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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dalesr3rcrdalesr3rcr Member Posts: 1
    Hi i own a 94 EX civic coupe with 1.6 SOHC vtec w/5sp i am having problems with transmission the car shifts great and gets good acceloration when the engine is cold and doesnt seem to slip as if the clutch is warn out. When it is hot out and when the engine gets pretty warm the car seems like the clutch is slipping usally around 2-up rpm in pretty much any gear. Its really annoying i have brand new flywheel,clutch,inputshaft bearing,slave cylinder,pressureplate. I searched the forum and the net for answers cant seem to find anything about it. Also this is the 2nd transmission that has done it. could the clutch master cylinder be going bad? Also when the car seems to slip when warm blasting the heat helps. i dont know if the transmission be overheating? I really need help on this. I hope someone here has the answer thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Also when the car seems to slip when warm blasting the heat helps. i dont know if the transmission be overheating?

    Unless I missed something, Honda manuals are not cooled by the coolant.

    When they replaced the fly wheel and clutch, did the replace the main bearing and seal? How old is the oil in the tranny? How old is the brake fuid in the clutch?
  • garcia1garcia1 Member Posts: 1
    96-00 have a problem with the fuel rely take it out bang on it, if it starts that mean ur rely is bad i had the a 98 civic and it was doing the same thing but it only does it when its hot
  • leadfoots4leadfoots4 Member Posts: 1
    have your clutch hydraulic system bled and refilled with fresh fluid. sounds like you may have air or water in the fluid that expands when hot preventing the clutch from fully engaging.
  • moose186moose186 Member Posts: 2
    I'm a novice so be kind...

    My driver's side mirror and casing were smashed the other day. I bought the replacement part and just need to install it. Do I need to remove the door panel in order to install this? If so, where do I access the door panel screws to remove it?

    thanks.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Check the vacuum lines on the engine. A vacuum leak will cause a "High Idle", (lean mixture).
  • asg2307asg2307 Member Posts: 8
    Just purchased. Auto will not stay running at idle. Just completed tune up. Where should I go from here?
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    What did you do with regards to the "tune-up"? Was the engine running properly before the "tune-up"? Give us some more information!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I'm a novice so be kind...

    My driver's side mirror and casing were smashed the other day. I bought the replacement part and just need to install it. Do I need to remove the door panel in order to install this? If so, where do I access the door panel screws to remove it?

    thanks.


    If you have EX coupe then you may not need to remove the door panel. EX coupe comes with 6 speaker system. You just need to pop the tweeters, and the bolts are right behind it. Not sure if on others the triangle piece is separate from the door panel.
  • carproblemcarproblem Member Posts: 1
    My car is honda civic 99, I just replaced the battery last night, this morning it has been losing power when I waited for green light to freeway twice. It is working ok after restart. But this makes me nervous. Any idea?
  • dantweesedantweese Member Posts: 1
    i have an elemental question about my 1994 honda civic hatchback which, until this morning has been in perfect working order for 104,000 miles. I discovered while in moderately heavy traffic (i.e. not going too fast) that my temperature gauge was above the H mark. i immediately stopped and turned the motor off. there had been no billowing smoke as i have seen before when cars overheat. i opened the hood and found that radiator had apparently sprung a leak--the engine did not sound different than it always has--no strange sounds indicating that it was self destructing. my question is what is the likelihood that i have warped the head or done some other catastrophic internal damage...is it possible to catch this situation in time to prevent something nasty? any insight would be most appreciated.

    thanks

    dan
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My car is honda civic 99, I just replaced the battery last night, this morning it has been losing power when I waited for green light to freeway twice. It is working ok after restart. But this makes me nervous. Any idea?

    Usually batteries don't come fully charged. You just need to drive long distance for an hour ot two to fully charge it, or just put it on a trickle charger overnight.

    Define what is "this morning it has been losing power"?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    i have an elemental question about my 1994 honda civic hatchback which, until this morning has been in perfect working order for 104,000 miles. I discovered while in moderately heavy traffic (i.e. not going too fast) that my temperature gauge was above the H mark. i immediately stopped and turned the motor off. there had been no billowing smoke as i have seen before when cars overheat. i opened the hood and found that radiator had apparently sprung a leak--the engine did not sound different than it always has--no strange sounds indicating that it was self destructing. my question is what is the likelihood that i have warped the head or done some other catastrophic internal damage...is it possible to catch this situation in time to prevent something nasty? any insight would be most appreciated.

    thanks

    dan


    You caught it in time, you probably have nothing to worry about. Just replace the radiator and fill the cooling system with Honda Premixed Antifreeze/Coolant and you should be fine.
  • chenthilchenthil Member Posts: 2
    Hello:

    My 99 Civic EX sedan is doing great. Lately the driver side passenger door stopped working from inside. It will not open from inside, but can open from outside. Could someone please tell me from where to start looking to fix this problem.

    Thank You
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    That happened to one of my cars in the past. It was a broken cable. The door panel was removed and then the cable that ran from the interior handle to the latch at the edge of the door was replaced.
  • stimeystimey Member Posts: 3
    I have a '98 Civic hatchback. It started to play the PGA tour and was putting when i pressed on the gas and then i just cut out. It will start up just fine, but when every time i press the gas it will go back to putting. I checked the battery, the timing belt, the spark plugs......i'm at a loss. Can anyone help?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hello:

    My 99 Civic EX sedan is doing great. Lately the driver side passenger door stopped working from inside. It will not open from inside, but can open from outside. Could someone please tell me from where to start looking to fix this problem.

    Thank You


    Like John said, it is the actuator linkage. You will have to remove the plastic plate from behind the handle, and maybe te door panel to access the damage. Usually it is the linkage rod that just pops out of the door handle lever. I have seen the back side of the door handle crubmle, but it was on a Chevy.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a '98 Civic hatchback. It started to play the PGA tour and was putting when i pressed on the gas and then i just cut out. It will start up just fine, but when every time i press the gas it will go back to putting. I checked the battery, the timing belt, the spark plugs......i'm at a loss. Can anyone help?

    Fuel filter?
    When was complete tune up done?
  • stimeystimey Member Posts: 3
    it's been awhile since i've had a complet tune up.
  • hondaalhondaal Member Posts: 4
    I Put a new radiator,water pump,thermastat and head gasket in my 89 Civic Dx. I start the car and when the fans come on, they stay on.(takes a while for them to come on) I let the car run for 20 min with the hood up. My coolant level is ok. Tem gauge is in the normal position. What is going on? Does anyone know?
    Thanks. Great Forum!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    it's been awhile since i've had a complet tune up.

    It may be time for the tune up, again.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I Put a new radiator,water pump,thermastat and head gasket in my 89 Civic Dx. I start the car and when the fans come on, they stay on.(takes a while for them to come on) I let the car run for 20 min with the hood up. My coolant level is ok. Tem gauge is in the normal position. What is going on? Does anyone know?
    Thanks. Great Forum!


    20 mins for the car to fully warm up at idle is not bad. When you say the fans stay on, how long do they stay on for? do the fans eventually turn off? You may have an air buble trapped in the system, or you may need the fan switch replaced.
    You may not have a problem at all. As long as the car is not overheating, you should be fine. If the fans never turn off (with A/c off), then you probably need new fan switch (should go in the lower portion of the radiator)

    What kind of coolant did you use?
    Not sure if it applies to 89, but Honda recommends using Honda Antifreeze only. Even though others out there look the same, trace amounts of silicates will ruin Honda water pump. Others use silicates as lubricants, but in a Honda, silicates act as abrasive.
  • hondaalhondaal Member Posts: 4
    The fans don't turn off. I let the car run for 20 min and the fans still didn't turn off. They go off when I shut the car off. If the car is cool, it takes a while for the fans to come on. I'm using Prestone 50/50 premix. I don't have anything in the lower portion of the radiator.(nothing electrical)Where is the fan switch on this car? How do I get rid of an air bubble?
    Thanks
  • stimeystimey Member Posts: 3
    Thanx. I'll try it and see if that works. Thanx for the help.
  • sirdonsirdon Member Posts: 10
    Hi,
    You may want to change the gas filter if that wasn't done before. Also clean or change the intake air temperature sensor and clean the throttle body.
    Let me know if that does it.
  • civicpowercivicpower Member Posts: 1
    I have a civic 99 ex (D16Y8) I recently changed my stock pistons for p29 pistons. as I push the gas pedal a noise comes out of the engine. It sounds like a truck or something, Im sure the timing is right. Any advise?
  • sirdonsirdon Member Posts: 10
    I recently got a 1993 Honda Civic DX that has on the regular steel rims. I want to know, can the rims for the 2004 Honda Civic fit the 1993?
    I like the look of the 2004 rims. I'm particularly interested in the 14inch rims.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The fans don't turn off. I let the car run for 20 min and the fans still didn't turn off. They go off when I shut the car off. If the car is cool, it takes a while for the fans to come on. I'm using Prestone 50/50 premix. I don't have anything in the lower portion of the radiator.(nothing electrical)Where is the fan switch on this car? How do I get rid of an air bubble?
    Thanks


    If you are going to be doing the work on your car get a service manual Helms manual is the best, but at $70 is pricey (although it is worth every penny) Hayes is good too, and Chilton is probably the worst you can get.
  • hondaalhondaal Member Posts: 4
    I just replaced the Thermo switch and The Temp sensor and still no change. Could it be a relay sticking?
  • azhottieazhottie Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1993 del sol S coupe. It has 97,900 miles on it and for the past 2 years has been sitting untouched due to my insurance wanting to charge me $230 mo. liability only! Anyways i am trying to get it road ready and have already gotten a new distributor, clutch and cv boots for a whopping $1,400(towing + diagnostic). The mechanic advised me when i picked it up the timing belt, water pump, and belts need to be replaced as well as a 90k tune up. Have taken it somewhere new b/c when i tried to start it again to go get the tune up and belts the brand new battery bought 1 month ago was dead (possible alternator??. Would really not like to spend $1400 again as i have a feeling i totally was overcharged for previous work done at other shop. I am 21 year old girl and no some about cars but not enough to look at a invoice and tell if i was charged for non existing parts, extra labor, ect. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to look out for when the bill arrives? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Gullible Girl in AZ
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    good question good insight.

    i had a '94 accord that exhibited the symptom of the fan running even after the car was off - and engine cooled down.

    i opened the hood, opened the relay fuse cover and noticed that the window up/down control relays were the same as the fan (on my model), so as a test, i decided to try the same hunch that the relay was sticking so i swapped out the fan relay for one of the window control relays...that seemed to do the trick, so i went to the parts store and got a new relay for $20 or so bucks. ;)
  • sirdonsirdon Member Posts: 10
    Hi hottie,
    The first thing i'd tell you to consider is this. If the car is already working, do nothing to it except get the alternator checked. If it is good and the battery is not good, simply replace it. Since you had the distributor changed already, I don't think you need to do a tune-up so soon. Simply have the oil checked or changed, whichever is necessary. The 90k tune-up would be only necessary if it has not yet already been done. I'd change the oil every 3K miles and have the tune-up done at 120k instead.
    About the belts and water pump, change them only if there's noticeable oil leakinf from the front seals. Otherwise the work may very well be unnecessary. If you do have to change the waterpump, also have the timing belt and front seals changed at the same time. A $1400 bill is not to be expected. the prior one in my estimation was a little over, but close.
  • sirdonsirdon Member Posts: 10
    Hi hottie,
    If the price included the parts as well, I might have overlooked something they put in, considering you have the bill and I don't. It might seem a little pricey, but that is money you shouldn't have to spend again for time to come. In my estimate, the water pump and timing belt and seals job could cost an average of about $225 not including the price of the parts. Remember that's a balalpark figure and not the exact price. But do that only if it is absolutely necessary.
  • asg2307asg2307 Member Posts: 8
    In regards to a tune-up. Replaced: spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires, both fuel filters, air filter. Little disturbed that the firing seems to be 180 degrees out, but dealt with that before. Mechanic friend of mine has in the past not immediately concerned with timing if starts normal which it does.

    With all done and a tightened the slack of the throttle cable, idles a little fast, feels like it is missing driving at 30 mph and still dies when making a turn both left and right.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi, I have a 1993 del sol S coupe. It has 97,900 miles on it and for the past 2 years has been sitting untouched due to my insurance wanting to charge me $230 mo. liability only! Anyways i am trying to get it road ready and have already gotten a new distributor, clutch and cv boots for a whopping $1,400(towing + diagnostic). The mechanic advised me when i picked it up the timing belt, water pump, and belts need to be replaced as well as a 90k tune up. Have taken it somewhere new b/c when i tried to start it again to go get the tune up and belts the brand new battery bought 1 month ago was dead (possible alternator??. Would really not like to spend $1400 again as i have a feeling i totally was overcharged for previous work done at other shop. I am 21 year old girl and no some about cars but not enough to look at a invoice and tell if i was charged for non existing parts, extra labor, ect. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to look out for when the bill arrives? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Gullible Girl in AZ

    Man, I wish I were in the auto repair business!!! What is done is done.
    Your battery is probably just dead from sitting there. Batteries from the store are not fully charged and will drain eventually. Although 1 month is a short time, you may have some electrical drain, like a radio on, or something like that.

    The timing belt and water pump at 90K is recommended maintenance. This is unrelated to your drained battery. If you say you "no" about cars, you should know that. Your Honda dealer will charge $600-$700 for the job. An independant mechanic should be able to do this for $350. I would probably say not to go to the guy who charged you $1400 for distributtor, clutch and CV boots. Clutch is a $300 job at the dealer, CV boots, not CV joints are $50 tops, brand new distributor from Honda is under $300. I doubt the place you went to was a Honda dealer, and I doubt they used brand new OEM Honda parts. You do the math.

    As far as your insurance goes, this is exactly why Honda stopped selling CRX/Del Sol in the US, the insurance companies killed it. Plus, I don' t know your driving record, you could have had accidents and tickets for all I know.
  • hondaalhondaal Member Posts: 4
    Well... Relays checked out fine. I did find out that Both fans should not be comming on to cool the motor. Both should only come on when the a/c is on. So Now what? A/C diode? ECM? Any idea's?
    Oh... What's the red light in the ECM for? It's not on but blinks on/off once when I start the car.
  • asg2307asg2307 Member Posts: 8
    As far as the engine running properly, no. I did the tune-up because the engine stalls at idle. According to the old owner, car sat for a year. Put highest grade gas, added gas treatment. Replaced: air filter, oil change, plugs, distibutor cap, rotor, gas filters, Spark plug wires, gas line from fire wall to carb. I am replacing some of the vacuum lines, but I can not be specific, sorry.Adjusted throttle cable.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    If the vehicle sat for one year without running, you could have a fuel problem. (There might be a whole load of water in the tank.) Is the fuel line free from the Carb. to the tank? If the fuel line is clean, and the fuel pump is pumping the correct pressure and volume, you might want to consider removing the carb, and having it cleaned and rebuilt by a fuel specialist.(The low speed and idle circuits in the carb could be clogged). You might also consider dropping the fuel tank, and having it cleaned, and the fuel line flushed. It is hard to "trouble-shoot" this problem by computer! Please keep us informed about this issue!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i can only say anecdotally that while my accord had an issue with the fan relay, it would also sometimes work properly (thus check-out fine). so - it's still possible that periodically, the relay is sticking as it happened on my vehicle. perhaps you're getting the "warning sign" now. ;)

    i have no expertise in the area of automotive electronics, specially w.r.t. ECM operation so i can't add much.

    perhaps your dealer or an independant honda service shop might be consulted. they've probably seen your issue before and can help.

    good luck.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Well... Relays checked out fine. I did find out that Both fans should not be comming on to cool the motor. Both should only come on when the a/c is on. So Now what? A/C diode? ECM? Any idea's?
    Oh... What's the red light in the ECM for? It's not on but blinks on/off once when I start the car.


    It is difficult to diagnose over the internet. There could be something that only becomes apparent when one is looking at the car.

    You have to start the systematic elimination of components. Try disconnecting the temp sensor, and see if the fans stop. Try disconnecting the relay and see if fans stop. Try disconnecting one fan, see if the other stops. Try disconnecting the a/c clutch, turning the interior fan on and off. Try disconnecting the battery and let the computer earse any stored info and see if that works. There are so many things that you can do to get to the cause.

    Have no clue what the red light in the ECM is for.
  • asg2307asg2307 Member Posts: 8
    1985 Civic Wagon, 1.5 engine. For the life of me I can not located the PCV. I would appreciate the help.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    1985 Civic Wagon, 1.5 engine. For the life of me I can not located the PCV. I would appreciate the help.

    Should be somewhere on the valve cover. Trace a tube going to the intake from the valve cover, the PCV should be either in the cover or somewhere along the tube. If you still can't find it, spend $20 for a Hayes manual.
  • sportsmomof3sportsmomof3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Hubby has a 1999 Honda Civic 84,000 miles. He's great with the regular upkeep & maintenance & we really have had no major problems until now. She starts right up but dies a block later. Starts right up again but, dies a few blocks later. This goes on for about 15 - 20 minutes of trying to drive. No warning that it's going to cut out, just does. Radio still stays on. My hubby spoke to a mechanic & he told him to replace the EFI Main Relay which we did. Still having the same problem. We've had this problem for a few months now & it doesn't matter what the weather is or how many times we've used the car that day. Happens almost on a daily basis.
    Any clues to what is going on?????????
    Thanks for your help
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Fuel filter maybe?
  • eddief1eddief1 Member Posts: 13
    I went to a carburator shop he removed the aircleaner cover and started to put gas into the carb to excelarate the motor. he did this for about 5seconds and said the carb needed to be rebuilt for $250 . the car can idle decent at times now. if the carb needed to be rebuilt it should run bad all the time. what can i do to check for possible leaks.
  • sol1sol1 Member Posts: 1
    we just bought a 1993 honda del sol, when it idles it sounds like someone is revving up the engine all the time, kind of like a surging noise. has anyone had this trouble before and if so, any suggestions on how to correct it?? thanks.
  • redhornetredhornet Member Posts: 1
    I own a 93 Honda Civic with 144K and have just had to replace my head gasket again! This is the second time I've replaced it in less than 3 years and the third time it's been replaced in less than 5 years (the previous owner replaced it a few months before I bought it). Has anyone else had this many problems with the head gasket or know why it could be having problems so often? :confuse:

    After just paying $2000 (this time) for these repairs, I was really hoping my :lemon: would run properly. Unfortunately, since I got it back from the mechanic, it seems to hesitate and jerk a bit when I'm accelerating especially when it's pulling a little harder such as on an incline. I have to gear down a lot more now than before because it just doesn't seem to have the power. Is this something to do with the fuel line, injectors or filter? I tried some methyl hydrate but haven't driven it yet since. Does this sound like a serious/ expensive problem? My muffler is also going, I don't know if this would effect it or not. I'd appreciate any advice since the mechanic I brought it to is four hours away where I broke down the last time.
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    It sounds like to me like the mechanic may not have torqued down the head gasket and parts properly causing a compression problem which would yield lower output from the engine. Is the car still overheating or is it normal? I would maybe start there with compression. It could be the other things but since this just started after the head gasket replacement, then I would think it would be a problem with that. However if it isn't this is a common sympton for a needed tune up. Look into that also. Good luck and sorry to hear about your run of bad luck :(
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I would start looking into causes for the head gasket replacement.
    1. Mechanic lied to you and it did not need head gasket replacement.
    2. There is an underlying cause that has never been fixed

    I had an 85 Civic with 250,000 miles with the original head gasket. I have an 88 Prelude with 130,000 miles and original head gasket.

    Are all replacement gaskets from Honda or high quality manufacturer like "Mr Gasket?" or are they cheap knock offs? Is your car regularly overheating? Did the shop deck the block and the head before putting the new gasket on? It could be that the block or the head are warped and this is only a matter of time before you will need new headgasket. This could also be the reason you are having the symptoms you described.

    Seems like gasket replacements are only a temporary cure fo rthis particular engine. For the $4000 you paid for two gasket replacements, you could have bought a high power JDM engine and transmission, or just a newer engine from Honda and had it put in.
  • 440dart440dart Member Posts: 1
    Help!
    I have a 1991 CIVIC with an 8 valve 4 cylinder (1.5 or 1.8 I think). It is burning about 2 quarts of oil every 250 miles. The compression is 130 psi on all four cylinders, which I think is good, and the engine runs perfect and has plenty of power. The spark plugs for the middle 2 cylinders are black and oily, the outers are a nice light brown. Oil is literally dripping from the tail pipe.
    What could cause this? Could this much oil be coming down the valve guides?
    Any help is appreciated.
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