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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have a 98DX Hatchback. My A/C does not work. The compressor will come on if I ground it. Then I turn off the switch it stays on. It even blows cold. I unhook the ground that I put on it and it doesnt even come on if I push the A/C button the light comes on but no compressor. I dont want to have it hooked up manually because it will run all the time. Could this be a relay, or switch problem. Any I ideas. Thanks

    You are either low on the refrigerant, or the low refrigerant switch is stuck.
  • I've recently purchased a 2005 Honda Civic LX and I have no idea how to optimize my gas mileage...higher RPM's, lower RPM's, full tank, empty tank - I have NO idea??? My first tank seemed to have gone much further then my second tank and I have no idea what I've done differently?

    I was amazed at how much information is available in these forums but I haven't found anything (yet) that helps me out on this specific problem. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? I'm a automobile novice (dummy if you may) and I need your help.

    Thanks so much.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,012
    This article may be helpful to start.

    Save Money on Gas

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    An '02 Civic LX 2 door with 13K miles just had the second window regulator replaced. Parts people say this is very common. Has anyone else had one of these go out? Has anyone gotten Honda to stand the repair a few months after the 36 month warranty ran out? I would expect this failure in a Yugo, but not a Honda!
  • kpmustkpmust Posts: 1
    car bucks while idling and starting out, also the rpm's will race up as you are driving at speeds of 35-45 mph
  • henrylhenryl Posts: 15
    Where is the low refrigerant switch located? It is full of freon I had the system vaccumed and then recharged but still wont turn on. Is this a dealer part or can I get it at a local parts house.
  • I have a few questions:

    What kind of noise does a blown strut make?
    How much does a new front strut cost for a Honda Civic '02?
    How much would be labor for installing this strut?

    Thanks.
  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    CO! CO! spells carbon monoxide. Any exhaust leak should be fixed! CO is a silent odorless killer, so don't take a chance. A bit late with this but just was browsing and saw it. Take care of yourself and your Honda.
  • I have a 1991 Honda Civic 4 Door DX and I have the same problem. The mechanic cannot figure out the problem (could be the starter switch or the starter ), so he has installed a diagonistic light which comes on everytime I crank the starter on. This hopefully will narrow down the issue the next time it happens. It has been a few weeks now and the problem has not resurfaced yet.
    I will let you know if I find out, let me know if you were able to find out as well.
    Thanks
    nt
  • I found the cause of this issue . It is your main relay. Check this site for all the details for cause, and how to repair.
    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm
    Regards..
    nt
  • 502502 Posts: 1
    I have an 86 dx hatchback and I want to lower it without cutting the springs, but I cant find any lowering springs anywhere. how can I lower my car without messing up the ride?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,796
    you can't avoid messing up the ride if you cut the springs and you will definitely need a shock absorber that is made for the lower springs or you'll break them. You could buy an entire coil over kit but that's $$.

    MODERATOR

  • bxtombxtom Posts: 1
    hey jere, I've been having the almost same exact problem on my 96 civic ex coupe. Taking off the panels is really no big deal. God knows I've had them both off several times attempting to find out the problem. If you'd like I can e-mail you (if you don't have it already) the part of the manual that covers this topic. It's really straightforward. As far as what I've attempted, I went to a junkyard and bought the driver's side main window switch (no change); checked all the usual stuff...relays, fuses, switches blah blah blah. The only way I can get my windows to go up or down is by taking off the door panels to get to the wires that go to the window motor and jumping them with a 12 volt battery charger. No luck yet with any of it, and I refuse to pay a dealership big bucks for an almost 10 year old car. The only piece of advice I heard (and haven't yet tried) is that the wires that pass through the door and into the car (where the hinge is) might be crimped, broken or damaged in some way. Might be worth looking into. Keep me posted.
    Tom
  • 02 civic lx 31,000.
    So my issue began a few weeks ago after a 5 hour drive I stopped for dinner for about an hour. After dinner my ac didn't work. The light was on, but only blew the fan air. The next morning it worked fine and I brought it in to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. A few weeks later I did a seven hour drive one day and everything was fine. After stopping for around 11 hours, the next morning I got in the car and the same issue. I drove for about 8 hours and the AC would come in and out through out the drive. I brought it back into a dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
    Yesterday, I got in the car and same issue. The dealer checked the car out for the better part of two hours and after not finding anything wrong, decided to replace a pressure switch. Later that night, the ac stopped working. It didn't work when I got in the car today, but after driving for about an hour it would come in and out. Usually it would come on for about 10 seconds or so. It did that maybe four times and finally stayed on for the rest of the drive (25 minutes or so).
    Does anyone have a clue what this might be???
    thanks
  • I got a code reading of "PO135 (Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)" on my 98 Civic LX w/manual trans. Can someone please interpret this for me? Does this simple mean I need to replace the o2 sensor and is bank 1 sensor 1 the sensor located right in front when the hood is up?

    Thanks

    (I understand I may not be descriptive enough...)
  • jbowmanjbowman Posts: 2
    We removed the support bracket on the intake manifold a week ago to fix an electrical problem, now the bracket is gone. I am looking around for a replacement (hopefully from a salvage yard, no luck yet). In the mean time, is it ok to be driving around without the bracket? Should I limit my driving and the distances that I drive (I was planning a day trip about 70 miles from my house this week, should I cancel?).
  • mbotmbot Posts: 6
    thanks for the advice... i ended up getting it fixed this weekend, and i had to replace the whole pipe, since it was rusted where the crack was and could not be welded back together... from the position of the crack no CO would leak into the cabin, but i am still releaved to have it fixed
  • Hi,
    My Honda does the exact same thing, and i live in Vegas, where it gets to over 110 degrees, and I got locked out completely one day. I was told by the Honda guys that I needed an actuator on the fron door, which controls the other 3 doors, but when I had them put it in, it only worked on the driver's side. Now they are telling me I need 4, which costs 55 per door plus labor. Not cool... I am in the process of contacting Honda to see if they can remedy this, as the mechanics neglected to tell me I might need all 4 doors done.
  • dudette3dudette3 Posts: 39
    Hi. I have an 01 Civic, and am checking into brake pad replacement. The car has 63K (mostly highway). Anyways, I got a brake inspection the other day, and the front right pad is quite worn down (outboard side is worn down, the inboard is fine). The left front pads are barely worn down at all.

    I am trying ot understand what could cause this to happen?

    I am going to take my brakes in for pad replacement, but i certainly want to make sure that they are working properly in addition. I have an extended warranty, and would think that if it is a mechanical problem, it should be covered. I want ot understand it better though, so I can speak intelligently about iit ..

    if you have any suggestions as what could be causing this type of uneven brake pad wear, I would really apprecaite it.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Usually caused by the caliper hanging up on it's slide pins. Didn't you like the answers you got in "Stop Here, Let's Talk About Brakes"?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    An '02 Civic LX 2 door with 13K miles just had the second window regulator replaced. Parts people say this is very common. Has anyone else had one of these go out? Has anyone gotten Honda to stand the repair a few months after the 36 month warranty ran out? I would expect this failure in a Yugo, but not a Honda!

    I had window regulators fail on the 2002 Si in the first 6 months of ownership. I called Honda corporate and complained. They offered lifetime warranty on the window regulators. What ever questions you have, you should address to Honda corporate, rather than the dealer. Dealer does not like warranty work becuase Honda does not pay them $80/hour they can charge you.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Where is the low refrigerant switch located? It is full of freon I had the system vaccumed and then recharged but still wont turn on. Is this a dealer part or can I get it at a local parts house.

    You wold have to refer to the shop manual for specifics. I know the general idea of how things function. Not specifics of each vehicle. That is what shop manual is for.
  • Jere, I got the exact same problem described that you have. My windshield cracked this past weekend and I had it replaced on Tuesday. I didn't drive the car again until Thursday. When I hopped in, the windows didn't work. I haven't had time to explore it much. I checked and swapped each of the fuses with no luck. I am wondering if the window repair didn't damage a wire somewhere in the framework and now it is shorting out the window power to the chasis. I will let you know what I find when I get some time to look into it. If you find anything else, please let me know.
  • I bought a new Honda Civic 5 months back.

    (1) In the maintanance schedule it says oil should be checked every time i fill gas.
    Is that necessary. I haven't been doing it at all.

    (2) I have a doubt regarding "severe" driving condition. I drive 2 miles to work 4 times
    a day.(morning, afternoon, evening). Is it severe. If that is the case, i think i should
    change my oil at 5000 miles. Is that right.

    (3) When i recently checked the oil, the oil level seemed to be below the minimum level.
    But i put only 2500 miles.

    I am not sure whether i am checking it correctly. Is it possible at 2500 miles, the oil
    level is less than the minimum.

    Thanks for your help. Just a little bit confused and want to take proper care
    of my car.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    mahesh123,

    1) You should check your oil at least every couple of weeks. Sooner couldn't hurt.
    2) Driving under 2 miles doesn't give the oil a chance to really warm up properly. Your Owner's Manual is correct in suggesting that you are therefore operating under the Severe schedule.
    3) Adding one quart of oil every 2,500 miles isn't excessive. Just check it regularly to see if there is a pattern. Make sure to wait a few minutes, after turning the engine off, to allow the oil to settle into the sump before using your dipstick to check the level.
  • Thanks for your time in responding.

    (1) I hope i should buy the oil from Honda dealer and fill it. I hope it is simple
    and can be done by myseflf ?

    (2) Is the same process applicable for coolant too ?

    (3) I must then replace the oil, at 5000 miles as recommended by Honda maintainance
    schedule ?
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    mahesh123,

    1) Your Owner's Manual specifies the grade and viscosity (weight) of oil needed for your car. You can buy it anywhere. Oil and Oil filter changes are not difficult, as long as you have the appropriate tools, room to work (you may need to buy a set of portable ramps to allow you to fit under the car). Most important is to properly recycle the old oil at a reputable collection center.

    2) Follow your Owner's Manual recommendations regarding frequency of coolant changes. It's a bit messier, so you may want to have that done in a service facility.

    3) Yes, based upon your severe type of driving, 5,000 mile intervals are indicated.
  • Blane,

    thanks for your response.

    I am a little bit confused....

    I think, if the oil level is less, i just need to add additional oil.(as indicated in your earlier
    mail).

    I think this is different than the oil change process (to be done at 5000 miles)

    (or) are they same process ?
  • I am having the same issue after having the dealer just change the high pressure switch because of the same symptoms. They said the next step is to change the thermal switch, then they can recheck the system and see if the compressor and or other related parts may be bad. If that is the case they said the cost is $1400 to replace.. Sounds kind of high since I know compressors are about $300 new. Let me know if you or anyone know of something different it could be.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    mahesh123,

    If your drinking water glass is half full, it is OK to add some more water in order to fill it up.

    Same thing with oil. Just fill it only to the correct mark on the dipstick.
This discussion has been closed.