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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • pj23pj23 Posts: 158
    I noticed the exact same thing on my 2001 EX Coupe, with respect to the rear bumper. The paint on my car is beginning to rub/peel off below the passenger side rear light cluster.

    As for the roof, I've not noticed any denting. BUT, I have noticed a persistent and annoying squeak/rattle coming from the moonroof when the car goes over an uneven bump, or when I am turning into a parking lot or driveway, and one front wheel or the other is pushed higher than the rest of the car. It reminds of the noises I used to hear from the T-tops on my '85 Camaro Z28. That car had the chassis stiffness of a wet rag. I really hope that is not the issue with the Civics, but with what you're describing, I'm afraid it may be.
  • My 1998 Civic EX Cpe, auto transmission, 48k miles
    makes a humming noise coming from the front between 55-65 mph and also during deceleration.
    First I thought it is coming from the tires, so
    I rotated them, but the problem is still there.
    I changed the trnsmission fluid, the humming sound
    is still there. Anybody have similar problem? How
    did you get it fix?
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    I also have the rattle/noise in the sunroof/headliner area near the sunroof. It does not happen on smooth surfaces - only when turning into parking lots or garages. I have to get my 7500 service on my 01 Civic EX Coupe on Saturday - going to have the dealer check it out.

    The driver seat in my car also seems to move a little bit in it's tracks, when I brake. Anyone have that problem on new Civs?
  • pj23pj23 Posts: 158
    Let us know what they tell you. I am waiting for my first maintenance interval before I have it looked at, but would be interested in what Honda's response to the complaint might be before then.
  • devoredevore Posts: 39
    I've got a 2001 Civic EX and experienced a persistent "squeaking" or "rattling" from the headliner just above my head as the driver.

    I noticed that it would go away if I would put my finger in the gap between the headliner and the moonroof interior sliding cover (with it closed.) Basically it seemed like "pulling down" slightly on the headliner would stop the noise.

    When I took my car in for the 10,000 mile maintenance (BTW the "check engine" light will illuminate and stay on when you hit 10,000 miles, techs will turn it off when you bring it in) I mentioned the problem to the service department. They "fixed" the problem by "lowering the liner by using felt inserts."

    It's true, it doesn't rattle anymore, but I am a bit worried about "pulling down" on the headliner. I asked them specifically if these inserts would eventually cause the headliner to pull away from the roof of the car, and he said that it wouldn't.
  • I thought it was the Maintenance Required Light that came on between 7,500-10,000 miles. You can actually reset the light yourself, too. The instructions are in the manual.
  • Hello,
    This is my first post here, and I'm hoping someone can help me find out what we did wrong.

    My brother in law has a 93 civic ex, 1.6litre that was running when he stopped by yesterday. He had been losing coolant little by little(very little), and someone recommended head gasket replacement. I suggested a compression test first, since the car seemed to be running well and wasn't blowing white smoke.

    We pulled the plugs, ran the test, and now there seems to be no spark. We later read the haynes book, and it says to disable the fuel & ignition systems. Being the fools we are, we did neither. We bought a new ignition module, and this seemed to have no effect. The coil passed the ohm meter test, so we didn't try replacing that. A friend of his told us that if the tach bounces while cranking, the coil is bad, but if it didn't bounce, the module was at fault. The tach didn't bounce with the new module, nor does it with the original one reinstalled. I'm wondering if we didn't damage the pickup module somehow. That would seem to fit in, with having no bounce on the tach(even with a new module). We're not sure which direction to look in now.

    Thanks in advance for any help offered by anyone!
  • eludwigeludwig Posts: 82
    As a former owner of a US-built '95 Civic LX 5-speed and current owner of a Japanese-built '00 Accord EX 5-speed, I'm amazed by the number of problems on some of the Honda and Acura boards.

    My Civic had no problems in 4 years and 60k miles of ownership through the harsh winters of upstate NY. And it was definitely built better than my 1 year old Accord, which has clutch problems, terrible paint (nighthawk black), and woeful fuel mileage. It appears to me that Honda is becoming complacent, as the likes of VW/Audi play catch-up.

    At the same time, Honda's cars (with minor exceptions) seem to be getting much more boring and mundane. Take the new Civics (minus the upcoming hot-hatch) and my Accord, for example.

    Honestly, when I had my Civic I didn't think I'd ever own anything but a Honda. With my Accord experience (boring, too damn big, quality issues, etc) I'm not sure I'll ever buy a Honda again. Have they lost track of the target?

    Does anyone else feel the same way?
  • goody01goody01 Posts: 11
    For as long as I've had my '91 Civic wagon, I've had no serious problems. That is, no problems except the ignition coil. It's gone on me four times in the past four years, all without warning. I must admit that two of those occasions were bad repair work and/or bad parts. Still, the ignition coil is the only blemish on an otherwise superb vehicle. I read somewhere that ignition coils are one of the few things that tend to go wrong on Hondas, at least the older ones. I guess I'm not alone.
  • devoredevore Posts: 39
    eludwig:

    I guess I've kind of had the opposite experience. I owned an '89 Accord 4DR for about 5 or 6 years, and finally sold it in 1997 when it had about 190,000 miles on it. It was still running beautifully, of course. :)

    I then owned a 93 Buick LeSabre, which had a host of small niggling problems, even though when I got it it only had about 36,000 miles on it. It was a major gas hog and was very ugly.

    This year as a result of an accident with that car, I was able to return to the Honda family and bought a new 2001 Civic. I've been more than happy with the overall quality of the car, taking into account that 2001 was a redesign year for that model. The gas mileage is great, and IMHO at least, the styling of the Civic is great. I'd much rather have a car with slightly more conservative styling so it looks good for many years, than a car like the Focus with more radical styling that I think will look tacky in a few years.
  • garypengarypen Posts: 1,482
    In a few years? It looks plenty tacky right now. IMHO, there are only two cars uglier than the Ford Focus: The Pontiac Aztek, and the Toyota Echo.
  • garypengarypen Posts: 1,482
    The distributor on my 94 Civic DX HB has to be rotated all the way to one side to get proper ignition timing. Is it possible this was caused by improper installation of the timing belt? Could something else cause this?
    I purchased the car about 10 months ago, and since I don't know when the timing belt was last changed, I thought I'd get a new one, and have them also look into this issue. The mechanic that performed the last change must have been an idiot. He didn't even reattach the upper timing cover properly.
    I just wanted to get some input from the fine Honda experts that post on this board. I've learned so much just by lurking these posts.
    P.S. I also have been hearing some valve noise. what is the recommended interval for valve adjustment? As long as they're removing the valve cover, I'll probably have them adjust the valves, too.
    Thanks.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    If I remember correctly you have to jump the SCS connector before you check the timing. Are you doing that? If not that could be the reason for the timing appearing to be off. I would think if it was off that much that it would not run very good.
    Valves get adjusted every 30k or when they are noisy.
  • garypengarypen Posts: 1,482
    Thanks. I did jump it (if you're talking about the connector by right kick panel). I can get the timing within spec. However, the distributor must be all the way to one side. That's what seems odd. It should be somewhere in the center range of the bracket, shouldn't it?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Usally it is in the center of the range when in spec so maybe you do have a belt off a tooth and the timing corrected by someone to make up for it.
  • garypengarypen Posts: 1,482
    Thanks! It feels good to know that a weekend mechanic like me can come up with the proper dignosis! I won't be giving up my day job anytime soon, though.
    Except for the possible timing belt misalignment and the valve noise, this 1994, 260,000 mile Civic runs pretty darn well, I must say.
  • manuelmanuel Posts: 13
    I wasn't sure where to post this, but i have the oppurtunity to purchase a 200 civic si with only 29k miles on it, the only problem is that it is a flood damaged car. At this point i could buy it for about $4000, can anyone with an expert opinion tell me what serious problems i should be looking at if i bought a flood damaged car. Please any feedback would help. Thanks
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    If the engine, transmission, power steering, and brake system were drained, flushed, and refilled immediately after the flooding - and the car promptly started and driven; there's a fair chance that your operational problems will be limited to major electrical problems. I agree that $4000 for this car is tempting but you will will continue to encounter many reliability problems associated with corrosion and decomposition for many months. If the above post-flood actions weren't taken, I wouldn't consider this car at all. However, if the flood water was calm and you know the depth was no more than about 13", the outlook could be much better.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    My car is fixed. Took a couple of hours. Mine was rattling up near in windshield, under the passenger side vanity mirror. Don't know what exactly they did, but it does not rattle anymore. I think the tech mentioned just lubing something in there. They ordered a seat track for me...should be in in a few days.

    Of course, since my tired have now been rotated, they make that warping noise when going over 60 mph now. I guess that means they were not balanced correctly when I picked up the car.....figures.
  • I have a 97 Civic LX with 68K on it. All maintenance has been done at the local dealership. Recently I heard a LOUD knocking or banging sound while driving the car. I have been able to reproduce the sound (not a sound I like to hear and reproduce) since the first occurence, but the technician at Honda has not. I have heard spark knock before, and this is NOT spark knock--the sound is much louder and seems to come from deep in the engine.

    The sound occurs when the engine is under load (with or without the AC on) and usually when I first use it or after it has been used and sat for several hours before the next use. I am concerned that the sound is coming from what I've heard described as the "bottom of the engine". I had the Honda service dept. perform the 75K work on the car, which included valve adjustment, etc. and the sound was still there, just a bit softer (more like a rattling spark knock, but with a louder ticking or banging noise). Yesterday the loud knock/bang appeared again.

    Someone mentioned to me that the oil in the valve area is "bleeding down" when the car is not in use.

    Any other suggestions? I'm anxious to find some sort of solution since the problem is random and I'm not sure I'll be able to get the mechanic to hear the problem before the entire engine blows (which is what sounds like will happen if the problem can't be found and repaired.

    Thanks for any suggestions anyone has for me.
This discussion has been closed.