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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump



  • I switched the relay today and nothing. No start.
  • I was on the forum earlier with fuel pump issues. The original problem seemed to be fixed when we determined that the car alarm anti theft measure may have shut off the fuel injectors, but then the problem reoccurred; the last time it shut off while my son was driving home from work. It sat at home till I had a chance to look at it and when I did it turned over, now it won't again. Is there a way to bypass the anti-theft system or has it been your experience that a fuel pump my have this off & on problem as it is going out? I'm tired of getting it towed!
  • in my experience the fuel pump just started to go on and off while it was dying. I got tired of waiting and i did try every thing imaginable to try and not replace the fuel pump directly. Unfortunatley that is what i had to do to relieve this problem. Really not to bad a job to do if you have a couple of floor jacks and another hand to help. Part is the expensive part I got mine Napa for $300.
  • trose2trose2 Posts: 1
    I have an 02 taurus with 212000miles and recently have had to start replacing parts here and biggest question is, is when im going a certain speed like 30mph and i stay at that speed for awhile it starts to studder and act dumb...also when snow or to much air goes through in the front where the radiator sits it studders to...anyone have an idea what needs to be replaced??????
  • Replace your DPFE (EGR pressure sensor)! cheap and easy $30-40. If you have a OHV-V6 it's just over the back of the intake plenum just in front of fire wall-it's a small thin black box that mounts to back of intake it has a small circle button on top and 2 small hoses underneath and an electrical harness connection on backside (please check Ebay auto parts section and plug in your vehicle-look under emissions and put in egr pressure sensor in search line) This will give you a picture of part! So easy to change and I would almost guarantee that's your prob. I'm in need to change mine (167,000 mi.), 'Cuz it's doing it again after 50,000 mi. on part. Good luck-by the way it's not your EGR valve itself that's the cause so DON'T GET SUCKED IN TO BUYING ONE-THEY ARE $80 and don't solve prob!
  • I have a 2001 Ford taurus and after 130K miles the pump went out in December. My father in Law owns a ford dealership and has run the service dept for 40 years. He put in a Napa pump at the end of December to save me some money. 2 weeks later it went out. Napa warranted the pump but not the labor. Had a Ford dealer here where i live install the new pump from napa. Tech lowered the car down went to start it up, and the pump was shot! Again i paid for the labor. Now we went to pump 3, a ford pump with the warranty. Presto, it worked..... for 2 months then it went bad too. Now at this point, this is the 4th pump including the original. Ford fixed for free. Life was good for a while. Then last week, presto, the pump goes out again!!!!!!! Ford, the dealership and me are all unhappy. Car did 130K on the first pump and now the car has been driven a total of 10 miles a day for 3 months and we are working on pump 5. If it just tunrs over, its the pump. Mine would always start cold but not once it warmed up before it went totally out. Each one of my pumps died while the car was running. Once on the road and the rest in my driveway. Driveway is sloped so the pump has to work harder to pump the fuel. Half a tank will definitely help keep the pump going but ALWAYS get the ford pump that comes with the labor warranty. I have spent $2000 on this problem and my car was probably only worth $3000. DO NOT GET AFTERMARKET PUMP!. I Hope this helps more people.
  • On my car the gas Gage does not work and it is having the same problems, the only way I am able to keep it from cutting off and not starting is to drive it with my foot constantly on the gas even when I am breaking, I drove it all day yesterday like that, before I turned the engine off I just lightly pressed the gas pedal to the floor then turned it off. The car has started for me every time. My question is do to the gas Gage not working anyways and I am having the same problems is it wise to just go ahead and replace the fuel pump. To my understanding the gas Gage part has broken off and is floating in the tank the next thing to go is the fuel pump? Is this true....
  • alnmaralnmar Posts: 6
    i would just go ahead and replace the fuel pump.... it is a problem with the car it seems and is something that will give you a lot of headaches if you don't replace it soon... as far as how long it will start and stop i don't know, but the diodes under the hood may need to be replaced as well.....
  • Thank you for getting back to me so quickly greatly appreciated, I will also replace what you mentioned under the hood. Again greatly appreciated, you have a wonderful day. I will be sure to come back with any and all questions or concerns if any come up.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    You my not get a new gas gauge sender with an after market fuel pump. Make sure your pump has float & rod on it.
    Also forget about the diodes up front, if your car starts and goes down the road, the diodes are OK.
    It sounds like your problem is throttle position sensor. It is mounted on your air intake tube, has two mounting screws, is small & black plastic, with a # of wires going to it.
    A new pump may fix your gas gauge, but it will not fix your running problem.
  • Thank You so very much I do appreciate your time and input on my situation.
    See the thing is I have been questioning my fuel pump because of the fact I can hear it working strong, to me it seems like something is blocking the gas flow. Every sence my roomate ran her (meaning my car) out of gas and kept cranking it trying to start it is when I started having this problem. Tonight I was driving it over to my friends place so we can drop the tank and when I felt her hesitate getting ready to die I let my foot off the gas and coasted down the street with my flashers on and it was like she started zooming down the road again, so i lightly pushed on the gas pedal and away we went, then she like chug chug and the engine light came on I let off the gas and the engine light went off and we drove to my friends house with out her cutting off.

    thank you again....
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Well now, I guess you could have a weak pump but try this first. With key in the off pos. turn off all acc, radio,wipers, blower motor, door closed, and seat belt buckled. Turn key to on pos,
    and listen for a humming noise that last for 1-3 sec. and stops. If it does this, look on your fuel rail for a port that looks like a tire valve, the fuel rail is on top of your eng and is stainless steel, looks like chrome. Remove the valve cap and depress the valve stem with small screw driver, ball point pen or anything you can find. DO NOT have y.our face over this port. It should shoot a stream of gas out of the port. If it dose, your pump is building up ample pressure. If it just dribbles out then let me know, and I'll point you to another area
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    I had a problem similar .......... make sure you have an good ground!! I ran a dedicated ground to mine and it seemed to make a difference.......... also I believe yours also has a fuel return system built right into the pump. By that I mean when there new they will overcome the relief valve on the pump and keep the pressure where it needs to be but after they wear in if its bypassing pressure constantly then it will slowly wear itself out and wont be able to produce enough pressure. I have seen that before so pay particular attention to the bypass thats built into the pump module!!!!!!!!
  • The Fuel Pump makes the humming sound then I checked the valve stem like you said and only dribble comes out its like no pressure at all it seems, Just to add when I took off the gas cap there was no hissing sound either. So is this indeed the fuel pump, I did replace the fuel filter and when we took out the fuel pump everything was intact it looked fairly brand new, with that in mind, why doesn't the gas Gage work? If there is anything else I can do to determine what's wrong please let me know. Oh! One more thing I forgot to add the car sat in her drive way for about 4-5 months because her late husband bought her a 2011 ford taurus, he did start it every other day to pull it from the street to the dive way, if that makes a difference in solving my problem. I bought the car from my best friend last month. She was the second owner, her mom bought it from her best friend in late 1990 with only 15,000 miles on it...any ways if you could get back to me ..... Thank you
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    On your fuel rail, you have a fuel pressure regulator. It is about the size of a very small Dixie
    cup and it has a vac. hose on the top. Do the same test as before, only this time pull off the vac. hose and see if there is any gas in this hose. if so replace this valve. if ithis valve is DRY,
    them your pump may be the problem.
    1 other thought, get a feul pressure gage from Auto-Zone ( rent at no charge ) and hook it up the the test port on the fuel rail. The fuelpump should build up about 40-45 lbs. pressure. If it does your pump is ok, but you could have a fuel injector not holding pressure and leaking into the cyl.
    Do these checks and let me know.
  • johnh7097johnh7097 Posts: 1
    Hi, i have read all of the messages on here and on other web sites about these fuel pump issues on the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. Needless to say i can't believe how many of us have had the same issues and been unable to solve them. As usual Ford will not officially admit their responsibility. I have had the same problems as everybody else, the car runs fine, then one time you stop for 10-15 minutes and the car will not restart. let it sit for 1/2 hour and it starts and runs fine. This happened a couple of times then finally it stopped running altogether one day cold in the garage. I broke down and bought a motorcraft fuel pump, $325, put it in myself, thought the problem was solved, car ran great for 2-3 months, not it stopped working again altogether, no fuel pump run on initial ingnition switch on again, no start. now I have to start all over again, hopefully it will be something easy instead of a bad pump, one thing that bothers me about some of these posts is the guys that recommend runnning a seperate ground wire to the pump. After reading about the inertia switch being on the ground side of the pump, if that is true and you are telling people to run a seperate ground from the pump to under the rear seat to a " good ground " then you are telling people to bypass a very important safety feature of the ford fuel system. If you bypass that inertia switch and something happens to that car in an accident where the fuel pump keeps running and the fuel spills causing a fire and continuous flow of fuel keeps coming out, when Ford Motor Company put in a safety feature to prevent that, and someone dies in the fire, morally and legally you would be responsible for someones death, i know they may never be able to prove the death was a result of this post but your name and e-mail account are attached to this website and you could be drawn into a multi-million $$$ lawsuit, so before you go giving advise on how to disable safety features on vehicles you should think twice about adding wires or disconnecting wires that may or may not involve safety features that are built into cars by the manufacturer. Just my opinion be careful and be safe, fix it right or leave it to an expert, don't half [non-permissible content removed] your wiring systems on your car or you could be sorry, thanks for this website,
  • I replaced my fuel pump did everything I was asked to do and I did not even get 5 miles and the dam thing did it again, only this time 4 to 7 hours later after being stranded it started I got it to Auto Zone where I bought the Fuel Pump asked to Borrow their Pressure Gage only to be told it would cost be $160.00 and when i bring them back the Pressure gage I would get the $160.00 back, now mind you my car was just outside their front door, but no they would not even let me borrow it they would not even come out their with me, I was told they do not do that kind of services along with the check engine light service.
    Any ways do you think this could be a faulty Fuel Pump, my other one I had no problem hearing it this one i have to strain to hear it, and it did not correct my fuel gage problem, I have a full tank and it just started reading 1/2 a tank, it just verys some times it reads a quarter of a tank.
    So far this project has cost me a total of $500.00 parts and labor and I am at my witts end a couple guys that work with me at the Auto Auction we are going to start from the rear and work our way to the front cleaning and inspecting every inch of this vehicle to figure out what the hell could be causing this. It is rediculous that Ford has not come up with a solution to this matter, Seeing that it is a on going problem with this make and model, you would think they would do everything in their power to fix or at least pin point why we are all having the same problem, with the way the economy is today we do not and can not afford being with out our vehicle let alone paying cost after cost to keep doing the same job over and over due to faulty parts and not knowing why this keeps happening to this vehicle. If you come up with any other ideas what may be causeing this problem, please I am all ears.
    If we run into anything I will keep you all posted, we are going to clean, test, make notes of everything that is being done to my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan....
    Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
    Thank You... S
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    As far as your fuel level reading is concerned ............ the gauges in the car are electronic too. That being said they operate within a certain ohm range..... meaning resistance is what the gauge reads. Now there is a rheostat (otherwise known as a potentiometer) that is built into the fuel pump assembly .............. that works basically the same way the thermostat on the wall in your house works by varying the voltage that gets to the gauge. However there are instances where the gauge itself can be bad because the electronics in the gauge do not properly read the voltage coming from the fuel pump. I myself have only seen this a handful of times (maybe 3). So that all said you could possibly have 2 separate problems going on here. Like I said in a previous e-mail you need to make sure that the pressure relief part of the system is functioning properly. You may have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail under the hood. There should be a vacuum hose attached to it........... if the car will start....... remove the hose and see if any fuel comes out. If it does replace the regulator the diaphragm inside is bad!! If it doesn't have the external pressure regulator I would almost have to say the pump is defective if the fuel pressure doesn't fall within specs. IMPORTANT........... make ABSOLUTELY sure that all the connections are good ESPECIALLY the ground!!!!!!!!!! In one instance I had to run a dedicated (separate) ground to the pump along with the one built into the harness........... I dont know why this made a difference......... I can't explain it........... but it did. The only thing that makes any sense is there was to much resistance in the harness ground. Anyway I hope this helps??? Best of luck to you!!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    1. Other cause of fuel pressure loss could be a leaking fuel injector, With everything turned off, radio, heater,door closed, seat belt latched.
    Turn ign key from off to the run pos. listen for a humming noise that lasts 1-2 sec. then stops..
    Does the car run at all ?

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