda Civic 3 years ago, new. I have experienced the same or similar problem three times. The first time I thought the floor mat might be the problem and threw it out but it has happened twice again, most recently yesterday. The first two times I had just started the engine and put it in reverse while my foot was on the brake; the engine suddenly went into high rpm and lurched backwards, only restrained by pressing hard on the brakes. After restarting the engine, everything was normal. Yesterday, exiting the freeway, I braked for the ramp which should have (and probably did) disengage the cruise control. Suddenly the engine roared; I braked very hard and glanced at the tachometer and saw it was revving to about 3000 rpm. I continued to brake hard, put it into neutral and turned off the ignition, then immediately restarted it to get out of traffic. Scares the you-know-what out of me. I'll be taking the car to the dealer later this week if I can get off work long enough,but your experience with the dealer leaves me pessimistic.
  • desmond1desmond1 Posts: 2
    engine vibrations are often engine mounts or the car can't process it's oxigen fuel mixture. Check the air filter to see if the car can breathe, after that if you have done a basic tune-up (new pvc valve, spark plugs&wires, new cap and roter for your distributer, oil change, fluid check, ect... Look at the rubber mounts that hold your engine to the car. After all that I would suggest a shop because there are too many possibilities, bad tires, shaking while stopping would be the disc brakes telling you the roters need to be machined, pretty cheap. Clogged fuel filter would cause mostly sputtering and hesitation when accellerating, don't care about spelling, just trying to help
  • desmond1desmond1 Posts: 2
    I've had the same problem, and got a little creative with electrical grease. I have a fuel inj. 1988 and the only thing that worked for me was starter spray 4 seconds streight down the choke and the ignighter is located in the distributer and I put a pea sized amount of electrical grease where the knob sticks out inside the distributer directly above the roter to help the electrical current and after a few spins, o.k. maybe more than a few, it finally kicked over. I also put the grease where your supposed to put it, on the ends of my spark plug wires. whatever helps...
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I got both alternators at Napa Autoparts....My alternator was not cheap $300+ being that it is only a one year alternator for that car. Both alternators were tested at the shop and passed, the first one lasted about 2 1/2 weeks before it failed. The guy at the shop said it was charging then discharging. I'm accelerating normally, it just doesn't seem to be going into gear as it should be. It goes into 1st and 2nd gear fine, but after that, the needle just bounces up an down when breaking. When I break it drops from 2,500 to 1,000 and kinda jumps to 1,500 while still decreasing in speed. If it is computer or mechanical related is it an expensive thing to fix? The car is only four years old. My warrenty ended too...would it be cheaper for me to get another warrenty with Honda, or should I just take it to a shop?

    It is diffuclt to diagnose ofver the internet, but I can suggest you try Honda OEM Alernator. Try online parts shops, like HandA and Fair Honda. You would have to call them for the price on the part, but it will be cheaper than your local dealer. Honda designed the 7th generation alternators to be "free wheeling" when battery is 100-85% charged. The "freewheeling" is achieved through the voltage regulator, which I believe is built into the alternator. I am not sure if aftermarket replacements have the same circuitry as OEM.

    As far as the tranny goes. Is it manual or Auto? Sounds like Auto going through the "grade logic" algorithm. The car is basically downshifting like a manual would, to assist in braking.
  • jwmahoneyjwmahoney Posts: 4
    The shop manual calls for a special tool to hold the crank shaft pulley while loosening the bolt to remove the pulley. Is there a better way? Is the special tool really necessary? Is this tool readily available?

    John Mahoney
  • yleecoyoteyleecoyote Posts: 32
    Do some general internet searches on this and you will find a few sites that deal with this question. This bolt is very tight. I don't have my manual with me, but it seems that on the 2001 the instruction for tightening this bolt is something like tighten to 45 foot pounds and then turn it another 180 degrees. That is torque!
    I bought the tool from one of the on-line speed shops, I think it is a Moroso brand, around $80. Knowing the torque involved, I wouldn't go with anything that is low quality. After the crank is held, there are stories of people standing on very long cheater bars trying to loosen the bolt.
    One of the best solutions that I have heard of is to take it to a garage that can apply the proper impact wrench to loosen the bolt. Have them retighten enough for you to drive home and complete the job yourself.
  • a few weeks ago, i took my honda civic 87 to mechanic due to leak in radiator.
    they suggested to install a new radiator, so i did.
    then next day, it overheat again, so i took my car again, and fixed a fan.
    when i picked up my car, a mechanic said my temperature gauge read higher than actual temperature.
    so i drove for 30mins, it goes to RED.
    engine doesn't seem that hot, and i just fixed the radiator and fan, so shouldn't overheat anyway,
    but every time i see the needle point RED i get nervous.
    i dont really want to pay again to check radiator, any suggestion?
    thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    a few weeks ago, i took my honda civic 87 to mechanic due to leak in radiator.
    they suggested to install a new radiator, so i did.
    then next day, it overheat again, so i took my car again, and fixed a fan.
    when i picked up my car, a mechanic said my temperature gauge read higher than actual temperature.
    so i drove for 30mins, it goes to RED.
    engine doesn't seem that hot, and i just fixed the radiator and fan, so shouldn't overheat anyway,
    but every time i see the needle point RED i get nervous.
    i dont really want to pay again to check radiator, any suggestion?
    thanks


    Although it is possible that the gauge is faulty, I would not rule out the coolant flow problem as the cause. Either water pump is not pumping it, or there is blockage somewhere, such as stuck thermostat, or calcium build up from using tap water, and non-Honda branded antifreeze.
  • jwmahoneyjwmahoney Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information!
    Appreciate your quick response

    John
  • dman2123dman2123 Posts: 1
    i am having a the same problem with my 90 crx. my temp goes up and down in the afternoon but in the morning it stays where it should be. i cant figure out what the problem is any help would be appreciated
  • delsolmomdelsolmom Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Del Sol - Just yesterday I had the radiator replaced, the timing belt and the water pump - Basically I knew I had a hairline fracture in the radiator and I was losing coolant but I was watching it and the engine temp - Then on Tues Im sitting in brutal stop and go traffic and I start to see the temp gauge creep up - So I get off the freeway and into town traffic and the engine temp went down to normal - So I decided thats the sign time to take her in - The temp never went into the red btw -
    So because of her age and also the fact that I had been putting off the timing belt I decided what the heck get all of it done now - So I pick up the car yesterday from the shop and the mechanic tells me it never overheated no leaks everything checks out but keep an eye on the temp gauage because while the car never went red I still could have warped the head gasket (another pricey repair) - So I drive her home putting some stress on the engine by running the AC and the temp stays rock solid so Im pretty cheerful until Im almost home and I get off the freeway and Im sitting at a light only to watch the temp start to creep up again - Off goes the AC - Off goes everything I flip the heater on but dont turn on the fans and the engine temp drops right back down to its normal position and stays there for the remainder of my trip - I get home park the car and turn on the AC just to see if it stresses the engine nope not even a flicker of temp gauge creep - Nothing.

    Drive to work this morning and because Im paranoid I kept the heater on but no fans and the temp gauage was exactly where it should be both freeway and town sitting at lights - I live in Texas and the summer heat is rough on cars so any one got any advice for me - And if you really think its a head gasket (be gentle).
    :cry:
  • HI,

    I'm posting for a friend. She took her '97 Civic to a mechanic and he said the snake belt was gone and that it goes at around 70,000 miles in Civics. He also said it would cost her $400 and if she went to a dealer it would be $700. I haven't looked around for prices yet, but even still it sounds high. I got a chevy snake belt for about 125 a couple years ago. Does anyone know about this trend of snake belts going at 70,000 in Civics?

    Any help would be appreciated,

    Mike
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Sounds like you have a bad cooling fan, fan relay, or the temp sensor that turns the fans on. Not very hard to troubleshoot and cheaper to replace than the head gasket.

    In my experience the head gasket would have reared it's ugly head on the freeway at the higher RPM's. Overheating while idling usually signals a cooling system problem.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,693
    Never heard of a "snake" belt?

    If you are talking about your timing belt, those need to be replaced on a 97 Civic at 105,000 miles or seven years whichever comes first. It's due now because of the years. These never "go" at 70,000 miles so you were given bad information by this mechanic. While they are "in there" it's a good thing to replace the drive belts and water pump too.
  • andrew9andrew9 Posts: 4
    I just bought a 2005 Civic Ex 5spd coupe. The car had about 300 miles on it when I noticed that the transmission makes a soft whining noise when I am cruising at low RPM. It is noticable when I take off from a stop from about 1500-3000 RPM. Im not sure if this is normal and I am hearing the noise just because the motor is so incredebly quiet or if this is a potential problem. This is the first manual front wheel drive vehicle that I have owned, is this normal?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    HI,

    I'm posting for a friend. She took her '97 Civic to a mechanic and he said the snake belt was gone and that it goes at around 70,000 miles in Civics. He also said it would cost her $400 and if she went to a dealer it would be $700. I haven't looked around for prices yet, but even still it sounds high. I got a chevy snake belt for about 125 a couple years ago. Does anyone know about this trend of snake belts going at 70,000 in Civics?

    Any help would be appreciated,

    Mike


    Serpentine belt is not timing belt and should not cost $400 or $700 to replace. Timing belt on the other hand does cost about that. I am with isellhonda, the timing belt should be replaced due to age at this point, even if she is not up to the miles. While they are at it, they should replace the water pump. The part it self is about $100, but labor is $400 when done by itself. Since they are replacing the timing belt already, they could replace the water pump and you just pay for the parts.

    What is the "snake belt" never heard of it? If it is Serpentine belt, it should not cost $400 to replace, not even at the dealer. Call the dealer and ask them how much it wold cost to replace the serpentine belt, instead of guessing. I would estimate it costing about $100, considering the $80/hour labor charge at the dealer. It should be half of that at the independant shop. Serpentine belt is an easy DIY job for $10-$15 in parts.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,693
    Civics don't use a serpentine belt.

    These aren't as easy to change on some cars as you may think either!
  • I hear water swishing back and forth behind my seat when I turn a sharp corner. Is there any way to drain this water? How could the water be getting into my car? I hear the sound behind me, so could the loose seal around my front windshield be the cause? How do I get the seal around the windshield fixed? How much does something like that cost?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I hear water swishing back and forth behind my seat when I turn a sharp corner. Is there any way to drain this water? How could the water be getting into my car? I hear the sound behind me, so could the loose seal around my front windshield be the cause? How do I get the seal around the windshield fixed? How much does something like that cost?

    Did you touch the carpets to see if they are wet? Are you sure it is water you are hearing and not the tires? Doesn't del sol come with T-tops? Did you replace a windshield recently? Have you thought about using shop vac to suck up the water, if it is water? How about just leaving the car open the let it air dry? Does it smell mildewy?
  • I bet its the gas splashing around inside the gas tank...I get a similar sound behind me when I shut off the car, especially right after I fill it up.
  • jwmahoneyjwmahoney Posts: 4
    THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION AND QUICK REPLY.
    IS THERE AN IMPACT WRENCH AVAILABLE THAT WILL LOOSEN THIS BOLT WITHOUT USING A CRANK SHAFT HOLDER?
This discussion has been closed.