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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump

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  • 29792979 Posts: 3
    where did you connect the wire to- the pump or the pig tail and what color wire did you connect to?
  • I had the same problem with my 98 Taurus as most. Drive it for around 30 minutes, shut it off and it will not restart. If it cools down for about another 30m it will start again. The problem happens only in warm to hot weather. Traced the problem (or so I thought) to the main computer module. It was not sending out an "on" command to the fuel pump relay. Bought an identical refurb module and had it 'flashed" by a local Ford dealer. Problem solved for about 9 months, through the heat of last summer. The problem has resurfaced again with a rise in temps. Does anyone have an update on this nasty problem? Should I replace the fuel pump? Is there any related Ford Bulletin or recall on this?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I worked for a large Ford dealer in Indy till the fall of 2000.as a line mechanic. We had a service bulliten (not recall) on Taurus fuel pumps, and I replaced a slew of them. Run your tank low on fuel and you won't have to drain it. soak mounting bolts with rust buster a few times while your running your fuel low.Check wiring on top of tank and make SURE it's not flatten out or pinched, if it is, repair wiring and route in groove in top of tank. 2 things after you repl pump,keep tank above 1/2 tank to keep pump cool. Replace Ford or Motorcraft pump only
    I still have an in for Ford or Motorcraft parts and can save u some $
    My e-mail address
    cliff0rd20@comcast.net
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I worked for a large Ford dealer in Indy till the fall of 2000.as a line mechanic. We had a service bulliten (not recall) on Taurus fuel pumps, and I replaced a slew of them. Run your tank low on fuel and you won't have to drain it. soak mounting bolts with rust buster a few times while your running your fuel low.Check wiring on top of tank and make SURE it's not flatten out or pinched, if it is, repair wiring and route in groove in top of tank. 2 things after you repl pump,keep tank above 1/2 tank to keep pump cool. Replace Ford or Motorcraft pump only
    I still have an in for Ford or Motorcraft parts and can save u some $
    My e-mail address
    cliff0rd20@comcast.net
  • kim771kim771 Posts: 2
    Hi! I have a Ford Taurus SES 2002 88,000mi. For the past several months I have had a strange problem but now sometimes the car does not start at all. I drive to work and the car is fine - starts up no problem. I go home for lunch and after about 1/2 hour I start the car again and it idles VERY roughly and has stalled a few times. When I leave work at night, car is absolutely fine. Had a mechanic look at it a while ago and he could not find out why the stall thing is happening when the engine is hot. Just a few days ago, went to start the car and it wouldn't start....tried again a few minutes later and it started. After running, car is fine (shifting a little roughly, though). So a few times since the initial non-starting, the car doesn't seem to want to start when car is hot...I do not think it is the starter or the battery...both were replace November of 2006....but of course it could be! When the car doesn't start, it cranks, but a VERY slow/weak crand and then it will start. Does anyone think this could be a bad/weak fuel pump? Could a starter go bad after just 2 years? Thank you so much for any thoughts/suggestions!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    At fisrt I going to say fuel pump till you got to the cranking slow problem. First have your battery charged then do a load test on the battery with a carbon pile load tester. Find the cap of the battery, load in 1/2 that rating and the volt meter mush show 9.6 volts for 15 sec. If it passes, then go to the starter, with good battery,crank the eng over when hot and rear the batt voltage while cranking voltage should stay above 9.6 volts. A good starter should not draw over 150-175 amps max. After you get that fixed lets see how it runs. and a cheap rebuilt starter may go bad in 2 years.
    Cliff
  • Hey there!
    I'm working on a friends 99 taurus 4 dr.. Towed it 3 hours to my house from his daughters place who had it before it died. My testing shows inertia switch ok( not popped) relays in the black box ok....swapped them around, however, I'm not hearing the fuel relay pull in. "0" pressure at test valve on fuel rail when in "on" or "start" Listened with a stethascope against a long drill bit shoved down the fill pipe to see if I could hear anything...nothing. So what prevents the fuel relay from turing on?? By jumping 30-87 on the relay base turns on the fans but not the fuel pump.I'm going to check grounds and maybe run a separate ground for it and secure it to the floor as recomended previously. I'm not convinced that the problem is the pump. Not till I see good voltage at the pump with a good solid ground. Do you know what colors should be what on the fuel pump harness? I'm thinking I may find crushed wires on the top side of the tank... any ideas??
  • haytimhaytim Posts: 1
    hi
    i own the same car for over 3 years now,sure what is happening with you is happening with me,try change the cables that connect the spark plugs but anyway it a normal thing with this car,when cold it starts slow, especially in morning but when hot it starts fine
  • My ford will start by won't stay running! I have to pump the engine to keep it running for a little while, The minute I stop pumping it shuts off. Please advise. Thanks
  • Sounds like low fuel pressure or a bad fuel pressure regulator to me
  • ditt1ditt1 Posts: 1
    I've dropped the gas tank ran a + and -- wire from the battery too the fuel pump and the pump runs. at the wiring connector that goes to the gas tank I have 12volts in the red&white wire black&violet is neutral but I don't have a good ground. where does the neutral go from the connector, or can I just run a new ground under the rear seat. would it hurt any thing. I've checked the fuel pump relay, fuse, and pcm relay all test ok!!. Can someone help
  • So I'm new here - Of course after working on this Taurus for the last year and a half. I'm about done. Seems I can't even make it 2 months without having to fix something or the same thing in this case

    I had the fuel pump not kicking over when I'd turn the key. I'd turn the key back and forth and finally after a few minutes or half an hour of turning the key back and forth fiNALLy the fuel pump would kick over and I could crank the car - it'd then start up.

    I finally got stranded for 2 hours with this issue and after going back 3 hours later to tow the car to have the fuel pump replaced it started right up. I changed the fuel pump anyway just to get it overwith. This was in October. Now 3 months later the cars just dieing while Im driving as if I'm out of gas. Even though I calculate it quite accurately. Of course meaning ever since putting in an 'Airtex' Complete assembly it reads the wrong amount of fuel and was never this way before. I've checked everything from ignition to spark and even hear the fuel pump kick..just sounds as though nothings going through. I added 2 fresh gallons just in case and get nothing. Not even any pressure when I checked the valve on the fuel rail.

    Yes the line is clear, fuel filter is new, relay is good and even swapped around with others. It cranks over to a start with sterter fluid but does not stay running. pulled spark plugs and bone dry. gotta spend more money on another fuel pump so I can actually get the motorcraft rrrr... any other known issues before I go break my back yanking the stupid pump agaIN??
  • As much fun as u are in for the second time,always use OEM (Motorcraft) fuel pumps. Also check and make SURE your fuel pump wiring is not or has not been pinched on top of the tank. Also check your 10 year old fuel lines from front
    to rear,for any sign of leakage. If you DO have good fuel pressure and no start, replace you idle air control valve. it's mounted by the throttle plate air intake, about 3" long, elect plug in on end and mounted with 2 8mm bolts.
    hope this helps.
  • You are right on! It was the air control idle valve. Thank you!
  • cap9cap9 Posts: 4
    Hey guys, this may skew the topic a bit, but if you have a newer model Taurus could you conceivably use parts from something like this 1998 Taurus to do some DIY repairs?

    link title
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    In a word

    NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
  • peezpeez Posts: 4
    have 1996 mercury sable 3.0 have problem engine runs ok then after 20 miles will start losing power . have replace fuel filter if engine is shut of it will restart and not have the problem it has gotten progresseably worse . any body have any suggestions
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    Have you checked fuel pressure when the problem occurs? If not I would start there. Also, one of the biggest reasons fuel pumps fail is heat. Yes heat! People run there tanks low on fuel all the time. The fuel pump is designed to be cooled by the fuel in the tank. When you run the tank low the pump is not submersed in the fuel thus creating extra heat in the pump and this damages the stator inside.

    Anyway, test the fuel pressure make sure it meets specs. Possibly an intermittent problem with fuel pump relay. Do not rule out the fact that you could be losing spark and you actually have intermittent electrical problem. Don't forget to check for spark after it stalls!! If no spark suspect crank sensor if equipped but problem is probably related to something that controls both fuel and spark!

    Hope this helps
  • peezpeez Posts: 4
    its never shut of on road but one time usually when problem occurs i can drive park shut engine offf restartart and get on on my way would you know what the fuel pump pressure is thank for reply
  • peezpeez Posts: 4
    is 25 psi for fuel pressure to low on a 96 sable are ford fuel pump that much better
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