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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Where's auburn63? He's the best around when it comes to M&R... Hey auburn63 -- can you work on a F-16 Fighting Falcon? I can't get my sidewinders to detach from this &^%$%^ bird!
syldacat: Seriously, someone here will have an answer. Good luck.
there is a "fire" button to disengage your sidewinder
Have a good day and keep posting...
Yep. I'm &^%^%$# dreaming! Reality check...
I"M KIDDING !!!! Been there, done that!
Just bought a 2002 LX sedan. The driver side window is slow but "service" says it's ok. We'll see.
I can't believe there is no shroud inside the front fenderwells to help keep ice, salt and water from the throttle linkage, wires and other junk hanging behind the motor. I can see straight through the car. I was hoping to drive the wheels off of it. Any problems and it will be my last Civic.
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
Next morning will not start again. Car has only 36,000 miles. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
The warranty does not cover clutch disk wear, but disk wear is not your problem. The noise you hear is the transmission gears which are unable to synchronize properly. The cause could be worn synchronizer rings. If they are worn due to poor driving habits such as failure to fully disengage the clutch when shifting and/or very rapid shifting...it's your responsibility and will cost several hundred dollars. Low clutch fluid level could be the problem; have you checked it? A defect in the hydraulic clutch system could also be the culprit; I believe the warranty will cover any problems of that type.
The factory gear oil is pretty decent stuff ... but you can do better by switching to Redline MTL. This stuff makes for smoother shifting ... but especially in really cold (winter) weather.
--- Bror Jace
Yes, the cold weather causing the oil to thicken is what causes the problems. There is a detailed description of what's going on inside manula trannies (from the Redline site):
"All oils are slippery, and with most lubricated components, the slipperier the better, but this is not so with manual transmissions. The synchronization of shifting gears requires friction to transfer energy from the synchronizer, which is locked to the input shaft, to its mating surface attached to the gear to be locked in as the drive gear. Few modern transmissions use sliding gears to change gearing other than for reverse gearing. Synchromesh transmissions have the gear pairs constantly in mesh. The drive gear is selected by using the shift forks to slide a synchronizer ring, which rotates at the same speed as the input shaft, in contact with the selected drive gear. Once the drive gear is brought to the same speed as the input shaft, the locking ring on the synchro assembly is allowed to slide over and lock into the drive gear.
The time this process takes depends on how easily the synchro ring moves and the rate of frictional energy transfer between the two synchronizer surfaces. Higher viscosity lubricants slow the sliding of the synchro ring on the input shaft and require a longer time for the oil to be squeezed out from between the mating synchronizer surfaces. After the lubricant is squeezed out, the coefficient of friction of the lubricant determines the rate of frictional energy transfer between the two surfaces. Slippery lubricants such as hypoid gear oils and ATFs can take too long to synchronize the gears, which promotes synchronizer wear.
Clashing of the gears (actually clashing of the synchromesh gears, since the drive gears are always in contact) can occur if excessive shift effort is used in order to shift the locking ring into place before the surfaces have achieved equal speed. It may also occur at the end of a reasonably smooth shift if an instability exists in the coefficient of friction, causing stick-slip to occur. In this form of clashing, the ring slides on the mating synchro gear, but a sudden slippage causes a grinding of the gears. In order to prevent stick-slip from occuring and the gear clashing which results, the coefficient of friction should inflect downward as the relative speed drops to zero."
Honda makes a very good manual transmission ... but their synchros are a weak point.
--- Bror Jace
I noticed sometimes when I come to a complete stop at stop signs and traffic lights that the car wants to hesitate and stall. The RPM level drops past 500 and then it comes back up to its idle.
The car shudder and shakes and feels like it wants to cut off.
In addition, I was driving to work last Friday and I had to make an abrupt stop at the traffic light. When I came to a stop the RPM level went to zero and the car cut off.
Has anyone experienced this type of problem with hesitation and stalling? Could this be an idle speed problem?
D
If the stalling is not accompanied by pulling against the braking action, which is the case with a standard transmission and may be the case with an automatic, I would first suspect the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Checking and adjustments of this involve several steps but are detailed clearly in Section #11 of the shop manual. A Honda dealer mechanic with any experience has surely addressed this type of problem. Good luck.
This was a similar recall for the LX and DX models. The fix it, was to replace the PCM. Why Honda would do this for the LX and DX models and not the EX is a question in my mind.
I took the car into the dealer on Friday, they checked for codes in the PCM and they found nothing.
I plan on taking it to another dealer. My problem is an intermittent one. It happens at random.
I feel strongly that it is the IAC. If the IAC is causing this idle problem, can it affect the PCM? Can a code show up in the PCM?
Drilled all the way through the trunk and secured with long bolt and nut.
Hope Honda uses platic or aluminum screws and threads for anchors now. Anyone know if they do?
new cars have plastic nuts
liberty: just replace the fan on my engine. It wasn't running at all, causing overheating when sitting in traffic.
Try the coolant sensor for the check engine light. What code is it blinking?