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Ford Windstar Starting/Stalling Problems

24

Comments

  • Did you find the problem causing the stalling? My wife's 2003 is doing the same thing, I replaced the tensioner but it still does it, it seem to be worse when cold.

    Steve
  • Any luck figuring out the problem. My wife's van has the same symptoms and issues!
  • Well, her dad took it in to his brother's shop and ended up changing both the alternator and the water pump. There wasn't any stalling after that. A few chirps from the belt when cold; and when I say chirps, I mean loud squirrels. I'm willing to bet it was the alternator causing the near-stalls.
  • smacmo1smacmo1 Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    About a year before the warranty ran out the vehicle began the stall feature I see , mentioned here. Thedealer had the vehucle about once every three moniths for about a week with no answers as to what was going on. Finally in Oct 007, I got fed up after walking five miles to find a phone, had the van towed in and told the service writer to replace the fuel pump, filter and sensors. Well, it worked just fine after that until about nine months ago and the stall returned ( May 009. Now, there is no particular interval between failures, could be a day, week month or more. Afer running about 20 minutes, the va will subtilly jerk, vibrate as if the timing was off then stall whenever you bring the van to a halt, no matter where. The engine will crank, start run about 5 seconds then stop. This will happen for at least 3-4 hours then go away. We had it towed to the dealership Friday, they pushed it into the garage found nothing amiss. Suggestions?
  • nicky99nicky99 Posts: 1
    it started around october 2009. my van was doing a jerking motion then started stalling while driving. the first auto shop changed the air control switch and mass airflow sensor. my van did good for 2 weeks then it started again. so the second diagnostic test from a different auto place said upper and lower air intake gaskets, but i had to get an upgraded kit from a Ford dealer. It worked for about one week. The 3rd auto shop found nothing, but some codes dealing with the mass airflow, so they reset the codes. That lasted a few days. The 4th diagnostic test, they said it was the computer, but now my van will not start at all. i had the starter and alternator tested. the test came back good. i had my battery cells tested, they came back good. i have paid out $2,000.00 and the van still wont start. i just paid 578.00 for the computer chip from the dealer, who now says they need to put in a new starter before they program the chip. the starter and labor fees will be $511.00. Is there anyone with the same problem?
  • I have a 2003 Ford Windstar, same problem,Ford is covering up the problem. It's in the PCM Module',or computer brain, CCRM (constant control relay module).It has a Texas Instrament Chip thats bad. I see it from 1995 til 2003 . The bast+_+ know about it but never did a recall. Chip controls everything from trany. Acts up sporadicly like my spelling does.Dealer's know too, but it's a good money maker amd cheap fix , but not by them.
  • erics5erics5 Posts: 1
    brother in law same problem.......cam senser squealing and made it stall....
  • The cause of your 2 symptoms are related. The culprit is called a crank angle sensor. www.advanceautoparts.com part number 30-S2601. Sells for $46. This sensor sits just behind the water pump. Look for a round black plastic cover with 2 very small bolts. It also has 1 bolt and washer that hold it in place. It has 2 wires connected to it. It is located just behind the water pump assembly and in front of and below the power steering pump assembly. This is not just a sensor that is mounted to the engine, No no no. It is an assembly with a long shaft and a gear that is about 12 inches long. The problem is that near the top of this sensor there is a bushing that goes bad. When it does, the first symptom that you will notice is a squeal sound coming out of the belt area. A fan belt squeal. The next symptom that happens is the motor will stall. You can restart the motor but it usually takes a few seconds to get it going. Then you hear that awful squeal sound again, and then it stalls again. Frustrating. Just order a replacement sensor and install. As I recall, it should take an hour or so to install. The problem is there is almost no room to work. You have to loosen the power steering pump assembly (4 bolts and 1 of them is just under a copper tube....so remove the 3 easy ones and then as you are loosening the 4th, just lift up on the pump assembly as you go...it will comes up just fine). You don't have to remove any of the hoses or lines, just loosen the power steering pump assembly to give you clearance to lift out the sensor. Then sensor has just 1 bolt to unscrew and 1 electrical connector to remove and it lifts up and out of the engine. It comes up on an angle towards the power steering pump. If you need more room, pull the 2 windshield wipers arms off, remove the black plastic cowl, and the plastic cowl under that. couple of bolts and those plastic screws and those windshield washer hoses, and an electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor. This also gives enough room to put new spark plugs in. The front 3 pugs are pretty easy, the back 3 are a little tougher. I laid a quilt blanket across the engine area and laid on top of the engine area to reach those back 3. Anyway, hope this info helps somebody. Oh yeah,FYI, the purpose of the crank angle sensor is to send a signal to the vans computer to adjust the timing. When the bushing goes bad, the sensor gives a false reading, throwing the timing way out of whack which stalls the motor. Good luck.
  • The cause of your 2 symptoms are related. The culprit is called a crank angle sensor. www.advanceautoparts.com part number 30-S2601. Sells for $46. This sensor sits just behind the water pump. Look for a round black plastic cover with 2 very small bolts. It also has 1 bolt and washer that hold it in place. It has 2 wires connected to it. It is located just behind the water pump assembly and in front of and below the power steering pump assembly. This is not just a sensor that is mounted to the engine, No no no. It is an assembly with a long shaft and a gear that is about 12 inches long. The problem is that near the top of this sensor there is a bushing that goes bad. When it does, the first symptom that you will notice is a squeal sound coming out of the belt area. A fan belt squeal. The next symptom that happens is the motor will stall. You can restart the motor but it usually takes a few seconds to get it going. Then you hear that awful squeal sound again, and then it stalls again. Frustrating. Just order a replacement sensor and install. As I recall, it should take an hour or so to install. The problem is there is almost no room to work. You have to loosen the power steering pump assembly (4 bolts and 1 of them is just under a copper tube....so remove the 3 easy ones and then as you are loosening the 4th, just lift up on the pump assembly as you go...it will comes up just fine). You don't have to remove any of the hoses or lines, just loosen the power steering pump assembly to give you clearance to lift out the sensor. Then sensor has just 1 bolt to unscrew and 1 electrical connector to remove and it lifts up and out of the engine. It comes up on an angle towards the power steering pump. If you need more room, pull the 2 windshield wipers arms off, remove the black plastic cowl, and the plastic cowl under that. couple of bolts and those plastic screws and those windshield washer hoses, and an electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor. This also gives enough room to put new spark plugs in. The front 3 pugs are pretty easy, the back 3 are a little tougher. I laid a quilt blanket across the engine area and laid on top of the engine area to reach those back 3. Anyway, hope this info helps somebody. Oh yeah,FYI, the purpose of the crank angle sensor is to send a signal to the vans computer to adjust the timing. When the bushing goes bad, the sensor gives a false reading, throwing the timing way out of whack which stalls the motor. Good luck.
  • i had the same problem. after changing the fuel pump 2 times. the coil twice. change the mas air flow sensor... finally found the problem... its the fuel safety switch. its located by the driver door down by the brake release.. try that!!!!
  • try the fuel safety switch.
  • having the exact same problem.
    does the fuel safety switch have some wires going into it and about a 1/2 hose connected to it as well. how much does it cost and can i only get it from ford?
  • wasdkhwasdkh Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 windstar. Problem only occures with the outside temp. drops into the 50's. The car will start perfectly first thing in the morning. It will run about 3-5 minutes and then it will die. It doesn't matter if you are driving down the road or sitting in the driveway. Once it dies you have to turn the key all the way to the off positition and wait a few minutes before it will turn over. If you don't wait and just try to start it up right away it will crank but will not turn over (like it is not getting fuel). Usually once it get up to operating temp it will run great once you get it moving. On warm days and mornings don't have this problem. Only codes we have are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. Can not figure out what the temperature has to do with it and why it acts like its out of gas.
  • hinehine Posts: 1
    We are having same problem-have you found the cause and a solution yet?
  • Sounds like the :"Mass Air Flow Sensor" !!!
  • I have a 98 Windstar and I was driving home on the freeway and my Check Engine light started flashing. I drove about two more miles with it running fine and then I exited off the freeway. I came to a stop and it began to run rough. I continued home about a mile up a hill and by the time I got into my driveway it was barely running. I shut it off and tried to restart it and it would not start. It was late so I left it alone and drove my wifes car the following day. I had her go out and try to start it when I was at work and she said that it let out a gasp and then nothing. I got home and tried to start it and was able to get it to fire but as it did it sounded like very hard Detonation. I have had the intake off in the past to clean the EGR ports but this one has me baffled. I have not scanned it yet.
  • Hi,
    I need help. My van was running fine for a 13 year old car up to a week or so ago and then one morning I went out and it wouldn't start. It will turn over but it won't fire. The battery is fairly new. I had the alternator and the starter tested and they passed. I disconnected the fuel line and tested the fuel pump. It works. The fuel line is not blocked. I replaced the fuel filter. The fuel is getting to the injectors. I stuck a screw driver in the end of the spark plug cable and placed it close to the manifold, tried to start the car and there was a spark. I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake and tried to start it with no change. Take the spark plugs out and they are wet with gas. I changed the spark plugs, but it still wouldn't start. Oh the fuel pump and ignition fuses in the under the hood fuse panel are not burnt out.

    Can anybody tell me what could make the van work one day and not the next day that I have not tested or replaced, yet? There were no indications of a problem that would have given me a heads up before this happened - no stalling or anything.

    Is there a relay that I haven't considered or checked? Could the ignition coil cause this even though I'm getting spark to the spark plugs? Could it be the computer? If so where is the computer?

    Thanks,
    Carey
  • Hey. I'm not a mechanic....I just have a 03 Ford Windstar. Couple of thoughts for you. The gas reaching your injectors has to under pressure. There's a real easy way to check: Turn the key to ON one click below starting the van (this energizes the fuel pump (which is located inside the gas tank)). Now, with the key still ON, go inside the engine compartment and find the fuel lines just before the injectors. You are looking for a small plastic cap that you can unscrew. It is attached directly onto the fuel line and looks something like the little plastic cap that you unscrew to check the air pressure in tires. Find it, then unscrew the cap. Nothing will happen at this point...the cap is just a dust cover. You will now see what looks like the thing that you put air into on a tire. And guess what....you simply poke a screwdriver tip into the tip of it and you should see gas spew out under pressure which means it should look like paint being sprayed out of a spray can. If it does spew out, your gas supply is good. If it doesn't, could be a fuel pump not pumping....could also be the fuel cut-off switch ( this is the thing that shuts off the fuel supply if your van got hit in an accident. It could be bad or just tripped. ) I assume you have a Chilton manual...look it up and find where its located and test it.
    Fuel pump is little tricky to test because its in the gas tank. Usually, when you turn the key to ON, you can hear the fuel pump turn ON for a few seconds. You have to hang your head outside the van and listen in the direction of the gas tank. You are listening for a noise that only should last for a few seconds. Sounds like an electric motor turning on. Normally if you can hear it, you will have fuel pressure. If you can't hear it, you need a new fuel pump. Which means you have to drop your gas tank to replace it. I did an oldsombile alero in the driveway and it took about 3 hours star to finish.
    An engine only needs 3 things to run....oxygen, gas, and spark. You've got spark. You got air. You may not have the gas pressure that you need. Sure hope this helps.
  • First of all, I'm not a mechanic either, but sometimes I just go with common sense along with a basic knowledge. Sounds like you're on the right diagnostic track. Sounds also as if you're like me, trying to solve the problem in the cheapest route possible, if not free. You're getting fuel. You say you're getting spark with the screwdriver test. I like that test also, although I prefer to keep the sparkplug on the end so I can visually test both the sparkplug and the wires at the same time, as well as me thinking it's safer. My question is if you checked spark on all cylinders, not just one. If you did and you are getting spark, then the only logical thing to go on next is, with fuel and spark being present, the spark must be at the wrong times.
  • Thanks. Could it still be a fuel issue when I mentioned that I tried starter fluid in the air intake and it wouldn't start?
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