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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I'm a firm beliver that the mi. minder don't work. I have 12k+ miles on my accord, my first oil change was at 4,500mi, when I checked my oil there was no oil on the stick.
    My minder read 60%. I'm on my third oil change now at 3,800 miles and I'm down 3/4 of a qt of oil and my minder reads 60%. You have to check the oil level, if you go by the minder you'll destroy your engine.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    The oil minder is not meant to tell you how much oil is in the engine. It is used to tell you when to change your oil. The oil level MUST BE checked with the dip stick.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    and they live among us. wow! i thought i had heard it all until i read about the person that thought the maintenance minder was for checking oil levels and not for when to change the oil. oh my!
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    Wow- What you say here does not make sense. So what you say is wait till the minder go to "0" even if your short 2 or 3 qts of oil because it says change your oil now. Oh my.
  • fosterphx1fosterphx1 Posts: 12
    As most of you know, Honda lost a class action suit relative to inferior rear brake pad life. My advice is to put on the best ceramic pads you can find and hope for the best. My garage warrants the pads for life so I only pay the labor charge. Ceramic will extend pad life, eliminate brake dust, and provide a very smooth stop (assuming you replace or resurface the rotors).
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Do not let the engine go to two or three quarts down. Check your oil with the dip stick. If it is at the add oil level, then add it. Don't go below a quart down.

    The oil minder advises you when to change your oil assuming you are not using any. If you use some oil between changes then top it up. The oil minder has nothing to do with the oil level.

    Why is your engine using so much oil?
  • I have the same issue, I don't know what to do either.
  • I looked up these postings back in 08 when it happened to mine the first couple times.

    Only thing I have found is to try and avoid rapidly flipping xm channels. Let each one stabilize and play for a few seconds, as I found when channel surfing, if I happened to change the channel when it was going in and out due to reception issues, the complete outage seemed more common.

    When it quits, you get the station and song information, but no audio. And the only way to fix it is to turn off the ignition. I read in a review about a Ford having similar issues occasionally, but they got lucky that Ford's design had the decoder get reset by turning the radio off and on.

    It pisses me off when it happens, and as you found, us owners are SOL.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Car was in for service today. The rattle had gotten much worse before I brought it in. They said there is a TSB out for it and that they tightened something that sounded like it was part of the underside of either the rear speaker or the rear package shelf. Haven't gotten the car back yet but I will post again if I have more info. or its not fixed. -FS :shades:
  • macsanmacsan Posts: 27
    Back in 08 I purchased a brand new Accord EX four cylinder. Several days after, I began hearing a rattle in the rear speaker deck area only when I went over a speed bump or backed out of our driveway which is on a hill. It was beginning to really get on my nerves. I went as far as getting my wife to back it out while I observed and listen in the trunk! I didn't find anything loose I could fix so I took it in to the dealer. Once there I took the service manager out with me so he could hear it. He believed me and not only that seemed to know what it was. He was very nice about it I have to admit. Anyway, they fixed it and it hasn't been a problem so far. There was no TSB on it that I knew of back then . I think he said it was a fastener that they retightened back near the rear deck.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Rattle was better for about 35-40 minutes and has since returned. So, I think they're on the right track, but it appears to be something that either was still tightened enough or which may be stripped.

    I also am still getting absolutely ZERO subwoofer response. Radio has "loosened up," so to speak, as several earlier posters suggested it should and I now have good range of audible change from +6 to -6 on the Bass and Treble adjustments. However, turning the Subwoofer adjustment from +6 to -6 produces absolutely no audible change in sound whatsoever, regardless of how the Bass or Treble are otherwise set (I've mixed and matched).

    I'm wondering if these two problems are related and what's vibrating in back is a broken piece of subwoofer. Thoughts?

    -FS :confuse:
  • This may be a bit far fetched but if your car was built overseas the radio was most likely installed here at the docks.. I had problems deluxe with my japanese built car to find out the car was never destined for America but got here.. I already had the amp installed in the back as per the requirements for the other country and they installed another one in front.when it got here. took weeks to figure it out. Again, just an example of what can happen when things get screwed up with points of delivery
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Interesting - I never knew that. But I don't think it matters in my case as my window sticker says final point of assembly was Marysville, Ohio and that my engine (but not my transmission) are U.S. sourced.
  • johngf1johngf1 Posts: 37
    Wondering if anyone has encountered "check gas cap" on their 2010 Accord Coupe. Car has 15,000 miles on the odometer. I always click the gas cap a few times and always turn off the engine when I refuel. Called dealer for appointment if the msg doesn't disappear after driving 30 50 miles. Are there any recalls or open issues? Thanks
  • Be thankful its just a gas cap or a stupid sensor.. By 15k miles I ripped out my whole brake system and installed a non OEM system after spending over 500 dollars with the dealer who told me I didnt know how to drive the car right.. I swear to god, anything more happens to my car and I will take it to the worst neighborhood in an adjoining city and leave the doors unlocked and the windows open while I take a cab to another foreign car dealer
  • This happened to me once after my wife filled up. I think she didn't get the cap on tight enough. I took off the cap, retightened it until it clicked and the light went out after driving for a while.
  • This is usually due to a vacuum leak, either at the cap seal (or not being tight enough) or in the evaporative emissions system---it could be as simple as a loose vacuum line.
  • pastatiepastatie Posts: 26
    Recently had the "new and improved" rear brake pads dealer installed because I was told the $150 from the class action suit would cover it---it did except for our state sales tax. The kicker was the service advisor promoted turning/cutting the rear rotors. If you have looked at yours lately they are maybe 3/8" thick. My rotors were not warped and the advisor quoted a price, are you ready, of $260 to do the rotors. I of course declined and the pads are seated and wearing properly as of this writing.
    I am searching for any information how to adjust the front headrests. Seriously they are the most uncomfortable headrests I have ever experienced, just look at them. If your neck doesn't break with a serious rear end collision you would be lucky. It almost looks like they should be pulled out and reversed to fit the curve of your neck. Any help here appreciated.
  • kendall8kendall8 Posts: 28
    What a HONDA SCAM. We will pay $150. BUT BEND YOU OVER ,and make you PAY for something you dont need. WIN WIN FOR HONDA. I had same crap happen to me at SOUTH SHORE HONDA ON LONG ISLAND...I have had 7 HONDAS .......NO MORE...IT was my fault back brakes went at 15k, SURE SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A SONATA .. HONDA loosing its touch. ITS like an AMERICAN car company NOW
  • welcome to the you just got ripped off club... my rotors were so bad at 5k miles they were turned.. I typically pay for my other car 50 dollars for 2.. My price for the Honda just short of your price.. Reminder, most service writers are salespeople.. I ended up ripping up my whole break system from rotors to calipers around 15 k and a mechanic who did not use OEM.. Now its perfect and I dont have to worry about my wife and child killing themselves becuase Honda uses toilet paper for brake parts.. Go to a local mechanic if you are out of warranty... Hondas arent that difficult to fix nor maintain and you will save a bundle. By the way .. I am 57 and I was told by the punk service write that apparently I didnt know how to drive the car.. Thats why the brakes and rotors wore out.. Thank god I didnt have my pocket flame thrower with me.. I did ask him If he could recommend a good driving school.. I have no problem at all with the headrests.. May be a mechanical issue. Are you under warranty.. If so make sure you speak with the manager first to make sure they are covered
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