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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Honda Civic 99 – 65k miles
    Hi everyone, I need help here. I have been reading a couple of messages here to try to figure out the problem, but I ran into so many different scenarios that I got lost. I am also afraid of getting ripped off. So, basically I have the check engine light on for a few weeks already and now the car shakes and looks like it is going to die when stop at the traffic light. I disconnected/connected the battery and light was off when I turn the key, but it came back on after 10 sec I started the car. It does not seem to overheat.
    Please any help is valuable. Thanks


    Like advised before, get the codes from Auto Zone. Chances are it is the oxygen sensor, so be prepared to pay upwards from $180 for it. It is not difficult to replace it your self, but it may be rusted from heat and you need to get under the car to get to it.

    99 may have two oxygen sensors one before the cat and one after the cat. I believe 99 is ODBII and should have 2 sensors.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    99 may have two oxygen sensors one before the cat and one after the cat. I believe 99 is ODBII and should have 2 sensors.

    Every vehicle sold in the U.S. and Canada since 1996 is OBD II compliant and has a post-catalytic converter O2 sensor to monitor catalyst efficiency.
  • leafleaf Posts: 9
    05 Civic LX

    Does civic has an engine air filter? How often do you need to replace it? How to get to it?

    Thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Nope it was a hydraulic system. You can buy the part here.
    http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/palace/wizard.jsp?partner=palace&year=1993&make=HO&mo- - del=CVC-DX2-001&category=I&part=Clutch+Slave+Cylinder


    My bad.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    05 Civic LX

    Does civic has an engine air filter? How often do you need to replace it? How to get to it?

    Thanks.


    If you refer to an air intake filter, all cars should have one:

    1) Complain to the dealer that your new car did not come with an owner's manual.

    2) When you get the manual, read it from cover to cover, and you shall find asnwers to most questions you may have.

    3) It is probably too early to replace it, unless you have racked up some high miles on the new car.
    Good luck.
  • 88crxsi88crxsi Posts: 1
    I bought one of those intake sensor mods and I have no clue where my intake air temperature sensor is. People tried to explain where its at but I just can not find it.
  • hpydudehpydude Posts: 3
    Hi. I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX Coupe with 75000 miles on it. Last week when I was waiting outside the office buliding with engine off but the radio and head lights on for 10 minutes, after that CAR did not start. I had to get the jump from other car's battery.

    After that one more time same thing happened by just keeping the radio on with engine switched off.

    Is this a battery issue ? If yes then where should I get the battery from and which one ?

    Thanks
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,708
    It could very well be. Most places that sell batteries have a checking tool for battery and charging system. You can find out real quick.

    For one dollar, get yourself a 5 ball battery checker. Read the chart and so many balls that sink indicate a % of discharge or (float= % charge) remaining. I dont know how technical you want to get beyond that, but up to a certain % charge, it makes all the sense in the world to get a recharge. Past a certain % you are better off getting a new battery. (group 51) If it were mine to get, I would purchase a Costco (Johnson Controls) brand that has 3 year free replacement with 100 mo prorate @ $38.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Hi. I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX Coupe with 75000 miles on it. Last week when I was waiting outside the office buliding with engine off but the radio and head lights on for 10 minutes, after that CAR did not start. I had to get the jump from other car's battery.

    After that one more time same thing happened by just keeping the radio on with engine switched off.

    Is this a battery issue ? If yes then where should I get the battery from and which one ?

    Thanks


    I agree with ruking, about Costco branded battery. Costco has proven to have some very high quality items under their kirkland and costco brands.

    As far as the battery issue, do you have a high powered aftermarket stereo? If so, another battery of the same kind won't do much good. You may want to get a larger capacity battery, or a second battery for the sound system, such as sealed optima, and mount it in the trunk.

    Another thing to consider is how long your drive is. If your battery is discharged to the point where it won't crank the engine, you would need at least an hour of driving time at highway speeds (RPM's at or above 3000) to fully charge it. If you have short commute and frequent engine restarts, you would benefit from a larger capacity battery as well.

    It could be that your battery is fine, but the 10 minute headlights on thing discharged it, and the short drive never fully charged the battery. Although, if this is the original battery that came with the car in 99, you better off just replacing it now, rather than being stuck some where at the least expected moment.

    Battery replacement is within the scope of DIY, but it does require lifting of the somehwat heavy (25 lbs) battery, and removal of few connectors, and hold down plate. Then you have make sure the polarity is not reversed, when installing new battery.
    If you are not handy, Sears is probably the easiest place to get a replacement, but beware that the sales clerks are on comission. I think Sears has or had a 15 minute guarantee, or its free.
    Don't fall for the "goo-ga ga-ga" battery sales pitch, chances are you will not have the car by the time the warranty on the new battery is up. I have had $30 K-mart batteries last years and years.
  • I have a 2001 Honda Civic ex with 105,000 miles. The dealer is recommending a timing chain(belt?) replacement which is pretty costly. Nothing is wrong with this car and I'm wondering if this is REALLY necessary.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have a 2001 Honda Civic ex with 105,000 miles. The dealer is recommending a timing chain(belt?) replacement which is pretty costly. Nothing is wrong with this car and I'm wondering if this is REALLY necessary.

    Timing belt replacement is necessary as well as water pump. You don't want to have the timing belt break on you, unless you have spare engine at home. Water pump replacement is just a preventative measure. Water pump ot riming belt them-selves are not expensive, but to get to them is very laborous. If you look at the cost breakdown, 80% of it is labor, 20% parts.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,610
    " beware"...sales clerks are on commission.

    Like this is a "bad" thing?

    "goo-ga ga-ga" battery sales pitch??

    It's been a long time since I managed a Sears Auto Center but I sure don't remember any of this??
  • leafleaf Posts: 9

    If you refer to an air intake filter, all cars should have one:

    1) Complain to the dealer that your new car did not come with an owner's manual.

    2) When you get the manual, read it from cover to cover, and you shall find asnwers to most questions you may have.

    3) It is probably too early to replace it, unless you have racked up some high miles on the new car.
    Good luck.


    Yes, I am refering to air intake filter. I re-read my manual again and there is no section about DIY air filter replacement. The closest part may be related is that in scheduled maintanence, the air clean element needs to be replaced every 30k miles.

    Any one can confirm with their manual? And the air clean element just like asking you to go to the dealer place...
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,708
    The shop manual does not make a DIY distinction. Can you still DIY? Absolutely! Would they rather you use a dealer? Absolutely!
  • mnavamnava Posts: 5
    I would like to thank you all for your help and share my findings.
    I went to the closest Auto Zone store and they let me use their code check for free. I got the following messages:
    option 1 - Read Codes - P0135 (Bank 1 sensor 1) - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction
    option 4 - I/M Monitor - O2 sensor, Evap Sys, and Catalyst (Not Ready)
    Moreover, I ended up spending ~$85 just for 1 Bosh Oxigen sensor (before or top) and replacing it myself after they lend me a socket.I just had to use my own wrench. At the end, I disconnected/connected the battery and that was it.
    Thanks again and I hope this info may help others.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The heater circuit brings the sensor up to operating temp faster so it can start producing it's signal sooner. Glad to hear you got it sorted out. Good of them to lend you the socket.
  • mlcolemlcole Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Del Sol, 5-speed, small block engine (no VTEC), stateside spec's with 215,000 original miles on it. My problem is the engine will not start.

    The problem started Monday afternoon. Took about 5 minutes before the engine caught and the cylinders fired up. A couple of times the engine did fire up, but it sounded like it was starving for something...trying to fire but couldn't[hope that makes sense]. Didn't have a problem all day after that.

    The engine has been working fine all week until Saturday morning. It did catch, like Monday, and worked fine all day. This morning, the problem is back and it's not catching like it did yesterday.

    Here's what I observed:
    1. When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump engage...normal
    2. The engine turns over, but the cylinders never fire. Only one instance of a "rumble" like they're trying to fire.
    3. Battery is good...replaced 8 months ago.
    4. No idiot lites to indicate a specific problem area.
    5. When I stop trying to start the engine I hear 4 distinct beeps in rapid succession.

    I suspect the 4 beeps are trying to tell me something. Anyone have a clue?

    Oh yeah...at the moment the weather here is cold, between 28F and 38F.

    Also, I have about an 1/8 of a tank of gas. The gas from the military gas stations tend to be a bit watery at times. I was going to run the tank dry and fill it up with an octane boost today.

    Thanks in advance for any assistance.

    regards

    .
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    If you only have 1/8 of a tank of fuel, and you have some water in the tank, you have found your problem. Get some good quality "Dry-Gas", and some additional fuel in the tank. DO NOT run the tank dry. If you have an electric fuel pump you will destroy the pump, because "fuel" is used to cool and lubricate the pump. Keep us posted on this issue. ----Greg
  • prosperprosper Posts: 3
    I know im probable to late for the battery problem but let me give u guys some advice, its not always a battery issue when your car decides to die out on u, u could do a couple of things check the ground wire's, after market electrical equipment that was just installed, and the alternator i use to have a lot of people come into my shop with this kind of problems, and it ends up being faulty wires or alternator or starter ground not being installed properly or have been loosened do to vibration.
    Water in the tank could be caused by weather changes and gregoryc1 has the right idea if there is enough water in your gas tank it can cause pump damage or even worse your engine could hydro lock and trust me u really dont want that....
This discussion has been closed.