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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Joe,

    My 04 4cyl Accord has a faint whine as does my 4cyl Tacoma pickup. Both have timing chains, not belts. Although I can't prove that the chain is the source of the noise, that's what I'm suspecting is causing the whine.

    Mrbill
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have an '05 4 cylinder with a manual trans. I purchased the car new and noticed the whine when I hit the interstate. I have always assumed that it was the gearing. It is a high pitched whine. I also have a timing chain.
  • hkmhkm Posts: 20
    I got a service reminder yesterday. Any one knows how much this B1 service costs for a 1 year old 2011 Accord with 17.5k mi on it.

    WHen I checked some forums online- the prices paid ranged from $67 to $489- this is the reason I ask.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Does your Accord manual state that you need to do this B1 service? Follow the manual's schedule and save your money. Dealers seem to dream up numerous unnecessary services that Honda doesn't require.

    Mrbill
  • carymattcarymatt Posts: 3
    Refer your dealer to TSB 10-080 (Creaking)

    My 2011 Accord EX-L Coupe at 14,500 miles developed a body flex noise that was driving me crazy. I have to take 12 left turns and 12 right turns a day going in and out of a six story parking deck, so at least 24 times a day that noise was grinding on my last nerves.

    I just got my Coupe back from the dealer today after they did the repairs listed under the TSB and the noise is finally GONE!
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Posts: 274
    What was the nature of the TSB? Does it effect only coupes?
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Okay, when last we left our superhero he ws dealing with package shelf and headliner rattles as well as poor gas mileage. Dealer has been very willing to listen and take a run at repairing squeaks and rattles. So far we've fixed the package shelf rattle (tied to some holding clamps related to the rear shelf). I also found that the cross-brace rods under the shelf make a metallic flex squeak unles they're fully inserted in their mounts. Best to shake them a little (gently) back and forth to work them in.

    However, I continue to have headliner noises above the passenger seat (dealer has stuffed felt tape in 1/2 a dozen different places - better each time but not a total elimination). My brake pedal still squeaks - they had fixed that by replacing the pistion assembly where it meets the master cylinder but it came back about 6000 miles later. This time they lubed it and it came back about 60 miles later but seems to have lessened a little since then.

    My last and latest problem is that I keep getting a "cush" sound from the rear of the car. Dealer is convinced it is related to rear package shelf assembly, but I stilll think its more suspension related. Whenever I go over a soft bump I hear a "cush" sound as the suspension travels and settles. Tends to happen most under 45 degrees outside - almost not at all above 50 degrees.

    Now my son tells me my cyclops light is out. I'm so freakin' tired of going to the dealer and I don't want to call Honda of America b/c all they'll do is dump on the dealer. Despite their limited success in fixing these problems, I do believe they are trying hard and don't want to cause problems for them or anger them.

    Any suggestions or ideas?

    -FS
  • carymattcarymatt Posts: 3
    http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65961

    Follow the above link for a copy of TSB 10-080. Affects all Accords -- Sedans and Coupes. There are five pages of places listed where your creaking may be coming from.

    PS: I spoke too soon. My creaking came back after being silent for two weeks, so my dealer agreed go over the car again.

    I still don't creak when going straight or on bumpy roads now. My creaking seems to be confined to right turns at speed (a 90% turn from one road onto another).

    It still seems to come from the same area a before, but before they did repairs I would also get the sound when making left turns, so I'm wondering if when they fixed one spot another is starting to flex.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    I get a click sound in my 2011 EX sedan 4 cyl. coming from the package shelf area. Will post up re where it is when I find it.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    Has anyone had the computer update re the cold starting issue done. This is suppose to correct valve timing and injector issues at cold start which Honda claims can cause the engine to burn excessive oil if not corrected. This is Service Bulletin 11-049.

    If so, have you noticed any change in performance, driveability or gas mileage?
  • badtrannybadtranny Posts: 33
    edited July 2012
    My LX-P needs new rubber. I guess for the first two years I was pretty happy with the Dunlop OEM 7000 series tires that came with the new car (215 60H 16"). But, I am hearing that a road hazard warranty isn't available for that tires replacement. I have used the warranty before on other brands of tires, and cars. It is a nice option for the money.

    Living in Connecticut, I need traction for rain and snow. And I would prefer a quiet tire, the Honda is noisy enough. I would love to have a tire that gets about 50k of good service too. The current tires have come up short. I will take part of the blame for not getting the tires rotated more often.

    Any brands, or models for this particular car that are proven performers? Keep in mind, I have to have the H rated tires since that is what is called out for. Why?? It isn't a Ferrari!!
  • guitar4himguitar4him Posts: 19
    I recently replaced OEM tires on my 2008 with Michelin Defender's. The OEM's had 56K and had gotten really noisy even though I had been meticulous about rotations and pressure. I think the OEM Dunlop tires are junk. The Michelin's are really quiet and are rated at 90K. Michelin includes some kind of road hazard coverage with those tires.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    It's very hard to combine the qualities of long-wear and good traction----the two concepts are somewhat contradictory.

    MODERATOR

  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    edited July 2012
    I put Goodyear Assurance Comfortreads on mine. The Dunlops are more responsive and corner like nobodies business, but they rode like a rock and were horribly noisy. I replaced them at 40k even though there was 4/32 left. The GY tires ride better and are quite a bit quieter, but there is only so much a tire can do for the Accord. It will always be a noisy car. As far as traction goes, they are good so far in the rain, acceptable in the snow, but I leave my car parked in the garage if there is much snow and take the 4X4. Dedicated snow tires would be the way to go. As far as mileage goes, they are supposed to be 80K tires I believe. I have 20K on them so far and are wearing fine. No road hazard warranty though. If you have a Costco you belong to, they have road hazard included on all tires they sell. Obtw, my gas mileage didn't drop or gain with these. Still managed 33mpg @ 75mph and the trunk stuffed full traveling to Colorado and back last month. For me, they are a good compromise. You will find there is no perfect tire, at least that has been my experience.
  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    Just bought a brand new Accord SE . Driving back home from the Dealership , i noticed a kind of major vibration/noise.

    It happens only when the car is in Drive Gear, with break pressed , and with the AC compressor running.
    If i switch off the AC compressor , this vibration/noise goes of.

    I can even reproduce the issue at home .

    Start the Car .
    Start the AC Fan,
    Put the car in D .. The Engine RPM goes down.
    Press the AC Button , the compressor starts .
    And the CAR/engine vibrates so much , that i get vibration sounds from even back of the Vehicle.
    Switch off the Compressor , and the vibration and sound stops.

    This vibration/noise wont come , if i don't put the car in D (i.e start the car and leave it in park , and switch on the compressor).

    Is it possible , that the engine is just so new (around 40 miles) ,and that's why engine is still not at its peak.

    Pls suggest..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Ah, I think I know the answer here. When you turn on the AC on just about any modern car, a switch is supposed to boost engine idle speed. So either this switch isn't working, OR your AC compressor is loose on its mounts.

    MODERATOR

  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    Thanks for the quick reply , and it really makes sense.

    I think the switch may be the issue , because if the compressor is loose the noise/vibration should come also when the car is in parking gear , not just D gear.

    Or my be the engine still needs some break in. I will go to the Dealer on the weekend.
  • ahqahq Posts: 37
    I drive a 2010 Accord LX. It has close to 25K miles and I've had it for 26 months now. The LX and SE share the same mechanicals, although there were some minor tweaks between 2010 and 2012.

    I've noticed some rather unrefined moans and groans coming from beneath the hood, in addition to some low level vibration (kind of a thrummy sound or feel) when the A/C is running, or when I turn the steering wheel while pulling my car out of a parking space at engine idle speed. The engine also surges a bit upon start-up. I think this is just the way the Accord is, at least the 4-cyl models.
  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    Just for information .. The RPM when my car is D , but brake pressed is around 650, when i switch on the Fan it jumps to 750 , but stays 750 when i switch on the AC , ie the actual compressor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Hmmm....well I don't know how that particular car's system is set up but I don't see any reason why merely switching on a fan should cause a rise in RPM--I wonder if the compressor WAS actually engaged at that time.

    It's possible that a loose compressor might only vibrate in gear and not at idle in Park. In any event, such vibration is way out of the ordinary and must be checked.

    MODERATOR

  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    This is my 4th Honda , I cant believe that the Honda quality has gone done by this much.
    Having these issues :
    1. Constant Grinding Noise coming from the engine ( Most Probably the Serpe Belt), the noise increases in the compartment , when the AC Fan is on.
    2. Single Knocking Sound ( as if something moves and hit some thing) when accelerate from stop.
    3.A weird sensation(happens randomly, like a jerk/or the accelerator depresses itself) in the accelerator pedal , while driving.
    4.AC Throwing out water off the Vent.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    edited September 2012
    I have had 84, 94, 2001, and 2009 Accords. My 2009 is an I-4 EX-L manual. What you describe as a grind, I call a whine. I have the same issue and I do not like the whine at all.

    On the phone, the service advisor said he needs to hear it. I told him I thought it is the power steering pump noise. He said it could be the timing chain. I will be very disappointed at Honda if it is the timing chain. Honda has been building this generation 2.4L engines since 2003 and the 2009 model has the issue??

    At 47K miles, the car also uses about half a quart of oil between the oil changes. The rest of the car is fine. The gas mileage was a very decent 34mpg on the last road trip.

    The seat comfort is not the best and year after year Honda has no intention of benchmarking other brands' seat comfort. I will wait and see what the 2013 Accord feels like. I also will consider the new Altima next time around.

    One thing about the Accord and Civic that no one can deny is their incredible resale value. Bought a new 2010 Civic LX-S manual for $16K, 18 months and 20K miles later, sold it for $15,500.

    Joe
  • Joe,

    My 04 I4 also has a whine to it, it's very faint and other people I mentioned the noise to don't notice it, but I can hear it. I've also suspected it's the timing chain since it's a similar noise to my I4 Toyota truck which also has a timing chain.

    I can live with the faint noise over the need to replace a costly timing belt.

    Mrbill
  • kikixokikixo Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2012 and I noticed that wierd sensation where it jerks during very low speeds. I thought I was just sensitive since I used to drive a 2000 Accord with transmission problems. I'm hoping this 2012 accord doesn't have a transmission problem either
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Does anyone know where the coolant bleed off screw is on this 2.4L engine? I appreciate an accurate answer. There is no screw around plastic thermostat housing, nor is there one in vacinity of metal piece that attached to the engine and upper radiator hose.

    Thank you,
    Joe
  • I know what you are talking about. I think the automatic transmission is programmed to shift into gear as quickly as possible. I tended to drive with the rpms as low as possible. My 12 accord shifts less jerky if you give it more gas and shift in the 2-3k range. After 3000 miles I think I have adjusted my driving style
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Don't think there is one. You bleed the system by running with a loose radiator cap at idle.

    MODERATOR

  • Brought my 2010 EX-L V6 in for the B12 service @ 29,200 miles. Once again (had this issue with my 2008) I'm told the rear pads (allegedly improved rear pads) need to be replaced. They said they would also turn the rotors. Why is this still an issue? My front pads were both @ 9MM and the rears were @ 4 & 3MM. I told them I would let some other repair shop profit from Honda's poor engineering. I was going to browse the showroom to check out the gen 9's but had to bad a taste in my mouth at the time. They did look nice from a distance. I can't believe that an entire 5 year generation run was produced with such a well documented design flaw.
  • ahqahq Posts: 37
    I have seven months left on my three-year lease on a 2010 Accord LX. It has close to 28K miles on it and I recently started to feel a very slight pulsation through the brake pedal during prolonged consistent brake pedal application (4-5 seconds), e.g. slowing down while driving downhill at freeway speeds. I'm on the fence on whether I'll buy the car and keep it for the long haul, but regardless of what I do, it looks like I'll probably have to get the car a brake job before the end of May.

    Anyhow, my understanding was that there was some sort of brake service campaign (or recall?) for the 2008, 2009 and early 2010 Accords. I looked up my car's VIN and it isn't covered under the campaign. I'm hoping that the rear pads are in good shape, but I guess I'm not too surprised that the front rotors may have to be turned at close to 30K miles.
  • I actually was able to get 43,000 miles before I replaced the rear pads on my '08 LX w/mt. Not sure how I got that lucky, perhaps it is because I use the engine to help brake by downshifting while coming to a stop. Letting a independent shop do them is probably the better choice, that's what I did. They put on Raybestos ceramic pads and replaced the rotors at the same time even though they weren't warped or damaged. I'm not sure how thick the rotors are on these, but most of them any more shouldn't be turned like the days of old when they made things to last. Take too much thickness away and they won't be able to dissipate heat and end up warping. I've put on another 23,000+ miles since with negligible wear on the pads so far. As an added bonus I have way less brake dust orange spots on my silver paint after a winter of driving here in the rust belt. I could eliminate it all if I would go ahead and put ceramics up front too. At any rate, ask for Raybestos brake parts, they are worth the extra cost!
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