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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • I just bought my '06 Civic EX 1 month ago. 2 weeks after purchase they had to replace both the front struts. and 1 week after i got it back, i hear ticking/rattling noises from the front passenger side, and the rear passenger. Also, my car vibrates a lot when idle. A few days ago, i went to start my car, and it had trouble starting, the engine rolled a few seconds before it turned on. I also want to trade it back to get another. Did you have any luck trading/selling it kreative11, or if anyone has had any success in gettin a repacement? Let me know.
  • i just had the same problem the other day how much did it cost you? thanks did it fix the problem
  • scentscent Posts: 5
    My was covered under warranty so I couldn't tell you the cost. i'm picking it up tomorrow... I'll keep you udated if it fixed it or not.
  • thanks i appreciate it.Mine is scheduled for diagnosis tommorrow.Hope its not the transmission.
  • scentscent Posts: 5
    I picked up my car tonight and so far (knock on wood) it is running great, nice smooth shifitng. i noticed a quote of $57.00 on the paper work they gave me, I didn't have to pay anyhting b/c it was under warranty... must be a 5 sec change out... unplug old sensor... plug new in. Good Luck. :)
  • good for you.Im taking mine tomorrow morning,hope its not major.Thanks and goodluck.I will let you know what happened,if youre still interested.
  • raj10raj10 Posts: 1
    I've been having this problem. On mornings when it appears there is a lot of moisture in the air, my 99 Civic turns over but does not start. After trying for about 30 minutes, it finally kicks in and sputters, emitting white smoke (seems to be water/moisture?). Then it drives fine (with a little hesitation but only briefly), and starts fine without a problem.

    1) Three weeks ago when this happened the first time my mechanic suggested changing the main relay.

    2) Then the check engine light came on within a day. The mechanic claimed to 'clean' the Oxygen sensors, but within minutes of getting the car back it came on again.

    3) I then went to the dealer and the dealer found a crack in the exhaust manifold. Got that changed for an arm and a leg :(

    4) Still the check engine light came back on, so I went back to th dealer and had to get the primary Oxygen sensor changed as well.

    5) Again the light came back on within a few hours, so the dealer looked at it, and it now appears my secondary oxygen sensor is out. They have ordered the part and will change it (will not charge for labor though) in two weeks.

    6) This morning once again the engine wouldnt start - turning over, but no ignition. After 30 minutes it kicked in, white smoke, then fine. A little sputtering, some hesitation upon acceleration, but then its fine.

    Someone mentioned vapor lock, I asked my mechanic but he shrugged it off. I dont think the guy knows what to do. So I want to go back to the dealer. But before I do so, I'd like some informed suggestions from folks on this forum if possible. Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long note.

    p.s. I installed an air filter (from OReillys) about two months ago which appears dirty now. Could this cause any of the starting problems?
  • mvoytenmvoyten Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 honda civic ex.... I had my car broken in to last november and recently found out that I can not retrieve codes on my car. Recently I have had some problems with my car. I was driving at about 80 and my car just lost power. I had to pull of the hw and the car stalled. I replaced the battary not to long ago and my coolent is at the right level. If I let my car sit for about 5 to ten minutes it works fine again. It seems to happen if I push my car above 4000 rpm..... can I get some advice on what could be the problem..... There is no water in the oil or no smoke.... and the head gasket is not wet so I think my head gasket is ok.... please help.
  • I just purchased a used 97 civic 2dr 5spd EX with just under 117k mi on it for less than $5000! Real nice car, but I have a few questions regarding my purchase. Out of everything I tested and looked at and made sure worked, I overlooked the windshield wipers. Ok, so they seem to not want to "sit". they work but i need to time it just right when i turn them off so they're not in the middle of the window. any suggestions? i haven't a clue. oh, and also i'm concerned with the timing belt. is there a way to check it or is it the kind of thing that if you're there you may as well have it replaced? if so should i get the water pump done too? don't those two kind of go hand in hand? well i'm off to drive but hey, thank you all in advance for your help.
  • ellllellll Posts: 18
    Most interesting about front struts/..several models inc Civic seem to have failures..Sorry to hear of two being bad on the ref. above from lilhartastone..others also have had problems..

    (The following is on my overall satisfaction...)

    I would like to report for me however, after a 6800 mile "tour" in my 2006 Civic over the last two weeks..It is much as advertised...and then some. I am MUCH more happy now..Got 47+ MPG in the high plains of 70 MPH...Averaged 43+ for the trip, at 60 to 75 MPH all on sec. roads..(Only short stretches of interstate...most roads in the west of USA are now at 70 mph..)

    Very minor road noise for the size and everything worked great, inc. stereo, air, and controls as far as I can tell...

    It has very little trouble in the passes, (Wolf Creek/Monarch and others at 10,500 ft+ to around 12,000..some really hard approaches ..tho' you have to use revs...)...The control at speed in mountian curves is really good for a small sedan...(and the strut on my rt. front performed fine, tho' the noise is distracting on small bumps , STILL..!! It wll be repaired, no cost to me, in the next few weeks...waiting on the part)..

    I am pleased, overall and would buy another in a minute...and to all complainers in general..if you are not getting reasonable MPG and performance you must really drive hard...Maybe you need a sport coupe..BMW or sim...

    I get 29-35 MPG here at home, in town according to "how much the foot is on the floorboard"..Floorboard operation will cut you down a lot, you know..(I have been known to drive too agressively in town)...

    My Regards, to all, John (ellll)
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Sounds like the windshield wiper motor. If you know a reliable mechanic, have them check that out. It will probably cost a few bucks so I would just live with it.

    And also check to see if the timing belt was changed. Your owner's manual should list when it should be changed. If you don't have one, you should be able to download one from Honda's website. My guess is that it's over due. Call all the convenient Honda shops for a quote, and assuming your Civic is like my 99 CRV, have them also change the water pump and accessory belts. They usually have "timing belt replacement" special packages that include all that and a loaner car. My CRV was $600. Good luck.
  • civic4civic4 Posts: 33
    My owners manual says not to change the oil on my 2004 Civic sooner than the 10,000 mile interval, I, on the other hand, am concerned because I owned an Audi A4 previously which ran into problems with an"oil sludge" problem. I am not clear as to why this occurs but am also aware Toyota had the same issue with some its engines loosing oil pressure limiting thier ability to access oil while driving due to this same oil sludge problem. Anybody know if there are similar problems with Hondas and if more frequent oil changes are the answer?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    Certain Toyota's run clean also, but the clean engines unfortunately are interdispersed with so called sludge monsters.

    Honda's as a rule run very very clean. I ran the first 10,000 mile OCI with conventional oil (factory fill actually) on my 2004 Honda Civic. The second OCI I switched to 0w20 Mobil One (synthetic) till 20,000 miles, where I also changed the oil filter for the first time. I currently am running a 20,000 mile OCI with Mobil One 0w20 where I will change the oil and oil filter at 40,000 miles or every other oil change or 20,000 miles. The thing runs like the proverbial top. It gets a range of 37-42 mpg in a plain jane 54 mile R/T daily commute.

    I really can't answer your concerns on the Audi A4 but I run the VW Jetta TDI product with 25,000 mile OCI's with Mobil One 5w40, and IT runs like the proverbial top also.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    I doubt the manual actually says "Never change the oil more often than once every 10,000 miles."
    Sometimes they say don't change the very first factory oil for some minimum period of time if it is a special "break-in oil" that doesn't do its job if over anxious owners rush out to change it at 500 or 1,000 miles due to 1970's-era fear of "metal shavings" in the oil.
    More likely it says 10,000 miles is the recommended service interval for normal driving and more often for severe driving (such as driving mostly very short trips where the car doesn't warm up properly or daily bumper to bumper traffic commuting.) I'm sure they have an alternate interval for whatever they consider qualifies as severe driving or a maintenance minder sensor can monitor your driving conditions and set the maintenance required light to turn on at an appropriately adjusted time/mileage based on that.
  • civic4civic4 Posts: 33
    Thanks for both replies,

    One other question;

    I was informed if you choose to go with synthetic oil for any car, you cannot go back to using regular oil. I am considering the use of synthetic oil, but is this true?

  • tomsr1tomsr1 Posts: 130
    My owners manual says to use the computer generated
    oil change system but the dealer says to change the oil every 5000 miles.The book does say if the system does
    not indicate a need for oil change after a year to change it anyway.I think I should do what Honda says not what the dealer says.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    No, it is not true. New cars are backward and forwards compatible. The oils are even interchangeable. So I would not worry about it in the least.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    For those with OLM's, this REALLY takes the guess work out of the equation. Upshot: no brainer, OLM goes on it is time to change the oil. Note the miles and really compare whether or not you are truly in the "SEVERE" category. The real problem is most folks do not BELIEVE or related it to the verbiage of the "generally acknowledged 3,000 mile" OCI, which is total overkill!!!! . In the case of the 10,000 mile OCI for the 2004 Honda Civic, most folks simply think themselves in the SEVERE category. This is oxymoronic in that the owners manual CLEARLY states that MOST folks fall within the NORMAL category. Even if they meet one standard for SEVERE most times!! Most folks feel that pushing it is 5,000 miles. So regardless of what the OLM says the FEAR factor kicks in.

    So for example I have a car with an OLM and the factory fill is Mobil One 5w30. The way I drive the vehicle triggers the oil change indicator to go on at 14,500 to 14,800 miles for a recommended 15,000 mile OCI.
  • Any luck with that rattling/metallic noise near the right front wheel well or right front door? have the same problem and my dealer hasn't found a fix yet
  • While i was driving i picked up speed.. and about 2 seconds later i look at the speedometer.. and i was doing 100 mph. when i brought down the window.. i can tell by the wind, that i was at least doing 60 to 70 mph.. def not 100. what should i do? Has anyone encountered this kind of a problem with the digital speedometer display of the 2006 Honda Civic sedan EX?
This discussion has been closed.