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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair



  • michael2595michael2595 Posts: 72
    edited August 2011
    arent Hondas assembled here? I have thought about the Hundai but the reviews havent been great and they dont have as long a track record. I love my subaru.... Not a problem .. Had it since 96 with very low mileage.. Also have a mercedes diesel, 1986 with 600,000 miles on it... Original muffler... just change the oil every 3,000 and the timing CHAIN ever 120,000 and its great.

    I would take a look at the jetta diesel or the VWsportwagon diesel.. will last forever and real fun to drive.
  • I had my bad brake pads replaced with the new ones under the class action suit. I have a 2008 EXLV6. No more problems and no unscrupulous service department. They were extremely apologetic for the problem and promised the new ones should last at least 40K miles. No attempt at selling me something I didn't need. Go to another dealer post haste! There are bad dealerships for all brands of cars. The premature wear thing was unfortunate but it sure beats some of the life threatening problems that have occurred with other brands. I will still consider a Honda next time.
  • I had some honda issues too but got them fixed to my satisfaction by taking my honda to a different dealership. Perhaps you ought to try that too.

    The dealership where I bought my Honda tried many times to make me pay for things I felt were not needed nor wanted. I took my car to a different dealership and they treated me with more respect, didn't try to add crap I didn't need, and appreciated my business.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    edited August 2011
    You are indeed a patient man. In 2001 a local Nissan dealer had to replace the transmission in my 1999 Nissan Maxima 5 spd.. When they re-connected the shifter, they did a sloppy job of tightening and the stick had about 4" of play in it while it was in gear. I drove right back to the dealership, only to have a 19 year old service writer tell me that I didn't know how to drive stickshift.

    I asked to see his manager, who came right over and said the same thing. I then asked both of them if their health insurance was fully paid. When they looked at me dumbfounded, I added "because I've been driving stickshift for almost 30 years - longer than EITHER of you have been alive - and the next one of you that tells me I don't know how to drive my car is going to need all the health coverage he can muster."

    That got the head of the service department out PDQ.

    He had them take the boot off the linkage where they found that, sure enough, they had failed to properly connect two of the linkage rods. A couple of turns of the wrench and I was good to go.

    The dealership then told me to never bring my car there again.

    As if....! (lol)

    -FS ;)
  • too funny... me patient? One word... Xanax

    I once said at a dealership to a 12 year old salesman, i mean service writer that I was so pissed off at, If I only had a flamethrower ,( A quote from the movie scent of a woman).. The cops were called... They knew me and we had a joke about it.

    Have a prosperous day.
  • My 2009 Accord EXL-V6 has been consuming oil at a rate of 1 qt every 4,000 miles. I'm going in for my 2nd oil change this week with my odometer at 16,500 miles and the car is 24 mos. old. I just had my spark plug #3 fail last week. I forgot to have the service technician show me the bad plug but I have a hunch it was fouled from oil in the combustion chamber. In researching fouled plugs for late model Accords it seemed like most were happening in the 30-40,000 mile range or in the 70-80,000 mile range. A friend of mine who is an expert in auto mechanics thinks it's possible the cylinder walls were not properly scored on my engine and that my oil consumption is due to oil making it past the rings into the combustion chamber and thus fouling 1 spark plug so far. Do you agree with his diagnosis or do you have an alternative explaination?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I rather doubt that diagnosis, as the amount of oil entering the combustion chamber would be abundant and your car would look like it worked for the mosquito abatement bureau.

    If, in fact, your plugs are fouling from oil burning (which isn't necessarily a slam-dunk conclusion since they would foul much faster than 4K miles in my opinion). then the oil intrusion would be more likely to come from defective valve stem seals or worn valve guides.

    A cylinder leakdown test would reveal all here--no need to be guessing. Compressed air is fed into each cylinder through a device that looks like a spark plug but is actually an entry valve for the compressed air. Then the technician measures the rate of leakage of the compressed air in the cylinder. if he's clever, he can also listen for escaping air through the air filter or engine intake (that would be valve guides) or the tailpipe (that would be cylinder rings) -- although the rate of escape might be too subtle for that perception.

    If the cylinder leakdown shows no defect, then your plug fouling might be due to improper fuel mixture or the wrong spark plug installed or the fuel being used. You should double-check that all that is in order.

    As for the consumption itself, one quart every 4,000 is quite normal and no cause for worry----but the plug fouling is a cause for worry and should be investigated.


  • dilt1dilt1 Posts: 11
    If you head over to the VCM post. Print out the service bulletins, present them to you service adviser and get them installed.

    for those suffering with engine and oil consumption issues, please take a look at the following two links for service bulletins 10-033 and 11-033.

    I had the same problems with my 2010 V6 and the oil consumption seems to have abated with no noticeable consumption noted over the last 2000 miles.

    Insist the appropriate service bulletin(s) are installed in your vehicle. Print out the bulletins and take them with you. Hard to argue when you have the documentation in hand.
  • I had TSB A10-033 performed last week when the plug was changed out. I will request TSB A11-033 be performed tomorrow night when my oil is changed. When I mentioned my post in this blog to my automotive consultant, he also added that if the "scraper ring" on the piston was doing it's job the only other way for oil to enter the combustion chamber was by faulty valve stem seals as Mr. Shiftright mentioned above. Thanks for all of your excellent feedback. My regular grade gasoline is always purchased at the same BP/Amoco station. Should I consider switching brands? If so, what is recommended?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I read the TSBs and the first one about plug fouling may be worth doing but the second one seems to suggest an oil consumption issue way worse than yours, so possibly not related to your problem.


  • I seem to remember a BMW analysis of various brands of gas and the brands they listed in tier 1, the top tier were Shell, Exxon and Mobil.
  • dilt1dilt1 Posts: 11
    I think I disagree with you Mr. Shiftright...(with all due respect)......11-033 is an amendment to 10-033 as told to me by Honda - note the same 033 suffix. Indeed, the Valve Pause System may indeed be the problem that caused (or contributed) the plug fowling detailed in 10-033.

    In my case, the car continued to enjoy oil for about 850 miles after the updates and then flat out stopped. The service adviser noted this was the second vehicle that took a few miles after the update to quiet down oil consumption.

    In 11-033 note the "Vehicles Affected" and it's all 2008+ Accords. My humble opinion would be to get the update installed.

    As with everything else......your mileage may vary.

    And I do hope the complexity of VCM will vanish in the future. Not worth the headaches IMHO and it sure has the potential of tarnishing a great reputation (Honda).
  • I've had no plug fouling issues in my 2008 EX-L V6 which I traded with 35,000 miles for a 2010 EX-L V6. The 2010 hasn't experienced any plug fouling but both cars go thru about a quart every 4-6,000 miles. Not enough oil in my opinion to have someone, even under a TSB, start tearing apart an engine that is performing fine in all areas of acceleration and economy.
  • 2 different sounds, coming from dashboard. One from middle vents (sounds like golf balls rolling on wood floor) Other from pasanger side, more of a squeaking, from glove compartment ...
  • pgm17pgm17 Posts: 46
    If anyone has any luck locating the above please advise. Thanks!
  • If it is still under warranty park it in the dealership and start talking about lemon laws and or call the regional manager for Honda and get him involved..
  • pgm17pgm17 Posts: 46
    The dealer is fixing it but had to special order the part. I just wanted to see the PDF of 10-046 to see what they were going to do.
  • pgm17pgm17 Posts: 46
    Never mind. Located it at driveaccord.netThanks
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    Hi, I was hoping to get some advice. I had a backing up run-in with a curb, which unfortunately was a bit too high to clear my undercarriage and strike just my tires. The only thing struck was the curved part of the exhaust pipe as it exits the muffer going towards the front of the car (for some unlucky reason that seems to hang a tad lower than the muffler proper, which went right over the curb and wasn't damaged by it ... unfortunately though the muffler, exhaust pipe and resonator are a long one-piece affair on this car going all the way up to the catalytic converter, and are not separable parts). The pipe was pinched between the curb and the metal on the other side of the pipe, with the result that the diameter or lumen of the pipe is now significantly constricted (there is no complete blockage though) on both sides, as compared to the normal diameter pipe leading into and out of the constricted section.

    In the aftermath, the car still seems to run ok, and it doesn't sound any louder (the pipe wasn't punctured in any way, just compressed), and what appears to be a normal stream of exhaust continues to come out of the muffler. I imagine though that this can't be good for the car - for one thing the pipe will likely be subject to swifter rusting, gas mileage may suffer, and I am worried about long term deleterious effects to the engine or whatever is upstream from the constriction due to increased back pressure of hot gases, so I think I should probably get it fixed and will probably make an appointment for later in the week at the dealer to do so.

    Here are my questions: is my only realistic option to purchase a new muffler/exhaust pipe, or is there any way the dealer can somehow restore the pipe to its original size? I can't particularly imagine how that could be achieved expect maybe if the pipe were severed near the constriction and somehow the constricted piece was hammered outward before re-welding. If that is a possibility, would it be any cheaper/better of an option than simply replacing the whole thing?

    Assuming that I need to replace the entire muffler/exhaust part, how much should this job cost me? The Honda e-store at the Official Honda Owner-Link site sells this part for $434 list price, and implies that it can be picked up at any dealer - if so, is that around what the dealer will charge me for the part itself if he installs it as well? What about the labor charge for replacement? The replacement doesn't seem like a big deal or a lengthy job to me (but then I'm not a mechanic) - everything seems to be visible once you put the car on a lift, and it would appear to be only a brief matter in swapping the old for the new. All of the hangers, fasteners and whatnots there now were not damaged and I assume can be re-used, so I believe I'm probably just looking at a charge for the one part and the labor to put it in.

    I would welcome and appreciate any thoughts/opinions about this predicament. Thanks.

    PS> Is there a better option than replacing this with an official Honda part ... such as with an all-stainless steel part? If that's a better option, what might it likely cost? Thanks.
  • Dealerships usually are not well equipped to work on exhaust systems. If you think the system could be repaired, I would try a muffler shop. They have specific equipment to bend/cut/expand and weld pipes. Many of them do custom stainless systems as well as vintage cars where the systems have to be custom made. They may be able to repair whatever damage your car has.

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