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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems

1999 Ranger XLT 3.0L Automatic 77,000 miles

It started tonight and at first cut off a couple of times then it started happening more frequent while driving. All of the lights and everything stay on. There has been no check engine light, etc.
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Comments

  • I'm not sure about the 99 ranger but i've been having the same problem with my 2005 Ranger edge 4.0L Automatic 33,000kms. i had it checked out at the dealership and the told me it was the inertia sensor, i guess when it is bumped or jolted it cuts off the fuel. now i figure it had to be a fuel pump problem but i guess i'll have to wait and see when i pick the truck up tomorrow.
  • we have a 2000 ranger 4x4. 4.0 engine, auto with o/d. when starting up a grade, truck will hestiate . have had trans and engine checked. locals say"good luck". any ideas?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter?
  • twice in the last six months
  • tinydog2tinydog2 Posts: 1
    have read thru posts, but can't make sense out of most of them, so here goes and thanks in advance for any help.
    3 litre V6 5speed manual. Have changed fuel pump because CTC mechanic said fuel pressure was too low, nothing changed. Then they said there was a possible NO SPARK situation or maybe even the computer was faulty.So figuring these guys were going to try leading me around by the nose, i pulled truck out of shop.
    At home i tried starting it myself by spraying Quick-start into intake. truck will run til i stop spraying. there is fuel at fuel rail (don't now name but looks like tire valve) .
    also did change coil pak just to be sure , also new battery.
    HAS ALWAYS TURNED OVER QUITE WELL BUT STILL WILL NOT RUN. EXCEPT WHILE SPRAYING QUICK-START INTO INTAKE.
    THANX AGAIN FOR HELP
    FOR THOSE WHO CARE CTC IS PROBABLY IN COMPARISON TO AUTOZONE BUT IS IN CANADA - NATION WIDE AND READY TO RIP YOU OFF!!
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    The fact that it runs as long as you spray the Quick-Start shows the engine is not getting fuel. Either the computer is not firing the injectors or something is keeping the pressure in the rail way too low. I would go back to the low or no fuel pressure as the first thing to check.
  • jfchainjfchain Posts: 1
    Engine misses when accellerating at 70 mph + above , becoming more frequent, fuel filter maybe?
  • cybrjgrcybrjgr Posts: 1
    1985 Ranger V6, 2brl carb, manual trans. has a chronic problem of stalling during slow down at turns and intersections. It will start right back up. It runs great except for the stalling and it burns a little oil. I recall my dad having similar problems years ago but he has passed away so I can't go to him for help like I use to. The truck has new belts, plugs, rotor, cap, plug/IGN wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil, oil filter, thermostat, radiator, fan, the engine is timed, the cooling system is flushed, I cleaned the carb out with carb cleaner and I ran ChemTool fuel additive through a full tank of high octane fuel.
    Any ideas will be helpful because I am at the end of my knowledge. Thank you.
  • edhughesedhughes Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Ranger. I brought it new in Feb of 2005. Three times it has stalled on me. The first time it was after I had parked it nose down on a hill, it started, but died soon after. Then an hour later it started up and no problems...at least not until a week later. At that time it did it after coming out of a parking garage. This time it was towed to the ford dealership (where by the way it started just fine the next day) and after looking through everything and testing all aspects. They shrugged their shoulders and replaced the fuel line. This was 7000 miles ago (just before my 30k checkup). This Sunday it stalled again. After sitting on a hill, nose down, and about four miles from where I started it. While waiting at an intersection. Once again it was towed, started the next day and the repair shop (not a ford dealership) couldn't find the problem. So I drove it home. It is now three days later and no problems? I was told it might be the inertia sensor. But I didn't hit any bumps. And while it was sitting I had used the AC. My repair man and I are puzzled! I don't want it stalling in a dangerous area. Somebody please help me figure this one out. :sick:
  • calliamcalliam Posts: 3
    My 1998 Ford Ranger is in the shop again! It stalls and now it won't start. We have had work done on it by the Ford Dealer, couldn'f fix it, the local mechanic has it and he seems to think the gas is too rich (?). Wants to replace the distributor.

    Does anyone know anything about this? Sound familiar?
  • stick0413stick0413 Posts: 2
    With the original problem in this thread it turned out to be the ECM. Have since traded the Ranger in for a Toyota Tundra (08 with the 5.7) and am very happy with it with no problems at all.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A 98 has a distributor?
  • calliamcalliam Posts: 3
    Apparently some models of the 1998 series do have distributors. When the Ford Dealers (2) were through with working on it they couldn't tell us what the problem was, maybe it was this, maybe it was that, but after over $2,400 worth of work we gave up on Ford. Took it to a little local mechanic who thought he could fix it, but no luck. Now it is with another mechanic who is talking about $800 to replace the distributor, but again no guarnatees. I am ready to chuck the darn thing or just put it on the property and grow flowers in the bed of the truck!!!!!!!
  • mgr1mgr1 Posts: 1
    Having read the above, here's my 2 cents worth.... mabey someone can make something out of it: I have a 1989 Ranger with 2.3L fuel injected engine (5s manual) and this problem has cropped up only in the past year. It starts fine and runs fine but occassionally either when cruising for a few miles at 35 mph or after slowing down for a turn and giving it the gas again, the engine will hiccup or cutout (stall) for anywhere from a second or two to nearly a minute before I can start it again. No "check engine" light. I've had the truck checked and the EGR valve assembly was replaced as well as the throttle body overhauled.

    I'll be taking it back into the shop shortly but after reading the manual and the above threads I'm thinking that the problem is definitely fuel related. Mabey the inertia switch but I'm more inclined to believe the fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator or one of the two fuel pumps (there are two: a high pressure and a low pressure pump). Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to check this stuff....... I'll keep you guys posted. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • calliamcalliam Posts: 3
    Don't know about the 89's however on our 98 we have had the fuel system completely overhauled, new filter, new pump etc. Still stalls and will start when it feels good and ready. Sometimes right away sometimes a week or so later.

    I'm giving up, donating it to a charitable org. and taking it off on my taxes for this year.

    Better luck with yours.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The fuel pump relay? These can go bad, or their connectors get corrision and make bad connection. These are usually in the fuse box under the hood, or on the side of it. Be worthwhile to buy a new one for a few dollars and pull the old one when it is stalled and put the new on in and see if it starts.
  • pistolnoonpistolnoon Posts: 1
    Was driving my 93/94 Ford Ranger P/U Standard Transmission today and it died suddenlly on the highway, the highway was very noisy and could not troubleshoot, so I added gas and tried to start it but it would not run, the starter runs OK, then added fuel to the intake manifold to see if it world start with help but would not. The fuel pump kicks in ok and you can hear it running so I checked for spark and their is not spark. Got abit of a shock to my hand from the spark plug wire after trying to check the sparkplugs but they will not spark.

    Had it towed home to work on it myself because I cannot afford to fix it in a garage. So I took my electronic tester and checked the fuse panel and all the fuses are ok, checked the diode in the fuse panel and it is OK,then went on to the EEC relay and it is Ok, and even replaced it with new one, and checked the fuel injection relay and it is Ok.

    So that must make the crankshaft positon sensor?And the coil pack?Is their an ignition control module?Where would it be located?
    Any help appreciated.

    THankyou
  • bruce75bruce75 Posts: 1
    My 3.0 Engine runs fine when the weather is day, but on rainy days it runs really rough. Maybe someone can help me. I just purchase the truck recently from an out of town party, so am unaware of the recent maintenance.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I would try new wires and plugs first.
  • anginohioanginohio Posts: 2
    Just thought I would put this here for anyone who might find it useful. I have a 2006 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder w/25500 miles, the other day I was driving down the highway and it just shut off, no warning lights just died and would not restart. It would turn over and die instantly. I recalled a few months ago while a friend was driving it, it also stalled and restarted after about 5 mins while sitting at a light. I thought nothing of it really because it had not happened to me. Long story short, $550.00 dollars later, minus the$100.00 tow it was the mass air flow sensor. Of course my warranty expired the month before and I was also told it was caused by a cheap air filter being used at a oil change place, replaced at 18,000 miles. I have the filter and it looks fine to me, but I am not car expert of any means. So maybe my pain in my wallet might help someone else save a few hundred bucks. It looks like it would have been easy enough for me to change but I had no idea where to start. :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Thats a new one, never heard that before. I've heard that people that use the after market oilable filters may kill the MAS because oil from the filter will coat it. But never heard of a filter so bad that it killed one.

    Better possibility is that messing with the filter left a connection open between the air filter and the MAS, letting air and dust in.

    And, I did not know a bad MAS would suddenly totally kill a motor. I can see making it run badly, and giving bad milage, but kill a motor? Maybe a bad MAS where the little wire/s inside totally broke would shut a car down. This would be a defective MAS, not a filter problem coating the wire with dust.

    The symptoms you describe sound more like a Crank Position Sensor failure. These will kill a car instantly. And if it is an intermident failure, the car will restart, until the failure becomes complete.

    Overall, sounds like it could be a BS from a service writer. Look at your receipt, see if they charged for a MAS or Crank Sensor. I do hope that whatever they did keeps you up and running.
  • anginohioanginohio Posts: 2
    they replaced the MAS and I have the old one that was taken out and they replaced the air filter which I also have. The air filter does not look like its in bad shape either. I took it to the dealer where I bought the car and that is what was done. So far so good.
  • rfelixrfelix Posts: 1
    I've had my Ranger for over two years now, and have not had a lick of trouble. Recently, the Ranger started running like chitty-chitty-bang-bang, I suspected water in the fuel and added dry gas with no luck.
    The Ranger acts like it isn't getting fuel and I have to keep the engine revved up to keep it from stalling. Once I get it rolling, it still bucks and jumps occasionally. I'm living on a very tight fixed income so I can't just drive it to a garage and have it diagnosed with the computer error codes.
    Is changing the fuel filter or 02 sensor worth a try, or should I wait until I can have a computer put on it?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If the Check Engine Light isn't on, 'putting it on a computer' may not tell you anything. If it has set a 'soft' code that has reset itself, it might be helpful if the code is still in history. But if a sensor is seeing a critical problem, it will have the Check Engine light turned on.

    A fuel filter replacement might help.

    At 7 years old, you might also need new plug wires and/or plugs.

    At about this age, on my 94 I started to hear ignition noise over the radio, even the FM radio. It only had about 50,000 miles, but it was about 7 or so years old. The truck still ran fine, but when you hear ignition noise on the radio, you have to know the wires are breaking down. A new set of wires and plugs stopped the noise.
  • ditto on the plugs and wires. i have an 01 that had them replaced when I bought the truck used at 24,000. It now has 98,000 and started missing occasionally after rough idling for about a year. decided to check a plug and see how it looked and the wire fell apart as I removed it and the plug was completely shot. I checked the gap (supposed to ..052-.056 or something) and it was almost at .145 and looked terrible. I blame the crap gas we have around here.

    after a new set of plugs and wires she runs great again and gas mileage jumped from 15 mpg up to 19 mpg overnight.
  • just replaced fuel pump and filter... now, above 35 miles per hour or on incline truck losses power but does not stall. any suggestions ?
  • haulthault Posts: 124
    ford had a class action lawsuit in california. there is an electronic part near the distributor on many ford vehicles from at least the 1980's through around 2000. when it gets overheated the circuit shorts and causes the engine to die. After it cools down the circuit is complete and vehicle runs again. The part is inexpensive.
  • I have a 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 4 cylinder stander w/325,000 miles truck loose power when the outside temperature reach 100 degrees, then it start to stalled. I have done a tune-up and replace fuelpump and fuel filter,Air filer and Air mass censer. the problem corrects itself in the morning when is cool then it runs normal.

    only when is hot outside is when truck stalled and rough idle
    any suggestions.. :cry:
    thanks
    felix
  • you may have carbon build up I have sea form motor treatment and it help. hope this helps

    felix
  • driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out but it does not have any problem of starting up and keeping on going tried replacing the coil pack and that didnt do it, i need help have afeeling im gonna spend more money than is needed...
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