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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    good question good insight.

    i had a '94 accord that exhibited the symptom of the fan running even after the car was off - and engine cooled down.

    i opened the hood, opened the relay fuse cover and noticed that the window up/down control relays were the same as the fan (on my model), so as a test, i decided to try the same hunch that the relay was sticking so i swapped out the fan relay for one of the window control relays...that seemed to do the trick, so i went to the parts store and got a new relay for $20 or so bucks. ;)
  • sirdonsirdon Posts: 10
    Hi hottie,
    The first thing i'd tell you to consider is this. If the car is already working, do nothing to it except get the alternator checked. If it is good and the battery is not good, simply replace it. Since you had the distributor changed already, I don't think you need to do a tune-up so soon. Simply have the oil checked or changed, whichever is necessary. The 90k tune-up would be only necessary if it has not yet already been done. I'd change the oil every 3K miles and have the tune-up done at 120k instead.
    About the belts and water pump, change them only if there's noticeable oil leakinf from the front seals. Otherwise the work may very well be unnecessary. If you do have to change the waterpump, also have the timing belt and front seals changed at the same time. A $1400 bill is not to be expected. the prior one in my estimation was a little over, but close.
  • sirdonsirdon Posts: 10
    Hi hottie,
    If the price included the parts as well, I might have overlooked something they put in, considering you have the bill and I don't. It might seem a little pricey, but that is money you shouldn't have to spend again for time to come. In my estimate, the water pump and timing belt and seals job could cost an average of about $225 not including the price of the parts. Remember that's a balalpark figure and not the exact price. But do that only if it is absolutely necessary.
  • asg2307asg2307 Posts: 8
    In regards to a tune-up. Replaced: spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires, both fuel filters, air filter. Little disturbed that the firing seems to be 180 degrees out, but dealt with that before. Mechanic friend of mine has in the past not immediately concerned with timing if starts normal which it does.

    With all done and a tightened the slack of the throttle cable, idles a little fast, feels like it is missing driving at 30 mph and still dies when making a turn both left and right.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Hi, I have a 1993 del sol S coupe. It has 97,900 miles on it and for the past 2 years has been sitting untouched due to my insurance wanting to charge me $230 mo. liability only! Anyways i am trying to get it road ready and have already gotten a new distributor, clutch and cv boots for a whopping $1,400(towing + diagnostic). The mechanic advised me when i picked it up the timing belt, water pump, and belts need to be replaced as well as a 90k tune up. Have taken it somewhere new b/c when i tried to start it again to go get the tune up and belts the brand new battery bought 1 month ago was dead (possible alternator??. Would really not like to spend $1400 again as i have a feeling i totally was overcharged for previous work done at other shop. I am 21 year old girl and no some about cars but not enough to look at a invoice and tell if i was charged for non existing parts, extra labor, ect. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to look out for when the bill arrives? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Gullible Girl in AZ

    Man, I wish I were in the auto repair business!!! What is done is done.
    Your battery is probably just dead from sitting there. Batteries from the store are not fully charged and will drain eventually. Although 1 month is a short time, you may have some electrical drain, like a radio on, or something like that.

    The timing belt and water pump at 90K is recommended maintenance. This is unrelated to your drained battery. If you say you "no" about cars, you should know that. Your Honda dealer will charge $600-$700 for the job. An independant mechanic should be able to do this for $350. I would probably say not to go to the guy who charged you $1400 for distributtor, clutch and CV boots. Clutch is a $300 job at the dealer, CV boots, not CV joints are $50 tops, brand new distributor from Honda is under $300. I doubt the place you went to was a Honda dealer, and I doubt they used brand new OEM Honda parts. You do the math.

    As far as your insurance goes, this is exactly why Honda stopped selling CRX/Del Sol in the US, the insurance companies killed it. Plus, I don' t know your driving record, you could have had accidents and tickets for all I know.
  • hondaalhondaal Posts: 4
    Well... Relays checked out fine. I did find out that Both fans should not be comming on to cool the motor. Both should only come on when the a/c is on. So Now what? A/C diode? ECM? Any idea's?
    Oh... What's the red light in the ECM for? It's not on but blinks on/off once when I start the car.
  • asg2307asg2307 Posts: 8
    As far as the engine running properly, no. I did the tune-up because the engine stalls at idle. According to the old owner, car sat for a year. Put highest grade gas, added gas treatment. Replaced: air filter, oil change, plugs, distibutor cap, rotor, gas filters, Spark plug wires, gas line from fire wall to carb. I am replacing some of the vacuum lines, but I can not be specific, sorry.Adjusted throttle cable.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    If the vehicle sat for one year without running, you could have a fuel problem. (There might be a whole load of water in the tank.) Is the fuel line free from the Carb. to the tank? If the fuel line is clean, and the fuel pump is pumping the correct pressure and volume, you might want to consider removing the carb, and having it cleaned and rebuilt by a fuel specialist.(The low speed and idle circuits in the carb could be clogged). You might also consider dropping the fuel tank, and having it cleaned, and the fuel line flushed. It is hard to "trouble-shoot" this problem by computer! Please keep us informed about this issue!
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i can only say anecdotally that while my accord had an issue with the fan relay, it would also sometimes work properly (thus check-out fine). so - it's still possible that periodically, the relay is sticking as it happened on my vehicle. perhaps you're getting the "warning sign" now. ;)

    i have no expertise in the area of automotive electronics, specially w.r.t. ECM operation so i can't add much.

    perhaps your dealer or an independant honda service shop might be consulted. they've probably seen your issue before and can help.

    good luck.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Well... Relays checked out fine. I did find out that Both fans should not be comming on to cool the motor. Both should only come on when the a/c is on. So Now what? A/C diode? ECM? Any idea's?
    Oh... What's the red light in the ECM for? It's not on but blinks on/off once when I start the car.

    It is difficult to diagnose over the internet. There could be something that only becomes apparent when one is looking at the car.

    You have to start the systematic elimination of components. Try disconnecting the temp sensor, and see if the fans stop. Try disconnecting the relay and see if fans stop. Try disconnecting one fan, see if the other stops. Try disconnecting the a/c clutch, turning the interior fan on and off. Try disconnecting the battery and let the computer earse any stored info and see if that works. There are so many things that you can do to get to the cause.

    Have no clue what the red light in the ECM is for.
  • asg2307asg2307 Posts: 8
    1985 Civic Wagon, 1.5 engine. For the life of me I can not located the PCV. I would appreciate the help.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    1985 Civic Wagon, 1.5 engine. For the life of me I can not located the PCV. I would appreciate the help.

    Should be somewhere on the valve cover. Trace a tube going to the intake from the valve cover, the PCV should be either in the cover or somewhere along the tube. If you still can't find it, spend $20 for a Hayes manual.
  • Hi,
    Hubby has a 1999 Honda Civic 84,000 miles. He's great with the regular upkeep & maintenance & we really have had no major problems until now. She starts right up but dies a block later. Starts right up again but, dies a few blocks later. This goes on for about 15 - 20 minutes of trying to drive. No warning that it's going to cut out, just does. Radio still stays on. My hubby spoke to a mechanic & he told him to replace the EFI Main Relay which we did. Still having the same problem. We've had this problem for a few months now & it doesn't matter what the weather is or how many times we've used the car that day. Happens almost on a daily basis.
    Any clues to what is going on?????????
    Thanks for your help
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Fuel filter maybe?
  • eddief1eddief1 Posts: 13
    I went to a carburator shop he removed the aircleaner cover and started to put gas into the carb to excelarate the motor. he did this for about 5seconds and said the carb needed to be rebuilt for $250 . the car can idle decent at times now. if the carb needed to be rebuilt it should run bad all the time. what can i do to check for possible leaks.
  • sol1sol1 Posts: 1
    we just bought a 1993 honda del sol, when it idles it sounds like someone is revving up the engine all the time, kind of like a surging noise. has anyone had this trouble before and if so, any suggestions on how to correct it?? thanks.
  • I own a 93 Honda Civic with 144K and have just had to replace my head gasket again! This is the second time I've replaced it in less than 3 years and the third time it's been replaced in less than 5 years (the previous owner replaced it a few months before I bought it). Has anyone else had this many problems with the head gasket or know why it could be having problems so often? :confuse:

    After just paying $2000 (this time) for these repairs, I was really hoping my :lemon: would run properly. Unfortunately, since I got it back from the mechanic, it seems to hesitate and jerk a bit when I'm accelerating especially when it's pulling a little harder such as on an incline. I have to gear down a lot more now than before because it just doesn't seem to have the power. Is this something to do with the fuel line, injectors or filter? I tried some methyl hydrate but haven't driven it yet since. Does this sound like a serious/ expensive problem? My muffler is also going, I don't know if this would effect it or not. I'd appreciate any advice since the mechanic I brought it to is four hours away where I broke down the last time.
  • It sounds like to me like the mechanic may not have torqued down the head gasket and parts properly causing a compression problem which would yield lower output from the engine. Is the car still overheating or is it normal? I would maybe start there with compression. It could be the other things but since this just started after the head gasket replacement, then I would think it would be a problem with that. However if it isn't this is a common sympton for a needed tune up. Look into that also. Good luck and sorry to hear about your run of bad luck :(
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I would start looking into causes for the head gasket replacement.
    1. Mechanic lied to you and it did not need head gasket replacement.
    2. There is an underlying cause that has never been fixed

    I had an 85 Civic with 250,000 miles with the original head gasket. I have an 88 Prelude with 130,000 miles and original head gasket.

    Are all replacement gaskets from Honda or high quality manufacturer like "Mr Gasket?" or are they cheap knock offs? Is your car regularly overheating? Did the shop deck the block and the head before putting the new gasket on? It could be that the block or the head are warped and this is only a matter of time before you will need new headgasket. This could also be the reason you are having the symptoms you described.

    Seems like gasket replacements are only a temporary cure fo rthis particular engine. For the $4000 you paid for two gasket replacements, you could have bought a high power JDM engine and transmission, or just a newer engine from Honda and had it put in.
  • 440dart440dart Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 CIVIC with an 8 valve 4 cylinder (1.5 or 1.8 I think). It is burning about 2 quarts of oil every 250 miles. The compression is 130 psi on all four cylinders, which I think is good, and the engine runs perfect and has plenty of power. The spark plugs for the middle 2 cylinders are black and oily, the outers are a nice light brown. Oil is literally dripping from the tail pipe.
    What could cause this? Could this much oil be coming down the valve guides?
    Any help is appreciated.
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