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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Instead of ripping them off, why not put some metal hose clamps around them to tighten them up and stop the noise. One medium size one works for the b pipe and two usally work around most cats depending on the size of the clamp. There easy to install and shields can remain in place....
  • He can try that but it might be too late. When mine started dragging on the ground the heat shield was completely corroded and rusted out and was totally useless.
  • I am going to take a look this weekend & see if they can be clamped in place first. Thanks-
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    Warm up your vehicle on a cold morning. Get the lubrication flowing freely before you put a load on the drive train and the engine. If "warm - up" is not important, then why do people who own boats warm up their marine inboard and / or I/O engine to normal operating temperature before leaving the dock? ----- Just my opinion. ----Greg
  • i am about to buy a type r (old shape ek9) and have been told the top speed is restricted?
    does any one know how this is done and if its possible to remove the restriction?
    if so email me on powisontour@hotmail.com
    that would be a great help!
  • I finally was able to get under my Civic over the weekend. The front heat shield already had 2 hose clamps on it ....forgot I installed those a while back.

    I removed the clamps & heat shield up front.

    Underneath the feet of the back seat passengers, but in front of the Cat converter "appears" to be heat shield #2. It is only on top of the exhaust pipe. I also found another shield that was more like sheet metal shaped like the letter L. I was not able to remove that shield.

    The muffler appears to have a heat shield on top of it...presumably to keep heat away from the gas tank.

    After 2 test drives, I still hear the rattle, but not as bad as before. The sound only happens at about 45-50mph, when I take my foot off the gas.

    Sounds like something is vibrating against metal, but just for a second or so.

    Not sure what else to do. It's my wife's car, so she will have to deal with it. When she rattles enough about it, I will take the car to the dealer.

    Thanks again for the posts-
  • Warming up your vehicle at idle before driving is not necessary on vehcles today. In fact, if you do that too often you have an outside chance of damaging your engine. My uncle works for GM in the powertrain division and when they first rolled out the Saturn lineup they had a major problem with the engines in the SC2/SL2 model. The engine had a design flaw in it, that when at idle, the engine was not splashing the oil around enough inside the valve cover causing inadequate lubrication which led to the engine burning oil and/or engine failure. Bottom line, follow the owners manual where it tells you that you do not have to have a warm up period in your car.
    Greg, just wanted to point this out to you, you can do as you please with it. I remember you talking about how you used premium fuel in your cars. I don't know what kind of climate you are in during the winter months. My local news had a story on winter survival tips on the road, and they said that regular fuel makes for easier starts in the cold due to it being more combustable at lower temperatures than premium fuel. Just wanted to share that with you.

    About the Civic type-R....A lot of vehicles today are speed limited electronically. I don't know about your case since you said it was older. However if you find out yours is electronically controlled then you need to replace the chip with a racing chip.
      
    Good day all...Nick
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    Nick, you are correct about Saturn engines. They do have an "oil problem", but let's explore this oil issue a little further. If the engine suffers from a "design flaw" with regards to "lubrication at idle", then driving this vehicle in traffic would cause the engine to self-destruct, because the engine would be at "idle" some of the time under load. In addition, summer driving would be an additional problem, because of the AC system in use at "idle". Taxi cabs in New York City do a lot of idling, yet they get 100,000 miles out of an engine. The reason being, that they do frequent oil and filter changes, and maybe some are running on synthetic oil. Most cabs go through three engines before they are taken to the "grave yard"! If you check some of the "Saturn Sites" you will find some VERY unhappy people who feel that the "engine quality" is lacking in the vehicle. I have been driving since 1960, and I have owned Ford, GM, Chrysler,AMC, Jeep and Honda vehicles all of which I warmed - up on cold mornings, and I never had an engine problem with these vehicles. QUESTIONS: ----How much fuel are you going to use on a cold winter morning to allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature? ----How can anyone operate a vehicle without heat from the defroster system on the windows? ----In order for an Automatic Tansmission to shift properly, the fluid must be able to flow through the valve body freely. This connot occur when it is cold! -----Just my opinion. ----Have a nice day. ----Greg
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Usally you can bang around enough on the exhaust to locate and repair the noise but sometimes the rattle is internal and to fix you need to replace. Good luck
  • dudkadudka Posts: 451
    Gregory, warming up the engine does not warm up the transmission flud. Only the engine oil and coolant.
    How can one operate a vehicle without a defroster? the rear defroster is electric and if you had not switched to "recirculate" your windows should not fog up. The defrost mode on the HVAC system activates A/C, which draws the moisture away from the glass before it has a chance to condence.

    How may times have you seen a car on the road with the windows all fogged up, only because the driver was cold and chose to switch the intake to "recurculate", then the moisture froze up on the cold glass.

    How much fule do you burn? The strat up alone uses more fuel than regular driving. Then you are sitting at 1500 RPM for 5-10 minutes, that 0 MPG's, more pollutants in the air while your engine is not being productive. Heat is the waste product of internal combustion engine, not its primary function. If you are uncomfortable driving a cold vehicle, get a ceramic heater.

    When you warm up the engine and then drive off with the transmission still cold, the bearings are still cold, and so on, you are doing worse than you would have had the engine been cold. A cold engine is controlled by the PCM, it i snot producing full power, while a warmed engine is producing full power, but the rest of the drive train is still cold and not well lubricated. Think of it that way. If you start the car, let her idle for minute or two and then drive off, everything is on the same playing level, but when you fast idle for 10 minutes, the engine is warm, but the rest of the car is not.
    Just my $0.02
  • snarkssnarks Posts: 207
    Automatic transmisions don't warm up idling (very well) but manuals do once you let the clutch out. I find it wasteful environmentally to warm up a car(more pollution emitted during warm up and its quicker to warm up by driving). Its too bad Honda does not put seat heaters in the Civic a solution to waste. I guess you have to purchase an Accord EX/leather. People I know including myself in Golf I used to own never warm up car with those, the seats heat up nearly instantly.

    Just drive slow and easy to speed whatever it may be. I drive 2 minutes with a stone cold motor onto highway and slowly ease up to 75 MPH. I have hot heat at around 50 MPH during accelaration during merging.

    If you are happy warming up a car thats fine, it symbolizes the waste/excess in the USA. Ask a european, they never understand the excessive idling for no apparent reason here.
  • sejinrosejinro Posts: 20
    Just bought a 2004 Civic Coupe EX with manual transmission. My previous car was a 2002 Toyota Camry (4 cylinder and auto trans), but I gave the car to my parents as gift as their car was getting old. With the Camry, at 60 mph, the RPM was right below 3000 RPM, but with the Civic, the RPM is around 3500 RPM. Is there something wrong with my car? I assumed that with a 5-speed transmission, at 60 MPH, the RPM would be lower.
  • celica115celica115 Posts: 169
    I believe so. My 04 LX auto and 02 WRX manual both run 60mph at 2600 - 2700 RPM. Even my 1990 Celica GT manual runs 60mph at 2750 RPM. My friend's 00 Camry auto is around 2600 RPM at this speed. I guess your manual Civic should run 75+ mph at 3500 RPM (5th gear of course). Just guessing, other EX owners please input your info. It is interesting, thanks.
  • Hi. I own a 04 Civic EX Coupe Auto. It has around 450 miles on it. From the day I drove it out from the dealership, (not a local one, so all services and maintanence would be done at a closer shop) I noticed that it made some noises...like a high pitch whine at initial acceleration, a low pitch buzzing also during initial acceleration, and a trickling noise at random instances. All of these noises are rather faint, so only people with very healthy ears could hear them. I definitely could.

    So earlier today I sent in my car for a service appointment, and told the rep exactly what I had experienced. He noted them down and said that a technician would test-drive my car to see if he/she could verify the sounds. So hours later, I get the call and the rep. says that the technician couldn't reporduce ANY of the noises I've heard, and that it was no different than any other brand new Civic. But the guy still offered me to come along to a test drive and personally 'show' them what I hear.

    Should I go through the trouble, or just accept that maybe my ears are too sensitive and that I'm overreacting to things? I just hope that it's not the other senario where the technician is partially deaf from running those power drills inches away from his ears...
  • I don't know about Accords Greg, but I know my Civic will never reach operating temperature on a cold day with the heat/defrosters running by letting it just sit in the driveway. I know this because when my temp gauge just barely gets to the normal range, if I stop at a light with the heat running I will actually see my temp gauge drop down some. I have to agree with everyone else about the transmissions and once again I also want to comment on what the owners manual says about 5 speeds (which is what I have). It says something to the effect of, shifting will be a bit stiffer on a cold morning. This is normal and does not harm the car. To answer your questions...I would use infinite amounts of fuel to get my car to operating temperature because it will never reach operating temperature by just sitting there idling with the defroster taking away all the heat from the heat exchanger. I would rather just get in the car and drive in the cold for a few minutes getting 15-20 mpg instead of 0 mpg. 3. I have no need for defrosters since my car is garaged. :) Have a nice day all..Nick
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    You made a good point! Since you keep your car in a garage, you have no need to "warm it up". It is out of the wind and the cold! ---- I agree with you! ---- Have a nice day. ---- Greg
  • dalawdalaw Posts: 37
    02 Camry right below 3000 rpm at 60 mph is a little high. 04 Civic at 3500 rpm is also high. Are you sure you are in the top gear? I think I read in Motortrend about the 03 Camry 4 cyl AT revs at about 2100 rpm at 60 mph, and from the same magazine, an 02 Civic LX 5-spd revs at 2500 rpm.

    Here is a list of cars I've driven in my family and the RPM I observed at 60 mph:

    03 Civic LX AT: 2400 rpm
    01 Accord 4-cyl LX AT: 2250 rpm
    00 Camry V6 AT: 2200 rpm
    97 Altima AT: 2050 rpm
  • Wow I am surprised noone including you responded to my previous message given that we had the same issue.. Anyhow, I have exactly the same problem with my 04 civic coupe. Took it to the dealer twice. I drove around with the technician. First he heard the faint noise, but he said he had to check it to see if it was abnormal or not. Supposedly, there was air in the coolant system and that the noise was gone after the air was taken out! It's still there though. Maybe I am hearing noises like you too. My friend said it's prolly not a biggie. So I gave up. I turn on the music and press the gas medal. It still bugs me sometimes but oh well...maybe i am too anal!
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    When an engine is "idling" in neutral or park, the torque converter is spinning and moving the fluid in the automatic transmission, so as such, "heat" is being created in the automatic transmission due to "slippage" between the "drive" and "driven" member of the torque converter. This action, together with the heat that is being transferred from the block of the engine, will warm up the automatic transmission case and the fluid. The transmission will shift smoother when it is warm. -----Just my opinion. ----Have a nice day. ----Greg
  • sejinrosejinro Posts: 20
    Thanks for the posts so far. The last couple of days, the RPM/MPH relationship has changed now. Now I am at:

    60 MPH 3000 RPM
    75 MPH 3600 RPM

    Maybe I have the "break" the car in or something. Is there a RPM calculator on the Internet? Yes, I am in 5th gear. Maybe because the engine is VTEC and I do know that Civic LX is not VTEC. Does VTEC somehow cause the engine to run at higher RPMs?
This discussion has been closed.