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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Could be the outer CV joint on whichever side you hear the clicking noise from.

    The mileage is low for such a failure, but if one of the boots is torn, likely it got dirt and grit in it to chew it up early.

    Here's some info from the web:
    http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/tires_wheels/ques111_0.html
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    Do you mean from the steering column itself? Here is a link to a TSB for clicking or popping noises while turning the wheel http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27884&d=1261437334- . The fix is to replace the steering column. Let us know if you figure it out.
  • I've had my '08 Accord 4 cyl (bought it "certified pre-owned" w/38k mi) for just 6 months. In the past 2 months it started making a loud engine noise when started. The noise subsides after several seconds, but it sounds like a friggin diesel engine initially.

    I took it into the dealer on Randall Road in Algonquin, IL. Note that when I took it to the dealer I had had the vehicle only 3000 miles, so it was ready for its first oil change. They said the oil was "sludgy" and blamed it on the dealer where I purchased (Honda of Schaumburg IL), changed the oil and said "come back if it doesn't improve in 1000 miles".

    I think I saw someone mention that there's a service bulletin for the engine noise at startup, but I can't locate it. Appreciate any help.
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    I found it in post #922. I think there is a actual audio/video clip somewhere. I'll post a link to it if I find it. Hope this helps!
    © 2009 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 41171-41384 (0904) 1 of 2
    CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment,
    and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume
    this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an
    authorized Honda automobile dealer.
    April 11, 2009
    09-010
    Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED
    Engine Rattles at Cold Start-Up
    (Supersedes 09-010, dated February 11, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
    REVISION SUMMARY
    Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the
    Symptom Code has changed.
    SYMPTOM
    At cold start-up, the engine rattles loudly for about
    2 seconds.
    PROBABLE CAUSE
    The VTC (variable timing control) actuator is faulty.
    VEHICLES AFFECTED
    2008 Accord L4 2/4-Door – ALL
    2009 Accord L4 2-Door –
    From VIN 1HGCS1...9A000001 thru
    1HGCS1...9A004953
    2009 Accord L4 4-Door –
    From VIN 1HGCP2...9A000001 thru
    1HGCP2...9A029528
    From VIN JHMCP2...9C000001 thru
    JHMCP2...9C010096
    CORRECTIVE ACTION
    Replace the VTC actuator.
    PARTS INFORMATION
    VTC Actuator: P/N 14310-R44-A01, H/C 8665374
    VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve O-Ring:
    P/N 15832-RAA-A01, H/C 7131873
    Chain Case O-Ring:
    P/N 91302-PNA-004, H/C 6753560
    REQUIRED MATERIALS
    Hondabond HT Liquid Silicone Gasket
    P/N 08718-0004, H/C 8263386
    (One tube repairs two vehicles.)
    WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
    In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
    Operation Number: 110153
    Flat Rate Time: 4.0 hours
    Failed Part: P/N 14310-R44-A01
    H/C 8665374
    Defect Code: 03214
    Symptom Code: 04201
    Template ID: 09-010A
    Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
    expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
    the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
    Office. You must request consideration, and get a
    decision, before starting work.
    DIAGNOSIS
    NOTE: If you’re reading this service bulletin on ISIS
    and your computer has sound, click on the picture to
    hear an example of the engine rattle.
    1. Allow the oil to drain from the VTC system by not
    starting the engine for at least 6 hours.
    2. Start the cold engine, and immediately listen for a
    loud rattle:
    Do you hear a loud rattle that lasts about
    2 seconds?
    Yes - Go to REPAIR
  • Wow! That was fast. Thanks!
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    Not a problem. I looked but the link I had to a pdf of the TSB with the audio clip is dead. Let us know if you get your problem resolved. Have you contacted the dealer you purchased it from about this? I haven't heard of any 2.4's sludging up before.
  • Has anyone experienced any wind noise from their sunroff?

    Yhanks
  • Have you checked that the sunroof is completely in place... there may be a crack in the gasket.. When I have sunroof noise its becuase the sunroof hasnt fully close and sealed. Good luck
  • guudboiguudboi Posts: 1
    My Honda Accord 2008 Ex V6 Nav/PZEV was having issues and when I tried to figure out what was happening on my own, I discovered that there was no supply of electricity to the coils on Plug number 3 and 5 on the engine, I believe this is an electrical problem. I don't know if anybody can tell me the source of this problem.
  • I know I'm late to the party and the issue has been brought up many times, but I solved the dimming headlight issue with my 2008 EX-L four-cylinder. The problem was the small battery they use in the four. I bought a full-sized battery (had to also buy a new battery pan and hold-down bolts), hooked it up and now it only dims a little when the compressor kicks in (like everyone else's does).
  • isles1isles1 Posts: 110
    I have a 2010 Accord with rear brake pads that are all but gone after 13,000 miles (per my dealership). The dealer also said this is the first 2010 they have seen this on, and advised me about the Class Action lawsuit for the 2008 - 2009 Accords. Apparently there are many other 2010 Accords effected as well, but only a few VINs are covered by the Class Action Settlement. Does anyone have any information on possible reimbursement for rear brakes for 2010 Accords?

    The dealer wanted $169 to replace the pads. My plan is to have the pads replaced with Wagner ceramic pads by a private shop and then request reimbursement from Honda Customer Service. The private shop can replace the pads (and cut the rotors) for less than the dealership. Any thoughts?
  • catmikecatmike Posts: 35
    My 08 Accord EX L 4 CYL ... gets this fix tomorrow at 32 k.
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    Not sure about them reimbursing you if it's not done at the stealership, I never had to deal with the premature wear. I might of set a worlds record for most miles driven on a set of rear brakes on a 08 Accord = 43K. Just replaced them last month. My friends shop put ceramics and new rotors on for me. I don't like to gamble having them turned. Once I had them turned on a minivan and drove out to Colorado, and by the time we got back they were warped and had to be replaced. The less material that is there the easier it is for them to warp. For the rotors, pads, and a oil change with Mobil 1 ran me close to $300. Not the cheapest, but better than taking a chance on warped rotors. Maybe a anonymous call to Honda America could answer your question about reimbursement? :confuse:
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    I hope it resolves your problem!
  • catmikecatmike Posts: 35
    edited April 2011
    Thanks icyou812.....

    that TSB helped me understand the issue... my '08 EX L 4 cyl was repaired yesterday under the powertrain warranty. Car runs much smoother and with more power now. my car has 32k and is 37 1/2 "old".

    replaced rear brake pads too. dealer said there was no help with cost - bc car is outside of 3yrs/36k miles. called Honda Customer Svc and gave details; followup call and claims decision will come in 3 days.... put honda pads on, my svc writer claimed pads have been "improved" by honda.... we'll all see...... i cant believe that even one honda brake pad would have to be replaced before 55k. this is my third or fourth honda....
  • isles1isles1 Posts: 110
    I did not want to cut the rotors, but the repair shop said it need to be done. I hear you about the warping issue.

    As it stands now, I'm out about $160 to replace the pads, which is probably at least about $50 less than if I had the dealership do it ($169 plus tax, plus cut rotors). I sent in a fax to Honda Customer Service requesting reimursement, which stated I am aware of the class action, and that this is an on-going problem in to the 2010 model year. If no response, I'll threaten small claims court, and let them know I was contact by the law firm that handled the 08 & 09 rear brake settlement. ;)
  • welcome to Sgt Peppers lonely brakes Club Band.. I had enough.. Put in a while new brake system.. Car less than 25k.. Sure wasn't Oem Parts. Rotors, brakes, calipers, you name it... I could care less about 50 bucks.. My family's safety is more important.. What a difference. Honda and the service dept can kiss my butt. They know the system is bad.. They dont want to do a recall and I wont wait.. Best 800 dollars I ever spent.
  • isles1isles1 Posts: 110
    I received a call from Honda one business day after faxing in a request for reimbursement. They asked for proof of payment for the repairs, and approved reimbursement of $160.00 the same day I faxed that proof in. I am impressed with their customer service, but disappointed about the ongoing brake problems with the brand. Hopefully all is well with my Accord going forward.

    Thank you for the replies and feedback.
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    If those pads don't last any longer you might want to look into Raybestos. They are usually fairly expensive brake products, but are top quality. I feel fortunate to have gotten as many miles out of my OEM ones as I did.
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    I'm glad they covered it for you. It took a customer satisfaction survey from Honda America for my dealership to treat me better (for a little while). Hopefully they will get their act together on the brake issue. No matter what the brand, all vehicles seem to have some type of issue, some more serious than others. Years ago I used to be able to buy a car and drive the heck out of it and only do the basic maintenance to it. I haven't had that luxury for a long time. My 08 LX has had several annoying things to deal with but overall we still like it and love the slick shifting 5 speed manual.
  • rustumrustum Posts: 100
    When i turn the key as soon as i insert (cold condition), i hear some screeching noise behind the panel near VSA switch. I also updated hond service guy when i took the car for first service. We could not able to replicate the problem. Any one faced this problem during the winter. Though, this does not happen that much as of now.
  • I have that too.The minute I turn the key. its between screeching and grinding... According to Honda its normal and I have talked to other Honda owners who said the same thing.. May happen once a month
  • edk57edk57 Posts: 6
    It happens with me sometimes on my 2008 Accord V6 too. It sounds like the Battery is giving more electrical current than it should? Since it does not happens often I ignored it. Next time I take it for service, I will ask the tech rep.
  • 2004tsx2004tsx Posts: 13
    We have a 2010 Accord EX Sedan and the Rear vent temperature does not match the temp that is coming out of the front vents.

    With the temperature set at 80 in the front, the rear vent still blows cooler air.

    Has anyone experienced this.

    We brought the car in for service and they told us that we need to make sure that the recirculating button is set to internal only. This still didn't help and I am sure I will be back at the service counter.

    Any advice.

    Thanks
  • th83th83 Posts: 164
    I have a 2011 EX and had a 2010 EX before it but I never actually tested the rear console vents with warmer air. So I've never experienced the issue you're having.

    However, from what I understand, the floor vents and defrost vents should be the primary carriers of warm air (even the owner's manual mentions this). Heat rises, so the floor vents are the best method when heating the interior, and the defrost vents are meant to clear the windows of ice/fog. So I've always exclusively used the floor vents and defrost settings for the heater. And in addition to the rear console vents, the Accord still uses rear heating ducts under the front seats that are designed to route warm air to the aft portion of the cabin.

    My only guess is that maybe the rear vents weren't meant to carry warmer air and that all of the tubing running from the ventilation system to the rear console vents absorbs some of the heat en route to the back seat. But I don't know. Like I said, I've always used the floor heater ducts to warm the back seat.

    Besides, there couldn't be a problem with the rear ventilation as it doesn't use any extra components to re-cool or re-heat the air for the back seat passengers. It's just a pair of tubes routing air from the blower to the rear vents through the center console. As long as the vents carry cool air effectively, that's all that really matters in my opinion. Just use the floor ducts for heat.

    The rear vents have always just been a novelty to me, anyway. Even with the fan on full blast with Max A/C on, the airflow back there is mediocre at best. Still, I guess it's better than nothing for the rear passengers on really hot days.
  • rustumrustum Posts: 100
    michael2595 and edk57,
    Thanks for the feedback. It does happen once in a while and noise is negligible. May be, it needs cold weather to see the issue more often.
  • rustumrustum Posts: 100
    edited April 2011
    I have grinding noise problem for few months. It looks like coming from AC system. It happens when AC is on and when i stopped the car at stop signal. Honda service rep told me it is a normal behavior
    But for last 2 days, this noise becomes more audible and vibrations sent through steering. I started even hearing rattles some where inside the car. It does not happen continuously when at stop signal. Car keeps switching ac system on and off. It happens during those state changes. Any one observed this behavioral and get it fixed from Honda.
  • ron4400ron4400 Posts: 4
    update on oil consumption on I4. ended up using about a litre every 1000km. new engine on order today.
  • I only had one car with with an oddball noise with the ac on - it was a ford escort with a manual transmission. If you had it in neutral with the clutch engaged, you would get a rattling called 'gear rattle' or 'gear rollover noise'. The AC lowered the idle speed just enough to show the condition.

    The clutching in an out of the ac is normal on most cars, my 06 subaru in mild weather would clutch in and out every ten seconds or so sitting in a drive thru with the ac on a fairly low fan setting (auto climate control). And beside the ac clutch, they start the electric engine cooling fan at the same time.

    Only cars where the ac doesn't clutch in and out when on are ones that have a variable displacement compressor (my 2000 BMW did ).

    It really sounds like the idle speed of your car is right on the edge, with the ac on and if an automatic transmission vehicle - they idle them really low. If low enough you start to get the vibrations due to the engine getting close to stall speed. If you add just a touch of fuel with the accelerator while still on the brake, i bet it smooths out - indicating that due to emissions, etc it is just a very low idle speed. If you have a lot of miles on the car, sometimes cleaning the air bypass with carb cleaner helps. Had to do this every so ofton on a 97 v6 dodge spirit I owned.

    I have been behind a honda passport in the city, watching the exhaust pipe at the back shaking badly when stopped for a red light, which tells me the engine was generating a lot of vibes.

    Some cars it is the nature of the beast, for some slight shaking once in awhile, but if often, I would think either computer update, new air filter, clean idle bypass. Try dumping the computer memory and let it learn it's idle again after new air filter - had to do this on ford escort to get idle right after new air filter. Removed battery power for a bit, then reconnected, started, and held engine rpm's at 4k for bit.

    My 08 EX-L V6 accord doesn't have have this issue (yet)...
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Just picked up my brand new 2011 Accord EX-L V-6 6 spd. (no navi system) last nite. I love the car - the power and the solidity are great improvements over my 2004 (which was no slouch either).

    However, I've noticed that, even with the bass and/or the subwoofer settings boosted, there does not seem to be a very strong bass beat to the audio (CD) playback, as well as that adjustments to these settings seem to have only a minimal effect on the low range sound.

    Is this normal? I believe the radio may be less wattage than the one in my '04 Accord (also a V-6 EX-L 6 spd.), but it seems kinda gutless to me. I expected more from a 260 watt system.

    Any thoughts before I go back to the dealer with it?

    Thanks!

    -FS :shades:
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