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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sidbsidb Posts: 26
    This is my 4th Honda , I cant believe that the Honda quality has gone done by this much.
    Having these issues :
    1. Constant Grinding Noise coming from the engine ( Most Probably the Serpe Belt), the noise increases in the compartment , when the AC Fan is on.
    2. Single Knocking Sound ( as if something moves and hit some thing) when accelerate from stop.
    3.A weird sensation(happens randomly, like a jerk/or the accelerator depresses itself) in the accelerator pedal , while driving.
    4.AC Throwing out water off the Vent.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    edited September 2012
    I have had 84, 94, 2001, and 2009 Accords. My 2009 is an I-4 EX-L manual. What you describe as a grind, I call a whine. I have the same issue and I do not like the whine at all.

    On the phone, the service advisor said he needs to hear it. I told him I thought it is the power steering pump noise. He said it could be the timing chain. I will be very disappointed at Honda if it is the timing chain. Honda has been building this generation 2.4L engines since 2003 and the 2009 model has the issue??

    At 47K miles, the car also uses about half a quart of oil between the oil changes. The rest of the car is fine. The gas mileage was a very decent 34mpg on the last road trip.

    The seat comfort is not the best and year after year Honda has no intention of benchmarking other brands' seat comfort. I will wait and see what the 2013 Accord feels like. I also will consider the new Altima next time around.

    One thing about the Accord and Civic that no one can deny is their incredible resale value. Bought a new 2010 Civic LX-S manual for $16K, 18 months and 20K miles later, sold it for $15,500.

    Joe
  • Joe,

    My 04 I4 also has a whine to it, it's very faint and other people I mentioned the noise to don't notice it, but I can hear it. I've also suspected it's the timing chain since it's a similar noise to my I4 Toyota truck which also has a timing chain.

    I can live with the faint noise over the need to replace a costly timing belt.

    Mrbill
  • kikixokikixo Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2012 and I noticed that wierd sensation where it jerks during very low speeds. I thought I was just sensitive since I used to drive a 2000 Accord with transmission problems. I'm hoping this 2012 accord doesn't have a transmission problem either
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Does anyone know where the coolant bleed off screw is on this 2.4L engine? I appreciate an accurate answer. There is no screw around plastic thermostat housing, nor is there one in vacinity of metal piece that attached to the engine and upper radiator hose.

    Thank you,
    Joe
  • I know what you are talking about. I think the automatic transmission is programmed to shift into gear as quickly as possible. I tended to drive with the rpms as low as possible. My 12 accord shifts less jerky if you give it more gas and shift in the 2-3k range. After 3000 miles I think I have adjusted my driving style
  • Don't think there is one. You bleed the system by running with a loose radiator cap at idle.
  • Brought my 2010 EX-L V6 in for the B12 service @ 29,200 miles. Once again (had this issue with my 2008) I'm told the rear pads (allegedly improved rear pads) need to be replaced. They said they would also turn the rotors. Why is this still an issue? My front pads were both @ 9MM and the rears were @ 4 & 3MM. I told them I would let some other repair shop profit from Honda's poor engineering. I was going to browse the showroom to check out the gen 9's but had to bad a taste in my mouth at the time. They did look nice from a distance. I can't believe that an entire 5 year generation run was produced with such a well documented design flaw.
  • ahqahq Posts: 37
    I have seven months left on my three-year lease on a 2010 Accord LX. It has close to 28K miles on it and I recently started to feel a very slight pulsation through the brake pedal during prolonged consistent brake pedal application (4-5 seconds), e.g. slowing down while driving downhill at freeway speeds. I'm on the fence on whether I'll buy the car and keep it for the long haul, but regardless of what I do, it looks like I'll probably have to get the car a brake job before the end of May.

    Anyhow, my understanding was that there was some sort of brake service campaign (or recall?) for the 2008, 2009 and early 2010 Accords. I looked up my car's VIN and it isn't covered under the campaign. I'm hoping that the rear pads are in good shape, but I guess I'm not too surprised that the front rotors may have to be turned at close to 30K miles.
  • I actually was able to get 43,000 miles before I replaced the rear pads on my '08 LX w/mt. Not sure how I got that lucky, perhaps it is because I use the engine to help brake by downshifting while coming to a stop. Letting a independent shop do them is probably the better choice, that's what I did. They put on Raybestos ceramic pads and replaced the rotors at the same time even though they weren't warped or damaged. I'm not sure how thick the rotors are on these, but most of them any more shouldn't be turned like the days of old when they made things to last. Take too much thickness away and they won't be able to dissipate heat and end up warping. I've put on another 23,000+ miles since with negligible wear on the pads so far. As an added bonus I have way less brake dust orange spots on my silver paint after a winter of driving here in the rust belt. I could eliminate it all if I would go ahead and put ceramics up front too. At any rate, ask for Raybestos brake parts, they are worth the extra cost!
  • 2hondaguy2hondaguy Posts: 14
    edited November 2012
    Still driving my 2008 EXL-V6. Original tires replaced at 50,000 miles. Rear brakes replaced at 49,000, and still drving on original front brakes with 61,000 miles. I am what i call light on the brakes. Hit on the Honda Rep, mention the previous class action law suit regarding brakes. maybe you can get them to help pay for some of the brake job. Keep receipts if they don't help. There could always be another class action suit against Honda.

    When my rears were replaced i was told that there were "clips" installed to help keep the pads away from the rotors. This was the fix according to my Honda mechanic who knows his business. OEM pads were used which i believe are ceramic. Rotors were not turned.

    Good luck with the brakes. Other than this issue i still think you are driving one of the best cars for the money on the market.
  • I'm not going to let this singular issue tarnish my general impression of the car. I agree that the Accord is still one of the best cars going. I just have an issue with handing money over to Honda for an issue that's been ongoing since the release of the gen 8's. My brother owns an auto repair shop and has quoted me $264 for new rotors and ceramic pads. I'll get it done next week and that should hold me until I get my 2014 or 2015 Accord Touring model. I hope they keep the Touring addition around that long, checked out a few and they are really sweet.
  • Considering the hundreds of complaints on the internet about the front seats in the 08 to 12 Accords being very uncomfortable, I was wondering if anyone has received any satisfaction from Honda re this issue! My wife owns a 2011 and the seats are very hard and will cause back pain. Did not realize how bad they were until we took a long trip recently.

    Thanks
  • I doubt Honda would ever admit there ever has been an issue with their seats. You could ask in the seats thread: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f194d64/210!make=Honda&model=Accord&ed_ma- keindex=.f194d64 . I didn't take a long enough test drive and found out the next day after buying mine how painful they are. In the seats thread you will find instructions from people that have disabled their active head restraints and that has helped. My wife doesn't have any problems with the seats so doing anything drastic is out. I finally bought a $60+ Tempurpedic lumbar support pillow and it has helped quite a bit. Instead of putting the curved surface facing my back, I have the flat surface towards it. It takes up the space from the seat bottom to the spot where the active head restraint bar hits me in the back. Now that cold weather is here the memory foam is a brick and I need to thaw it out holding it up to the vents with the heat blasting. I have read how people have just given up and traded for something else. My car is paid for and I don't want another car payment, so I just deal with it. Fortunately I have another car and a pickup that don't kill my back, so my wife can drive our 08 since her back doesn't mind it.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    What do you think? Should I buy a brand new 2012 ? My 2001 Accord has no rust, drives like a dream, and has 125,000 miles. The original front brakes lasted 75,000 miles, and the original rear brakes are still in place (I often use the manual transmission to lower the speed though).

    On one side the car is old (time wise), has no side airbags, and might need some repairs soon. On the other side it was unbelievably reliable (almost no repairs in 12 years), babied, dealer maintained, rustproofed, etc.

    Am I looking for trouble ? My 2001 looks willing to go for longtime. Any advice ?
  • Don't do it. Honda has become a marketing based company - abandoning their prior focus on pure engineering. I have a 2011 EXL V-6 Coupe (Manual) with 36000 miles and I hate it. Tons of rattles and noises (dealer's been great but it persists)- car is geared way too short yet gets crappy mileage (averaging 23 mpg on 90 percent hwy commute-my 2004 V-6 Coupoe avgd 27 on same cycle). Just not happy and, as nice as the new ones look, Motor Trend said "you'll never have any fun in it."

    Keep your old one or go look at another brand. I've been a Honda loyalist since my first car in 1991 but this will be my last and I'm gonna get out of it as early as I can.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Your manual V6 is a 6-speed, not 5-speed, right ? The new 2013 manual Accord is 6-speed too. This terrifies me, and is the only reason for thinking at trading (and getting one of the last 5-speeds (2012)). Did it ever occur to you to mix the 6th speed with R (reverse) ?

    For instance, when switching from 5th to 6th, could you put it in R (by mistake, because you pushed too much to the right ) ? Or when switching from 4th to 5th, could you push too much to the right, and reach the R level ? I always loved my 5-speed setup (the double-H layout).

    I really love my manual 4cyl 2001, and would like to keep it.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Also, if you are still here, I don't know why you say:
    "car is geared way too short YET gets crappy mileage ".

    Cars geared short, keep the engine at higher RPM at a certain car speed, so always get crappy mileage. To save gas, the idea is to have the engine at the lowest possible RPM. Probably they wanted it sporty. Which is childish. You can always downshift if you want to waste gas, and pollute the planet.

    What is your RPM at 75 miles/hour ?
  • I'd say keep your old car. Are the repairs it will need just normal wear and tear items? A few repairs are a lot cheaper than a new car. There have been a few times I sold a car to only regret it later. I have an 08 LX with a 5spd. manual tranny. I had problems with it grinding and popping out of 3rd gear. Problem solved with BG Syncroshift 2 gear lube. Best shifting manual I've ever owned. It would take a little getting used to driving a 6 speed. As to having a car geared "short", I have a 01 Nissan Sentra SE with a very gutsy 2.0 and 5 speed manual. It turns 3750rpm at 70mph on interstate, but will still get a respectable 31mpg. Sporty - yes. Childish? I guess that's a matter of opinion. I like having torque right then and now when I go to merge on interstate and if I want to pass on the highway I don't have to bother to downshift. It did take me a while after I bought it to get used to the hum of the motor, I kept thinking I needed to shift up even though I was already in fifth. I bet if it was geared like my Accord it would get upper 30's. If polluting the planet is a major concern for you, a new Accord probably has less emissions than your 01. I think they have cleaned up the emissions quite a bit. As for me, I'm on the fence whether I would buy another Accord. The third gear issue and the way the dealer treated me, door seals shrinking and pulling out, squeaky glove box door were bad enough. The worst part has been the back pain from the seats. I would advise you to rent one and take it for an extended drive to see if you like it or not. Good luck whichever road you pursue!
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Thanks icyou812, that's actually very good advice. The back pain would be a major problem for my wife. Me too I dislike dealing with car dealers. That's why I kept my previous car (Volvo 240 wagon) till 18 yrs old. I traded it for $20. It's very likely I will keep this 2001 Accord for 18 years too. So I would have to step into a car showroom just once more, 6 years from now (for the rest of my life). This looks good.

    About your car, popping out of the 3rd gear, this looks like a major safety concern to me.

    About my 2001 Accord, it requires no repairs of any kind right now. It actually drives like a dream. They offered me $1,000 for it (?!?!?!).

    Thanks again
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