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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    An '02 Civic LX 2 door with 13K miles just had the second window regulator replaced. Parts people say this is very common. Has anyone else had one of these go out? Has anyone gotten Honda to stand the repair a few months after the 36 month warranty ran out? I would expect this failure in a Yugo, but not a Honda!

    I had window regulators fail on the 2002 Si in the first 6 months of ownership. I called Honda corporate and complained. They offered lifetime warranty on the window regulators. What ever questions you have, you should address to Honda corporate, rather than the dealer. Dealer does not like warranty work becuase Honda does not pay them $80/hour they can charge you.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Where is the low refrigerant switch located? It is full of freon I had the system vaccumed and then recharged but still wont turn on. Is this a dealer part or can I get it at a local parts house.

    You wold have to refer to the shop manual for specifics. I know the general idea of how things function. Not specifics of each vehicle. That is what shop manual is for.
  • Jere, I got the exact same problem described that you have. My windshield cracked this past weekend and I had it replaced on Tuesday. I didn't drive the car again until Thursday. When I hopped in, the windows didn't work. I haven't had time to explore it much. I checked and swapped each of the fuses with no luck. I am wondering if the window repair didn't damage a wire somewhere in the framework and now it is shorting out the window power to the chasis. I will let you know what I find when I get some time to look into it. If you find anything else, please let me know.
  • I bought a new Honda Civic 5 months back.

    (1) In the maintanance schedule it says oil should be checked every time i fill gas.
    Is that necessary. I haven't been doing it at all.

    (2) I have a doubt regarding "severe" driving condition. I drive 2 miles to work 4 times
    a day.(morning, afternoon, evening). Is it severe. If that is the case, i think i should
    change my oil at 5000 miles. Is that right.

    (3) When i recently checked the oil, the oil level seemed to be below the minimum level.
    But i put only 2500 miles.

    I am not sure whether i am checking it correctly. Is it possible at 2500 miles, the oil
    level is less than the minimum.

    Thanks for your help. Just a little bit confused and want to take proper care
    of my car.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    1) You should check your oil at least every couple of weeks. Sooner couldn't hurt.
    2) Driving under 2 miles doesn't give the oil a chance to really warm up properly. Your Owner's Manual is correct in suggesting that you are therefore operating under the Severe schedule.
    3) Adding one quart of oil every 2,500 miles isn't excessive. Just check it regularly to see if there is a pattern. Make sure to wait a few minutes, after turning the engine off, to allow the oil to settle into the sump before using your dipstick to check the level.
  • Thanks for your time in responding.

    (1) I hope i should buy the oil from Honda dealer and fill it. I hope it is simple
    and can be done by myseflf ?

    (2) Is the same process applicable for coolant too ?

    (3) I must then replace the oil, at 5000 miles as recommended by Honda maintainance
    schedule ?
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    1) Your Owner's Manual specifies the grade and viscosity (weight) of oil needed for your car. You can buy it anywhere. Oil and Oil filter changes are not difficult, as long as you have the appropriate tools, room to work (you may need to buy a set of portable ramps to allow you to fit under the car). Most important is to properly recycle the old oil at a reputable collection center.

    2) Follow your Owner's Manual recommendations regarding frequency of coolant changes. It's a bit messier, so you may want to have that done in a service facility.

    3) Yes, based upon your severe type of driving, 5,000 mile intervals are indicated.
  • Blane,

    thanks for your response.

    I am a little bit confused....

    I think, if the oil level is less, i just need to add additional oil.(as indicated in your earlier

    I think this is different than the oil change process (to be done at 5000 miles)

    (or) are they same process ?
  • I am having the same issue after having the dealer just change the high pressure switch because of the same symptoms. They said the next step is to change the thermal switch, then they can recheck the system and see if the compressor and or other related parts may be bad. If that is the case they said the cost is $1400 to replace.. Sounds kind of high since I know compressors are about $300 new. Let me know if you or anyone know of something different it could be.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    If your drinking water glass is half full, it is OK to add some more water in order to fill it up.

    Same thing with oil. Just fill it only to the correct mark on the dipstick.
  • I have a 1998 Civic EX with 70,000 miles. I just took it to the dealer and they told me 3 things were recommended to be fixed:

    1) Right rear trailing arm bushing is torn, and left is cracked, they recommended repairing both and performing a wheel alignment. Estimate: $595.

    2) Battery failed load test, they recommended replacing the battery. Estimate: $109.95.

    3) Oil pan gasket is leaking, they recommended replacement. Estimate: $310.

    I wanted to know if these are common problems, if the estimates they gave were appropriate for the work to be done, and most importantly, if anybody knows any service shops in the area that are good. I live about 30 miles south of San Francisco in Palo Alto, but would be willing to drive up to San Francisco, or down to San Jose for good service.

    I appreciate any recommendations.
  • I have a 97 Honda Civic LX with 110K miles on it. When taking off from a dead stop and the shift selector is in D4 the transmission will not downshift to 1st. I have to manually downshift or it sounds like a manual starting off in 3rd gear. Another interesting thing I noticed is when the vehicle is under way and I mash the accelerator it downshifts fine. I have noticed when the engine and tranny are cold everything works like it should. The problem only starts after about 15-20 minutes of driving.
    I just recently change the tranny fluid with Honda fluid and, per another forum, I replaced the linear solenoid.
    thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    If the battery is the original one in the car, that's probably a good idea.

    The pan gasket really depends on 1) how much it is leaking, which you can determine by placing some newspaper under the engine after you turn it off, and seeing how much oil leaked on the paper, keeping in mind that it "spreads" on paper AND 2) whether or not someone has gotten under there and LIGHTLY tightened the pan gasket bolts.

    The bushings? Hard to say. I'd get a second opinion from a TRUSTED front end/alignment specialty shop, not a CHAIN store, but an independent who's been in business in your town for a while. Sometimes a crack or tear is nothing, sometimes it is a safety concern and sometimes it can go quite a while longer.


  • My girlfriend is having the exact same problem with her 1998 Civic Hatchback. Although her symptoms are not to the point of not being able to start the vehicle.

    What was your solution? We have already replace the VSS. Any guidance at all would be greatly appreciated.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    " 2) Battery failed load test, they recommended replacing the battery. Estimate: $109.95. "

    $109.95??? Man I'm in the wrong business. Take it to Wal-Mart, should be about $50 plus free installation.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Well it's a dealer after all. You pay for convenience and you're paying their shop rate.


  • i have a 91 honda civic DX with approx 235,000 miles i just bought it from a lady that supposably dogged it out pretty bad. at first i noticed when its in a high rev it blows out a bluish grey smoke and it sometimes back fires when in around 2nd or 3rd gear. i just got it about 3 weeks ago and i have drove it about 30 miles trying to figure out why it overheats after 10 minutes, wont start after 10 minutes of driving, engine knocks, and sometimes in 1st gear the power just is lost when u floor it. today i was checking the fluids in the car because supposably the women that sold it to me said everything was takin care of engine wise(it runs great)....turns out it has rust in the radiator no water...quart low on oil... and no oil change since 03'. we put tap water in the raditoer cleaned the radiator return out and filled up the oil because its only been sittin not runned so the old oil is still good i think. i runned it and less bluish smoke came out but the temp gauge didnt seem to work right and eventually it overheated again and then we popped the radiator cap off and it was boiling but the temp gauge was still down, is my engine done for, new radiator? timing ? maybe no tempature gauge? i am clueless plz help!!!!!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Oh My Gosh..........I just watched Jeff Foxworthy.....You might be a redneck if....

    " new radiator? timing ? maybe no tempature gauge? "

    How about a new car?
  • I also say get the battery replaced. Don't forget to write down your radio presets before taking it in. Trust me, if you were driving an American heap, the dealer would never check the battery at any service interval with a voltmeter before it failed. You'd be on a hook.

    Sure, your dealer wants to make a few bucks, but I found they also want to keep their customers happy, because that means repeat business and future product sales. It also means no angry customers a month later coming in on a tow truck for a dead battery. Personally, I think you have a good dealer. Pay to get this done while it still starts.

    As for the rest, you be the judge. Oil on the ground is a dead giveaway you've got a problem. Make sure to keep an eye on your oil level. If the engine is not losing any oil and the leak is extremely minor, you can let it go for awhile. As for the bushing, I'd be more concerned about that. Bad signs are usually uneven tire wear, vibrations, or the vehicle doesn't "ride" like it used to. Then again, it could minor and last a good deal longer.

    If your past experiences with this dealer have been impeccable and you can afford to have the work done, then by all means go for it. But get the battery replaced no matter what else you decide about the other work.

    As for the HOST'S newspaper recommendation, I'd avoid it. It's a fire hazard. One gust of wind causing the newpaper to touch anything close to a HOT exhaust or for whatever reason causing the newspaper to attach itself to the vehicle is asking for trouble.
This discussion has been closed.