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Toyota Corolla Electrical Problems



  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Not sure what you mean "will not hold jump start". Anyway, the easiest way to check the alternator is to jump the car/battery as you would to start it. Now remember, if your battery is really old/bad, it will take some time of idling or reving of the jumping car after the jumper cables are attached to actually give your car enough charge to start your car. After it's running remove the jumper cables, then remove one of the attached battery cables from your battery after the car is running. If the car remains running your alternator is fine, if the car stops upon removing one of the battery cables, your alternator is bad. Cost of decent 5 year battery is approx. $70.00 to $80.00, Cost of after market alternator anyware from $150.00 to $200.00 and about $50.00 to install. Genuine Toyota alternator would be more.
  • I love my Toyota however it has died 2-3 times while running in the last two weeks, the first time I thought it was because I was low on gas, but I still had a half gallon. The 2nd time I was on a neighborhood street thank god. Someone looked at it and replaced a fuse. I'll have to look at the diagram and figure out what it controls. Today it died in another bad place in the middle of an intersection and fortunately the guy behind me jumped out and pushed me to a safe place. Then same guy who fixed it before came and helped me and replaced the fuse with a 20 (amp?) fuse. He said there should be no problem. And it drove home, however I have no wish to drive it with an infant or in icy snowy roads and cause an accident because it dies again. However I need to truly fix it, if 15 amp was used before is it really wise to replace it with a 20? Who do I take it to? I've had this thing for 11 years now, never really had a problem except for the driver window, and the solenoid switch. What do I do first? Economically times are hard, paying for costly repairs that result in nothing isn't what I'm looking for.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    First off if you only had a half gallon of gas in your car you WERE very low on gas. You realize with this small amount of gas left, any slight inclined could have caused your car to stop. Secondly, I'm not sure why a fuse would cause your car to stop. Thirdly, replacing a fuse with a higher amperage fuse is only hiding your electrical problem, not solving it. Suggest finding a technician you could trust so you have no doubts that paying for a repair is going to solve your problems.
  • ezee2ezee2 Posts: 4
    Which fuse control the power window glass of 2004 Corolla?Which fuse control the power window glass of 2004 Corolla?
    The fuse spouse to be Under nee of steering wheel, on fuse box cover one mark refer to 30A P/W fuse iCon, fuse spouse to be there right?

    Wondering no referring fuse there is empty slot. Please help me to find out what control of power window fuse or Rely and where they located.
    By the way I’m asking because all window stop working automatic door are working fine.
  • I have a 91 corolla. there is a couple of problems with it. one the clutch is out witch isnt that big of a deal but it wont turn over with the key. i didnt know if that was because the clutch is out or if it was the starter or something. If you get it rolling and dump the clutch it will start as long as the key is turned on but that is the only way i can get it started. If anyone knows the answer or has a suggestion msg me back. thanks
  • i'm having the same problem now, what did you find out?
  • harbinx1harbinx1 Posts: 1
    My 1998 Toyota Corolla right rear power door lock stopped functioning about 2 years ago. Six weeks ago my left front control button stopped operating both of the right side door locks, but continued operating both left side door locks. Using the key in the right front door locked and unlocked the right front door and the two leaft side doors, but the right front control button does not work. Last week a friend who is a decent mechanic pulled apart the right rear door panel and monkeyed with the apparatus. Then I used the left front control button to lock the doors. They locked, but would not unlock. We tried to locate the main power door lock fuse, but could not find it. Now I have to manually lock and unlock all the doors. Can you help me?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electrical schematics for your specific vehicle, but normally the way you have to trouble shoot these problems is to start with the switches on the drivers door. The power for door locks and windows goes there first, and then out to the other doors. The problems you find in this area are typically:
    - drivers side switch bad
    - individual doorlock or window regulator bad
    - wiring bad between the drivers side door jamb and drivers door, due to many years of flexing and unflexing every time the drivers door is opened.

    These problems are not technically difficult to identify and fix, just tedious. You'll need a voltmeter/ohmmeter. Start at the drivers door switch, and verify that each switch is working properly with a voltmeter. Then move the voltmeter to the doors, and verify that the same voltage that you had on the drivers switch, has made it thru the wiring to the individual doors. Using the drivers switch, and the meter on the doors, verify each is working properly. Then move to meter out the door switches. Verify that the remote switch is working correctly, and then also providing the voltage to the locking mechanism.
  • The battery in my 03 Corolla seems to be slowly draining, as if I had a light or something on somewhere in the car. Whenever I start the car, it cranks slowly like the battery is really low. I've tried cutting the engine and then restarting after driving it around and it starts back up more quickly, as though the battery has charged some. I've checked everywhere and it doesn't seem like I've left anything on. Also the hydrometer on my battery seems to indicate that the battery is just fine. When I open the doors after leaving it off for a while the dome light is really dim. It's like something is slowly drawing power from the battery when the car is off but I can't figure out what. This is very annoying and I really don't want to take it to a shop or replace the battery until I have a better idea of what's going on. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Very simply put, it sounds like you need a new battery. The alternator is good if the battery is charging. You know batteries don't last forever? If this is the original battery you extended the average life of an OEM battery. Oh, and disregard that hydrometer test, it doesn't mean much.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    My guess would be a poor earth (ground) for one or both of the brake lights. That's a problem that plagued your generation of Corolla and the preceding generation. That's where I'd start looking.
  • massodmassod Posts: 10

    went o the mall this afternoon. when I came out and tried to start the engine, it didn't. according the manual, I should take it to the dealer because of the warning light symbol. I called the tow truck company. the guy checked the the car and told me that it could be either battery or the alternator. after a few minutes of charging the battery, I tried to start the car and it wouldn't. so, the guy told me the alternator is the problem. so, he took the car to the shop for complete checkup and called back to let me know that I need a new alternator and a battery. so, my question is what happend to the "QUALITY"? I have ownd 10 cars in my life and never had an alternator problem. the technician told me that it's going to cost me about $500 - $600. unfortunatley, I lost my job last month and can't afford it. what's the reasonable cost to put in a new alternator? the technician price is based on AC-Delco alternative and Interstate battery. Thank a million in advance of your help.

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    You don't mention what year your Corolla is, or even how long you have owned it. Unfortunately batteries and alternators do wear out. Sounds like your history of trading or buying cars fequently has allowed you to luck out until now by not having to replace either of these. Your quote for replacing these two items seems high to me compared to what my garage would charge me. Figure $100 for the battery and $150 for the alternator and two hours labor tops to install these items and I come up with about $400 total on the high end. Shop around.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Terceltom, it's a 2006 - see the title of the post.

    Massod, It is a bit soon for an alternator and a battery. My guess is that they have not both failed, or that one is the result of the other. Stuff happens, no car is perfect.
  • massodmassod Posts: 10
    Thanks for your response. It has 42,000 miles on it. I'll take it to another shop for repair or doitmyself, if they don't drop their price.
  • the light does not turn on except signal lights, door open etc.. odometer,speed,rpm,gas, water no illumination light to be able to see panel i cant see. dimmer switch stop work including dome light, a/c lights i found two fuses that were burn out but i want to make sure it is the relay before i buy new one what can i do and how??
  • I paid for two hours of labor, which I believe it was excessive. I paid $470 for parts and labor to replace the alternator! I WILL NOT buy another TOYOTA.

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Okay, so in post #35 you stated that your technician told you that replacing your alternator would cost you around $500-$600. Then you went to him to have the work completed anyway. He comes in under his estimate, at $470.00. Now you decide it was too expensive? I guess I would ask if he quoted you more and you were okay with it, and he charged you even less than what he said, why the problem? As I stated in post #36, I felt his quote of $500-$600 was excessive. I also told you it would be around $400.00 on the high end and I did say it would be around two hours labor and that's what he charged. So you had ample information from the technician and myself. Why blame Toyota? All car's alternators will fail eventually if you keep the car long enough. In fact, I'm willing to bet that, that alternator lasted longer than most other cars would have. So the bottom line is, yes you were over charged slightly, but you knew what it would cost before you took your car to get fixed. He cut you a break from what he told you and now your dissappointed, why?
  • Have a 2005 corolla. Drove it to school the other day, parked. Came out of class,
    no head lights or power to the fuel pump. No warning lights ever came on. Will start with
    either so we have ignition. Any suggestions?
  • Does anyone know what this statement means? I took my 96 Corolla for an oil change yesterday at The Lube Center. I've owned her for 2.5 years, and she is running fine with 153K miles on her :-). However, when I started the car to leave, an engine check indicator light came on and remained lit. I stopped the engine, and the manager plugged something into the electrical system to identify the problem. This message came up on the screen, but he had no idea what it meant. (Note: I could have the letters mixed up, but they were definitely a combination of I, T, and A.) I'll call a Toyota dealer, but does anyone know what this may mean and have any advice for me? All it says in my manual is to see my dealer ASAP when this indicator light appears. I am struggling to survive on unemployment benefits so I hope this is not expensive to fix. Also, have I been damaging my catalytic converter system by allowing my fuel tank to go to empty before filling each week? I read something in the manual about this stressing the car's system. I thought it was good for the car to get rid of all the "old" gas before putting in new.
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