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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • I've tried four different brands of wiper blades(including Honda) and my wiper blades skid across the windshield even during a heavy rain. However, some days they work ok with very little vibration which doesn't make sense at all.

     

    There was no problem with the original set of blades when I bought the car.

     

    This is driving me crazy! Can anyone help.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,475
    Two things:

     

    1. go back to the oem replacement blade and/or wiper.

     

    2. anymore, the constant noise of wipers drives me batty (over 5 models of cars, so it is not just Honda), so I have also taken to using a Rain X type product and use the intermittent wiper option when the rains are really bad.

     

    Maintenance items: most of the time, the rubber blade of the wiper's suffer most from neglect and/or trying to function them after they have been (glued) stuck to the windshield for a time. This of course contributes to, if not totally, tearing them. Periodic cleaning really extends the life. One trick is to separate them from the windshield if you park in the hot sun a lot. (the hot sun and usually black dash board act like a reflective oven to the blades sitting on the windshield). When the blades start to smear (best is BEFORE) another trick is to use the nylon part of the ubiquitous dish sponge to "scour" the old dead rubber off the blade.
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    Markj wrote:

    "...my wiper blades skid across the windshield..."

     

    I assume you mean what I call "chatter." At its worst it is not only visible, but audible, too, and very annoying.

     

    Clean glass and clean rubber blade inserts help minimize this problem.

     

    Clean the rubber blades weekly with isopropyl alcohol.

     

    Treat the windshield with Rain-X. It's an amazing product that really works. In fact, following a fresh application, you aren't likely to need your wipers at all, not even in the heaviest downpour. Try it, you'll see.

     

    The downside of Rain-X is that it doesn't seem to last much longer than one week for maximum benefit, although it continues to be functional beyond that.

     

    I just installed a new silicone blade on the huge 24" driver's side of our '02 Si ... and it chatters, too. It's not audible, but I can see it jerking its way across the glass as I watch it.

     

    You'd think someone would work out this business of cleaning auto windshields better in the rain, wouldn't you? After all, we can drive RC cars around the surface of Mars, for heaven's sake. Why can't we clean our windshields better here on earth?
  • This is a well-known defect in many '01 civics. I don't believe that there was ever a recall, but there were certainly service bulletins. Even though you're out of warranty, check with Honda, they might help you out, go halvsies, free labor, or something.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    There was someone a while back that got new front struts by just paying labor.
  • Not a single one of you has a damn thing to say about the speedometer?
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    You wrote:

    “My 01 Civic went for the 45K mile checkup. The shop said the front strut starts to leak. Cost to fix is about $300 or more.”

     

    I think that’s a reasonable price for that job if you need new struts, and it sounds as though you might need them.

     

    You wrote:

    “I can't really believe that such leak can happen so early. . .”

     

    Oh, sure. 45K miles is a lot of miles on a shock absorber, especially if the roads you traverse are not in good condition. Rough roads kill shocks quickly.

     

    Whether or not Honda has a recurrent problem with leaking struts/shocks is another issue, but either way (defective, or not) 45K miles on rough roads will use up your shocks.

     

    I suspect shocks are a much-neglected item that need replacement long before the average owner finally gets around to replacing them. They’re unlike, say, brake pads and tires, which call attention to themselves when they’re worn out, unlike shocks, which can continue on despite having died long before. I take it for granted that any of our cars with 50k miles would benefit from new shocks. So far, we’ve always sold our cars around that point, but I always recommend to the buyer that they get new shocks if I sell the car privately.

     

    You wrote:

    “. . .of course I am not very pleased with the road conditions I drive in the city. Can this be the cause of the struts wear that leads to the leak?”

     

    Yes. Absolutely.

     

    Your city sounds like mine. :-)

     

    You wrote:

    “Do I need Honda shop to fix it or get help from a non-Honda shop because of the original parts concern?”

     

    Either one is fine.

     

    In fact, I would encourage you to consider purchasing after-market shocks. There are many after-market shocks, which are far superior to the original equipment Honda shocks. Three big names that immediately come to mind are: Koni, Bilstein, and Tokiko. There are others as well.

     

    The advantages of these after-market shocks are that they: (1) will probably cost no more, maybe even less, than the Honda shocks; (2) will come with a lifetime warranty; and (3) will outperform the Honda shocks. You can even buy adjustable shocks, which allow you to tailor your shocks to your immediate driving requirements. “Soft,” for example, for urban commuting on rough streets, “Medium” for highway trips, and “Firm” for zooming around twisty country roads. Those cost more, of course.

     

    If you have any interest in improving the handling of your Civic, you might wish to read about these shocks and buy the ones meeting your needs. A word of caution, though: I would suggest you not be seduced into buying the “most sporting” shocks, since they will ride very hard. If a really harsh ride is no concern to you, and you accept it for the sporting benefits, then okay. My experience, though, is that what is fun at first with very stiff suspensions. . . grows old over time. You may find yourself wishing you’d chosen a softer shock. Something to think about, especially when reading the comments of the youngsters who often do extreme things to their Civics in search of maximum performance and the “right look.”

     

    The kids with their fast and furious “slammed” Civics will assure you that their cars ride just fine. Don’t believe them. They mean well, but their enthusiasm may have overcome their reason. But they’re happy with their cars, and that’s good; it’s fun. But it’s not the best solution for most drivers.

      

    You wrote:

    “I also noted some steering wheel vibration at about 55 mph, though I had the tire shop checked and rebalanced before, but the vibration is still a bit evident. Can this vibration be anything to do with the strut leak?”

     

    Yes. Absolutely.

     

    Worn (or leaking) shocks permit the wheel and tire to bounce up and down uncontrollably, getting progressively worse over time. I would expect the driver could sense vibration through the steering.

     

    It could always be that you have other problems, or a combination of problems, of course.

     

    I hope this has been helpful.
  • yo

     

    if you are wishing to change your shokx an not pay your $300,check out 'spax' or 'blistein' over here in the uk these two company offer very good prices for either-stiff or soft shock lowered or not lowered or fully adjustable,dont always go to your main honda dealer for parts there are always cheaper options but they offer a longer life span an are alot better quality,

    if your feeling the car aint driving right get your tracking down first of all as honda's have a little problem,,,,,the tracking is so easily knockd out.
  • Hello again everyone. I thought I would bring this up on the board especially for those of you that have to tough out cold climates over the next 3-4 months. As most of you know I own a 03 Civic EX coupe. It seems that the vehicle does not want to maintain proper water temperature in the cold when I am running the heater. It is fine when I'm driving, but if I get stopped at a traffic light idling for 3-5 minutes, the temp. gauge will start dropping. I found it especially peculiar that the temp. gauge did not rise at all this morning when I went in the garage to preheat the car (outside temp about 10 degrees F. (I know I stated previously that I was against this practice of preheating cars before driving them, but I was running a fever and had a big chill in me :( . This was after 20 minutes of the engine running with the heater on high. I wasn't expecting it to be to operating temperature, but when I got in the car the heater was barely blowing out anything worthwhile and the gauge was still buried at the rock bottom. I don't THINK it's the thermostat, because the car maintains temperature while crusing, whereas the thermostat in my old Civic went and the temp. gauge never rose above the cold mark. I was just wondering if anyone else has similar experiences with this before I take it into the dealer crying out a thermostat problem.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Hello again everyone. I thought I would bring this up on the board especially for those of you that have to tough out cold climates over the next 3-4 months. As most of you know I own a 03 Civic EX coupe. It seems that the vehicle does not want to maintain proper water temperature in the cold when I am running the heater. It is fine when I'm driving, but if I get stopped at a traffic light idling for 3-5 minutes, the temp. gauge will start dropping. I found it especially peculiar that the temp. gauge did not rise at all this morning when I went in the garage to preheat the car (outside temp about 10 degrees F. (I know I stated previously that I was against this practice of preheating cars before driving them, but I was running a fever and had a big chill in me :( . This was after 20 minutes of the engine running with the heater on high. I wasn't expecting it to be to operating temperature, but when I got in the car the heater was barely blowing out anything worthwhile and the gauge was still buried at the rock bottom. I don't THINK it's the thermostat, because the car maintains temperature while crusing, whereas the thermostat in my old Civic went and the temp. gauge never rose above the cold mark. I was just wondering if anyone else has similar experiences with this before I take it into the dealer crying out a thermostat problem.

     

    This is a prime example of a highly efficient engine. Heat is not a primary function of an engine. Heat is by product of combustion and friction. More heat engine generates - less efficient it is.

     

    You can try remedying the "problem" by installing a higher temperature thermostat.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I've tried four different brands of wiper blades(including Honda) and my wiper blades skid across the windshield even during a heavy rain. However, some days they work ok with very little vibration which doesn't make sense at all.

      

    There was no problem with the original set of blades when I bought the car.

      

    This is driving me crazy! Can anyone help.


     

    A high quality wiper should not give you these problems for 6 months or so. I used to buy Bosch MicroEdge Excell once a year, around Christmas time. This year, back in the summer I went with TriplEdge. TriplEdge are 100% silicone and have a lifetime guarantee. I already used the gaurantee once, when I broke the retaining clip while removing the ice. I called Jarmack, and they sent 2 replacements, and not just the insert, like the warranty states, but the whole assembly.

     

    TripleEdge are not as good as Bosch, but that can be remedied with RainX application and RainX (or BJ's, Costco's knock off) water repelling windshield washer fluid.

     

    You can prolong the service life of a regular blade, by lifting it off the windshield in the winter and summer, when parked.

     

    Good luck.
  • I had the same problem around the same mileage and as someone else has already replied, it does show up at the steering wheel.

    One thing that you should be aware of is that the strut housing also has the steering arm welded to the side of it. Due to this, manufacturers were slow in offering replacements. I'm not certain if this situation has changed in the last couple of years. What has been sold as a replacement strut for the seventh generation Civic is an insert for the original housing. The original housing from Honda is a sealed strut. There is a good bit of work involved including cutting the top off the original housing, pressing the new insert into place and drilling into the bottom of the housing to bolt the insert in. I used Koni yellow inserts and have been pleased.

    If you can get both sides done from Honda for $300, I'd seriously consider that route. This job requires a good bit of work including splitting the steering ball joints, which more than likely will require alignment at the end of the job.

    I did not go the Honda route, mainly because I put a lot of miles on my car, and was concerned that the original reason the struts were failing had not been addressed in the Honda replacement. The Koni's are adjustable, have a lifetime warranty and have performed well to this point, about 100,000 miles later. I keep them on the softest setting.
  • I run the Bosch blades as well. They seem to work fine for about a year. As mentioned, if you haven't used the Rain-X washer fluid, you should give it a try. I am not a Rain-X user, but did fill the washer reservoir recently with the Rain-X washer fluid. It does a great job and as mentioned, reduces the need for the wipers. It isn't the cheapest washer fluid, but sells for about the same as other major manufacturers branded fluid. I ran out and recently filled the reservoir with Prestone. About the same price as Rain-X, but doesn't provide the same benefits.
  • If you are serious, check out the HondaTech site. They have a special section dedicated to forced induction. Most questions involving turboing and supercharging have been answered. My advice is to research the archives and lurk around the site for awhile. There are some folks there that know what they are talking about, have done it and documented it for others. There are also many horror stories about what went wrong. My thoughts after lurking around the HondaTech site for awhile; it is expensive to do right, most people aren't willing to educate themselves on the subject and don't get it right, there is a never ending circle of increased boost and broken parts. When the engine is right, the clutch goes out, transmissions, half shafts, etc. Once the parts are replaced and upgraded, the cycle seems to repeat with more boost.
  • Thanks for the tips everyone! I'll give them a try an report back.
  • hi there

    i am looking apon buying some toyo proxes R888 tyere for my civic does anyone know if these are a half decent tyre,they are fast road and track day tyres.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    It could still be a thermostat problem. It could be stuck slightly open. In that case it would allow too much coolant through the radiator to maintain temperature at idle. That's the only reason I can think of for the coolant gauge to drop. It should stay in one spot.
  • svonsvon Posts: 1
    I got the new civic LX. Could anyone tell me when should be the first normal maintain schedule for engine oil change and oil filter change. From the manual, it seems to tell me that I should change oil and oil filter every one year or every 10K miles. Do I misunderstand? I was told that I should change oil and oil filter every 3 months or every 3K miles before. I am confused.
  • From the manual, it seems to tell me that I should change oil and oil filter every one year or every 10K miles. Do I misunderstand? I was told that I should change oil and oil filter every 3 months or every 3K miles before.

     

    If you read the Owners Manual a little more carefully you'll note that there are two schedules: normal and severe. The "normal" schedule is service intervals of 10,000 miles. The "severe" schedule is 5,000 miles. It also has a definition of "severe" and "normal" so you can determine which schedule you should use based on how you drive your vehicle.

     

    The dealer told you 3 months/3,000 miles, right? The only thing that'll be hurt by changing it that often is your bank account.

     

    :)
  • trantitranti Posts: 51
    Hi! I think that we should have Oil and oil filter changed every 5000 miles. 10000 miles is too long. 3000 miles is too short.
This discussion has been closed.