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Hyundai Santa Fe 2007+

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  • I have the 3.3L, and changing the oil is easy. The drain plug is easy to get to and the filter cap is up top right under the plastic top engine cover. The oil filter is not a metal housing like most, but a cylindrical paper element with plastic end caps (Fram CH9999, at Walmart for $5-6) Not sure if the 2.7L engine uses this type or not.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    I have no idea which color is more popular with members here. Color is such a personal choice, it's not realistic to choose one over another based on the opinions of people you don't even know. Still, I've given you mine - I suggest Steel Gray for all of the reasons I posted above. If you still can't decide, you may want to ask the opinion of the person in your life whose opinion you value most and then just go with it.
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    Thanks; yes, I realize I'm being ridiculous about the color choice! I'll figure it out :)
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    When I test drove the SE over the weekend, we noticed a burning smell once we were done. We asked the rep about it and he said that Hyundai sprays some kind of protective coating on the car for shipping and sometimes it gets on the exhaust and burns off. Does this sound correct?

    Also, a friend had mentioned they got some factory upholstery protectant sprayed on, where the car company (not Hyundai) agrees to get any stains out, and if they can't, they will re-upholster. This kind of thing has always sounded like a 'gotcha' to me - any opinions?

    Thanks again - sorry for my many, many random posts these past couple of weeks!
  • I also have the 3.3 but I think the 2.7 is a different setup.

    The 3.3 (as you mentioned) is the Old fashioned (but superior imho) system that uses a disposable replaceable paper element inside a permanent canister that is screwed onto the Engine A VERY SIMPLE STRAIGHT FORWARD NOT TOO MESSY JOB! Yeah, so it is not a screw off, screw on all in one solution! TOP MOUNTING FILTERS HAVE PROS AND CONS BUT IT IS SURE EASIER AS WE GET OLDER! I THINK TOYOTA USES TOP FILTER PLACEMENT TOO THESE DAYS. (NOT THAT I AM IN LOVE WITH THEIR QUALITY OF LATE)

    You remove the paper element from the canister (dispose of properly), replace it into the canister with NEW filter element O rings and replace THE now cleaned out re-assembled filter + canister onto the block.

    The "newer style" that we have become accustomed to... already has the paper element pre assembled inside the disposable metal (albiet preciously thin ....) canister (like that fram orange thing)... I have actually cut some styles from other autos apart out of curiosity. The jiffy Lube type specials are even lower quality! There are lots of short cuts these manufacturer's will go thru to save a few pennies on your expensive engine's life's blood...oil!

    I like the new 3.3L's canister setup much better (My mini cooper had the filter/canister approach too!) there is no hiding poor materials either this way!.

    The Fram type"all in one spin ons" are for the most part, Poor quality. (lower # of pleats, poor grade Filter material, cardboard end caps and ** poor quality by- pass valves, smaller and fewer drain holes!
    (yes i am an Old wrencher!)

    RANT COMING!

    Second choice after good oem on the newer style for me would be the WIX GOLD sold by NAPA (metal end caps, thicker materials and better quality by pass valves!)!!! Forget about the high priced stuff like Bosch, amsoil, K&N, filters etc...More crap! They just lease the NAME for brand recognition! Most are still champion, fram, puralator etc in sheeps clothing and nice consumer paint jobs

    Fram used to be good stuff but is now Honeywell garbage. It is the filter one thinks of most when changing oil...the newer oil formulas are far superior to the old stuff....AND SYNTHETICS ARE NOT WHAT YOU THINK THEY ARE (DINO BASED FOR THE MOST PART!)Amsoil is a better full syn. There are even 2 FULL syn Casteroils...One made here ...Junk, and one from Germany ...still good.

    For 3-5000 mi changes , Dino is fine by me (if it meets the basic specs) and for 5000-7500 mi changes so is mobile one (dino stock too) beyond 7500 miles is flirting with trouble IMHO! You are saving how much $$ Per year on a $25,000 auto????

    SURPRISE ...THE OLD STANDARD BLUE HONDA FILTER (BY FILTREC) IS NOW A BLUE HONEYWELL IN HONDA CLOTHING...GARBAGE....The oem hyundai is actually decent stuff and is my choice in this type.

    With all that said, there are differences in those paper elements AND the all in one designs. In filtering, more surface area usually means better filtering

    Just have a look at the sludged up heads on an extended oil service block...SLUDGE. What do they care once the warranty is over. Don't forget even though Hyundai makes substantial $$ on its recommended oil service...their warranty cost in the long run too so why mess with a long interval.

    FWIW, after years of DIY oil changes, I am again having the dealer do them for me. iFor the $30 per chg, I get a good quality element and the no sqiggle" room for the dealer, for that long warranty and the possibility of stripped oil plugs and pans etc. I do not love the Bulk grade Pennzoil stuff but today's oil in any form is way different that the old dino formulas of yesteryear. Personally I do not go for that extended oil chg baloney...cheap insurance.
  • I think I warned you...that smell will go away and is usually a prtectant on the engine....It is a real stinker too...NOW BUY THE THING...IT IS GETTING OLD WAITING FOR YOU! :P

    ps FORGET THE FANCY DEALER ADD ONS LIKE PROTECTANT...THEY REALLY GET YA THERE...A COUPLE OF CANS OF 3M SCOTHCHGUARD IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO NUTS...JUST BUY THE DEALER BASICS They stick it too ya and the extras add up VERY Fast! IMHO...
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    I agree completely with gizzer777. He's 100% correct. Get 'er done!
  • A link to a good PDF w/ Pics (a 3.3 Sonata but you will get the idea...Sorry for the OT nature but this is a Keeper IMHO! Especially if This style is new to you
    http://jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/diy_oil_change.pdf
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    I'm going, I'm going! I'm down to the Platinum Sage or Silver now. I thought I saw a Sage in the parking lot today (at work), but maybe it was Khaki.
    Anyone have any real photos of the Sage?
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Keep in mind that the Platinum Sage one could very well have the beige interior. If so, you'll need to decide whether or not you like it. In addition, Platinum Sage has a far greater likelihood of looking "dated" in a few years than does Steel Gray or silver.
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    Yes, that's why I initially dismissed the sage, but then I thought it didn't look too green (but I think I only saw it in the shade). Anyway, I think I've decided on the Silver and the price is as follows:

    23014
    - 64 mudguards
    22950
    125 doc fee
    23075
    1384.50 tax
    15 title
    8 plate transfer
    24482.50 total
    2000 ($1500 rebate plus $500 HMFC Bonus for financing)
    22482.50 total due

    I guess here in Michigan, you have to pay tax on the total before the rebate. Still, I think this is a good deal (I was never looking for the lowest, lowest price because there's only so much time I can devote to this, I just wanted a fair price from a nice dealership and that seems like it is). I'm exhausted!
  • mcq1mcq1 Posts: 103
    Hey what about the natural kaki..i think is a beautiful car if you get it with the black interior.
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    I haven't seen that color, but I've heard it's pretty green. Too late, I've committed to the silver now, and I'm happy with that. I'll pick it up on Wednesday.
    Yey, phew, and I'm pooped!
  • CONGRATULATIONS.... You will enjoy it...Do keep us updated on how you like it...no question you will
  • lv2drvlv2drv Posts: 132
    You will love your SF. I didn't get the Platinum Sage because it looked too green to me as well. I was surprised by how much I like the golden beige. It isn't a "plain" color like I thought it would be. The metallic helps. I have the beige interior and yes I have to clean a bit more often, but it's worth it when it's really hot.
  • There are several problems with these instructions. First, you need to loosen the filter and let it drain for several minutes before you drain the crankcase. Otherwise the oil in the filter canister will stay there and get mixed with the new. You'll notice this when you wind up with an overfilled crankcase if you add the full 5 1/2 quarts the specs call for. Second, it is absolutely essential, according to the Hyundai service manual (hmaservice.com), to replace the two O rings with the new ones that come with the filter (at least with the OEM filter). Hyundai also recommends that you replace the old drain plug washer with a new so-called crush washer. I've changed the oil on a lot of other cars and always re-used the old washer, with no problems, but Hyundai says use a new one.
  • I agree, but it is a good BASIC start. Learned about draining the filter into the crankcase in the Mini Cooper (usually as soon as you "break" the canister pressure seal, the oil drains from the canister in a hurry! (if you don't wait...it's Exonn Valdez time in your garage!...helps keep the mess out and works well.

    I have always changed out the crush washer (Honda V-Tech also still uses them as well as others I presume) as recommended (they are also old fashioned but are meant to crush for a seal..I have on occasion seen reused ones fatigue. then crack and leak and for the few pennies, why take a chance.), and o rings though (heck they come with the oem filter, why not!)..

    Also, BTW: do notice the author's cute little disclaimer.../he is not a tech writer for HMA

    and also, Thanks for your input ON THIS TOPIC AS WELL!!!!...Makes these forums valuable for all! input...As I said. It gives folks that have never seen this filter arrangement the general idea and they are NOT official by any means! I give a lot of credit to the guy who took the time and effort to write them up!

    There are a lot of things that I have learned to do differently thru the years if only to protect those valuable warranties! (major motivation for me due the the outrageous repair charges gotten by manufacturers these days once the warranty is over) Watched Mini/BMW pull that stuff that to folks too! ALWAYS WONDERED HOW MUCH WE ARE PAYING (IN THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE AUTO) FOR THAT HUGE WARRANTY...HMA IS SMART TO ONLY LIMIT THE POWERTRAIN PORTION TO THE ORIG OWNER...) I do know a MINI CVT replacement can cost about $7500...and you can't rebuild the "sealed unit" sort of like an expensive ipod! :shades:
    As far as oil level goes...I still would do it the old fashioned way (now I let the service guys play with it)...get close and add, get closer and add a little more until the level is correct. Just My way...to old to chg now! It is always easier to add oil than drain an overfill
    Of course some old oil is still left in the lines even if you drain it overnight...I would still prefer to drain/fill with warm oil)

    Still will let my dealer do it for the price though! I will relax over coffee in the service waiting room thank you :) When warranties were (and still are with others) 3 yrs...I would do it my way when it was over...but with 10yr/100,000 power train warranty at stake.....NO MAS! Like who ever (in the old days) used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug...It was wrenchuntil it begans to tighten, and add 1/4 turn or so until REASONABLE AND NO LEAKS WERE FOUND! (and the old fashioned crush washer was crushed (couldn't resist...sorry!)

    On the other hand, the Mini EXTENDED oil service at 10k and then 15K is a joke...I never let it go past 7500mi period (would you drive 250 RT miles for a free oil chg...NOT ME!I actually stripped out the pan on an Honda Vtech tightening one to their published torque spec! (the wrench was a properly calibrated Craftsman too...should have been a little give room...and I knew better too!It just "felt wrong"
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    You made a good choice and I know you're going to enjoy your Santa Fe. Let us know once you pick 'er up.
  • All in fun ZEB...

    SUGGEST. YOU BRING A DESIGNATED DRIVER, A VALIUM, AND DARK SUNGLASSES! There is no feeling I can remember when it comes to picking up your new auto (AFTER YOU ARE FINISHED SIGNING AND INITIALIALING ALL THAT STUFF!

    I guess i am dated though...did not want to stir the pot, but my SF SE is Platinum Sage
    and I do not even like green! I just did not want white or black and wanted the darker interior! (the Nevada desert is ONE DIRTY PLACE!)I think Hyundai did a great job in picking out its 07 color lineup...something for all. I just wish the cloth came in a darker shade for the interiors...Leather is not a good idea in our climate...I also wanted the heated seats which i had to give up on at the time or get a limited which i did not need the way the dealer's were packaged...oh well...next time i guess!

    I give you a lot of credit for stickin it out and would have done anything to watch your salesperson squirming as you went round and round (the sadist in me!)

    Let us know after you pick it up...no doubt you will love it!
  • mcq1mcq1 Posts: 103
    Congrats...I am holding out for the 2008. I like the natural kakki and the silver.
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    So as I get ready to head to the dealership tomorrow, I am reminded that I still have more (!) questions.

    I'm going to use the financing but pay it off after one month - someone mentioned about gap insurance, etc, etc...am I going to be presented with a bunch more 'do you want this?' during the process that I don't know about yet? Can I turn everything down since I'm going to pay it off in a month?

    What's this I'm reading about an extended warranty? Is this just the stuff like windshield/tires, or something more?

    Thanks!
  • Now this really depends on the type of insurance you now carry. Usually you just call your own insurance company and give them the VIN # (bring your policy# and company name (state Insurance card?) with you when you go for the pickup.

    I do know one thing, if you buy any insurance from a dealer, you will be raped for sure! Most states give you a temp registration good for a period of time....THIS IS NOT A DEALER GIFT EITHER! (and it must have a current smog in most states as well

    DO NOT LET THEM SLIP ANY MORE CHARGES IN ON YOU!!!! PERIOD! IT IS A LITTLE LATE TO BE CONSIDERING EXTENDED WARRANTYS...STRICTLY PERSONAL TASTE...I JUST SAY NO...BIG PROFIT ITEM FOR THEM.EACH TO THEIR OWN.WINDSHIELDS ARE USUALLY COVERED BY YOUR OWN COMPREHENSIVE (if at all) AND NORMAL WEAR ITEMS ARE USUALLY NOT COVERED AT ALL (BATTERY ETC...TIRES HAVE THEIR OWN CRUMMY PRO RATA WARRANTY FROM THE MAKER)

    remember the included roadside assistance program...the phone number is on a decal on the rear passenger window....

    This should be VERY easy
    1) SIGN ALL THE GARBAGE AFTER INSPECTING AND POSSIBLY FINAL DRIVING THE CAR (look for small dings/scratches/touch up marks.....CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE JACK, TOOLS (IF ANY), SPARE TIRE ETC ARE ALL THERE!!!. Don't laugh...salesmen swipe stuff off lot cars all the time to complete their own sale! Mine had a leaky (let water in) tail light. The salesman had the service guy change it with a good one from a lot car on the spot so I completed the deal then!!

    ANYTHING MISSING OR JUST NOT RIGHT...MAKE THEM SIGN IT ON A due bill!) no verbals....

    If your auto locks are not set and you want them set...make them put it on a due bill to be done at first oil chg...OR CALL THEM NOW TO HAVE THEM SET THEM...IF YOU WISH.
    2) GIVE THEM YOUR $$
    3) DRIVE THAT PUPPY HOME!

    GOOD LUCK TOMORROW.

    One last thing...make sure they check/top off ALL fluid levels...FREE full tank of gas, and that the tires are 30lbs COLD!!! (They usually have them overinflated at the lot!
  • Thanks for reminding us new Santa Fe owners. Actually I placed my order this morning of a 07 Santa Fe GLS AWD, which is the highest level of Santa Fe in Canada. I will pick up the puppy tomorrow afternoon. I'm eager to sit in her leather seat and enjoy sunshine from the moon roof.

    Still many friends doubt my decision to go for a Korean car but this is a decision after more than one year of research, comparison, and test drives. I hope my Santa Fe won't let me down. :) :)
  • slk70slk70 Posts: 12
    Gap insurance is provided to cover possible losses due to the immediate depreciation on the car after sale. If an accident occured shortly after purchase, your insurance wouldn't cover the purchase price of the car, only the depreciated value remaining. The dealership is concerned the buyer would default on the remaining amount in such a scenario. Some dealers will require you get gap insurance if you down put enough of a down payment on the car to cover the depreciation hit. If you put enough of a down payment on the car, gap insurance isn't required. Again it really only comes into play in the event of a total loss shortly after purchase.

    Here's some financing tips. Make sure there is no penalty for paying the loan off early. Also given you are planning to pay it off right off the bat, try to make sure your financing involves simple interest as opposed to amortorized interest (where the interest is primarly paid up front, then the principal).
  • zebzeb Posts: 57
    I hear you about the friends thing. My neighbor is disgusted that I am not buying American. Hyundai still has a certain 'shhh' aspect to it when people ask what you drive, but hopefully it will serve us well and we'll be glad we bought a great (affordable) car. My friend bought a Mercedes in 2001 for $79K (crazy), and it is now worth $20K. To me, that's not so great!
    I'm picking mine up tonight!
  • Good to know! I had no idea and will remember should I ever get myself into that position.
  • Well, in Vancouver, Canada people aren't so keen at buying American cars. (Ontario, maybe) Most of my friends drive Japanese or European brands cars. Korean cars have bad reputation among people here, but I dare to buy the new Santa Fe to see if my research ability needs to be abolished. :)

    1.5 hours to pick up my Santa Fe. I'll let you know how I love or hate it. :shades:
  • If anyone complains to Santa Fe owners that they did not buy American, remind them it was designed and built in the USA, and contains 35% American parts!
  • Funny...Buy an American brand and it is probably assembled in Mexico, Canada, or who knows where...buy a Honda, Toyota and it is probably made in the USA with mostly Japanese parts,.. buy a Sante fe or Sonata and it is probably made in Alabama...NUTS!

    RELIABILITY...WHERE IS THAT MADE???
  • I am looking into purchasing 2007 Santa FE Limited AWD 3.3 V6 or SE AWD 3.3 V6 Can anyone suggest a reputable Hyundai dealer in New York state (Buffalo, Rochester area) whose services you used before importing your vehicle into Canada. What's the process, total cost and time frame. How many visits does the whole process require?
    Your advice is highly appreciated.:blush:
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