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VIN check

2456715

Comments

  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    "I just had a full body and restoration job completed". On this car, what exactly does that mean? A new paint job?
    Realistically, without seeing the car and knowing more of it's history, it may be worth $3K up to about $8K in todays market. Go over to Ebay and do a search on mercedes 450sl and you'll see lots of real nice ones in that range. It's a narrow niche market for these cars.
    If it comes from the rust belt I wouldn't have anything to do with it myself.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    These W107s are all over the map in pricing. Most clean ones I see seem to actually sell in the $8K-10K range. Sometimes you will see a drop-dead stunning original car sell up to $15K. An earlier version of the 450SL with the slim chrome bumpers would be worth more, as would the later 560SL version of this car.

    If indeed the car were professionally restored, be prepared to take a huge beating financially, sad to say. This is not a car one can restore to a high standard and ever come out whole on.

    Given today's market and the car's appetite for fuel, don't turn down a good offer.
  • kingzonkkingzonk Posts: 4
    Approx. 5 years ago I bought what I thought was a 66 GTO. Today July 4, 2009, a guy came by looking to buy it and pointed out several items that really ticked me off.

    1. The proper GTO emblems on the outside of the car are not correct (they say "custom"). :mad:
    2. A close look at the GTO grill indicate it"IS" real. :confuse:
    3. The headless rusted out engine block is a 326 NOT the 400 I thought it was. :cry:
    Conclusion: Someone changed the grill etc. to the GTO look but the dang car is a Le Mans! This is the VIN 235176B139151 Do I need to research more? Can anyone confirm my conclusion?Looking again I found a 326 emblem in the trunk.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    You need go no further than the VIN. It should start with 242.
    By the way, the statute of limitations on FRAUD only starts ticking at the moment of discovery. So you could sue the seller.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Unfortunately this happens all to often. The guy across the street from me bought what he was told was a 67 Mustang GT500 only to find out later that it was a 67 fastback that had been doctored up to look like a GT, and was only worth a pittance compared to what he paid for it. He admitted that he bought it on impulse without knowing what to really look for.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    You know, I do not wish to make the victims of these slimeballs feel any worse, by any means, but a lot of this information is readily available prior to purchase.

    My experience has been that most deceptions of this type are not very clever----there are a FEW that are very clever, but these are usually reserved for very big buck cars.

    My rule of thumb is that on a given car, a string of "dubious" things points to fraud, even if nothing can be absolutely proven.

    Case in point---a missing VIN tag that was "lost during restoration", a data plate in the wrong place....the use of modern fasteners to rivet a VIN plate....a "decked" engine with missing ID numbers. Also ZERO documentation is suspicious. Also lots of mis-matched date codes on various components. (NO, you cannot have an engine made in MAY 1966 put into a car made in January 1966).

    On some bogus GTO's, you can shine a flashlight down the opening of the rear windows and see where the body filler leaks out of the holes that held the "Tempest" script to the body.
  • blh7068blh7068 Posts: 376
    "Conclusion: Someone changed the grill etc. to the GTO look but the dang car is a Le Mans! This is the VIN 235176B139151 Do I need to research more? Can anyone confirm my conclusion?Looking again I found a 326 emblem in the trunk."

    As shifty said...the VIN says it all... 35 indicates it was born a Tempest Custom.
    The 42 would I.D. it as a goat.
  • kingzonkkingzonk Posts: 4
    I'm glad to see we got back on track, was getting concerned that the original topic got lost. Thx for your information. Fortunately I only paid $300 for the car so it doesn't hurt too bad financially. Thought I had my dream car only to find out NOT... I've been disabled now anyway and cannot restore it. I have no idea what this thing would go for on criags list. Can anyone give me some help on what is fair, being honest of course, not as a GTO even though it has many GTO parts. :cry:
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Sure. Give us a GOOD description of Paint, Body, Interior, Engine bay, Undercarriage, Chrome Trim.

    Use a rating scale like this:

    #1 -- show quality better than new
    #2 -- very sharp, local show, you have to look to find small defects
    #3 -- clean driver--a few little dings, paint still nice and shiny but some chips, chrome a bit dull, a few flaws in carpet and upholstery, runs well, undercarriage is old looking but no rust, no big dents anywhere, trunk is pretty clean, engine looks decent, not full of grease and oil and shredded hood insulation.

    #4 -- running complete car but from across the street, you can see problems.

    #5 -- beat up, not running, but not stripped of parts or bad bad rust.

    #6 -- obvious parts car

    The best topic is here:

    What's This Thing Worth?
  • kingzonkkingzonk Posts: 4
    Hmmmmm how to say this....
    #1 -- show quality better than new - Would look appropriate planted on a set of rusty old steel rimes like they do at the local Pick-n-Pull.
    #2 -- very sharp, local show, you have to look to find small defects - The entire body has not been cared for since what looks like 1966 (however, being in CA, it's mostly surface and repairable, no holes.
    #3 -- clean driver--a few little dings, paint still nice and shiny but some chips, chrome a bit dull, a few flaws in carpet and upholstery, runs well, undercarriage is old looking but no rust, no big dents anywhere, trunk is pretty clean, engine looks decent, not full of grease and oil and shredded hood insulation. - NO shine at all, there are a few chips along the edges of bondo from a few repairs; the heads and all accessories are removed but inside where the rear seat should be. The front seats are present and "ok" as well as the complete dash; all glass is present and not broken; carpet needs a good cleaning; all chrome suspension, drive train exhaust etc. are present.
    #4 -- running complete car but from across the street, you can see problems. - Looking under the hood one can see where the cylinders are but not the cylinder walls due to the rust; it's not likely to get any compression without the heads.

    #5 -- beat up, not running, but not stripped of parts or bad bad rust. Could fit into this category. The G-60's on the rear still hold air.

    #6 -- obvious parts car - although it appears all parts are accounted for I notice two generators not just one, maybe some mod they did back then.

    Ray
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Maybe ask $1250 and see what happens?
  • kingzonkkingzonk Posts: 4
    thank-you for your time and help
  • kregwkregw Posts: 1
    The company that I work for has a title to a piece of equipment and they don
    't know what it goes to. The description on the title is vague. Is there a site that I can enter the vin and find out what it goes to?
  • Take the title to DMV---they'll probably know at least the category of the equipment, that is, trailer or boat or whatever.
  • l just posted a topic for this, but it's somewhat related to this post, so if anyone could help...

    Please if anyone can help me. I'm trying to locate my wife's, late grandfather's 1979 450SL. The family sold the car several years ago after he passed, and she would be thrilled to get it back. I was hoping I could just do a carfax on the VIN# and find out some info, but apparently carfax (and everywhere else I found) will only take VIN#s for cars from 1981 and newer. Does anyone know of a way I can get some vehicle history info on this car? the VIN# is 10704412057228.

    thank you,

    -michael
  • neros9neros9 Posts: 1
    Guys, I need help!

    I have a 1971 Bmw 2002 that was sold to me and the VIN is nowhere to be found on the body, but the previous owner somehow registered it. How can I remedy this problem. I have numbers on the registration, but Motor vehicles won't register it without a "pencil rub copy" ; they won't just go off the number on the registration.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Here's what they look like:

    BMW 2002 VIN PLATE

    If my memory serves, this is located on the right side inner fender, just back of the shock tower.

    image

    If these plates have been stripped off, y'all got problems and maybe a stolen car.
  • zaysmomzaysmom Posts: 1
    Hello Sir or Madam,
    I'm trying to find a little pickup for myself to help with errands around the home. I found an ad on craigslist for a 1995 Nissan King Cab XE 133,850 miles, Automatic with asking price $2450. Body has dings, dents and scrapes. Paint is fading. Interior has wear & tear. Can someone PLEASE, PLEASE check the VIN# 1N6SD16S2SC460223 for me to see if this would be a good vehicle to purchase.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Keep looking.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    Sounds neglected AND over priced. I'd continue searching. Sounds like that baby has had a very hard life. Think of it as a piece of fruit you see in the store, all bruised and battered. Would it taste good? Perhaps but not likely.

    Look how pretty this one is for nearly the same $$$:

    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1732209680.html

    or here's one same price:

    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1733508519.html

    As you can see, you don't have to spring at the one you saw. There's better out there.
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