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PT Cruiser Air Conditioning Questions/Problems

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  • My brother is a mechanic and after spending several hours diagnosing the problem he had the same conclusion -- the low pressure indicator switch is out, but also on a major backorder (less than 100 available nation-wide and over 800 on backorder).

    He fixed it temporarily by simply bypassing the low pressure switch. The bad part about this is that the compressor runs all the time, so you must MANUALLY cycle it off when it starts freezing up so it won't burn up the compressor.

    Does anyone know where we can find this part? With the Chysler Bankruptcy issue, I'm not sure how long it will take to get back-order parts back in stock.
  • Me too -- Bought my '06 PT used with 32K miles -- now has 48K and having this issue with the AC. I've also had the shuddering issue when idling at a stop -- only warm air blows out unless you're driving.

    I had several Chrysler minivans and swore to never own another Chrysler...should have kept to my promise. THIS IS THE LAST ONE I WILL EVER OWN -- EVER!!! I'm buying a Honda or Toyota next time.
  • inlayusainlayusa Posts: 1
    I had the same A/C problem (compressor not turning “ON”) and many owners must have as well, since this original Chrysler replacement switch is in short supply. However, I got one through Auto Zone (6-23-09) in Mulberry, FL and it should be available from them since they had to order it from their warehouse (I got it the next day) and it wasn't just one they happened to have in store stock. It did not come in Chrysler packaging but is a Santech #MT1191 (A/C Switch) Low-pressure cut-off switch M12x1.5 Chrysler. It looks exactly the same and screwed into the condenser and the plugs-in is the same including the connector lock. It seems to be just like the original A/C switch and works just fine. It cost $30 bucks and change with tax. In case you can't get it through Auto Zone here is Santech address:

    Santech
    2450 Handley Ederville Rd.
    Ft. Worth, TX 76118

    Hope this helps, InlayUSA
  • Thanks!! I called Santech in Fort Worth and they told me this is compatible, if not better, than the original MOPAR part (5058736AA) which is still on backorder across the country at Chrysler Dealerships. They are beginning to get their shipments, but very slowly -- and the parts they're getting in are already spoken for.

    This Santech part (MT 1191) is available at AutoZone, XL Parts (713) 983-1100 and North Houston Starter (281) 586-7374. Good Luck to everyone!!

    :shades:
  • jimwelsh1jimwelsh1 Posts: 4
    Same problems as described by everyone else in regards to the air conditioning. I have a 2006 PT Cruiser, 45K miles. Air conditioning started acting up. Compressor cycling rapidly, ‘bucking’ at a stop light, blowing warm/hot air at stop. Going around a corner sometimes the a/c would ‘catch’ and blow cold air. Noticed sometimes when turning on a/c, I would hear a sound like a flapper valve slamming shut. Noticed what appeared to be a cloud of steam or vapor coming from under the left headlight area, also noticed moisture vapors coming in through the vents. Took it to the local Jiffy lube to have the R134 checked. They told me that the compressor was not cycling, but there was no leaks.
    Long story short, all I get now is hot air coming through the vents. I have verified that the cooling fan does kick in. I tried disconnecting/ bypassing the A/C Clutch Cycling Switch to see if that would make any difference with no luck. Is there any other switch/sensor or relay I can bypass to see if the compressor will cycle?
    Thanks,
    Jim Welsh
  • pegscakespegscakes Posts: 2
    We finally got our air conditioning fixed. After they replaced a lot of things (and it still didn't work) they discovered that the hoses to the air conditioner were getting crimped every time we turned the wheel and the freon was leaking out. They replaced all the hoses and now we haven't had any problems.
  • jimwelsh1jimwelsh1 Posts: 4
    I do not think that is the problem on my Cruiser. I did notice that there was a sending unit/sensor on the compressor itself. The only way I can see to access this sender is from undernieth unless you have very long, small hands and arms, then you can do it from the top. What would happen if I bypassed this sender, and is this the same sending unit as the santech?
    Thanks,
    Jim Welsh
  • djanmitchdjanmitch Posts: 2
    Hi.

    I have an 07 PT and this just started happening to me in the past few weeks. I am the original owner and so (supposedly) still have that lifetime warranty and have around 60,000 miles on the car. I took it to a local mechanic and he said that it was my fan not kicking on (didn't say which one) and that it should be under warranty still and that the dealership would have to fix it.

    I know very little about cars and don't want to take it to the dealership to get royally screwed over. Can ppl advise me what I need to ask/talk to them about or what actions to take?

    Thanks
  • You can now buy the fan at ORIELLY AUTO PARTS for around a hundred dollars. It is the fan moter only(that is all you need) the dealer wants to sell you the assemble. You can change it yourself in about an hour, it is a pretty simple job. You can drive the car at hiway speeds and it will be fine. If you are in town or in traffic it will start to overheat. While at hiway speed the car gets enough air flow to keep from overheating. If you have any questions i will be glad to try and answer them for you.
  • djanmitchdjanmitch Posts: 2
    Thank you so much!
    Would the fan be something that would be covered under the lifetime-power trane warranty? I am the original owner and if it's something covered under warranty I'll let them fix it?

    You're great!
    Jan
  • joliverijoliveri Posts: 1
    i wanted to thank you for this post! my air conditioner is fixed now, just in time for the first really hot week in the northeast this summer.
    a note to other 2007 pt cruiser owners who can't get the original low pressure switch from chrysler -- the santech part (MT 1191) is on back order now too but MT 0205 in conjunction with MT0135 will work too. I got this info direct from santech.
  • smccanssmccans Posts: 1
    can you tell me when you changed this part did you have to drain the a/c or are you able to just replace it?
  • voxxyvoxxy Posts: 2
    Same problem here. Base model '06 PT w/manual transmission, 52.7K miles. Just started happening maybe 10 days - 2 weeks ago (a/c blowing warm at slower speeds, one incident of smoke expelling from left side following short hiss, terrible idle w/ a/c on, etc.). Firestone quoted me $1251.00 to fix! They said high end pressure @ 500psi. Took car to AAA Auto Care. It's there right now. Awaiting word tomorrow, but would very much like to repair for MUCH less. I'm not mechanical, however, so not sure what to expect re: making a repair myself or via a mechanic friend. Already out time and $$ for multi-day car rental, etc. I will also call Chrysler and at least let them know that I am another customer with this problem. I'm sure grateful for all the info here and to know I'm not alone.
  • My 2002 Cruiser has a hole in the high pressure hose connecting the condenser and compressor. My repairman's efforts to secure a replacement part have proved fruitless; his supplier can only find four in the country and those dealers won't sell them. Does anyone have any good leads on where I can look for this hose? Thanks!
  • voxxyvoxxy Posts: 2
    Update: AAA diagnosed my problem as a bad cooling fan, which seemed to match what I had been reading here so that was a relief. They said my model ('06 base model w/manual trans) only has a single cooling fan, btw, and not the two that some other PTs have. The part was back ordered 3 weeks, however, so I decided to call an acquaintance who works for Chrysler locally to see if he could do anything. He said that local dealers are not willing to part with these fans b/c they obviously need them for their own customers but he found a few in another city and got one for me.

    Then I called Chrylser. They said they might be willing to consider a goodwill compensation for this repair if I had it done at a dealership. Well, the bottom line is I did that, and they decided to totally cover all parts and labor. This had nothing to do with the fact that I knew a Chrysler employee, either. In fact, he thought I was "screwed" b/c I was past the 36K original warranty (I'm at 52.7K). He was very surprised that they did this for me.

    Chrysler clearly realizes that this is an issue. I think everyone should call them (800-992-1997) and at least report their issue. I was only on the phone a very short time both times I called them and had good reps, too. My second call to them, after the repair was done, was to see if they would be willing to help me with my car rentals, and I'm awaiting a response today. I am still out $500 ($360 for rentals and $140 for Firestone and AAA's diagnoses), but I am pretty happy to not have it any worse.

    Thanks again to everyone who has posted here. You all gave me the inspiration and motivation to see it through to this point, and things have gone relatively well so far despite the time, stress and effort. My A/C is back blowing the cold air it is supposed to now!
  • My 2007 Cruiser is spitting out a cold oderless vapor or "smoke" similar to what you see once you open a freezer or coming from dry ice. The air blows cold but the smoke comes out only when i have been driving for 10 to 15 minutes and stops once I idle. My mechanic cannot replicate it to determine the cause. I have taken it in 3 days in a row to have them figure it out. It is very strange, as if the A/C is too cold but it comes and goes with out any other symptoms. I wonder if I should worry about it or just see if it goes away once the weather cools down. Anyone else experience this?
  • slw22slw22 Posts: 1
    I was having problems with my AC blowing warm air when at an idle. In late June I took it in and they replaced the radiatior fan module. I had to pay the $100 deductible. A few weeks later I started having more problems. A lot like what is being described above. AC works on and off and sometimes I have vapor coming out of the vent. I took it to the dealer and they can not figure out what is wrong. They want me to leave the car all day but I can not do that because I have no other means of transportation. Now my AC is not working at all. When I called the dealership they pretty much told me I have to leave my car. I asked what am I suppose to do to get to work? They basically told me nothing they could do about it. I called Chrysler and was told they could not give me a rental unless they know what the problem is. Well since they can not even figure out the problem what am I suppose to do? So basically they are telling me to bad. Last time I buy from Chrysler. No wonder they are having such bad times.
  • After chasing my tail and the web I found that removing the LOW SPEED FAN RELAY FUSE Located under the hood in the Power Center Fuse box is a simple way to Not only diagnose if the Fan is working but it Will make the AC work properly. HOWEVER, REMOVING THE LOW SPEED FAN RELAY FUSE WILL MAKE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND STAY ON IF REMOVED. The upside is the HIGH SPEED OPERATION, if properly working will STAY ON ALL THE TIME. The method is before you start the car, pop the hood and locate the Central Power Fuse Box. Check the diagram for the LOW SPEED FAN RELAY(Larger 40amp black fuse) should be on left side nearest end toward BOOSTING POST. Remove the fuse and simply crank the car. The fan should spin with or without the AC on. The engine code will be P0480, Cooling Circuit 1. No spin bad fan. Spinning fan good AC. ;)
  • Would you be able to post a pic that shows exactly what relay to pull? I don't want to wind up pulling the wrong one and cause something else to go out.
    Thanks.
  • Yes, but the diagram on the inside of the Power box cover has good details. The fuse is locate on the end with the RED Plastic Positive Boosting Post. Start at that post and look for the first 1x1 Cubic Fuse. Refer to the diagram of the Box Lid, Holding the lid/diagram properly-Readable, Words and numbers NOT upside down is a perfect match to the fuse box itself. Hint: Slightly wiggle the fuse as you pull it out, makes remove somewhat easier. ALSO, the engine Light Will come on, DTC code P0480 Cooling Circuit 1 will remain open allowing the High Speed to run all the time. The Fuse Must Be Put Back into the slot to remove code. If you remove the fuse, it is only a bypass/crossover, I Keep the Fuse in the Glove Box until I fix what I hope is only a new switch on the Climate Control Panel. That seems to be the cause, I took off the AC knob and could simply see a Big Crack running from the Knob Spendle. Check you Knobs, the short may be there. ;)
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