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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 815
    Joe,

    My 04 4cyl Accord has a faint whine as does my 4cyl Tacoma pickup. Both have timing chains, not belts. Although I can't prove that the chain is the source of the noise, that's what I'm suspecting is causing the whine.

    Mrbill
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    I have an '05 4 cylinder with a manual trans. I purchased the car new and noticed the whine when I hit the interstate. I have always assumed that it was the gearing. It is a high pitched whine. I also have a timing chain.
  • hkmhkm Posts: 20
    I got a service reminder yesterday. Any one knows how much this B1 service costs for a 1 year old 2011 Accord with 17.5k mi on it.

    WHen I checked some forums online- the prices paid ranged from $67 to $489- this is the reason I ask.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 815
    Does your Accord manual state that you need to do this B1 service? Follow the manual's schedule and save your money. Dealers seem to dream up numerous unnecessary services that Honda doesn't require.

    Mrbill
  • carymattcarymatt Posts: 3
    Refer your dealer to TSB 10-080 (Creaking)

    My 2011 Accord EX-L Coupe at 14,500 miles developed a body flex noise that was driving me crazy. I have to take 12 left turns and 12 right turns a day going in and out of a six story parking deck, so at least 24 times a day that noise was grinding on my last nerves.

    I just got my Coupe back from the dealer today after they did the repairs listed under the TSB and the noise is finally GONE!
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Posts: 273
    What was the nature of the TSB? Does it effect only coupes?
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Okay, when last we left our superhero he ws dealing with package shelf and headliner rattles as well as poor gas mileage. Dealer has been very willing to listen and take a run at repairing squeaks and rattles. So far we've fixed the package shelf rattle (tied to some holding clamps related to the rear shelf). I also found that the cross-brace rods under the shelf make a metallic flex squeak unles they're fully inserted in their mounts. Best to shake them a little (gently) back and forth to work them in.

    However, I continue to have headliner noises above the passenger seat (dealer has stuffed felt tape in 1/2 a dozen different places - better each time but not a total elimination). My brake pedal still squeaks - they had fixed that by replacing the pistion assembly where it meets the master cylinder but it came back about 6000 miles later. This time they lubed it and it came back about 60 miles later but seems to have lessened a little since then.

    My last and latest problem is that I keep getting a "cush" sound from the rear of the car. Dealer is convinced it is related to rear package shelf assembly, but I stilll think its more suspension related. Whenever I go over a soft bump I hear a "cush" sound as the suspension travels and settles. Tends to happen most under 45 degrees outside - almost not at all above 50 degrees.

    Now my son tells me my cyclops light is out. I'm so freakin' tired of going to the dealer and I don't want to call Honda of America b/c all they'll do is dump on the dealer. Despite their limited success in fixing these problems, I do believe they are trying hard and don't want to cause problems for them or anger them.

    Any suggestions or ideas?

    -FS
  • carymattcarymatt Posts: 3
    http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65961

    Follow the above link for a copy of TSB 10-080. Affects all Accords -- Sedans and Coupes. There are five pages of places listed where your creaking may be coming from.

    PS: I spoke too soon. My creaking came back after being silent for two weeks, so my dealer agreed go over the car again.

    I still don't creak when going straight or on bumpy roads now. My creaking seems to be confined to right turns at speed (a 90% turn from one road onto another).

    It still seems to come from the same area a before, but before they did repairs I would also get the sound when making left turns, so I'm wondering if when they fixed one spot another is starting to flex.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    I get a click sound in my 2011 EX sedan 4 cyl. coming from the package shelf area. Will post up re where it is when I find it.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    Has anyone had the computer update re the cold starting issue done. This is suppose to correct valve timing and injector issues at cold start which Honda claims can cause the engine to burn excessive oil if not corrected. This is Service Bulletin 11-049.

    If so, have you noticed any change in performance, driveability or gas mileage?
  • badtrannybadtranny Posts: 33
    edited July 2012
    My LX-P needs new rubber. I guess for the first two years I was pretty happy with the Dunlop OEM 7000 series tires that came with the new car (215 60H 16"). But, I am hearing that a road hazard warranty isn't available for that tires replacement. I have used the warranty before on other brands of tires, and cars. It is a nice option for the money.

    Living in Connecticut, I need traction for rain and snow. And I would prefer a quiet tire, the Honda is noisy enough. I would love to have a tire that gets about 50k of good service too. The current tires have come up short. I will take part of the blame for not getting the tires rotated more often.

    Any brands, or models for this particular car that are proven performers? Keep in mind, I have to have the H rated tires since that is what is called out for. Why?? It isn't a Ferrari!!
  • guitar4himguitar4him Posts: 19
    I recently replaced OEM tires on my 2008 with Michelin Defender's. The OEM's had 56K and had gotten really noisy even though I had been meticulous about rotations and pressure. I think the OEM Dunlop tires are junk. The Michelin's are really quiet and are rated at 90K. Michelin includes some kind of road hazard coverage with those tires.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,692
    It's very hard to combine the qualities of long-wear and good traction----the two concepts are somewhat contradictory.
  • icyou812icyou812 Posts: 77
    edited July 2012
    I put Goodyear Assurance Comfortreads on mine. The Dunlops are more responsive and corner like nobodies business, but they rode like a rock and were horribly noisy. I replaced them at 40k even though there was 4/32 left. The GY tires ride better and are quite a bit quieter, but there is only so much a tire can do for the Accord. It will always be a noisy car. As far as traction goes, they are good so far in the rain, acceptable in the snow, but I leave my car parked in the garage if there is much snow and take the 4X4. Dedicated snow tires would be the way to go. As far as mileage goes, they are supposed to be 80K tires I believe. I have 20K on them so far and are wearing fine. No road hazard warranty though. If you have a Costco you belong to, they have road hazard included on all tires they sell. Obtw, my gas mileage didn't drop or gain with these. Still managed 33mpg @ 75mph and the trunk stuffed full traveling to Colorado and back last month. For me, they are a good compromise. You will find there is no perfect tire, at least that has been my experience.
  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    Just bought a brand new Accord SE . Driving back home from the Dealership , i noticed a kind of major vibration/noise.

    It happens only when the car is in Drive Gear, with break pressed , and with the AC compressor running.
    If i switch off the AC compressor , this vibration/noise goes of.

    I can even reproduce the issue at home .

    Start the Car .
    Start the AC Fan,
    Put the car in D .. The Engine RPM goes down.
    Press the AC Button , the compressor starts .
    And the CAR/engine vibrates so much , that i get vibration sounds from even back of the Vehicle.
    Switch off the Compressor , and the vibration and sound stops.

    This vibration/noise wont come , if i don't put the car in D (i.e start the car and leave it in park , and switch on the compressor).

    Is it possible , that the engine is just so new (around 40 miles) ,and that's why engine is still not at its peak.

    Pls suggest..
  • Ah, I think I know the answer here. When you turn on the AC on just about any modern car, a switch is supposed to boost engine idle speed. So either this switch isn't working, OR your AC compressor is loose on its mounts.
  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    Thanks for the quick reply , and it really makes sense.

    I think the switch may be the issue , because if the compressor is loose the noise/vibration should come also when the car is in parking gear , not just D gear.

    Or my be the engine still needs some break in. I will go to the Dealer on the weekend.
  • ahqahq Posts: 37
    I drive a 2010 Accord LX. It has close to 25K miles and I've had it for 26 months now. The LX and SE share the same mechanicals, although there were some minor tweaks between 2010 and 2012.

    I've noticed some rather unrefined moans and groans coming from beneath the hood, in addition to some low level vibration (kind of a thrummy sound or feel) when the A/C is running, or when I turn the steering wheel while pulling my car out of a parking space at engine idle speed. The engine also surges a bit upon start-up. I think this is just the way the Accord is, at least the 4-cyl models.
  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    Just for information .. The RPM when my car is D , but brake pressed is around 650, when i switch on the Fan it jumps to 750 , but stays 750 when i switch on the AC , ie the actual compressor.
  • Hmmm....well I don't know how that particular car's system is set up but I don't see any reason why merely switching on a fan should cause a rise in RPM--I wonder if the compressor WAS actually engaged at that time.

    It's possible that a loose compressor might only vibrate in gear and not at idle in Park. In any event, such vibration is way out of the ordinary and must be checked.
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