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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems

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Comments

  • I'm glad it passed CA SMOG!!!!

    I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds after I start the truck. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
    Hopefully, the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
    Thankfully, it kept running yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again.

    That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?

    For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.

    IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >

    FORD DEALER - $103.04,
    THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
    & AUTOZONE - $60.00

    So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass)
  • Ok. Since the smog passed, it’s doubtful the timing was bad or incorrect. My problem with the rough idling is still with me.

    I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.

    When I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better, and when I run it on the freeway, it runs like nobody's "bidniz".

    I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?

    1986 Ranger / 140 CID/ 2.3 EFI gas/ 4 Cyl. 5-speed / 151,473 Miles
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps.
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    If this works you will have saved alot of $ & trouble. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • mustang6518mustang6518 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i have a 93 ford ranger 2.3 with a 5 speed manaul trany it doen't seem to have any power i know it's a little 4 cylinder but still it should pull hills more better the check engine lights was coming on and staying on after a few miles i hooked it up to a computer and could not find any stored codes all i found was that the 02 senors said it was runnig rich after that the check engine light started going off and on and then stoped coming on completly but no change in performance the check engine light has recently started coming back on i have also noticed that it sounds like the feul pump goes off and on wile it is parked and swiched off any idears
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    (www.carcomplaints.com)
  • i had the same problem out of my 94 ranger. i replaced the fuel filter, and the fuel pump, and know it works great, runs like a top.
  • i own an 05 ranger edge 5 speed 165,000+ highway miles since new,had it cutout on inerstate at speed,reset fuel inertia, started up,on my way, randomly would do it again at idle usually, no sensors,relays,fuelpump or switches have been changed. i keep regular maintinance, oil, plugs, fuel filter.recently changed plug wires,cleaned iac with tooth brush&carb cleaner, i use a k&n air filter and DO NOT OVER OIL IT,after about 5-10 min of idling it get rough and start missing causing the enginelight to blink, if i would tap the throttle it would clean up and light would go out,seems new plugs&wires corrected that,however the stalling& cuttingout is getting worse,twice last week,and twice yesterday once was at a stoplight& secound just idling after a few mins,would not fire off till i reset inertia switch,sometimes it will be alittle hard to start takes an extra secound when temps are below 40. please help income is low and my payoff is in aug this yr. i luv the truck and want to keep it for a longtime.i owned an 85 for 12yrs put well over 300,000 on it with slight coil issues in hot fl weather but ran ford tough.

    thanks for any help , rcmax
  • I have a ranger with the 2.3L 8 plug, I have seen that many people with the same engine is having a stalling problem and so am I. I have change all the sensors except the pcm or the computer.
    It runs great on the fwy or once you get going. its when you take off it wants to stall and you have to give it gas so that it wont turn off, at the same time when this happens i can see a small amount of black smoke and i give it gas so that it wont turn off, any hints or any successful repair that will take care of this problem
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    Been having some problems with rough idle and stalling while sitting still. Hasn't been running clean and smooth for quite a while and I couldn't find a problem.
    A couple weeks ago just by chance I checked The "Mass Air Flow Sensor". That was it !! Problem solved now it's running like new again.

    The mass Air Flow Sensor is located at the out end of your air filter cover. The thing is held in by two torques screws. Simply remove the two screws and remove it. It's a silver and black plastic box with a plug on the end of it. It's function is to sense the amount of air passing through it and send the information to the "Brain Box" which programs the fuel injection system with the right amount of air. Because it is on the clean air side of the air filter it can collect fibers from the filter itself, it also collects dust particles and pollen. When it is plugged up the brain box sends the wrong information to the fuel injectors resulting in a poor running truck. Here is a couple of hints to help you. Don't try to unplug the wire till you remove the unit. PUSH down on the plug release (don't pull) to remove the wires plugged into it. Here's the big one.....Use the right cleaner, buy a can of Mass Air Flow Injector cleaner and read the instructions on the can. It costs about $8 a can at O Reileys or Auto Zone. Let the sensor dry compleatly before you re-install it. After the first start the truck might throw a code (engine lite) If it does, no problem. Remove the negative wire from the battery, wait about 15 minuets then hook it back up. Re-set your clock start the truck and you're finished. Mass Air Flow Sensors should be cleaned everytime you change your air filter. It takes about 10 minuets total time and it's worth the effort. On the can of cleaner they claim 4-10 more horsepower at the wheels with a clean MAFsensor compared to a dirty one. Expect a smoother cleaner running engine also. 4-10 more horses also translates into fuel savings. This is a little job worth doing on any fuel injected vehicle not just the Rangers.

    PS: My Ranger is a 2004 Edge with the small V-6. Yours may be slightly different. The MAF Sensor will be the first sensor in line on the out flow of your air breather box.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    I should share a couple more things about the Mass Air Flow Sensor. First, On the metal side, the silver side, there are four small holes in the metal at different locations. Make sure you blow the cleaner thru the holes to make sure they are clean. Inspect the sensor an make sure you have cleaned all the inside vents and holes, there are inlets in front and both sides. Clean the inside of the plug also. Don't forget to clean the plug under the hood that plugs into the sensor. Put a rag under it while you spray to catch the overflow. That stuff will ignite on a hot engine.

    Lastly check your exhaust pipe. Mine had a lot of soot built up on the tip of the pipe both inside and out, an obvious indication of an engine that is running rich ( to much ) fuel and and air mixture. Clean it up with a old rag and watch it for awhile The inside of the pipe should not be full of black built up soot, It should be kind of clean with a grey color inside.
  • hrehahreha Posts: 1
    try starting it and wiggeling the harness next to the under hood fuse block mine had rubbed against the bracket for the fuse block and had cut the power wire for the relay in to. it fixed my prob and no more swapping relays.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    See my post re: mass air flow sensor. Sounds like what mine was doing. It never quit but It was running really rich making it run poor and die at stoplights and idled poor all the time. Eazy to fix, actually just clean it. Easy Easy Easy.
  • I have a 87 ranger with v6 fuel injection .It runs grear for awhile then seems to overfuel on at least 2 clys.or miss really bad If i keep pushing the gas it will keep running but if not it may quit. It will start right back up but do the same thing again ,I have changed what i thought may be the ptoblem so need some more advice from you all Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad (leaking) injectors?
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