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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump

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Comments

  • cheetos1cheetos1 Posts: 5
    edited October 2011
    as with the many other posts had intermittant starting. tried listening for fuel pump heard nothing. cranks fine until battery died, jumped started and car actually started? twice. but didn't work after that think it must of been coincidence or last bit of life in pump with the extra voltage maybe. tried banging on tank while cranking, no help. swapped relays around, no help. no fuel in fuel rail. has ignition. checked shut off switch-not popped. pulled off connector to switch- reading 11 ohms though pump one previous post said should be like 17ohms. getting 12 volts at switch connector for 1 second then drops to like 6.7 volts. jumped 12 volts to switch connector still don't hear pump. so i guess safe to say needs pump or harness smashed issue. what do u think.
  • fastchevy383fastchevy383 Posts: 5
    edited October 2011
    The pump works perfectly in the tank..connected to 12v and in the garage..out of the car. When sitting on the ground under the car and hooked to wiring harness, with output of tank going to a tank, when the key is turned on the pump starts and runs approx 2 sec then shuts off. It isnt building pressure as its running into a tank. Before I fully install the tank and lines I'd like to be sure this is doing what its supposed to be doing. Thanks for the prompt response and I hope Im on the right track...Ed
  • that doesn't sound right. now i am only trouble shooting this system for a couple hours myself my post next to yours. but if i read yours right how can the system be satisfied and turn off pump if you are pumping into another container and not building back pressure. should not shut-off shouldn't it. unless something i still don't understand.
  • If you are not building up pressure, and you have 12V going to pump, then
    the pump should remain running.
    Cliff
  • Wellllllll, thats what I was Afraid of...Now my problem seems to be...What is shutting off the pump?? And if its a Relay..Which one is it and its location. So far this has been an annoyance but Not a hard job. The hardest part so far being the communication to get the info I need to fix my ladies car.

    Could it be a relay?? Could it be because all the fuel lines and other connections werent completed? PLEASE GUYS/GALS, if you can shed some light please try..Im all ears as we are expecting snow soon and hers is the only registered vehicle at the moment..Besides my bike..Thanks for the responses and all the help!!! Sincerely, Ed Williams
  • i am reading the description and operation. are u just turing key to on to check because it says the pcm also looks for engine rotation. so see if it stays on longer when you have someone go all the way to start with key.
  • Well, after spending a little more time on it this weekend the tank is back in and the pressure is fine.... But still no start!! I also pulled the front 3 plugs and found them to be completely wet and fouled. I also observed that I really DREAD pulling the back 3 . lol. I also made sure I had good spark by grounding one of the plugs to a good ground.
    I know there has to be a tester out there that I could just plug in and it would tell me the problem but I do not have it so its trial and error.
    Thanks for the help previously and all I'll get in the future. Without sites like this us old time shade tree mechanics would give up....believe me I want to.
    Well Ive got the throttle body propped open to help dry up the plugs and have a charger on the battery. Hopefully when I go back out it just fires right up...hahahahah A GUY CAN WISH RIGHT, Thanks again, ED
  • Well.....lol..what a first word!! After all the work I put into this car, I finally figured out the head gasket was blown. She ran it out of fuel yet at the same time ran it low on anti freeze and I had no idea.

    Sooooo, any tips on changing the head gasket??? lol...I'll look on another thread. Thanksssssss alllllll
  • women? lol. (my wife wants to know what i'm laughing at) oops
  • replaced pump and filter. not fun but car fixed.
  • tes72tes72 Posts: 1
    i just bought 2002 ford tarus fem mnths ago been great k well drivin 70 today then it starts to cut out lil like low fuel but i got over halftank so then engine light stazrts flashin kill car for appt n there bout 1 n half hrs come out start everythings great drive to shop cars great mech says call if it happens again im drivin get up to 70 start cuttin engine light flashin then all good does this 2 times for bout 2 min starts and runs great except fpor few cut out does it sound like fuel pump goin out help im just a girl lol
  • Just got a '98 Taurus that only has 34,000 on it because it has sat for the last 7 years. Guy I got it from put in a battery, fuel pump, and filter. It started dying on the highway and just got worse. I had it towed home the last time. I dropped the tank and found about an inch of black goo all around the base of the pump and covering the strainer. Tried cleaning everything but still only about 15 psi at the fuel rail. The anomaly that worries me is the all of the plugs are very wet. Any ideas? :sick:
  • Car starts now, but the gas gauge is not working well, only reads 3/4 tank when filling up and it is about doubling the miles till empty read out on message board. It still has a cold start problem, cranks but takes about 3 tries? Also engine light is still on, mechanic says it read thermostat/cooling issue? This car has some problems lol. Please help! Thank you :(
  • Car starts now, but the gas gauge is not working well, only reads 3/4 tank when filling up and it is about doubling the miles till empty read out on message board. It still has a cold start problem, cranks but takes about 3 tries? Also engine light is still on, mechanic says it read thermostat/cooling issue? This car has some problems lol. Please help! Thank you :confuse:
  • sorry about the duplicate!!
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    edited March 2012
    Level is off probably because whoever installed the sending unit probably bent the rod on the float for the level sensor. As far as a cold start problem mechanic said it was a thermostat cooling issue.............. Definitely NOT the thermostat............. probably the Temperature sending unit for the computer. Be CAREFUL there ............ the car could have 2 temp sending units........ one for the computer and one for the gauge............ you PROBABLY need the one for the computer and that will fix your problem. You DEFINITELY do not need the one for the gauge as that is all that particular sender is for!! If the temp sender for the computer isn't reading the proper temp of the coolant at startup then the computer doesn't know how much fuel and air to mix to start the vehicle. As this sender continues to get worse it will result eventually in a NO-START issue due to the fact that once the sender get outside the range the computer will read it will basically shut the system down. Hope this helps!!!!!!!!
  • I have a 2001 Sable (Duratec DOHC V6). It runs good and starts good except after setting for more than 4 or 5 hours. The problem started after replacing the fuel filter. I found that in the morning (after setting overnight in the garage) it would crank over repeatedly (up to 6 or 8 or 10 seconds) until I lightly pushed down on the gas pedal. I checked the fuel pressure on the main fuel line supply schraeder valve after the car set overnight and found no pressure before starting. When I turned the key on (NOT cranking it over yet) I got about 7 psi. I let the key ON for about 5 seconds and turned it off.... the pressure immediately dropped to about 5 psi,,, I turned the Key ON again for 5 seconds (NOT cranking yet) and the pressure came up to about 15 psi.. Turned the key off and the pressure dropped a bit again back down to 11 psi... Turned the key ON again,,,, pressure up to about 22 psi and then I cranked it over and it started up immediately (without even needing to touch the gas pedal). The running fuel pressure was about 57 psi,,, but as soon as I turned the engine/key OFF,,, the pressure began dropping very quickly down to about 15 to 20 psi within 30 seconds. I read that the pressure should HOLD at about the running pressure for about 30 seconds and then "bleed off" a bit after that, but that it shouldn't DROP out that quickly. Seems like there must be a check valve somewhere that isn't working, but I can't get a straight answer to exactly where the problem is. I've heard that there is a check valve on the fuel pump/assembly in the tank, but no one has been able to tell me IF that is the most likely problem. I would replace it IF I were more confident that there isn't a potential problem somewhere else in the fuel system (i.e. maybe there's some sort of purge or pressure relief in the fuel rail,, or regulator??). There is a "shiny chrome" thing that looks like a one way valve or pressure regulator that is in the main fuel line (passenger side engine compartment near firewall), but even with my Factory Service manuals, I can't find anything that shows that part/item or what it is. the number on the item is "F1ZE-AA 000725B". I've never had a problem that no one (including the Ford Service Department) seemed to know what to tell me to help. ANY help or information would be very much appreciated.
  • Hey, 2001sable: that shiny chrome valve is definately a fuel pressure regulator (~$20) which is easy to replace but the problem could be in the pump as well.
  • Hello everyone! I have a Question for you! I just replaced my motor mounts on the front and rear of the passenger side, after I replaced them I took her for a test drive and she seemed to be driving like my problem was fixed, well after driving her about 30 miles she starts shifting to early at first it was just once in awhile then it was constant, so i got worried and have not driven it sense, I opened the hood and took the battery cables off waited about 5 minutes then i hooked them back up started the car let her idle for about 10 minutes then she started to make this noise I never heard before, I put her in drive (nothing) put her in reverse (nothing) she would not go into gear, so i turned her off went into the house came back out 10 minutes later, started her up put her in drive, she went into gear with no problem, but that noise is still there and I do not trust driving her because I don''t want to take a chance of blowing something up.
    MY QUESTION: IS THERE A POSSIBILITY THAT WHEN I CHANGED THE MOTOR MOUNTS, THAT I DID SOMETHING TO MISALIGNED THE TRANSMISSION TO THE MOTOR, BECAUSE WHEN CHANGING THE MOTOR MOUNTS I HAD TO MOVE THE ENGINE LIKE 2 INCHES IN ORDER FOR THE MOTOR MOUNT IN THE REAR PASSENGER TO LINE UP( I HAD TO MOVE THE ENGINE FORWARD AND THEN BACK)

    PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEA WHAT THE PROBLEM IS....

    THANK YOU: LADYAUTOMECH......
  • hi ladyautomech,
    sorry for a late reply. i did replaced motor mounts, as well as transmission itself on my taurus several times. used to have smth similar problem ones, but it was related to misaligned kickdown cable spring, it can be tuned easily following your repair manual like chilton or haynes. Your description of noise also suggests there could be more severe a problem, even independent of what you did (a coincidence). If kickdown doesn't help, i would suggest to have a friend to listen from under the car, while you are shifting transaxle -- where does the noise come from: an engine or the transmission, any vibration or parts loose? If its transmission, you may simply "drop" it (without removing the engine, only CV joints), quick check it and the converter and reinstall it back (or overhaul the transmission, taking this opportunity, even better). Let forum folks know if it doesn't help!
  • Any ideas out there on what would cause difficulty starting, either warm or cold? It's been happening intermittently for months, but has recently gotten worse. There's been times when it's gone weeks without a problem. When it does occur, the gauges often twitch for a few seconds before returning to normal.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    When you say it has difficulty starting, what happens when you try to start it? Does it just click and then nothing? Does it try to turn over and fail? Please provide whatever details you can to help others find the source of your issues.

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  • My car turns over and fails. Once it starts, it runs fine. Usually it starts after two or three tries, then all the dashboard gauges twitch for a few seconds. This has been happening for 8 months. Sometimes I have driven it for a week or two without any issues. My husband tested the pressure coming from the fuel pump and it seemed to be good. Also, he unhooked the fuel line somewhere under the hook and drained some bad gas and particles out of the line.
  • Hello, what year/model your Taurus is? Does it have EGR, or you have already blanked that useless thing off? Are there any error codes written in car computer?
    It seems like it's more of a spark problem than gas. Try beating this one by an exception method (it will be like small overhaul for your car, at the same time):
    1. Кeplace fuel filter(~4$)
    2. Change motor oil. Install new oil pressure switch (~5$).
    3. Replace PCV valve (~1$) and air filter ~4$
    4. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM often is faulty on Taurus!) ~25$
    5. Make sure your battery is not weared out, and alternator is charging it fine.
    6. Replace those whitish cracked plumbum clamps on your battery terminals, they are oxydised from inside.
    7. Install new spark plugs, check the spark cables.
    8. Replace the distributor cap ~8$ with a new distributor rotor (~3$)
    9. Install new starter solenoid ~5$
    All can be done in your home garage, or in the open air. Changing those parts will also help if there are any loose/oxidized connectors causing extra resistance. If problem persists, and there are no any error codes in the computer, consider to go for major expenses like wash fuel system/clean injectors at your preferred auto service (~150$); buy a new starter ~50$ or new fuel pump (~60$), costly but won't hurt your car anyway) Hope it helps a bit.../arctic_taurus
  • Thanks for the info. It's a 2007 Taurus/SEL, not sure what engine it has, but it's not DOH.

    We were thinking it might be a fuel rail issue or the sensor/regulator that's located at the end of the fuel rail. My brother ran an app on it and I believe it said bank 1 was running lean.
  • We have a 1998 Sable wagon, not a SHO with 215000 miles. The engine is the standard stock engine. It has run fine until a couple of weeks ago when it began to miss and had a slight backfire when going up a hill. The check engine light has been on ever since. The problem now is intermitent.
    We took it to a dealership and they THINK it is the fuel pump. The cost $1000. They ran a couple of tests and the following information was on the invoice. 215250 code P0172 Rich bank 2, PSI test was 26-35 psi entire ride No vacuum leaks.

    I consulted a good local mechanic and after hearing the sympoms he was skeptical about the fuel pump because the misfire does'nt get worse when accelerating up hill. It actually clears up better. He said run it to failure and he would charge under $500 to replace the fuel pump. Any thoughts on the problem.
  • jmsr21jmsr21 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Sable LS with a temp gauge that isn't working. The engine light came on, the temp gauge started reading low and then stopped reading anything. Took it to the mechanic, they said that the thermostat was stuck. Had them replace it but the gauge is still dead. It's the only one on the cluster not working. I asked if it could be the ECT sensor and was told no. The computer is getting a good signal from the sensor, so the mech. said it has to be working. He is saying there is a problem with the cluster but that doesn't make sense. Ford went to a single sensor/sending unit comb for this car, so I know it's not the sender because there isn't a separate one. Tempted to just have them replace the sensor and hope that fixes it.

    Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. The idea of driving around with no temp gauge really bothers me!

    Thanks!
  • hi msr21
    If the computer really is getting a good signal from the sending unit, what is the error code on the check engine light?
    New temperature sender for your Sable (2 pinned from Motorcraft) costs 9 dollars and surely you can replace it yourself, and also probably check the wiring from it in order to make sure.
    On another hand, if it proves to be a cluster problem, I would assume you have an electronic cluster because there is virtually nothing to break in the mechanical one :confuse: ...regards, arctic_taurus
  • torqued1torqued1 Posts: 3
    edited December 2012
    I pulled all the fuses out shined up the terminals and the check engine light went out and the fuel pump works now( what a cheap fix.)
  • try cleaning up your 30 amp fuse for pump and check all your grounds
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