Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • maryhartmaryhart Posts: 3
    Thanks! This has been really helpful.
  • hoffman24hoffman24 Posts: 1
    92 Honda Civic Del Sol w/ 125000 miles. Start car and there are some electrical problems: No Gauges on Dash (Tach, Speed, Temp, Odo., & Fuel), no turn signals, no power windows, and no cruise. While running if I open the door, the car beep's as if I have left the key in the ignition while not running. Headlights, hazards, AC blower, radio, and brake lights all still work.

    Checked wiring harnesses and they are all connected. I believe it is in the ignition, something not telling the car it is on or running therefore not switching on signals, gauges, etc.

    Just looking for feedback before replacing parts.
  • jeepluverjeepluver Posts: 4
    Check with your local dealership, they will need to get the VIN number from you and probably some proof you own it. Careful with the code, it gives you three chances and then locks you out for an hour. If you have the manual check it. It will explain. Just had my after market Pioneer stolen out of my 95 and found info in manual.
  • johnl9johnl9 Posts: 2
    have a 1997 honda civic in which the child lock was selected to lock, well the door now will not open from inside or out. even bigger problem now, in trying to figure out first problem now have both back doors locked and neither will open. any help on this please!?
  • wftwft Posts: 7
    Yes the condensor fan runs and the engine idles up seems that it is all doing what it should except the compressor clutch does not engage most of the time.
    I checked the compressor when it should be engaged and it was not.
    There was battery voltage to the clutch coil with a good ground it is just that
    the clutch will not engage and it has a new clutch coil.
    It does work for a while when it is cool outside but in the heat of the day forget it.
    I am wondering if the compressor clutch is bad because it has power it just doesn't engage.
  • lkzbratlkzbrat Posts: 1
    my civic is idling real bad and i have only had my car for 6 months and everything was fine until about 2 weeks ago and then it started idling and my car acts like it is going to die. i noticed the rpm gauge is going almost to 0 then all the way up to 2! even when im driving and it seems like a jerky drive instead of smooth! can anyone help? :(
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Check the connection in the distributor. I had that same problem on one of my Civic. No parts were involved. Just connections.
  • I was coming home from work the other day and after pulling away from a stop sign, I noticed that the spedo. jumped to 120mph and then to 0. I slowed my acceleration at that point and put the car in Neutral. Reved the car to 4,000 RPM and saw the speedo jump to 80 eratically. Then I put it back into D4 and noticed the car was jumping like crazy and shifting erratically. I got home, found the spedo and disconnected it. The car drove fine then, but the torque converter wouldn't lock down. Because the speedo. wasn't hooked up. While at Auto Zone getting the codes checked I found the price of a new speedometer sensor to be approx. $125 US Dollars. OOOUUUCHH!! :mad: Ok...Problem solved....NOPE! Lights are still flickering, Mind you I haven't installed new speedo yet. search of an answer I go looking for information. I stumble across this websight right here and....Behold... :D some sort of answer. I read on this wb sight that there is a problem in the wiring harness whereas it can rub against a bracket that is tucked back under the intake manifold. So I pull the wires back away from the bracket, Start flickering....turn the lights down the road with the lights on...High beams on......still no flicking. There ya go...problem solved. So in short....Wiring harness shorts out on bracket...sends juice through the motor block....and shorts out any weak sensor in its path. Or makes the sensors trip and produces all Kindsof trouble codes.
    Such things like:
    P0135- O2 Sensor Heater Circut Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
    P0141- O2 Sensor Heater Circut Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
    P1298- Honda manufacturer code of some sort...If any one knows about that one please tell me
  • i need to find the fuel shutoff inertia switch or whatever its called so i can turn the fuel pump on and start my car. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
  • Hey everyone. Just came across this site and am amazed at all the infomation available in the forums. I just bought a 1997 Civic LX with 117,000 miles, automatic transmission. I have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer. Thanks in advance!

    1.The SRS light was on when I bought it. I'm fairly confident that this car had not deployed its airbags, but I can't be certain. I have heard that this light can come on for a variety of reasons. What should I do? From what I have read, sounds like I should take it to dealership and have them check it and reset if its nothing serious. But I hear that can be $65-100. Any other routes I could take besides this one?

    2.One thing that concerned me but currently is not a problem is the check engine light came on. I bought the car, drove it 2 hours on interstate, then ran it through an automatic carwash and a couple of things happened. First, even though the car was in park, the green light for drive on the guage cluster started flashing a few times, then after a sequence of flashes and no flashes it stopped(about1-2 minutes elapsed, this happened while I was in the bay getting washed). Next when I pulled out, the check engine light came on, then after a few minutes of driving, the speedometer dial started bouncing around erratically. I have read a few posts where this may be attributed to a harness around the manifold rubbing. Is that the case here or not? Now the second part of this. The next day I drove and picked up a new air filter, installed it and took the car to have new tires, oil change and have corrosion taken off the battery posts. When I got back in the car, check engine light was off and speedometer now works. So I wonder if disconnecting battery cleared it or if something else caused it to go away? After 20 minutes of driving, stopping and another car wash(first one did a crappy job!) drove on home still with no light on and speedometer working. I'm hoping it doesn't come back. And back to the transmission issue, it hasn't happened again in the 1 day that has elapsed since. Transmission seems to shift ok, the only thing that felt different to me while I have had the car is that it seems to be geared low or possibly taking to long to shift out into OD. It doesn't happen all the time, but sometimes I notice after letting off the gas from mild accelaration, it takes a second or two for it to shift out. My transmission mechanic friend via phone told me if the lockup wasn't working properly the check engine light would be one. But of course, that light came on under different circumstances and now has went back off. Any ideas?

    3.The maintenance required slot or whatever it is on the guages cluster is red. What does this mean and how can it be reset. I assumed this probably come on after 100,000 miles or something. Anything to be worried about?

    4.I know I need a new timing belt because it has not been changed yet. What will this cost me on average? I hear anywhere from $300 to 500. Are there any other maintenance items I should be doing at 117,000 miles? I have bought this car for commuting so I hope to get another 100,000 miles out of it at least. I hope with diligent maintenance and care this can be accomplished. I have always wanted to own a Civic and I'm excited to have one now. In just two days, I love it even with the issues I have mentioned. I hope none are too serious. Thanks for any feedback guys!

    One other thing, I guess if the sticker for the car(yep it was still in the glove box!)says it didn't come with keyless entry then I probably can't add a remote and program it right? I would need to install a system? Just wishful thinking I guess!...
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    1. The SRS light can come on if one of the sensors is bad. Unfortunately, by disconnecting the battery any code that was stored indicating why the light was on was lost.

    2.a. Hopefully you got a copy of the owners manual. There should be a section in it on all of the indicator lights, and what they mean, including why the D indicator would flash. Any code that was stored was lost when the battery was disconnected.

    2.b. Honda has "grade logic" in the automatic transmissions, which controls shifting behavior. Disconnecting the battery returned the settings to the default.

    3. The maintenance required light is mileage based and is supposed to remind you that a service is due. There should be a slot on the display near the light that you can insert a key in to that will reset that light until the next service interval.

    4. Have it changed now, today. The price range you mentioned is reasonable.

    If you don't have an Owners Manual for the car please get one and read it cover to cover. Your local Honda dealer should be able to order one for you, or you can order one from

    non-car smiley
  • I have a 1995 Honda Cicvic EX - Car has been a great car but the AC went this year. I have had 4 Compressors replaced in the car - bad lot of compressors I have been told. Well got on that kinda works now but....

    Cold air blows in the morning - blows the afternoon but runs for about 5 minutes in the evening then the unit shuts off. If you check the harness it appears the compressor is getting no power at all. Mechanic has told me the cars computer may be acting up and need to have it analyzed.

    I live in Florida - where no AC means pure hell.
  • bcumminsbcummins Posts: 16
    I've noticed recently that my 2001 Civic EX makes a strange squeak/squeal when all of the following are true:
    1)The A/C is running
    2)The Brake is depressed
    3)The car moves from a low idle to a higher idle (I'm guessing to support the A/C?)

    When turned off the A/C the squeak stops. It also does not happen if I don't have my foot on the break. I mainly notice it when I'm at a stop sign or waiting in line at a drive thru.

    The closest thing I can liken the sound to is stepping on a dogs chew toy.

    Anybody have an idea of what might be causing this and/or how I can remedy it?
  • bcumminsbcummins Posts: 16
    My 2001 Civic EX has 36K miles. I bought it in the Fall of 2004 with 28K miles. When I last got my oil changed at a Valvoline place last week they suggested I change my Automatic Transmission Fluid. They were pushing a $90 flush.

    My buddy told me to make sure I go somewhere that knows Hondas since they use a special ATF. I called the dealer and the service rep surprisingly suggested that I really only needed to have my ATF replaced rather than flushed. I asked her if I needed to worry about all the fluid left in the torque converter and she told me I probably wouldn't need a total flush until 90 or 100K miles. Any thoughts? Am I safe getting a drain/replace at a Lube Joint as long as they use Honda's ATF Z1?
  • purchased 3 weeks ago.
    700 miles on it.
    PROBLEM: starting from the first day of driving.
    whenever I remove my foot from the acceleration pedal (now matter gently or harsh), the car seems to slow down very quickly. it was slowing down by 10miles/hour in 8 seconds on the flat road. even if the car is going downhill, it still keep on slowing down but at a moderate rate. I felt that the engine was restrainging the car to roll ahead, which doesn't happen to any of the cars that I have ever driven. is this a problem? or this is something related to the engine-to-be-broken-in issue? Since this is the first brand new car I have, I really don't have any idea.
    I filled the gas tank twice so far. did a little caculation, around 30mpg, far from the EPA rating 31/38. is this related to the engine preventing the car from rolling ahead? Please help me solve this puzzle. Thank you very much.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    Why would you not be telling your Honda dealer to immediately resolve the problem under your new car warranty, instead of asking here on this forum? Surely, the factory-trained staff there can quickly provide you with a satisfactory resolution to your concerns.
  • I have a 98 civic lx and the door latch does not appear to be working. I can't open the door from the inside or the outside. The rods are still connected to the latch, but it doesn't seem to be moving the latch. I have the door panel partially removed, though it's kind of hard to do without the door open. I'd like to be able to get the door open so I can figure out what is wrong with it. Any ideas on how I can force the latch to open?
  • As I am driving I find that the car rattles starting at 80 and then gets progressively worse moving towards the 90s, It is worse when not accelorationg. I'm wondering if its the stock wheels, which im replacing with 17 inch rims, or the suspension. If anyone has any tips on making the car smooth at these speeds it would be appreciated.
  • rowaxerowaxe Posts: 12
    I have an '85 honda CRX Si and i'm trying to find a replacement sensor for the engine. it's a 1600 DOHC. I'm stuck in New Zealand right now so I don't have my usual base of resources. I'm having an idle speed problem I need to isolate. The engine is idling erratically when it's warming up. once I run if for a couple of hours it's fine. when I start it cold it's fine. I pulled the honda shop manual off a UK website and it said to check the TA Sensor. i asked around here and the mechanics said they'd never heard of a TA Sensor and it was probably the fast idle sensor.

    Question 1) Is a TA and fast idle sensor the same thing? (if not, which one would be the most likely culprit?)

    Question 2) What other cars have the same motor so I can pull the part off a salvage-it-yourself type yard?
  • garyshgarysh Posts: 1
    Hi I would like to ask you about the honda "grade logic" in automatic transmittions.

    I own a 96 civic VTi and I changed my battery about 6 months ago, these last few months my auto tranny has been playing up and last week it wont even shift to 4th gear from 3rd (70kph is like the highest i can go). My mechanic friend told me to take it into honda car service which i already booked, but then he also mentioned that it might have been that i changed the battery and that i need to reconfigure the computer inside the car? Would that sound right?

    Also if it is the transmittion problem, i am looking at a worse case scenario of replacing it, however i know it would cost a whooping amount of money so i can anyone tell me if i replace the transmittion, how much guarantee can i get that it wont play up again??? Any reply would be great help thanks!
This discussion has been closed.