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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • hanz1hanz1 Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone,

    I just purchased a JET Computer Upgrade Kit for my 97Civic LX. However, in order to send my chip to JET to be programmed I must remove my original chip first. So, does anyone know how to remove the chip. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Zach
  • Hello Everyone,

    I was hoping someone might be able to help me diagnose this issue. '99 Civic EX, automatic transmission, 103K miles, all suggested maintenance current on vehicle including timing belt/water pump. Just yesterday, about 20 minutes in a drive, the car was in traffic with the interior fan on. An initial electrical burning smell started in the vent (initially dismissed as idling emissions from the car in front of me) and then became more intense / concentrated as if something were on fire under the hood. I immediately pulled over, turned off the car and looked under the hood. No signs of smoke, damage, etc. The only things I found were a) slightly lowered coolant levels, just below the min in the reservoir and what appears to be fresh oil directly below the engine mount coming from the lid / seal area of what appears to be a comparment a little larger than a tuna fish can. I brought the car to the dealer and am awaiting a prognosis. The car itself runs fine from what I can tell and there was no loss of oil after checking levels. There is still a slight odor coming from the fan vent in the car when I turn it on. Does anyone have any idea what could have caused the electrical burning smell and what the container is below the engine mount (it is not the brake fluid or power steering reservoirs - this is a part that is not identified in the owner's manual.) Please let me know if you have any experience and / or if the two problems could be related. Thanks very much.

    Ed
  • I've got a 1998 Honda Civic LX, and the temp gauge has been jumping up and down (never hitting red) as I drive. It doesn't seem to matter if I am idling in traffic or speeding down the freeway, it will move from the mid mark up to just before red and may stay there for a while and come back down. There doesn't appear to be any pattern it totally varies, I swear depending on its mood. On the way to work I was doing 20km/hr and it was close to hot, but earlier idling at a light I was at the mid mark, but prior to that I was doing 80km/hr and it was mid mark also... :confuse:

    Any ideas??
  • I had nearly the same problem with my '99 Civic EX and the problem was the A/C belt. My dealer initially sprayed silicon on the belts and the sound went away temporarily but the only thing that resolved it satisfactorily was to have the belts adjusted.
  • Try different tires, better grade gas and check the air filter. If all else fails, I would ahve it tuned up, too. Those would be my guesses. I had a similar issue with my '99 (original owner) and it was related to a combination of the forementioned. I now average over 30 miles-per-gallon, at one point topping out around 34-35.
  • yearnshawyearnshaw Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Honda Civic EX with 45K (yes, I drive a LOT). I just took the car into the dealer (it's always gone to a dealer for service/oil changes) and was told that I had a broken front motor mount. Unfortunately, I just went out of warranty last month (before my cross-country trip and back).

    The car is not making any funny noises or vibrations. How do I know if I'm being taken for a ride by the dealer? Any recommendations to get this fixed, if in fact there is a problem? Is this typically covered under warranty? Thx.
  • Ill lay it all out for you. !992 honda civic hatchback VX. Manual trans, 182716 miles. Car idles fine ,doesnt miss at all. Car drives fine when it is cold ,doesnt miss at all.Smooth as glass. When said car gets to "Normal Operating Temperature" is where my problems start. When you are accelerating car drives smooth as glass. When you are going up a hill again smooth as glass. But when you have to maintain a Constant speed , no matter what that speed is she begins to stutter, sputter, and jerk.It does not do it when I set in the yard and have the car in Neutral and I hold the rpms at 3000, 2000, 4000 doesnt matter smooth as glass.Only in gear and moving on a levelsurface and constant speed . This is what I have done to it Yesterday. New all of this. fuel filter, oil filter, plugs ,wires, synthetic oil, air filter, new o2 sensor. Will someone please help me before i go out of my mind!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,356
    Taking it to a shop you trust for a look?

    Pretty hard to diagnose over the internet.
  • oluapoluap Posts: 4
    I posted this yesterday in Hybrid Vehicles and got yelled at by an Edmunds staff member (who apparently had no problem with a thread on the Honda Civic GX, but I digress.) Anywho, here's what I posted:

    I am looking for information from owners of the Honda Civic VX, a version of the '92-'95 Honda Civic Hatchback with numerous factory modifications to push fuel economy to an EPA 47/56 rating. I am very impressed by a car that rivals the Honda Civic Hybrid for economy and engine power, seats five in a pinch, and is available for $2k-$4k. Here are my questions:

    -The fuel-saving technology in this car is very impressive. How good is real-world fuel economy?

    -The Civic VX weighs 2100 lbs and has no ABS. If anyone has wrecked one, how did you fare?

    -What are your general observations of the car? Having read some old reviews of the VX, I am curious about driver's experience with highway-speed acceleration, handling, and ride.

    -Has anyone installed aftermarket cruise control? How well does it work? (This applies to '92-'95 Civics in general.)

    I understand the VX is a popular car to modify in the import tuner crowd, but I am looking for information on the stock VX.
  • bluearmbluearm Posts: 6
    thanks for the info. My tires are almost worn out maybe thats the problem, the air filter looks like new , the scheduled maintenance was done on 29k miles now its 32k miles .
    any recommendations on choosing tires ? thanks. ;)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Ill lay it all out for you. !992 honda civic hatchback VX. Manual trans, 182716 miles. Car idles fine ,doesnt miss at all. Car drives fine when it is cold ,doesnt miss at all.Smooth as glass. When said car gets to "Normal Operating Temperature" is where my problems start. When you are accelerating car drives smooth as glass. When you are going up a hill again smooth as glass. But when you have to maintain a Constant speed , no matter what that speed is she begins to stutter, sputter, and jerk.It does not do it when I set in the yard and have the car in Neutral and I hold the rpms at 3000, 2000, 4000 doesnt matter smooth as glass.Only in gear and moving on a levelsurface and constant speed . This is what I have done to it Yesterday. New all of this. fuel filter, oil filter, plugs ,wires, synthetic oil, air filter, new o2 sensor. Will someone please help me before i go out of my mind!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I am going to go out on a limb and present the worst case scenario. The VX has what was called VTEC-E, which was later used in hybrid car engines. It runs very lean when power is not needed, such as coasting. I would start looking into VTEC operation. But this would be my last resort, because it may get pricey.

    Did you get an OEM O2 sensor or aftermarket? This may be one of the causes, VTEC-E relyes heavily on the computer readouts to determine what air/fuel ratio to use, as well as how many valves to open. I belive it switches from 12 to 16 valve operation under load. Check the valve clearance and tension, they probably need adjusting. Are you using correct grade of engine oil? VTEC uses oil pressure to operate, too heavy or too light oil may have an effect on VTEC operation. Check Mass air flow sensor for proper operation.

    If you are going to do all the work your self, see if there is a Helms manual for the VX specifically. It should list the ohmmeter readouts for all the sensors for varyous conditions.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I need to reset the engine light on my 96 Honda Civic Si. I replaced a faulty oxygen sensor and now I need to reset the light to turn it off. Does anyone know what the easiest way to do this is? I could take it back to my garage for a fee. They would clear the message light via computer. Is there a way to do this myself either by disconnecting the battery or by some other means? Any suggestions would be most appreciated...thanks...

    Sometimes disconnecting the battery for half hour resets the computer. Make sure you have the code for your OEM radio, if you have OEM radio.

    After reset your car will have to re-learn all your driving habits, give it a couple of hours of driving to reprogram the fuel and power maps.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,356
    All of this is probably moot since I doubt you would be able to even find one of these oddball Civics.

    In the ten years I've been in the business, I MAY have seen five of these. They weren't good sellers when new so they are pretty scarce now as used cars.

    Not bad cars. They ride and accelerate like the economy cars they are.
  • , pretty sure it is after market. I am using 5-30 synthetic Mobil. Someone told me that the fuel injection may be clogged up seeing as it set for a while before being driven. That option is Free to check so i am going to go that route also I also ordered a MAP sensor.We will see. Thank you
  • My 2003 Civic EX has had a squeaky clutch now for about 5000 miles. It happens mainly in the morning or when the car has been sitting awhile...(like 6 or more hours). It sounds like it is coming from the engine bay. The noise happens every time there is operation of the clutch. The noise tends to go away after an extended period of time. It doesn't seem to be affecting the performance of the car, but it is running my last nerve. The car has 45,000 miles on it. Anyone else have this same problem, and is there a fix for it? Thanks.
  • shawnhshawnh Posts: 3
    i have a 98civic 4dr lx... i just replaced the radiator b/c of a crack/leak in the other one(not sure if it was the original). After replacing the radiator, the fan wouldn't come on and it started to overheat. Thinking it might be a blown fuse or something my friend switched one of the relays and the fan started working.... well we thought it was all good until we put the other one back on the a/c condensing fan and it started working ... well anyhow the fan would work but not until it got over 3/4 on the gauge which wasnt even close to normal even on the cracked radiator. The guy at o'reillys said something about maybe an air pocket... but that still wouldnt explain why the fan didnt start till the temp.gauge is 3/4 of the way. my friend thinks it my be the temp.gauge sensor ... but i wasnt having this problem before... thank you and i appreciate anyone who can help me
  • shawnhshawnh Posts: 3
    hey man not sure what year you have but my 98civiclx auto. does that too... its always been kinda a hard shifter but ive had it 30000 miles(now 78,000) or so and it seems to get worse.. interestingly enough though is that in hotter weather it shifts smoother. im pretty sure eventually the transmission will go out... i havent replaced/flushed the transmission oil ever since ive had the car and some advice from others tell me i probably shouldn't change it now. i wouldnt mind knowing if its just certain civics/hondas.
  • shawnhshawnh Posts: 3
    hey i had the same problem w/ my 98 civic @ 67000mi ... my light came on and it was the o2 sensor... when i was replacing @ 78000 it i found i too have a decent sized crack in the exhaust manifold. i had some1 reset the check engine light and it hasnt come since replacing it though. it now runs noticably smoother.
  • mgeismgeis Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Recently I had a near-dead, but not totally dead battery in my 95 EX. I got a jump, got rolling, my radio was working (we've had to enter the code in the past when we disconnect the battery, so we're familiar w/that issue). However, this time, I noticed that the red "anti-theft" light near the rear defrost button was on while I was driving. Normally it flashes when the car is parked, etc. I think it has something to do w/the alarm, as now my alarm button on my keychain will remotely lock the doors, but it will not set or unset the alarm.

    In short, the problem seems to be that the alarm is not working, ever since my near-dead battery. Keyless entry and radio still work just fine.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.

    ps. First time post, sorry if this is a repeat. Couldn't find this topic in the forum.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    i have a 98civic 4dr lx... i just replaced the radiator b/c of a crack/leak in the other one(not sure if it was the original). After replacing the radiator, the fan wouldn't come on and it started to overheat. Thinking it might be a blown fuse or something my friend switched one of the relays and the fan started working.... well we thought it was all good until we put the other one back on the a/c condensing fan and it started working ... well anyhow the fan would work but not until it got over 3/4 on the gauge which wasnt even close to normal even on the cracked radiator. The guy at o'reillys said something about maybe an air pocket... but that still wouldnt explain why the fan didnt start till the temp.gauge is 3/4 of the way. my friend thinks it my be the temp.gauge sensor ... but i wasnt having this problem before... thank you and i appreciate anyone who can help me

    I don't have an exact answer, but just going on a tangent here. What kind of coolant did you refill it with after changing the radiator. Different coolants may have different heat capacities, although they shouldn't. This may explain why you get a delay in fan coming on. The gauge in the dash is wired to the engine block, while the fan switch is wired to the actual coolant temp sensor. The difference in heat capacities is what giving you the delay. If you used aftermarket coolant, try switching to Honda OEM coolant and see if the problem persists (it is not really a problem, though)
This discussion has been closed.