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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump

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  • Any ideas out there on what would cause difficulty starting, either warm or cold? It's been happening intermittently for months, but has recently gotten worse. There's been times when it's gone weeks without a problem. When it does occur, the gauges often twitch for a few seconds before returning to normal.
  • Kirstie@EdmundsKirstie@Edmunds Posts: 10,674
    When you say it has difficulty starting, what happens when you try to start it? Does it just click and then nothing? Does it try to turn over and fail? Please provide whatever details you can to help others find the source of your issues.

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • My car turns over and fails. Once it starts, it runs fine. Usually it starts after two or three tries, then all the dashboard gauges twitch for a few seconds. This has been happening for 8 months. Sometimes I have driven it for a week or two without any issues. My husband tested the pressure coming from the fuel pump and it seemed to be good. Also, he unhooked the fuel line somewhere under the hook and drained some bad gas and particles out of the line.
  • Hello, what year/model your Taurus is? Does it have EGR, or you have already blanked that useless thing off? Are there any error codes written in car computer?
    It seems like it's more of a spark problem than gas. Try beating this one by an exception method (it will be like small overhaul for your car, at the same time):
    1. Кeplace fuel filter(~4$)
    2. Change motor oil. Install new oil pressure switch (~5$).
    3. Replace PCV valve (~1$) and air filter ~4$
    4. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM often is faulty on Taurus!) ~25$
    5. Make sure your battery is not weared out, and alternator is charging it fine.
    6. Replace those whitish cracked plumbum clamps on your battery terminals, they are oxydised from inside.
    7. Install new spark plugs, check the spark cables.
    8. Replace the distributor cap ~8$ with a new distributor rotor (~3$)
    9. Install new starter solenoid ~5$
    All can be done in your home garage, or in the open air. Changing those parts will also help if there are any loose/oxidized connectors causing extra resistance. If problem persists, and there are no any error codes in the computer, consider to go for major expenses like wash fuel system/clean injectors at your preferred auto service (~150$); buy a new starter ~50$ or new fuel pump (~60$), costly but won't hurt your car anyway) Hope it helps a bit.../arctic_taurus
  • Thanks for the info. It's a 2007 Taurus/SEL, not sure what engine it has, but it's not DOH.

    We were thinking it might be a fuel rail issue or the sensor/regulator that's located at the end of the fuel rail. My brother ran an app on it and I believe it said bank 1 was running lean.
  • We have a 1998 Sable wagon, not a SHO with 215000 miles. The engine is the standard stock engine. It has run fine until a couple of weeks ago when it began to miss and had a slight backfire when going up a hill. The check engine light has been on ever since. The problem now is intermitent.
    We took it to a dealership and they THINK it is the fuel pump. The cost $1000. They ran a couple of tests and the following information was on the invoice. 215250 code P0172 Rich bank 2, PSI test was 26-35 psi entire ride No vacuum leaks.

    I consulted a good local mechanic and after hearing the sympoms he was skeptical about the fuel pump because the misfire does'nt get worse when accelerating up hill. It actually clears up better. He said run it to failure and he would charge under $500 to replace the fuel pump. Any thoughts on the problem.
  • jmsr21jmsr21 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Sable LS with a temp gauge that isn't working. The engine light came on, the temp gauge started reading low and then stopped reading anything. Took it to the mechanic, they said that the thermostat was stuck. Had them replace it but the gauge is still dead. It's the only one on the cluster not working. I asked if it could be the ECT sensor and was told no. The computer is getting a good signal from the sensor, so the mech. said it has to be working. He is saying there is a problem with the cluster but that doesn't make sense. Ford went to a single sensor/sending unit comb for this car, so I know it's not the sender because there isn't a separate one. Tempted to just have them replace the sensor and hope that fixes it.

    Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. The idea of driving around with no temp gauge really bothers me!

    Thanks!
  • hi msr21
    If the computer really is getting a good signal from the sending unit, what is the error code on the check engine light?
    New temperature sender for your Sable (2 pinned from Motorcraft) costs 9 dollars and surely you can replace it yourself, and also probably check the wiring from it in order to make sure.
    On another hand, if it proves to be a cluster problem, I would assume you have an electronic cluster because there is virtually nothing to break in the mechanical one :confuse: ...regards, arctic_taurus
  • torqued1torqued1 Posts: 3
    edited December 2012
    I pulled all the fuses out shined up the terminals and the check engine light went out and the fuel pump works now( what a cheap fix.)
  • try cleaning up your 30 amp fuse for pump and check all your grounds
  • check engine light is on= code P0191...Symptom's are "No start but cranking has spark"...first key turn no fuel pump prime noise heard.... symptom comes and goes in any type of weather or temperatures On second crank if you turn the key to off and than turn it back to crank ( if i hear the fuel pump prime) than the car starts..but if i don't it will just crank but sometimes after i hear the pump prime and starts it stumbles like it wants to die and it does..(and sometimes it doesn't stumble) So i do this a few times making sure i hear the pump prime and if i get lucky it starts and runs fine and off i go...Once the car is running i have no problems with staling at stops,highway speeds or idle.. Symptoms appear at first start no matter how long its been sitting (5minute to 24hrs)..youtube has a real good video on this "Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis (Part 1)"..did all the Diagnosis on the black box module connecters and the inertia switch and everything passed...So what the HELL is up with this car? anyone thinks it's the Fuel pump? or something else? Any feedback is appreciated
  • gsc01972gsc01972 Posts: 6
    edited January 2013
    .the problem was the (part number Xs2z9f972ea ) Sensor Fuel Injector Pressure on a 2000 taurus se 3.0 24v duratec
  • Wow! thanks, gsc01972. that one must have cost like a new fuel pump! :cry: If anyone has similar problem, I'd measure voltage with multimeter on the connector to the inertia switch to diagnose that thing: on 2000, the fuel pressure regulator (or "fuel pressure sensor") is an unusual electric switch feeding between PCM and a fuel pump voltage regulator which will turn up or lower the voltage to the fuel pump to control the pressure that way (instead of just letting excess gas flow through a return line back, as in older Taurus). If the voltage was present in both cases (when there's humming noise from the pump, and when not), that would be most likely be pump itself..
  • This problem was driving me nuts.....yeah..it is costly...on E-bay around $113 NEW...don't know what it is at the dealer but im not buying it!! ill go to the junkyard and buy one for under $10..Hopefully its a good one! Yes im cheap...specially on a 13yr old car that has no selling value. On KBB it has value but on Craigslist a really nice one you can get for under $2200 in the NEW England states ....In the end i hope this helps anyone that has this kind of problem....Do it yourself and SAVE MONEY....In the age of information..
  • yeah, junkyard can be a treasury house for some parts! Taurus is a great car, 13 years isn't really an age for it..
  • jimski27jimski27 Posts: 1
    Purchased this car used in 2010. Currently has 57k original miles. Last summer (2012) after a 20-30 minute drive, and then parking for 5-10 minutes the car started fine, but stalled about 3-4 minutes later and would not restart. Turned over fine, but (apparently) no fuel. Tried it for nearly an hour with no success and finally called AAA. Forty five minutes later, the tow-truck driver decided to give it a try and it started fine. Drove straight to the local shop and left the car with them. Nothing on computer diagnostics and after 24 hours they couldn't reproduce the problem. Flushed the injectors to be safe. Three weeks later, the exact same thing happened. Thirty minute drive, 10 minutes in the store, and then stalled while leaving the parking lot. Tried to restart every 15-20 minutes, and after 75 minutes it started fine. Suspected a fuel problem or vapor lock (been told that a 2002 should not have vapor lock issue). Switched stations and added Heet with each full tank.

    Problem didn't reoccur till January 2013 (nearly 6 months). Now it has happened 5 times in 2 months. Three of the 5 times, it has been during the day (living in hot Florida) after a short drive, stopping for 5-10 minutes and then restarting. Always lets me drive a couple/few hundred feet before stalling. Two other times it happened after being parked at work for 6-8 hours. Waiting 70 to 90 minutes, trying every 15-20 minutes has gotten me back on the road each time.

    Happened again today, after a 1.5 mile drive, and being in store for 10 minutes. That was 15 days since the last occurrence, which has almost identical symptoms. Already replaced the fuel pump relay and thought the problem was solved, but it reoccurred after 10 days. I am prepared to bring the car to a Ford dealer and probably get the fuel pump replaced (I am really strapped for cash, otherwise I would replace this otherwise great running car). But after reading some of these posts, not sure if that will be a long term solution. The grounding issue is interesting. Anything else, like these mentioned diodes (not sure if that's in my 2002) or a fuel pressure regulator, that would cause such an intermittent problem. I "definitely" get no sound when I turn the key to on and the car won't start. As soon as I turn to On and hear the hum, I know it will start fine. Has never happened when I leave for work in the morning for the past two years. Has never stalled on the road while driving. Only as described above. Not really prepared to put the car up on jacks. When I was 25, that was a possibility, but at 57 not ready for anything like that. Still seems like an electrical problem to me.
  • gsc01972gsc01972 Posts: 6
    i would replace the fuel pressure regulator..its on top of the engine next or on the fuel rail so you would not need to jack the car up...Mine did the same thing....(That part new is at least $113) If you don't have the money now and you still want to drive the car and don't want to wait hours till its fitz are over...like i said...turn the key to "ON" not running the engine.. listen for the pump to turn on. If you hear the pump turn on than start the car.. your good. If you don't hear the pump then turn it to "OFF" meaning turn the key towards you all the way than turn it back to "ON" again...Repeat till you do hear the pump...There is no real wait time to "Repeat" just don't do it to fast or slow..."on" ,"off " listen, "on" ,"off " listen,"on" ,"off " listen... smooth...just like opening the front door of your house with a key...Good luck
  • hello everyone my ford taurus started running kind of rough its ok when cold but when it starts warming up the rpms go up and down a few times it sputtered and almost stalled when i was at the stop lights ohh and when i change my heat settings the rpms also go up and down i thought it might be my fuel pump i checked the valve on the fuel rail and it squirts out real good can someone please help me thankyou very much
  • drcarp3drcarp3 Posts: 3
    My Taurus is hard to start after it sits overnight. After it starts it runs fine, no codes etc. It starts up better after it has been running. Do you think it could be the fuel pump? I think the pressure is bleeding back into the fuel tank when it sits.
  • gsc01972gsc01972 Posts: 6
    i don't know its hard to guess because it could be other stuff wrong with it like old worn out spark plugs or coil block..with mine it started very slow i would start it didn't matter if it would sit or not..it would start but than it acted like it was running out of gas and die...turn off the key and back on a few time than it would stay running..finally the POS died for good and replaced the fuel pump never had a problem since..have someone turn on the key but dont run the car engine and listen for the pump to prime after it sits over night on your first try for the day. i bought my pump on ebay..autozone was $200 with the plastic housing ebay was under $60 just the pump with strainers...same brand autozone uses.. Airtex
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